white melamine iron on edging

[woodie2]

Hello All.
I am replacing some white melamine edging on a walk in robe. My question is. I have bought some iron on edging and I am considering putting a little PVA along the edging.:no:
For those who have used iron on edging before. would you also put some PVA on it as well? Or, is the iron on good enough to stay on the edge for a long time?:?

Mike

[dlim2986]

You don't need PVA.

You probably don't even need to buy new edging. You could probably use the existing edging and just use an iron to reactivate the glue.

So long as you prepare the surface well and apply it correctly then it should stick pretty well.

What I do is have another push stick to apply pressure while the edging is still hot and wait for it to cool down and stick onto the surface before removing the push stick. The edging gets pretty hot so you can't just use your hands to apply pressure.

[woodie2]

Thanks Dlim2986.
The old edging was stuffed and some of it was missing. I have removed the old and was just about to attach the new stuff. Thanks for the advice :U

[SAISAY]

The hot melt glue on the melamine edging is entirely different to PVA.
I gather the old one is damaged?
After attaching the edging, use a kitchen rolling pin to apply pressure while the edging is still hot. The rolling pin has 2 handles and is easy to apply pressure with.
Otherwise get a painter's roller. It is a small hard rubber roller not unlike a tiny pain roller in shape. We used it to apply pressure to wall paper edges.
When edging has cooled down, run a medium file across the edges to get them square.
Wolffie

[eddie the eagle]

Hi Mike,

No need for PVA, as others have said.

Hot iron
piece or two of plain white paper
Scrap of wood
File or laminate trimmer

Snap off a bit of edging at least 2" longer than the job

Put the job in a vice, hold the paper on the edging and iron through the paper to melt the edging. (scorch marks and black glue marks are on the paper then, not the job.)

While still hot, rub down with the small scrap block of wood, applying a fair bit of downward pressure to force the hot melt glue into the nooks and crannies/expel air pockets.

When cooled, either use a smooth file or the laminate trimmer to clean up the overhang.

Cheers,

eddie

[les88]

I apply the pressure with a flat timber block, when you get to an end ... the block is not as likely to snap the edging as a round one.
les

[elraco.com.au]

Good explanation by Eddie the Eagle

A cork sanding block is another way to apply some pressure to the edging after the adhesive has been activated and a bit more forgiving that a block of wood

[woodie2]

Thank you for all your suggestions.
Will be finishing the project in a minute. Thanks again everyone for your help.:)

Mike

[SAISAY]

Hi Mike,

No need for PVA, as others have said.

Hot iron
piece or two of plain white paper
Scrap of wood
File or laminate trimmer

Snap off a bit of edging at least 2" longer than the job

Giggle of the day

Put the job in a vice, hold the paper on the edging and iron through the paper to melt the edging. (scorch marks and black glue marks are on the paper then, not the job.)

Cheers,

eddie

A WALK IN ROBE IN A VICE :woot:
He could sell tickets to watch that ot he would need a mighty big vice.
Wolffie

[bill_h]

My dear wife bought one of those teflon click on thingys for her iron from a home expo. Works great with iron on edging, no burn marks....my shirts are stuffed though!

[eddie the eagle]

I'm used to working on the things in pieces, Wolffie and'll admit I didn't read that bit closely.

That'll serve me right.


Cheers,

eddie

[SAISAY]

I'm used to working on the things in pieces, Wolffie and'll admit I didn't read that bit closely.

That'll serve me right.


Cheers,

eddie
I admit it, I am warped :D
Wolffie