Sheoke green turning??

[Jarrahrules]

Hi I have aquired a sheoke it is chopped up and sealed.:D:D:D

Anyone ever turned green sheoke and left it to dry and then re turned it later?
Does it move much?
And does the heart open up when drying.

JAMC

[Claw Hama]

I have used it once and yes it did shrink/split quite a bit.

[weisyboy]

it splits like bugery mate.

if you turn it realy thin and give it some finish it should be allright

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=72272

[Claw Hama]

Thats what I tried but it still split

[Jarrahrules]

This is all a bit disheartening.

the butt of the tree is about 700mm diameter.
I have heaps of pieces half log at about 300mm ripped.

My workshop is currently been taken over by the stuff. I have cut and sealed it all.

JAMC

[BobL]

For minimal splitting it should be quartered (as in pizza shapes) and then the centre cut off and then you turn within the quarter sized pieces. Next best is in half which is not much better than leaving them whole. In most cases it will split but don't be put off by a few splits, just fill them with resin. Once its dry filling the splits on bigger pieces (ie quarters, halves or whole) is a bit easier but uses more resin than filling cracks on curved surfaces after an object has have been turned.

[Jarrahrules]

Hi Bob

Do you think if i slab the butt it will work or will it split to??

JAMC

[Jarrahrules]

For minimal splitting it should be quartered (as in pizza shapes) and then the centre cut off and then you turn within the quarter sized pieces. Next best is in half which is not much better than leaving them whole. In most cases it will split but don't be put off by a few splits, just fill them with resin. Once its dry filling the splits on bigger pieces (ie quarters, halves or whole) is a bit easier but uses more resin than filling cracks on curved surfaces after an object has have been turned.


What would happen if i was to rip the logs below the center and then get some planks from the center. And another on the other side of the center. Effectivly cutting out the heart.

Also in most of the logs the center isn't where the heart is. It is to one side. Does this mean i can get 2/3 rds timbers???

JAMC

[BobL]

What would happen if i was to rip the logs below the center and then get some planks from the center. And another on the other side of the center. Effectivly cutting out the heart.

I think I know what you mean - is it like my picture below


Also in most of the logs the center isn't where the heart is. It is to one side. Does this mean i can get 2/3 rds timbers???
That's correct and sheoak is worse than most. You just have to do your best.

This was a slabbing pattern recommended to me recently for sheoak.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=73276&stc=1&d=1210503305
Those 4 middle radial or quarter saw slabs should be as thick as possible (2" or more) to reduced the chance of splitting while drying.

How do you plan to mill the log?

[Jarrahrules]

I think I know what you mean - is it like my picture below

That's correct and sheoak is worse than most. You just have to do your best.

This was a slabbing pattern recommended to me recently for sheoak.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=73276&stc=1&d=1210503305
Those 4 middle radial or quarter saw slabs should be as thick as possible (2" or more) to reduced the chance of splitting while drying.

How do you plan to mill the log?



That is sort of what i meant.
Take out one of the tram tracks so you get to parts that are nearly halfs and then cut the centre out.

That is what i meant.

Regards
JAMC

[OGYT]

I've turned a good bit of wet Red Oak (upover stuff). If it's finish-turned to less than 1/4" (about 5 or 6 mm) it dries pretty well without splitting, but it sure does warp. Makes some really interesting pieces.
After I've turned the outside, I keep the outside wet with a spray of soapy water while I'm doing the inside. Then I wet sand, spin it as much as I can to get as much moisture out of it as I can, and final sand it. Then after it dries, I final sand it again to get off the raised grain, and finish it. Give it a try, and see what you come up with.
Don't forget the pics. :D

[Caveman]

I've rough turned quite a bit of sheoak (Casuarina cunninghamiana) - all bowls - haven't lost anything yet. It does warp a lot in the drying process, but if roughed a bit oversize (more than the +-10% rule of thumb) I've found it re-turns ok.
I also wax the whole rough out after turning rather than just the end grain - might mean having to wait a bit longer for the piece to dry out - and in my case results in spalting under the wax sometimes, but that doesn't really bother me:shrug:.

