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View Full Version : Okay now for a review of all points north to Broome inland and coastal



Wild Dingo
29th April 2008, 10:33 PM
Rightio I was thinking of doing a wee review of my recent mad travels to Broome and return over the last month.

First trip was north on the inland road so we will begin there

Leaving Perth first port of call is the fuel stop for the start of the journey heading up the Great Northern Hwy aim for Bullsbrook, just before the township is the Gull servo, this is one of the busiest yet friendliest servos along the route. also the last "cheep" fuel till you get back so... TOP UP HERE!!!... dont take the take away pre prepared food like sangas toasted or not they are either dried out or soggy wet... best bet all round is to take your own tucker roadhouse food sucks seriously throughout the north of West Aussie and will cost an arm a leg and either one or both knuts or boobs depending on gender.

So having topped up the fuel head north duck low as you go along the straight out of Bullsbrook as your at the end of the jet runway of Pearce Airforce Base and low flying jets can blow yer of the road and deaden your earholes for an hour or more... and... THEY DONT CARE!! so duck

Head up the hwy and past the Brand Hwy turn off aim straight for New Norcia... a wonderfull OLD town designed and build way back by the Benidicine Monks and they still make a wonderful drop of the good oil and some fine Olive oil too boot... take the time to stop and take the tour of the monestry its worth it. wonderful old building full of beautiful things and the monks are wonderful people full of quiet serenity and gentle happiness with the world... well worth it.

Head further north to Mt Magnet fuel up at the BP as you enter town this is the best stop in Magnet... I hope you remembered to pack the tucker and beer cause in Magnet its gonna hurt your wallet to have to buy either. Personally I dont like Magnet much but thats a personal thing others I know have enjoyed there time there.

So onward to Meekatharra. Now Meeka and I have a long termed relationship going way back to when I was a nipper in the early 60s Meeka was the place of my first drunk my first love my first true bar brawl and the first banning from a pub... yes Meeka and I go way back... fuel should be gotten at the first petrol station on the right as you enter town make sure you lock the car if theirs young fellas around cause believe you me they will try to get in and take something! I "lost" a pack of cigs lighter and $10 from the dash and 6 cds from the console in a matter of seconds watched them disappear down the track and nothing I could do about it... so lock up... again dont get the tucker its old tuff and revolting. Fuel price a month back was $1.70 a litre

Onwards!!... Next stop was meant to be Newman but by gawd a fella gets knocked about a bit when doing serious miles so a shower stop was screamed for and found at the Kumarina Roadhouse south of Newman... this is a must stop at place. very friendly happy staff very GOOD pub and the tucker was worth every cent. the only issues I found were a) the cold showers no hot water although the will tell you there is hot water I didnt find any and I tried all 10 showers!!! b) the little green frogs that invaded the room around 2am.
Otherwise a great spot to rest up.

Onto Newman... this is a major mining town in the north. You can do tours of some of the mines stay in the quaters or do as I did fuel up and buggar off as quick as possible... being a miner places like Newman call me to work and I was on holidays damnit!!... so a fuelup at the only open servo at 5am in town the staff was freindly with a distinct Kiwi accent and laughter which was a welcoming sound to the travel weary... be aware though that the coffee machine apparently "chucks the shytes and packs it in" every couple of days... fuel cost was $1.75 per litre

So now was my biggest hurdle of the first trip I wanted to do the Newman Marble Bar route but due to rain wasnt game to go the dirt track so headed up the bitchumine to Port Headland

Port Headland what a bloody confusing friggin town Port Headland is!!! Its separated into several sections... first entering from the south one enters Wedgefield the industrial area with the turn off to South Headland and a long haul to Port Headland... South Headland is the main shopping living area of Headland although there are houses and shops in Port Headland the main shopping precinct is in South Headland.

One place to see in Port Headland is on the way in turn right at the sign to Pretty Pool... this is a real sparkler of a place to visit the water has phosphorant in it and as you swim with each stroke you will leave a trail of sparkles behind you... pretty stunning especially at night.

Okay if you want barbies or accessories forget the urge to go to Target or Woolies whichever one is in the main shopping centre and go around to "Squizzies" which is on a back street but relatively easily found or directions given if you ask... squizzies has EVERYTHING you need at Perth prices the staff are knowledgable and friendly.

Okay servo... the one on the way out of SOUTH Headland before you make the right turn to head up to head to Broome is the one I use... friendly as all heck the food turns over very quick so is pretty fresh all the time... price of fuel was $1.70 per litre (last week)

Headland itself was a confusion and disappointment in that the people werent very friendly or sociable nor helpfull... in fact I found those I dealt with there rude for the most part and tolerable for the least only the girls at the tourist centre were able to be considered polite or helpfull and that only after I bought a ruddy token tourist prize!! :~

Anyways ONWARDS!!!

Next stop... Sandfire... hot as hell this place is an oasis in the miles of nothing between Port Headland and Broome... its also the ONLY place left between Perth and Broome where you can enjoy a shower for free... everywhere else will charge you between $2 and $6 per head for a shower :~

Sandfire as I remembered it from my madcapped youth was a pub more than a roadhouse unfortunatly due apparently to an electrical fault of some sort the pub burnt down a few years back... the endearing feature of the Sandfire pub was the decorations on the ceiling!! undies stuck from the ceiling... and yep I can state that I contributed to that mess of nickers and undies! :2tsup:

But its gone now and in its place is a simple sea container wherein one of the friendliest ladys will ply you with fresh food and a cup for the bottomless cup of coffee in the shade behind she will yarn to you if you wish or give directions and offer helpful advice... I have no idea of the price of fuel here as I didnt need it... but the ambience and friendliness is second to none... the local peacock tribe like to race over at the mere mention of food and will follow you around if you let them while the small butcher type birds will come and sit on your open door

Okay... next post Broome

Wild Dingo
29th April 2008, 11:06 PM
Okay Broome has changed somewhat since I was there back in the 70s

So its a tad bigger theres a lot of construction happening theres a lot more touristy things to do... at a cost of course... in Broome almost everything has a cost associated with it.

Right for a slap up meal... during the day Id recommend either "The Roey" in chinatown opposite the luggar museum (which is also worth the entrance fee) or down the Shady Lane to the cafe in the middle... although a tad dear for the tucker the quantity and quality of the food makes the price seem alright... example 4 meals 4 drinks cost $65... seems a tad over the top right? wrong not one of us could eat everything on our plates!... sister had the mega sanga sourdough salad and meat with chips... this was one huge sucker of a sanga I can tell you!!... son had chips a massive bowl that even this little chip lover struggled to finish... daughter had the souvlaki salad and chips (second visit she had the lasange salad and chips) only one word to describe this meal... massive!!... I had the Barra salad and chips... the barra was grilled to perfection melted in the mouth while the salad was full of cherry tomatoes cucumber onion and lettuce... a feast indeed. the drinks were of a mixed nature I had my usual Iced coffee aahhh the fresh whipped cream was delish... sis had something called a toxic meltdown which was some sort of concoction of juices including ginger and garlic!!... not bad... daughter had something called sexonastick... damned if I know what was in it but it was tasty as all heck mango banana strawberrys and something else pineapple is my thoughts while the son had a mango smoothie which was the best smoothie Ive tasted in a long time... the staff are great the little gay fella the best for service the beautiful Irish girl the best looker and the fat ol fella who owned it and wandered around a delight to chat with

So what next? The shopping!!!... many MANY pearl shops in china town to choose from ranging from reasonably cheep to bloody scary... avoid Linleys if you dont have a bottomless wallet the Shell house is the best in my view... well laid out good prices good product and beautiful friendly staff... for the most part not to bad... unfortunatly the clothing shops leave much to be desired as they all offer exactly the same items for different prices... we found the small shop as you first enter Carnarvon St to be the best for sarongs and necklaces (also has an amazing array of bongs for those that way inclined!)

There is a market on on Sundays in the forgrounds of the old court house which is worth the effort to make the rounds off... many stalls offer the same same jewellery and sarongs for varying prices but amid these are the "Special" stalls the ones with something different to offer... well worth checking out is the woman who makes china frogs snakes and lizards and fixes them to bits of driftwood... beautiful work and worth the low prices she asks... also the woodworker who makes some really excellent peices also at what Id call low prices.

