what glue should I use

[Superbunny]

I know this might not be the right forum but I thought someone here might know. I'm making a rocking chair out of hardwood and I'm after an epoxy glue that will leave little if no staining on the timber finish. I intend to give it an oil finish.

[Studley 2436]

PVA glues wipe off and are stronger than the wood as long as the joint is good.

The big strength of epoxy is it has gap filling abilities. PVA does not. Some use Aquadhere myself I like titebond yellow glue.

Studley

[watson]

Is the glue to be used for a lamination....or just sticking the joints together?

[kman-oz]

I've just done quite a bit of research on this subject and you'll be delighted to know that a good cross-linked PVA is the best choice for any well fitted joint. Tite Bond III is strong, water resistant, creep resistant and cleans up with water before curing.

The next best thing is generally Epoxy, but good old yellow glue (Aliphatic resin - or Polyvinyl Acetate with Aliphatic additives) is a close third with similar strength and a lot less mucking about.

My personal choice is Tite Bond Original (yellow glue) for the vast majority of general construction and Tite Bond III for the critical stuff.

Interestingly, it appears that the gap filling properties of good quality PVA based glues is almost as good as Epoxy in a lot of cases. The case for Epoxy is where the gap is relatively large (1mm or greater), but you have to be careful about how you mix fillers for this sort of gap too.

[AlexS]

I'm with Studley & Kman-oz. Unless you're laminating, and if you have well fitted joints, any good PVA, aliphatic (yellow glue) or PU (eg Titebond III) will do the job. If you have large gaps in the joints, Techniglue epoxy is probably the easiest to use because it's thicker - otherwise you have to add filler yourself. It can also be tinted with most pigments including water based artists paint.
Dry fit the joints first, and smear a thin layer of wax around them. This will prevent any squeeze out sticking to the wood. You can remove the squeeze-out after about 4 hours, and remove the wax with a toothbrush & white spirits.

[Superbunny]

Thanks for your advice guys I had been reading up on glues but was under the belief that PVA would not be sufficently strong for a rocking chair given its stresses in the nature of its use. I expect to make only good joins with little or no gaps. If it has a gap then do it again is my policy.

superbunny:D:2tsup:

[jerryc]

I agree with the advice above that aliphatic cross linked pva would be the go.

Just a observation on the matter of gaps in joints. There are some sad occasions when a little fudging is necessary however well intentioned one is. I use veneer in my work and have found a loose joint can be closed by building up with veneer on one face before gluing. Veneer has a consistent thickness and allows the face of the joint to be refaced accurately. It can save a valuable piece of wood from being wasted, produces a strong joint and is better than gap filling with some goo.

Jerry

War does not decide who is right. War only decides who is left

[Rookie]

...... but was under the belief that PVA would not be sufficently strong for a rocking chair given its stresses in the nature of its use.

I thought that the nature of a rocking chair design was that the stresses are still in line with the direction the joints are made, and are largely where the legs meet the rockers and where they meet the seat/back. In other words, the stresses on mortise and tenons is still largely directly into the mortise and don't change as the chair is rocked back and forward.

[Superbunny]

I thought that the nature of a rocking chair design was that the stresses are still in line with the direction the joints are made, and are largely where the legs meet the rockers and where they meet the seat/back. In other words, the stresses on mortise and tenons is still largely directly into the mortise and don't change as the chair is rocked back and forward.

Yes I agree, I must be the Rooki.

thanks:D