Portable Buffing Grinding sanding faceplate making

[littlebuddha]

Another Tutorial, picture tutorial this one is on a portable Buffing grinding sanding system i take around with me to friends and the odd venue, it can be used for faceplate making also. I use the grinder for my rough work when making the odd tool save on my more expensive wheels.
Okay this is a large file over 1mb so it might be as well to go to the site and download the file, with right click save target, rather than double click and have it open in adobe, the choice is yours.

http://shapewood.co.uk/Documents/Buffing%20sanding%20grinding%20system.pdf

http://www.shapewood.co.uk

Will add a few thumbs shortly for a taster. LB

[BobL]

For something like the grinding or maybe a wire wheel wheel I can understand the need for support at the tailstock end, but don't see the need for doing this for something like a buffing wheel. I have used 1/2" and 5/8" bolts and couple of large washers with a buff, various wire brushes, various sanding and scouring pad wheels, and more recently a swansdown polishing mop, unsupported on many different lathes and drill presses for many years without problems. If it's the chuck you are trying to avoid on the lathe, then a MT 1/2 or 5/8" chuck is much smaller than a WW chuck and that's what I sometimes use if that becomes an issue.

The convenient thing about not supporting the tailstock end for these wheels is the support doesn't get in the way of complex shaped objects making it one less thing to hit when polishing etc.

[littlebuddha]

For something like the grinding or maybe a wire wheel wheel I can understand the need for support at the tailstock end, but don't see the need for doing this for something like a buffing wheel. I have used 1/2" and 5/8" bolts and couple of large washers with a buff, various wire brushes, various sanding and scouring pad wheels, and more recently a swansdown polishing mop, unsupported on many different lathes and drill presses for many years without problems. If it's the chuck you are trying to avoid on the lathe, then a MT 1/2 or 5/8" chuck is much smaller than a WW chuck and that's what I sometimes use if that becomes an issue.

The convenient thing about not supporting the tailstock end for these wheels is the support doesn't get in the way of complex shaped objects making it one less thing to hit when polishing etc.

Its a guide nothing set in stone, use it don't use it, if the need arises then take it away, you do as you feel. They put shields and knifes on a tablesaw but we take them of when we need to to put a slideing table. Im not telling anyone what to do, i think they can use there own thoughts to adapt copy or not even bother. LB

[BobL]

Sorry if I sounded a little negative in my previous post. I can really see the safety advantage of supporting both ends of these wheels and do so myself when I feel it's needed. I had a closer look at your tutorial and I learned about the consistent marking and lining up of a position on the wheel/chuck/flanges to give a smoother operation. I'm always after smoother quieter operations so I'll definitely be implementing that I my setup so thanks for that.

BTW for those folks in Australia who have M30 x 3.5 spindles and want to make direct mounting faceplates, McJing have M30 x 3.5 taps for the princely sum of $18!!!! I bought one to see what they are like. The one I have is by no means a precision tool (it has a few chips in the threads) but I've now cut several threads in a 50 mm diam ally rod and the fit on my Woodfast is very good and positive.

Cheers

[artme]

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:Another great idea from the rotund one!!

[OGYT]

You blokes are fortunate to have a McJings in your country! Cheapest M33x3.5 taps I can find in the upover are over twice that.

LB, that 's a nice tutorial. Thanks for posting!

[BobL]

You blokes are fortunate to have a McJings in your country! Cheapest M33x3.5 taps I can find in the upover are over twice that.

OGYT, for every cheap thing we have here there are 99 cheaper things you have there! Power tools, steel, lumber etc - you guys are generally lower than us especially now we are almost $ for $. What that unfortunately means for you guys is your prices cannot be sustained for too much longer and they will have to increase.

[OGYT]

Yer right, Bobl... prices are going up on everything here. Right now, I pay $4.15US for 1 gallon of diesel fuel. When I bought my ute in 2002 it was $1.25. Expect to be payin' $5.00 per gal by the end of the summer.
Just curious... what do you blokes have to pay for diesel fuel, and gasoline?

[Tornatus]

G'day Al

At my local service station diesel is currently selling at A$1.73 per litre = A$6.70 a US gallon. I think petrol/gasoline is around $1.45 per litre.

I drive a diesel Landcruiser, and when I bought it quite a few years ago, diesel was at least 20 cents a litre cheaper than petrol, but there weren't many diesel vehicles around in Australia other than trucks and agricultural vehicles. Now we have a proliferation of what you call SUVs, and quite a few modern turbo-diesel passenger vehicles from Europe, so naturally the price of diesel has risen to nearly 30 cpl more than petrol. The oil companies tell all sorts of lies to justify this, but the plain fact is that diesel is still cheaper to refine than gasoline, being a cruder fraction, so the real reason is just exploitation of a growing market. Added to this is the fact that the federal government excise on fuel in Australia is 39% of the price at the pump, so despite their fake noises of dismay, no government is ever going to take any action on fuel prices that will threaten their revenue income! :((:((:((

[BobL]

Just curious... what do you blokes have to pay for diesel fuel, and gasoline?

I'm paying about US$5.90 - 6.00 per gallon for Diesel and US$5.10 to 5.30 for regular gasoline/petrol at my local petrol station.

I had a clapped out 1600 cc petrol engined van that only got ~18 mpg (US gallons) and recently traded up to a 3 Litre Diesel that gets around 25 mpg so even though diesel costs more I'm still in front

[littlebuddha]

UK Petrol costs you do the maths, we try driving in reverse to save petrol cost:D
And that is across the board my local i filled up friday it was £1.05 a litre.
Petrol 96.5 litre:((
Desil 94.8 litre:((
4.55 litres to the gallon
1.00 GBP = 1.94685 USD
1.00 GBP = 2.06992 AUD
1.00 GBP = 1.96159 CAD
A rather mift, Turning is much more fun.:2tsup: LB

[BobL]

BTW for those folks in Australia who have M30 x 3.5 spindles and want to make direct mounting faceplates, McJing have M30 x 3.5 taps for the princely sum of $18!!!! I bought one to see what they are like. The one I have is by no means a precision tool (it has a few chips in the threads) but I've now cut several threads in a 50 mm diam ally rod and the fit on my Woodfast is very good and positive.


BTW: If anyone in Perth wants to borrow this tap to make a few direct mounts just PM me.

[OGYT]

Sorry for the hijack, Bob. I apologise.
That said, I'd like to use it for a day or two. :D
But can't afford the diesel to go to Perth to pick it up.
I'd probably get half way there, then sink!!:U