Vibration

[gold leader]

A couple of years ago I purchased a Hafco BP 14A Bandsaw. The problem I'm having with it is vibration from the motor mount. If I remove the drive belts, no vibration at all when the motor has no load on it. Put the belts back on, the vibration returns. Not much help from H & F. Tried various belt tensions. Can anyone help PLEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAASE!!!!
The vibration isnt too bad, but none would be better. Or do they all vibrate?

[Dean]

Try some link belts. These help reduce vibration if the current belt (likely a V belt) is causing the problem.
Not sure where to get them in Oz, but you can get them from a couple places in the U.S. It is sold by the foot.
Here's one - http://tinyurl.com/2ezcq

[gatiep]

Check the motor and the saw pylly for run out. If you remove the belt, there wont be any viubration if either of the pulleys are a fraction off centre. Putting a belt on will bring the vibration on
Cya

[DarrylF]

FOr a few bucks each, it might be worth replacing the belt with a decent quality one - go to a specialist bearing place etc. Old/cheap belts can get stiff, develop a memory, which increases vibration.

According to those who know, link belts are the go really. Blackwoods sell it in Oz - and there was a guy a few days ago in the Buy & Sell forum looking to sell some.

[Woodchuck]

Howdy,

The SO just bought a cheap 14" bandsaw for me the other day. I found mine to have a great deal of vibration at first, but after tuning it & making some adjustments to the stand/frame have got it down to only a slight vibration but can't get rid of it totally.

I also am going to try better belts, but also thought the pully on the motor & the speed selection pully on the bottom wheel could be better. Maybe a machined pully instead of the cast ones would help some or are cast ones just as good really ?

Was also told that a bad blade (weld) or a stretched out of round blade can cause vibration as well. Am told out of round blade can be found out by using a co-planer meathod of tracking. if the blade is out of round & the wheels are co-planer the belt won't track well or even may come off. If it's a bad weld am told this is dead easy to notice as you listen for a ticking sound near the guides.

Hope you sought it out without to much frustration Gold, Try buying or borrowing a book on bandsaws, the folks here suggested a great book to me on bandsaws which I borrowed & it truely was a great book & a huge help. Made tuning the saw a easy task :) sadly I forget the name of the book , think it was by Mark Duginksie or something of that likeness

Best of luck with it, Cheers

Woodchuck

[peter]

I had vibration problems with my bandsaw. If I removed the v-belt the vibration stopped. Have you run the bandsaw with the blade removed. This will tell you if the lower wheel, motor, pulleys and belt are OK. I did this with my bandsaw and found the vibration stopped but as soon as I put the blade back on the vibration came back. I took the upper wheel back to Carba-Tec where they were very helpful and replaced it. Put the bandsaw back together and no more vibration. Just remember, there are five main areas that can cause vibration on a bandsaw, motor, pulleys, belt and wheels. Send the time to check them all carefully. Hope you find this helpful.

Peter.

[gold leader]

Thanks heaps guys, a lot of good ideas there, and they all sound reasonable. Will track down some replacement belts, but not much time available for the ww right now, too much work lol. And those buses dont drive themselves.....
Thanks again, I'll keep you all posted

[DavidW]

Gold Leader,

How did you go with the vibration? I just assembled my BS1400 and have a low frequency pulsing vibration which is bad enough to make the machine unpleasant to use.

I haven't started to hunt the problem yet, I thought I'd see how you fared first.

[Robert WA]

I have a similar bandsaw.

A pulsing vibration may be caused by the blade being slightly thickened at the point of the weld. Check for that by running the saw and moving something gently up against the side of the blade, but to the rear of the teeth. If the weld is bulging you will feel the pulse.

To correct that problem, try sliding the edge of a sharpening stone up to the side of the running blade so that it makes contact with the bulge and, hopefully reduces it.

The pulse is caused by the bulge passing over the tyres.

[DavidW]

Thanks Rob I'll give it a try.