BobL's suggestion of splitting the log into quarters will be good for turning natural edged bowls, but will lose a lot of diameter on a standard bowl.
I generally always cut mine in half, but removing a slab from the middle to get rid of the pith.

[orraloon]

I rough turned a few and they warped so much I can not rechuck them. I will sand the base flat and hotmelt a bit if wood on so I can return them. I only sealed the end grain so next time I will do the lot. It is such a good looking timber it is worth the extra hassle.

Regards
John

[Jarrahrules]

Thanks Guys for the advice.
Just thought i would throw in a couple of picks to show what I'm up against.


Soory i have just spent the last F#%^&*&^ 2 hours trying to get the bloody photos down to size so i can show u. Haven't had this trouble before??????????????????/

JAMC:((:((:((:((:((

[Jarrahrules]

See if this works

73355

Hooray it worked.

[Jarrahrules]

:-:-This time i will post all of the photos i wanted to show you guys.:D:D

73356

73357

73358

73359

73360

One is a pile of billets 100mm or less(ends not sealed).
The large one is the butt. It is 650mm dia by 700mm long. the grain isn't in any direction so i can't cut out the heart it has few.

JAMC

[Jarrahrules]

Well i have turned my first item of Sheoke.

Finished in burnishing oil.
73726

73727

73728

73729

73730

Iam happy with the grains

JAMC

[soundman]

Ive worked a few lumps of greenish sheoak.... & you bet it moves.

The radial shrinkage is quite substantial......the stuff I had was certainly not green but it was far from dry.

Turning halves is OK but expect it to shrink like closing a fan.

The best bet I have found is to rough turn the piece makind=g sure you leave plenty of meat.......rather a lot of meat to true up the final piece.

that nice round bowl or whatever will look very oval by the time it is dry

think thick.

then stuff the void with news paper and wrap in several layers of paper.

leave it for a week or 6

then dry it gently in the microwave...... while still wrapped..... initilay.

it is a wise thing to accurately wiegh the item so you can see how it is going.

this stuff can look pretty dry and still give you a nasty surprise so keep zapping it till it don't get any lighter.

I have found a realy good finish is to get it close....still leave some meat....then lay on some shelac realy heavily......letting it dry between coats

shelac will soak straight thru 10mm of wood

once you have it well dosed with shelac let it dry a day or so..... even this will make it move...... then rechuck it and give it a final scrape

you may have to shelac again if you have to remove some material

once it is all cool go at it with some wax.

Do not underestimate how much this stuff can move, but if you read the log well and cut it right cracking shouldnt be too much of a problem.

cheers
cheers

[Jarrahrules]

Ive worked a few lumps of greenish sheoak.... & you bet it moves.

The radial shrinkage is quite substantial......the stuff I had was certainly not green but it was far from dry.

Turning halves is OK but expect it to shrink like closing a fan.

The best bet I have found is to rough turn the piece makind=g sure you leave plenty of meat.......rather a lot of meat to true up the final piece.

that nice round bowl or whatever will look very oval by the time it is dry

think thick.

then stuff the void with news paper and wrap in several layers of paper.

leave it for a week or 6

then dry it gently in the microwave...... while still wrapped..... initilay.

it is a wise thing to accurately wiegh the item so you can see how it is going.

this stuff can look pretty dry and still give you a nasty surprise so keep zapping it till it don't get any lighter.

I have found a realy good finish is to get it close....still leave some meat....then lay on some shelac realy heavily......letting it dry between coats

shelac will soak straight thru 10mm of wood

once you have it well dosed with shelac let it dry a day or so..... even this will make it move...... then rechuck it and give it a final scrape

you may have to shelac again if you have to remove some material

once it is all cool go at it with some wax.

Do not underestimate how much this stuff can move, but if you read the log well and cut it right cracking shouldnt be too much of a problem.

cheers
cheers

Thanks for the advice. :DYes it has already started to move. :rolleyes:My 10 year old son made a small bowl and it has cracked. Doesn't matter he is still proud of it.:o:roll::roll:

Sounds like a lot of work to get a good item out of it.:~

I have cut 2 m3 and stacked it in a crate in my shed. The ends are sealed but we will see what happens.:roll::roll:

Thanks again
JAMC:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup: