'New' tool ??!!??!!

[TTIT]

The Territory boys should have done the patent thingy - have a look what this mob (http://www.easywoodtools.com/) are marketing as 'new'. :o
I'm thinking I might revisit the carbide cutter I setup for turning Quinine and add a deflector - could be interesting :shrug:

[funkychicken]

Am I gonna be the only one who thinks those handles are hideous

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Is it my imagination, or does the tool being used in the demo videos have a different handle to those displayed? (Which I wouldn't say are hideous... but which I'm in no hurry whatsoever to try and emulate.)

[TTIT]

Hmmmm - hadn't noticed the videos - thanks Skew! After seeing the movie I doubt I'll bother reading the book - or throwing out my other chisels just yet :; Scraping is scraping no matter what the metal so the finish is still going to need a lot of work - and I think our hardwoods would give it curry! He talks about 15 bowls per cutter face - 60 bowls per cutter would convert to about 20 per cutter on Oz timber maybe - can't resharpen - no great value there :shrug:

[robyn2839]

bought this on saturday cheaper option to buy here ,.bob <input name="pid" value="254" type="hidden"> <table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="4" height="119" width="100%"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td rowspan="2" height="115" width="1">http://www.gregmach.com/onlineshopping/images/j-709190...jpg (http://www.gregmach.com/onlineshopping/prod255.htm)

</td> <td rowspan="2" align="left" height="115">Chisel - Multi-Tip ScraperTurning tool (J-709190)

Multi-Tip Scraper - 12.6" (320mm) wooden handle (490mm overall length)



</td> <td rowspan="2" height="115" width="10">
</td> <td height="58" width="90">Price:
<script>document.write(getProductPrice("&#036;","\,",2,".",false, true, 255,"inc GST within Australia","inc GST within Australia","International Orders",1,true));</script>$120.00
<script>document.write(getPriceInfo(255,"inc GST within Australia","inc GST within Australia","International Orders",1,true));</script>inc GST within Australia

</td> <td align="center" height="64" width="90"><form method="get" action="viewcart.htm" name="form_1" onsubmit="if (addProductToCart(this,'','This website does not accept fractional quantities. Please type in a whole number','fracqtyerrmsg.htm') == false) return false ;"> <center> <input src="http://www.gregmach.com/onlineshopping/images/b_buynow.gif" name="Buy Chisel - Multi-Tip ScraperTurning tool (J-709190)" alt="Buy Chisel - Multi-Tip ScraperTurning tool (J-709190)" border="0" height="15" type="image" width="53">

http://www.gregmach.com/onlineshopping/images/info02.gif (http://www.gregmach.com/onlineshopping/prod255.htm)</center>
</form></td></tr></tbody></table>

[TTIT]

Interesting one Bob - can't see a brand name :shrug:. I'm no metallurgist but I suspect that even the M2-HSS would not be quite as hard as the carbide tips that the Ci1-rougher thingy has. Has the unit you bought got a round side to the shaft so you can roll it for shear-scraping or is it flat sided like the rougher????

Note: Still buying toys so he must be determined to keep turning :;:2tsup:

[robyn2839]

no flat on the bottom,will find carbide thingys for it eventually,the brand is jet,picked it up when i bought the dusty ......bob

[Stuart]

You have to admit, it is no fun roughing a blank down close to finish shape. The pounding, the gripping, the catching, the sharpening, and getting covered with shavings is the part of woodturning that people don’t like so much.
Perhaps I'm strange, but that's part of turning I really do enjoy - taking a chunk of timber, getting a big rouging gouge and going for it!

[robyn2839]

i,m afraid i agree with Stuart,thats the best part........bob

[Cliff Rogers]

Yup, I love roughing out too, particularly wet/green blanks. :2tsup:

[NeilS]

I suspect that even the M2-HSS would not be quite as hard as the carbide tips that the Ci1-rougher thingy has.

Replacement carbide tip are readily available if you want to go that way, eg:

eBay 260249076444 and 260251751411

The common wisdom on HSS vs Carbide is that HSS will give a keener edge for finer 'cuts' but carbide will last much longer with a less keen edge. Something to do with particle size and cystalline structure. For some views on HSS vs Carbide see:

http://www.woodworking-online.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13520

I have a couple of handfulls of used carbide machining tips somewhere which I might play with at some stage. Sharpening them is the issue.... probably just use a diamond bit in the Dremel.

