burning lines

[weisyboy]

how can i burn lines on my work without them going to deep.

i have tried wire but it just cuts in maby i am doing somthing rong.

[ss_11000]

use a texta.

an artline pen or similar

[weisyboy]

i would prefer burnt lines but i supose i could do that. pen dose tend to fade thow and it smudges when aplying the finish.

[flynnsart]

Have you tried a soldering iron if you have one?

Donna

[bitingmidge]

Use finer wire. I use mandolin strings Guages: .011-.015-.026-.039

(that'd be inches)

I put a small score in first with the chisel, then burn till I like it. (I'm speaking with the authority of someone who's done this ohhh.... a dozen times!)

Cheers,

P

[RETIRED]

Use finer wire. I use mandolin strings Guages: .011-.015-.026-.039

(that'd be inches)

I put a small score in first with the chisel, then burn till I like it. (I'm speaking with the authority of someone who's done this ohhh.... a dozen times!)

Cheers,

P:iagree: and I speak with the authority of having done thousands of them.:D

Thin welding wire or steel guitar strings.

[orraloon]

I use fishing tackle wire trace. Got the tip on some turning site. I have also got reasonable results with copper electrical flex( plastic removed ).

[bitingmidge]

:I speak with the authority of having done thousands of them.:D
I thought you pro blokes used stripey timber! :oo:

P
:D:D:D

[OGYT]

I use wire, and a scrap piece of formica. Apply a little pressure, and turn up the speed. Speed is the key, and remember, closer to the axis of rotation the speed is slower than farther out... in other words, if I'm burning a circle on the bottom of the piece, it takes a little longer than when I'm burning a groove around the rim of a bowl.

[weisyboy]

iv got some old guitar strings round here somware ill try them.:2tsup: thanks guys.

a little woden handle on each end probly wouldnt go astrat to stop the wire cutting would it?

[Gil Jones]

Most of my friction burned lines are done with stainless steel safety-wire (the kind used on aircraft, though I doubt it matters). The usual size that I use is .020", and .032". I have tried copper (solid) wire, but it transfers (conducts) the heat away from the friction spot too fast.
I have found that increasing the lathe speed will develop more friction with less pressure on the wire (and less cutting into the wood). I have tried twisted, multi-strand wire, but find that it cuts into the wood quickly, so solid wire is best.

[bitingmidge]

a little woden handle on each end probly wouldnt go astrat to stop the wire cutting would it?

What? You want everyone here to think you're some kind of wally or something? Just wrap each end round a stick.

Or you could do what I do... :-

(at least I didn't polish them.)

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74123&d=1211690869

P
:D:D:D

[tea lady]

iv got some old guitar strings round here somware ill try them.:2tsup: thanks guys.

a little woden handle on each end probly wouldnt go astrat to stop the wire cutting would it?

:oo: You are full of surprises.:D

[jimbur]

And they're handy for garrotting the over-zealous critic:D
Jim

[ss_11000]

i have two home made sets. one i think has welding wire ( of some sought ), and the other has the bottom string of a guitar on it.

i dont use the texta or pen much but i thought i would suggest it to you anyway

[DavidG]

What ever you do, DO NOT wrap the wire around your fingers.

If it gets caught ..............................................

[RETIRED]

I thought you pro blokes used stripey timber! :oo:

P
:D:D:DHard to find sometimes so we have to improvise.:wink::D

[woodwork wally]

Carl If you can lay hands on some laminex or similar use that edge on to the job or alternately a slice of redgum will burn any softer wood nice and black Use of a small amount of abrasive like EEE will often help as well Regards WW Wally

[powderpost]

I use ordinary galvanised fence tie wire from the hardware store. Burns quickly without going too deep. Use the point of the skew to make a small cut first. Use what ever size wire is necessary. Handles are very necessary.
Jim

[joe greiner]

Here's a couple earlier threads on this topic:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=43170

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=49621

And here, with use of a dental pick for awkward surfaces: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=49961

Depth of burning is not easy to control. If you're concerned about cutting too deep with the wire, it's probably easiest to let it cut as deep as it wants to, and sand down the adjacent surface afterwards; provided of course that it doesn't change the profile beyond your intentions.

Joe

[mick61]

G`day just grab some laminate samples from bunnings.
Mick:D

[Rippa]

Just turn the blade of your junior hacksaw upside down and smoke it up with a bit of speed.

Rippa

[weisyboy]

i supose ironbark would work just as good as blue gum and i think iv got some lamanex here someware. and plenty of ols hacksaw blades thanks for the help guys.:2tsup:

[oldiephred]

I use steel fishing leader which comes in different diameters. I also use the cable from the shifting or brake mechanism of a multi speed bicycle. The twisted or braided wires seem to work best for me. I made holders from scrap wood and they look like oversize sling shots. Work well. As already mentioned, you should consider scoring a fine groove first for the wire to follow. Apply plenty of pressure.