Coffee scoops chuck

[Frank&Earnest]

Just while I was thinking about turning the coffee scoops shown on the cover of Phil Iron's book "Woodturning" (pic 1), Al demonstrated how to turn a different design in http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=73124.

In both cases the chuck used for the hollowing is a classic jam chuck (centre photo at the bottom of the book cover). The problem with that is that its holding is a bit dicey, even with the addition of tape, and the handle of the scoop is flailing around in a rather risky manner. In the book Phil Irons suggests to make a special chuck for the purpose, but does not say how.

This is what I came up with to solve these problems and accommodate both these and similar designs, provided the scoop bowl is of the same diametre. It is fairly self-explanatory, but I made photos while I went just in case you think a tutorial is warranted.

[tea lady]

Cool.:2tsup:

[joe greiner]

Looks very good, F&E, as well as the cutting sled. Basically a donut chuck for coffee scoops. Any particular reason for four slots? Or just seemed like a good idea at the time?

Joe

[Frank&Earnest]

Looks very good, F&E, as well as the cutting sled. Basically a donut chuck for coffee scoops. Any particular reason for four slots? Or just seemed like a good idea at the time?

Joe

Besides eye pleasing symmetry, it allows for 4 design variations (longer handle etc.). I have been thinking this as I went and knocked it together with what was around just to prove the concept. I am sure that many improvements could be made. For example, filling in the end of the groove around the rim, using round head bolts with wingnuts, casting the groove beds instead of hacking them with a chisel, etc.

[OGYT]

F&E, it looks good. I think using round head bolts with wingnuts on the back would make it even better. I also think you could get by with only two bolts, if that is tempered masonite that holds it in the chuck, because there isn't enough flex in that small a piece of masonite to allow any escape. Good job! :)

[orraloon]

Good one F&E,
I have been wanting to have a go at scoops for a while now but seeing the handle spinning round sort of dulled the urge. This is the belt and braces method.

Regards
John

[robutacion]

Just while I was thinking about turning the coffee scoops shown on the cover of Phil Iron's book "Woodturning" (pic 1), Al demonstrated how to turn a different design in http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=73124.

In both cases the chuck used for the hollowing is a classic jam chuck (centre photo at the bottom of the book cover). The problem with that is that its holding is a bit dicey, even with the addition of tape, and the handle of the scoop is flailing around in a rather risky manner. In the book Phil Irons suggests to make a special chuck for the purpose, but does not say how.

This is what I came up with to solve these problems and accommodate both these and similar designs, provided the scoop bowl is of the same diametre. It is fairly self-explanatory, but I made photos while I went just in case you think a tutorial is warranted.

Hi Frank&Earnest,
That's very smart Mister!
The "grey" top material working, huh?:D

Cheers
RBTCO

[ticklingmedusa]

great idea

[coffenup]

love it what a great idea. has given me a couple of ideas
Regards
Michael

[BobL]

Very cool, gets a big tick from me!

[Frank&Earnest]

Thank you all for your nice comments, guys, much appreciated. Especially when coming from Bob, toolmaker extraordinaire....:wink:

[Hickory]

Me Too, to chime in Accolades :2tsup: I was muddling over in my small mind such a chuckaroo with a large disc to keep the handle from flailing around and causing more harm than good.

But I hadn't thought of your approach. wasn't sure how to secure the bowl for turning (hollowing)

Am I right to Assume that you used T-nuts to mount the ring that secures the bowl?

Great idea and thanks for the posting. :2tsup:

[Frank&Earnest]

Am I right to Assume that you used T-nuts to mount the ring that secures the bowl?



Don't know what T-nuts are, I assume (that makes two of us :D) that they are what I call wingnuts. Anyway, the pic shows what I wanted to use, I just used normal bolts to build the prototype.

[ticklingmedusa]

F & E,
have a look at t-track & bolts. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5209&filter=t%20track
Not much different than a wing nut really.
Its expensive but extremely useful.
I think it makes repetitive operations more accurate and perhaps safer
due to the flat heads.
I keep some around for when the muse whispers to me.
I plan on using them when I put your spoon chuck together to keep me knuckles
unbloodied.
tm

[BobL]

Thank you all for your nice comments, guys, much appreciated. Especially when coming from Bob, toolmaker extraordinaire....:wink:

Dunno about that - "copier-modifier" may be a better term. I'll be copying it soon. :wink:

I was thinking, instead of making it solid circular, make it as a set of 4 independent chuck jaws, not unlike the plastic soft jaws you see around the place. The same with the cover plate, Instead of a one piece cover plate, add 4 independent plates that can be adjusted in an out depending on the size of the spoon. One problem might be the handle might sometimes be too wide compared to the bowl part but that could be overcome with a little packing.

Also instead of making the chuck jaw pieces triangular as shown in my diagram it would be better to make them pie shaped.


http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=74943&stc=1&d=1212922447

[Frank&Earnest]

Congratulations Bob, that's probably more akin to what Phil Irons had in mind. He does not mention a "chuck", his exact words are "a set of jaws specifically made". He then continues to say "A jam chuck with a cut out for the handle will do the job for a few spoons", in other words the investment is justified only if you produce many spoons.

The reasons I went for the solid chuck are that
1. if the idea is to produce many of the same, 4 preset types are quite worthwhile, no need to adjust the jaws for each type

2 however good my ideas, I do not have the mechanical skills to develop sophisticated items :-.

I am bound to KIS because S...uperficial :D. Once the problem is solved logically, I lose interest in the execution, unfortunately.

TM, in my ignorance, I do not see the advantage of T nuts in this situation, but will be very interested in seeing your improvements... better if you do it, for the reason above.:D

[joe greiner]

Hickory's reference to T-nuts likely means an affair like a pipe flange, with three or four prongs to secure it into the wood. I don't see an advantage over wing nuts, because wing nuts can be engaged faster. T-nuts on the back would work well enough with wing bolts, but the wings would protrude beyond the face, and wing bolts are scarce as hens' teeth. For special situations, I've made my own from wing nuts and all-thread (plus Loctite), but almost not worth the effort.

For really rapid change-out, I'd consider over-centre latches as used on tool boxes and such, all on the working face. About $1 each when purchased in bulk, and not too much more in onesy-twosy.

Joe

[Tiger]

I tried to make a scoop over the weekend and found that even with a tight-fitting jam chuck that the scoop would fly out. I think that the scoop has to be spherical with tight tolerances to work in a jam chuck. Having had a couple of go's at this project, it's a lot harder than it looks, gotta admire those that can produce production runs of these.

If I was to attempt more of these, think I'll go down the F & E chuck route. Also like Bob's idea so that you can make different size spoons. I too have the Phil Irons book but he does neglect to describe how to make a purpose built chuck for these scoops and the 2 abovementioned designs would really help here.

[NeilS]

:2tsup:

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