Okay what else?... Cable beach? forget it dont stay there unless you have just recieved an massive inheritance from some distant relly cause your bank accounts gonna hurt if you do... there is a cam over the restuarant on the hill overlooking the beach google Cable Beach Web Cam to find it only usefull during the day at night its black as... even sunsets not the best to view... we organized family to go on it at a particular time in the arvo with no problems we jumped yahooed made total galahs of ourselves were laughed at uproarously by the restuarant customers and family saw us NO WUKKERS!! :2tsup:

Okay... Ganthiane Point... great place to go for the sunset better than Cable Beach in my view which has become over rated... also the prehistoric footprints are there which are worth the effort to get to... like Cable Beach you can drive onto Ganthiane point beach turn off to the right at the "racetrack" sign and drive on down at low tide... four wheel drive not required.

Roebuck Bay and Town Beach for the sunrise is a must do... get there before 6am

Fishing anywhere is good to excellent... mudcrabs you gotta get down and dirty for... and crocs DO inhabit the mangroves so take care!!

Other things to do? The crab races are a definant at the Satay Hut on Sundays otherwise the Satay Hut is known to "GO OFF" on friday and Saturday nights with a beautiful singer or two and beer at $5 per stubbie ask for a holder!! Food is available but get in early or miss out Kree is the waitress Suella and Leanne the cooks... and the tuckers good and well priced

Malcolm Douglas's croc farm on the road into town not the Cable Beach one is a good waste of time and energy... and money! 30 per head... is okay for 1 but gets bloody expensive for 3 or more... but a reasonably good tour guide in Dave (note the missing finger? it was a croc that took it pulling the float to get the crocs attention one day he had hooked the rope around and through his fingers the croc took the float and ripped of his finger) theres crocs... the main pond has somewhere around 70 LARGE crocs while theres a mass of smaller ponds with single large crocs or single females or couples... some of these crocs have been trouble in Wyndham and other place and have been "retired" to the farm for the local communities safety... theres 2 MASSIVE horney bull roos plenty of birds to satisfy any birdlovers penchant and then theres the dingos... beautiful alpine and desert dingos a pair of young alpine pups... as I said a good way to waste a few hours and if your so inclined by some way over expensive croc skin wallets or what have you.

Okay so that was Broome... next post the return journey down the coast

Buzza
29th April 2008, 11:14 PM
Good onyah Shane, a well written and eloquent account of travelling W.A. :)

Why do they charge so much to scrub the plums though? :-

Wild Dingo
29th April 2008, 11:47 PM
So by now your totally fed up with the beautiful weather the lovely sunrises the delightful friendliness and ambiance of Broome and ready for the run down the coast right?.... come on stop the Bullshyte you dont want to leave do you? NO OF COURSE NOT!!!... but you must... so you drag your gear back into the car pack it all away and wave goodbye

So weve done Sandfire havent we?... okay so your first or second stop should be WALLAL station and the 80 mile beach... the turn off is around 30 clicks south of sandfire (maybe more maybe less Im buggared if I know!!) Keep your eyes peeled as you drive down for the sign on the left and turn right onto the dirt track... 24 clicks of good dirt road no four wheel drive needed unless its been raining... just keep your eyes peeled for roaming Brahmin bulls and such car wrecking delights

The station has a caravan park... no idea of the costs or conditions as we didnt stay there... I have spoken to a couple of people and they reckon its good clean and the people are friendly... but thats heresay so dont take my word for it.

Now the beach... park the car and walk over a small sandhill and your on it! 80 glorious miles of pure pristine beach and the warmest clearest water there is... one thing to keep in mind if your going to go swimming are the stingers nasty bastards small tiny for the most part and almost clear so hard to spot unless you wear those polaroid sunglasses and even then easily missed... best precaution you can take is to take a litre bottle of vinigar with you just in case... vinigar works to relieve the sting.

Okay the water clear beautiful warm as toast just like a spa... small waves... a great swimming beach with some body surf available... the beach fishing is fanbloodytastic! If you cant catch a feed on the 80 mile beach YOU AINT TRYING!!

Okay onwards... so weve done Port and South Headland... and youve fueled up tuckered up and now aim your bonnet to Karratha Point Samson and points south... dont DONT whatever you do DONT stop in Roebourne... there are reasons for this statement which I wont go into here but take my word for it and dont stop there... go on to Karratha!

So Karratha forget the travelstop servo south of the town and just head to Karratha for food and fuel if you need it this servo is a total waste of time... no showers no hot food no meals fuel last week was $1.78

Sooo... south... next stop roadhouses... first is Fortesque... or rather fartanspew... a name given to it by a large contingent of truckies so one to take heed of and avoid... do you want a coffee? sure you say do you like your coffee made with bore water? your kidding right? NOPE!!!... serious that is why its termed the fartanspew!!

