Anyone turn coffee scoops?

[OGYT]

I turn a lot of coffee scoops... each one made to hold one Tablespoon, give or take a little... staple items for a craft show. :D
One Bois d'Arc honey dipper in disguise...

[weisyboy]

any chance on a wip on making them?

i would love to have a go but would not know where to start.:2tsup:

[ptc]

same here.
please

[Pat]

Me too. No idea, but interested:)

[Frank&Earnest]

Ditto. I have seen a lot of woodturning books but can't recall coming across this design. Would you give us a bit of its history? Thanks.

[hughie]

Al, :2tsup:

You've got us all leaning forward on this one, such items are not so common down under.

WIP will be well recieved.

[OGYT]

I once read a tutorial on these, but I don't recall where. It was on a turning website somewhere. (Edit: Phil Manzi had a tutorial on woodturningonline.com. Thanks to Gil Jones for the link, below)
I've got some pics that show how I turn them, that I got together for a friend here, that is a beginning turner.

Pic 1 - Start with a 2x2x6 blank, and round about half of it down to 1-3/4” diameter. Beginning at the right edge, make three marks – at ¼” (to get you away from the dimple made by the tailstock live center), 1-1/8”, and 2”. This gives you a <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "qv9" /><st1:bcv_smarttag>mark 7</st1:bcv_smarttag>/8” either side of the center of what will become the “scoop”. I use a bedan or parting tool to narrow the stock down to near ½” on both sides of the outer marks.

I made a plastic template to get the bowl size correctly round (Pic 3). I cut a 1-3/4” circle out of the plastic, cut the bottom off, and shaped it for my hands.

Pic 2 - Next, round the ball end by cutting from the center mark out, both sides. Take it easy, and check with the plastic template often. When there’s a gap between the template and the ball, it isn’t round yet. Move the template around the end and up to the top… make it round. I leave a little elongation on the left side, for room to make a smooth transition into the handle, later.

Pic 3 - After the ball is round, turn down the handle. I like to make a smooth transition to the handle, so people can see that it’s one piece of wood. Sand it, and put on the finish of your choice. You can embellish the handle any way you want to. I usually just make it look like a handle. Too fat, and it’ll look dumpy… too skinny, and it’ll break easily. I make these to be used. I also make the handles different lengths. Some folks want the scoop to be left in the can… some don’t.

[Gil Jones]

Nice work, Al. Here is a place to see how they make the scoops.
http://www.woodturningonline.com/assets/turning_articles/coffee_scoop/scoop.html

[Gene45]

But how did you hollow out the scoop part?

Turn it with the handle swinging around?

A forstner bit in a drill press?

How?

Did I miss something?

[weisyboy]

but how do u hollow the scoup out?

[OGYT]

Pic 4 - When finished, part it off, and sand and finish both ends. Here is the handle with ball end, ready for hollowing out the scoop. It’s just a stick with a ball end.

Pic 5 - This is my scoop chuck, made out of a waste block of Bois d’Arc. It’s hollowed out 7/8” depth, to fit the 1-3/4” ball, lined with thin “foamies” from Wal-Mart which is stuck with double-stick carpet tape. Then some more tape on top of the foam. Notice the rounded notch, upper left, where the handle can sit. I don’t put the handle all the way into the notch, because I think it looks better with a very slight up-turn on the end of the scoop.
I have turned a few scoops to completion by sticking the ball into this chuck, as shown, held in place by the carpet tape. But after launching one across the shop, I began to tape them in place.

Pic 6 - Here, the ball is mounted with the handle at the notch, and the first strip of tape is applied. I use the tailstock to press the ball into the scoop chuck until I finish applying the tape.

[weisyboy]

we are impatient buggers arnt we.:D

thanks for that i wil have to have a go. :2tsup:

and the list gets longer.:doh:

[OGYT]

Pic 7 - I put narrow strips of tape on all four quadrants of the ball, and then tape the ends with a wrap around the circumference of the chuck. I hollow at 1800 to 2000 rpm, and the ends of the narrow strips will sling off the chuck, if they’re not fastened down. Taping the ball in place adds about 1 minute to the turning time.

Pic 8 - Next, I drill a hole to depth. I make the ball 1-3/4" diameter, so I want the hole to be 1-5/8" deep. This will leave the bottom 1/8" thick, until it's scraped smooth and sanded. When finished, the bottom will be nearer to 3/32" thick.

Pic 9 - Keep your toolrest positioned so it will keep your hands clear of the spinning handle. A longer toolrest is better, but I’m used to this one. I hollow with a #1 Hunter tool, and finish by taking a couple of very light cuts with a ½” scraper.
I cut the top edge of the scoop down to about ¼” shy of the handle. When finished like this, the scoop will hold just a little over one Tablespoon.
You can make some with the scoop edge cut lower (1/8” shy of the handle) which will make them hold a bit less than one tablespoon.