And, the big P&N roughing gouge still gets my vote for quickly hogging down convex profiles.... with a keen edge it will also give quite a decent finish.

Neil

[rsser]

Apart from that all those issues, roughing a bowl while standing at 90 degrees to the bed is not the best way to get a nice line IMO ... the best 'bowl tango' is rotating the hips while moving the weight from one foot to t' other.

I'm hoping Tea Lady will design a Tai Chi move for this when she becomes a 'master' ;-}

[Caveman]

Perhaps I'm strange, but that's part of turning I really do enjoy - taking a chunk of timber, getting a big rouging gouge and going for it!


:2tsup:Me too!!!

[RETIRED]

Yup, I love roughing out too, particularly wet/green blanks. :2tsup:Have been known to just turn to nothing.:whistling2:

[hughie]

I saw this on another forum a few weeks ago, didnt do much for me. I doubt it would handle burls that well or any dry local hardwood.

Green it should be ok. :U

TCT will always be for me a rough out tool, maybe some scraping of the corduroy re a shaped scraper set up.

I have been using ceramic tips they will hold an edge several times longer than conventional TCT tips. The tip I used at the Turnfest was ceramic it still looks ok.

For ripping out on green timber the Proforme is hard to beat.

[Cliff Rogers]

Have been known to just turn to nothing.:whistling2:
See through. :D

[joe greiner]

Have been known to just turn to nothing.:whistling2:

Yup. Sometimes just for fun; or to produce shavings for the garden. Usually, but not always, because the chunk is hopeless.

Joe

[RETIRED]

Yup. Sometimes just for fun; or to produce shavings for the garden. Usually, but not always, because the chunk is hopeless.

JoeAll of the above, mainly the first 'cause I don't get the chance very often.:D

[Grumpy John]

The Territory boys should have done the patent thingy - have a look what this mob (http://www.easywoodtools.com/) are marketing as 'new'. :o
I'm thinking I might revisit the carbide cutter I setup for turning Quinine and add a deflector - could be interesting :shrug:


Hi Vern
Have you scared these guys off, link not working. "Service unavailable"

[DJ’s Timber]

Hi Vern
Have you scared these guys off, link not working. "Service unavailable"

Link is working for me GJ, just tried it now and it's fine :shrug:

[Grumpy John]

Link is working for me GJ, just tried it now and it's fine :shrug:


O.K. works now, problem might have been at my end or maybe site was down for maintenance :shrug::hmm:.

[Stu in Tokyo]

Well you guys, I have one and I have to tell you, it works, it works REALLY well.

Take a look at my videos........

Stu's Review of the Ci1 Easy Rougher 1/4

This is a lot more than just a scraper, trust me.

The carbide insert is sharp enough to slice your finger open.

Since I did the video, I've roughed out Seven 10" bowls, in Red Keyaki, which is a very hard cousin of Elm, I usually have to sharpen about every minute or two of turning with my P&N Supra flute gouge. The wood is NOT wet, it is mostly dried out. I finally did turn my carbide insert one turn, but I found that it did not really make a difference, the 1st side was still very sharp.

The angle the insert is sharpened at makes it NOT self feed and now that I've had more time on the tool, I now SELDOM stall the lathe. Also, when doing this work, the tool is NOT beating you up, it is dead easy to use. I know the handles are not pretty, but you mainly push with this tool, well with most lathe tools the push cut is the one you use the most, the funky handle (I made my own) helps with hand fatigue, you do not have to grip the tool as hard, I roughed out 4 10" bowls in about two hours, and I really think I could do this all day, as it is much easier on the hands and arms than roughing with a bowl gouge.

You guys may very well be real skeptics, which is fine, I was too, but now, I'm convinced, this tool certainly has a place in my tool rack.

Does it do "everything" no, of course not, it is designed to quickly, efficiently and easily rough out bowl blanks, it does that well.

I in no way get paid for saying any of this, I'm just a very satisfied customer, and Craig is great to deal with, no problems at all shipping to Japan.

