Great Leigh jig result

[lesmeyer]

I have had the D4R for almost a year now. The results with the D4R and the Triton router (MOF001) can vary from excellent to poor. The main reason for this is that the guide bush needs to be removed between cutter changes. This causes concentricity problems resulting in small gaps when cutting the pins. I have tried to replace the guide bush the same way between cutter changes, however the guide bush is not a snug fit with the guide bush plate. This makes it difficult the get the guide bush back in exactly the same way. My Makita 3601B should be better, but the universal base plate that I fitted, did not come as good as I hoped. The thing does not center as it should ( I belive this to be my fault). I due procured the Festoool OF1400. This router does not have the problems mentioned above. No concentricity issues. The Leigh cutter turn out to be long enough (not so with other routers) due to the great plunge system and the Fest guide bush adapter which was specially designed for the Leigh 711TP and 716TP guide bushes. This system ensures that the guide bush goes back the same way if taken out - although it can remain in place all the time. I purchased the Leigh jig with high expectations (I did demo the D1600 using Festool routers at last years Perth wood show). The router system of the Triton did let me down a little. The Festool OF1400 takes the accuracy to a new level. I am sure that the same can be achieved with many other router brands such as Dewalt, Bosch, Makita, Porter Cable, Hitachi to name a few. Obtaining one of these would also have served me well. I place a photo of one of the test results from earlier today as this was the first chance I had to play with the OF1400. The quality of the joint is excellent. I did have the cutter set too deep though.
Regards
Les

[kmthor]

why dont you use the Makita for one bit and the triton for the other, would that solve it??

km

[Carry Pine]

les,

I guess you bought the festool guide bush (approx $40)? I guess you would need to buy 2 of them for the different sized cutters.
I did look at the Ideal tool site and I don't think they had both.
I thought you could clear this up for those who are new to leigh.

Carry Pine

[rayintheuk]

The results with the D4R and the Triton router (MOF001) can vary from excellent to poor. The main reason for this is that the guide bush needs to be removed between cutter changes.
Why don't you push in the spindle lock by hand and change the bit at the top of the plunge? All you'd need to do is remove a dust shroud, if you haven't already. :)

Ray.

[lesmeyer]

why dont you use the Makita for one bit and the triton for the other, would that solve it??

km
KM,
that will produce a problem with concentricity. No 2 guide bushes, cutter shanks and collets are exactly concentric. Mass production no matter the quality does not produce a perfect result. One is better of using one router even if the guide bush is reoved.
Les

[lesmeyer]

les,

I guess you bought the festool guide bush (approx $40)? I guess you would need to buy 2 of them for the different sized cutters.
I did look at the Ideal tool site and I don't think they had both.
I thought you could clear this up for those who are new to leigh.

Carry Pine
Graham,
Festool do not actually make copy rings required for the Leigh jig. They do however make a copy ring adaptor. The Leigh guide bushes 711TP and 716TP are very good fits for the adaptor. This adaptor fits the OF1400 as a snap in system just like the normal Festo copy rings. If one does not remove the guide bush from the adaptor, it will go back exactly the same way.
The adaptor is similar to what is used on the Triton except that is snaps in and out.
Hope this helps.
Les

[lesmeyer]

Why don't you push in the spindle lock by hand and change the bit at the top of the plunge? All you'd need to do is remove a dust shroud, if you haven't already. :)

Ray.
Ray, your a right in what you say. It is possible. I have not removed the shroud. I have enough challenges at work every day (web servers and databases), I was wanting one less challenge in the workshop (I do enjoy challenges though) and needed 1/2 excuse to get the Festool OF1400. It is a lot of money, but this was for my birthday and fathers day coming up in Sep (yes Sep in OZ for fathers day):D. The Triton MOF001 does have one advantage over the OF1400 though - the micro winder. The OF1400 does have 1/10mm adjustment which is more than adequate.
Les

[Slavo]

Les,
What about getting an engineers scribe and marking some reference points on the guide bush and the guide bush holder (eg. one facing towards the jig and 2 at the rear/one mark every 90 degrees). That way you can match up the marks. I haven't tried this myself yet, but thanks for the heads up on a potential issue.

[lesmeyer]

Les,
What about getting an engineers scribe and marking some reference points on the guide bush and the guide bush holder (eg. one facing towards the jig and 2 at the rear/one mark every 90 degrees). That way you can match up the marks. I haven't tried this myself yet, but thanks for the heads up on a potential issue.
I have done that and it does help. The other problem that is actually the real problem, is that the triton guide bushes does not have a snug fit into the plate. It moves about 1 mm. This is also a problem with the brass guide bushes that supposedly fit into the 30mm holes of the universal base plates. Most will move by at least 1/2 mm and that is too much to achieve good looking dovetails.
Maybe I am just a poor workman blaming my tools. Anyway I just wanted to share my experience since the purchase of the Leigh D4R was so that I could obtain great looking dovetails.
Regards
Les

[routermaniac]

Les I can safely bet that you are not the first person to have difficulties with reproducibly repositioning the guides.

One way to get around this is to machine a plate with a perfect insert in the middle and fix it onto one router permanently.

This is what I have done in the past. The easiest guides to fit in a home made plate and maintain accuracy are the brass type guides. What I used to do is roughly cut a piece of perspex, fit it to the router, plunge a straight bit through it and progressively do this until you get to the required size of opening. You then need to create a step with a bit that is exactly the outside diameter of your template guides. I do this by fully plunging the router and use a chamfer bit from timbecon (happens to be the exact diameter). I attach the chamfer bit so that it is outside the base of the router. Then I use the fine adjustment and rout a tiny lip as I unwind the fine adjustment on the router. I keep checking progress with a depth gauge. It is best to make the in such a way that the guide sits a hairs thickness just below the base of the router.

This ensures perfect concentricity and costs about $5 for the perspex or whatever else you will use. You can finish the side of the plate using a straight bit with a roller guide on the router table.

regards

Marios

[lesmeyer]

Marios,
good to see someone understand exactly what I am talking about. Your idea is brilliant and that is exactly what is required. I took the expensive option and got the Festool OF1400. I hope that others will be able to do what you have done. This will produce wonderfully accurate dovetails.
Regards
Les