Pic 10 - Done. Notice the toolrest moved out of the way for sanding, but still protecting from the spinning handle on this side of the lathe.

Pic 11 - Removed from the chuck. All that's left to do is blow the dust out of the grooves, and clean the tape residue off with a little spirits. Then buff, and it's ready to go into the bowl with the others.

[OGYT]

Hey Gil!! That's the exact tutorial that I saw when I started turning these. Phil Manzi. Thanks for posting the link. This time, I won't forget where I got it.

[hughie]

Al,

Good tute! looks easy the way you do it, many thanks

[dhurrang]

Thanks very much Al :2tsup:

My list has now grown as well :)

[ptc]

Big thank you

[Frank&Earnest]

Thanks Al, all is revealed.:) No surprises, it is the ability of a scoop chuck like the one you are in fact using to provide a secure hold what I was puzzling about. I was expecting some fancy way to keep the handle in the gap between the jaws and have wooden inserts under the jaws to follow the contour of the ball. Simpler is always better! :2tsup:

[steck]

Thank you for sharing!

[coffenup]

yes thanks for showing us how it's done
Regards Michael

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[weisyboy]

thanks i to was wondering how you kept the thing in the chuck wile hollowing.:2tsup:

[ticklingmedusa]

Very cool Al! :2tsup:

[Harry72]

Yep thumbs up for that Al!:)

[joe greiner]

Great tutorial, Al. And a little better than Phil's (I think), with the added advice about using the tape.

FWIW, you have your own sub-folders within my Woodturning folder.

Just a hint for others who save such stuff: It helps to rename the saved pictures by adding a leading sequence number, for automatic sorting; and preferably to match the picture ID's in the text.

Whenever I upload sequence-dependent pictures, I try to name them in advance with a similar feature, so that I don't lose track of what goes where. The "Browse" command for uploading doesn't show my thumbnails. Al placed his sequence numbers inside the file names, which seems to have worked well enough because the first part of the filename is constant, but it looks like he had to adjust the pic ID's in the text after Pic 4.

Joe

[Hickory]

Great idea and I have seen this before , Concern then was (on that forum) that the handle became a flailing weapon as it turned and many were feared of the possibilities. :oo:

One solution for protection would be to construct a shield or barrier to place between the turner and the spinning chuck. A verticle piece of plywood or plexiglass to shield the operator from accidental "reaching in". :2tsup:

[chrisb691]

Greatr Tutorial. Thanks Al. :2tsup:

[OGYT]

Everyone... you're welcome... I just thought it might be something that interested a few folks.

Joe, I tried to put the pics in order, but the chuck pic I had taken a while back, so it was in a different location, and didn't get the sequence numbers.

Hickory, I use my toolrest as a guard, and keep my hands on the tailstock side of it... most of the time. However, one time is all it takes, and when that spinning handle raps your knuckles, you remember it for a long time. :)

[Caveman]

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:Nice one Al - thanks for that!

[littlebuddha]

Everyone... you're welcome... I just thought it might be something that interested a few folks.

Joe, I tried to put the pics in order, but the chuck pic I had taken a while back, so it was in a different location, and didn't get the sequence numbers.

Hickory, I use my toolrest as a guard, and keep my hands on the tailstock side of it... most of the time. However, one time is all it takes, and when that spinning handle raps your knuckles, you remember it for a long time. :)


NO PAIN NO GAIN:U Nice to see a tutorial i think that instead of showing of our work as a one of pic that it would be good to go through a sequence of how its done, also the odd ways that we work and hold stuff, sometimes there is a simple anwser but we don't always see it. I think tutorials are good for both season turners and beginners we can all learn from each other, just remember to take the camera down the shop, even a bad pic is worth a thousand words, or a little youtube fun is good. Thanks for the TUT or is it a scoop:D:2tsup: LB

[joe greiner]

Joe, I tried to put the pics in order, but the chuck pic I had taken a while back, so it was in a different location, and didn't get the sequence numbers.

Al, my hard drive is less than half full. YMMV, obviously. I've found it simplest to make a new folder for upload content, with copies of pictures contributing to the WIP, as well as the text. Then rename the copied pic files as needed for consistency. Easier to edit this way, and there's less thrashing about when it's time for the upload.

Joe

[Pat]

Thanks Al!

Mods could this be placed in "Best of the best" please?

[weisyboy]

:iagree:

[RETIRED]

Thanks Al!

Mods could this be placed in "Best of the best" please?Done,

[wheelinround]

Excellent :2tsup: thread OGYT and all who contributed

[Pat]

Thanks .