Cheers! :)

[Cliff Rogers]

Good on ya Stu, thanks for putting that up.... :2tsup:
Now I want to see how it goes on real timber. :D

[Sawdust Maker]

Stu
thanks for the clip - looked like fun.
does it replace your gouge or is there a place for both?
and being a sceptic (comes with the territory) how will it perform on some of our cranky timbers?

Is the bar that special? or could we knock up our own and just get the tips?

Cheers

[Stu in Tokyo]

OK, I know that that Red Keyaki is not your Oz timber, but it is HARD and it is HARD ON tools, trust me on that, makes stuff like Hard Maple look like butter to me.

I certainly think there is room on anyone's tool rack for this tool, make your own, go for it, give it a shot, but this is one VERY nicely made piece of kit, if you know me at all, you know I like to make my own stuff, heck, I built my own bandsaw, but the quality of this piece is not something you are used to seeing anymore, I think for the money, it is a great deal. You might want to make the deflector shield, but that too is VERY well made :2tsup: and at only $25, was hard to justify making my own, my time is worth something:rolleyes:

BTW, not sure who you are calling a Septic, but I'll have you know, that I'm a Canuck :U

Cheers! :)

[hughie]

Hmm, very interesting.

I guess seeing that its very sharp then the tip must belong to the carbide grade that is a very fine grain structure. Normally these are used in the finishing cuts on metal turning.

Just a couple of questions what is the front angle on the tip?
If you hold the tip up to the light is there any discernable polishing to the cutting edge to date?

I am familar with Chinese Elm and it is hard when its very dry and somewhat brittle.

I have got some of these fine grade tips somewheres , will have to dig em out and give em another look at.

[Old Croc]

Hughie, you mentioned earlier you used ceramic cutters. I am trying to turn some Qld Black Walnut. This timber blunt's HSS in 2 turns, a Glasser Hi-tec gouge in 7 to 9 turns and tungsten for stainless steel of my metal lathe lasts about 5 minutes and the sharp cutting edge is worn off. Went to Carmet Micona and he told me that ceramic was too fragile to use on timber. Any suggestions on where to from here would be appreaciated as I really would like to finish these large bowls.
regards,
Crocy.

[Sawdust Maker]

BTW, not sure who you are calling a Septic, but I'll have you know, that I'm a Canuck :U

Cheers! :)

You had me there for a second :C like 'what's he on about?':doh:
Sorry didn't pick up the correct accent :rolleyes: I thought you were one of us oz type people, ie from a land dry and dusty rather then cold and icy.:D
and the wood turning gear, I would have expected something in red, akin to Mountie gear :o
I sincerely hope you whistle the classic python song whilst turning :D

[tea lady]

I saw this on another forum a few weeks ago, didnt do much for me. I doubt it would handle burls that well or any dry local hardwood.

Green it should be ok. :U

TCT will always be for me a rough out tool, maybe some scraping of the corduroy re a shaped scraper set up.

I have been using ceramic tips they will hold an edge several times longer than conventional TCT tips. The tip I used at the Turnfest was ceramic it still looks ok.

For ripping out on green timber the Proforme is hard to beat.

Ceramic tips? Where are they? I'm kinda looking for something like that to turn the pottery with. I have a TCT tool which is like tiny and came from america. Cost over $100, but I go through prolly50 $5 steel loop tools per year so........ (Why is pottery so hard on edges when it is squishy? Clay is made of tiny particles of silica. What wears out your tools in wood turning? Bingo!!!)

[Sawdust Maker]

I was going to say "why should one invest over $100 on one of these (plus freight) when you could get a P&N roughing gouge for half the price"

A quick check of the price at Hare & Forbes and also Vermec suggests that you could expect to pay that for a P&N :o Prices seem to have gone up in the last few months

So I wont say anything!

But I do note that Stu seems to imply that these are better then a sunday roast, if not ...

[Burnsy]

Looking at this it seems to be a worthwhile tool, especially for me who is relatively useless at sharpening my gouges, $14 replacement tips are reasonable.

My query would be the claim that you can rotate the tip to obtain four fresh cutting surfaces. I watched Stu's video and the one on the C1 site and both seem to be cutting with not only the front face but the left and right face as well. Unless this is just an illusion of the video, I would summise therefore that you would only get one actual rotataion (180 degrees) that would give you a totally fresh cutting face.