Okay so next... Nanutarra... expensive inadequate food and incompetent cook rules the kitchen... covered in bugs crickets and flies... really theres little to commend the place they have even fenced of the river so staying down there over night is out... okay so next you say

Manilya roadhouse... actually before we get there I have to advize of two spots to stay overnight... first most northern spot is the De Gray River... either side is good... no bare ground plenty of soft grass and trees rubbish bins aplenty and the soft flowing river nearby... listen out for the barking owls at night... more southern overnight stay place is the Lynden River although no grass its comfortable with plenty of seating the river and toilet facilities.

Okay Manilya... If you get there before 6am and after 8pm FORGET IT... they close for the night... okay food is alright a bit light on for what you pay $18 for 1 peice of bacon and 2 hard "soft" poached eggs is a bit rich in my book while paying $3 for a shower turns my stomach... the service was slack and lethargic although friendly enough... I dont know the cost of fuel

Carnarvon... now fuel here I get at the BP on the right as you enter the road into town right on the corner... $1.68 per litre $4 a shower and the food is crap... okay so town... the facine is looking brilliant with a lot of work having been done over the last 12 years since we left and many new houses being built including a few double story "marina" type places the townscape has been dressed up a tad with sidewalk cafe's along the last stretch to the facine... however the rest of Carnarvon hasnt changed from its boring old self... Im told they still do tours of the "dish" out of town and its lit up like a blue bowl at night... Go out the South River Road to Monroes plantation for a cuppa and to buy mango chutney jams sauces and banana whatevers!! But definantly get a choc coated narna!! DEFINANTLY A MUST HAVE!!!

Okay over it..

Sooo southward we go

Overlander... seems to be the main stopping place for many travellers although my personal preference is to keep going south to Billabong... the staff were in my opinion rude and unhelpfull when we called in but I must admit there were a heck of a lot of people there at the time so perhaps they were frazzled by the time we arrived but none the less in my view in this particular industry rudeness equates to loss of custom... but anyways no showers available again the food looked like it had been offered up to the gods of bain marees 2 years ago so we left

Billabong roadhouse contrasted completely to the more popular Overlander... the bonus with Billabong is theres a flamin PUB man!!!... ooh the service was great both young ladies were polite friendly helpfull and happy there prices were fair I thought as I munched my way through one of the best steak burgers on the road at $9 not too bad... especially so since it was FRESH COOKED!!... damn I hate it when they sit the things in a bain maree... anyway the beer was cold the atmosphere pleasant the company alright and cheerfull... the cost of fuel was the same as Overlander at $1.70 per liter so why would anyone patronize the Overlander is beyond me.

Onwards southbound to Geraldton

Now I will admit something about Geraldton... first Ive not spent a lot of time in this place I dont like it... dont have a clue why I just dont like the place sorta weird really but each time Ive been there Ive felt a mad need to leave as soon as possible... anyway we stopped at the big Gull servo the last one south of town the staff are wonderfully friendly helpfull and polite at all times the food is good for roadhouse tucker although they werent able for some rule or other to make me a burger but none the less its about the best on the way through Geraldton... fuel cost $1.67 per liter last week

Onwards...Dongara... the only redeeming qualities of this seaside fishing town is a) the beach b) the boats c) the fish and chip shop in the middle of town... thats it otherwise we found it boring and drab... mind you others have told me they reckon its a great spot and each to their own in my book.

Moving right along... Ive always flown straight past Eneabba Badgingarra and Dandarigan to Cataby... so I stopped at the first servo you come to heading south on the first trip down and the second servo south on the second trip... the first servo is the biggest cleanest and has a pub and rooms its just been taken over by new owners but doesnt seem the slightest bit different than the last time I visited a few years back... although I didnt fuel up the cost was 1.65per litre... the second servo I considered better all round why? I work on the rule of thumb that the truckies rule the road and any roadhouse worth its salt will cater for the truckies first and make sure the truckies are WELL fed and looked after... so this servo is the truckies servo you KNOW the foods going to be bloody good healthy and fullfilling you KNOW theres coffee by the truck load included you KNOW theres showers for free... You KNOW this cause the truckies wont go to a roadhouse that doesnt provide it they dont have to!... it the roadhouse does provide it the truckers come back and pass the word... so although not tourist orientated the food was bloody excellent the showers wonderfull and the company a tad rough and ready but fantastic.

Soooo we end up back at Bullsbrook and the end of this review of the inland and coastal tracks to and from Broome

Cheers!

Wild Dingo
29th April 2008, 11:50 PM
One last thing

The above is based on RECENT trips by myself... the experiences I had at particular places were my experiences and could therefore be different to others... this review is therefore offered with the rider that you should if you head up that way experience your own journey without bias offered by my experiences written here... for on any given day along the routes staff could leave staff could start management could change ownership could change and changes in attitude and service along with quality quanity of food and other services could occur for various reasons

So experience your experiences on your own journey and I wish you the greatest joy as you go along. :2tsup:

Cheers
Shane

Cliff Rogers
30th April 2008, 12:00 AM
Classic Ding. :2tsup:

ss_11000
30th April 2008, 12:49 AM
great read dingo:2tsup:

les88
30th April 2008, 10:07 AM
Brought back memories of when I was traveling in that neck of the woods :2tsup::2tsup:
les

Pat
30th April 2008, 10:20 AM
One last thing

The above is based on RECENT trips by myself... the experiences I had at particular places were my experiences and could therefore be different to others... this review is therefore offered with the rider that you should if you head up that way experience your own journey without bias offered by my experiences written here... for on any given day along the routes staff could leave staff could start management could change ownership could change and changes in attitude and service along with quality quanity of food and other services could occur for various reasons

So experience your experiences on your own journey and I wish you the greatest joy as you go along. :2tsup:

Cheers
Shane

Ding, you a lawyer now?

Good read:cool:

jmk89
30th April 2008, 12:19 PM
Love it, Shane

Wild Dingo
30th April 2008, 03:57 PM
Ding, you a lawyer now?

Good read:cool:

Wouldnt mind it!! :2tsup: I KNOW they have great paychecks... I keep supporting the sods :doh:

Nah was just sayin that these are me own experiences and heck someone else could have a wow of a time at any of the shyte roadhouses at another time strewth I might even have a wow of a time when I go back there... but at that time on those trips that was my experience

All up though me on my own on the first trip had a bloody ball and us me an the nipperoos on the second trip a week and a half later had an absolute friggin rage of a time!! :2tsup: so the good experiences even the bad ones out so it really is ALL GOOD!! :;


ooooh by the way... I DO NOT advise anyone with even half a brain or an ounce of common sence to do what I did two trips by road to and from Broome within a month does not make a persons rear end feel any good at all... I am NOT talking about the damned cars rear end either!! The posterior or glutimus maximus may well have padding by after that damned distance it feels like theres nothing but bone an nerve endings down there... talk about PAIN!!! :C


OOOHH and another thing... watch yer ankles!! Mine swole up to double there normal size from all the sitting until I spotted it and started taking breaks every hour or so with no more than 200klicks between stops... stop completely for at LEAST half an hour!! Walk around stretch your whole body especially your feet ankles and knees talk about agony :C Even the passengers NEED to stop get out and walk around DO NOT FAIL TO DO THIS!!

There you go a review and a warning or two... cool eh :2tsup:

joe greiner
1st May 2008, 01:08 AM
Best geography lesson I've ever had. Ever.

Joe

wheelinround
1st May 2008, 10:10 AM
Shane top read :2tsup: reminds me of one of the old fellows who I drove coaches with who related many of his tours to me, heard of all these places many he would have agreed with you whole heartedly on treatment etc. Sadly never did it myself:-

Now there's a job for you a Coach Captain driving the west coast :D:; but not a family mans life.

Wild Dingo
1st May 2008, 12:38 PM
Gidday Wheelin... mate a tour guide would be ideal I guess one of about 5 types of jobs Im focusing on getting... local would be the only way say from here (Bunbury) to say Margret river thereabouts no further afield since I have Brie full time and being a 14 year old girl I HAVE to be here else who knows what mischief the monkey would get up to!! :o

Otherwise Im aiming for a position in a woodworking shop or timber yard or as a trainer or as a salesman in a 4x4 shop either that or something to do with boats or harbors... otherwise anything else will just be a job I intend to get something that I have a passion for rather than "just a job"

mmm maybe I will post a "work wanted" add upstairs? :doh:

Cheers mate! :2tsup:

wheelinround
1st May 2008, 12:43 PM
Shane check out the employment section job in Perth might suit you