Am I correct here Stu or is it just the way it looks on the videos?

[Stu in Tokyo]

I thought I'd post these pics of the tip of the tool after roughing out the last two bowls...........

75844 75845 75846 75847

75848 75849 75850

This tool looks gummed up, but at this stage is still cuts well!

The one corner is chipped, yep, I took a nice chunk out of my chuck jaws :doh:

[Burnsy]

So I am correct then? You are using the corners heavily and as such will only get one 180 degree rotation out of the cutter?

Cheers,
Mike

[Stu in Tokyo]

So I am correct then? You are using the corners heavily and as such will only get one 180 degree rotation out of the cutter?

Cheers,
Mike

I guess you could say that, but that is also one of the things that sets this tool apart from any "Scraper" it has a primary and a secondary cutting edge but there are also four corners on the insert.....

Watch this video......

YouTube - Woodturning Bowl - Ci1 Easy Rougher Finish Cut

.......of Craig doing the finishing cut, might explain it better.

Cheers!

[Cliff Rogers]

BEWARE THE FREIGHT COST TO AUS..... :((

I thought I'd try the tips out on a similar tool holder that I already have.
I ordered 3 tips & one or the flash plastic chip deflectors.
You don't find out what the freight is going to cost until you have placed the order & paid for it.
Some time later you get an e-mail to go to a site to pay for the freight, it has cost me $35.62AUD for postage of 3 tips & a chip deflector that cost $72.79 AUD. :((

[Sawdust Maker]

If there was sufficient interest maybe we could do a bulk order and amortise the freight component, cause the freight component can be a killer as Cliff notes

[Burnsy]

If there was sufficient interest maybe we could do a bulk order and amortise the freight component, cause the freight component can be a killer as Cliff notes

Maybe if people jst want tips and are making their own shafts and handles you would be better finding a local tool maker who can make or source a batch of TCT tips.

[Stu in Tokyo]

Cliff, who did you order from?

If you order directly from Craig, at www.easywoodtools.com you might do better on the shipping?

Cheers!

[rsser]

So how do you sharpen the tips?

From reading in the forum, seems a green wheel is needed, or maybe a cheap drill-mounted diamond wheel ... ?

[Cliff Rogers]

Cliff, who did you order from?

If you order directly from Craig, at www.easywoodtools.com (http://www.easywoodtools.com) you might do better on the shipping?

Cheers!
Dear Cliff.Rogers,
Craig Jackson ([email protected]) would like to be paid through PayPal.
Pay Craig Jackson now with PayPal!
-----------------------------------
Invoice Details
-----------------------------------
From:
Craig Jackson
2509 Woodland Drive
Owensboro, KY 42301
United States
270-771-0955
[email protected]
Subtotal: 32.75
Total: $32.75 USD
Note: This is the invoice for the shipping for your Ci1 Easy Rougher order.

[rsser]

Yeah, I get some gear from time to time from the US and shipping charges seem to vary a lot, from twenty to sixty USD apparently regardless of weight or bulk or shipping mode.

[Stu in Tokyo]

Well Cliff, I paid exactly the same in USD for my shipping to Japan for my stuff.

At least that is the exact amount that Craig paid the US post office, so I'd not be POed at Craig, but at the Post Office :~

The only thing more I can add, is that the shipping of the same sized box from Japan to the US would be nearly DOUBLE, yes, you read that right, almost twice the price to ship the same thing from Japan to the US compared to the US to Japan, go figure :no:

Look forward to your review and impression.

Cheers!

[Cliff Rogers]

I've ordered a fair few things from overseas over the last 8 to 10 years... the shipping costs vary heaps. :(

Amazon seem to be able to ship a pile of books that are much bigger & heavier than what I ordered for less than that. :?

[Stu in Tokyo]

I've ordered a fair few things from overseas over the last 8 to 10 years... the shipping costs vary heaps. :(

Amazon seem to be able to ship a pile of books that are much bigger & heavier than what I ordered for less than that. :?

Well, I'm just taking a guess here, but I'd bet that a HUGE company like Amazon gets a real break on shipping from the post office and USP/FedEx etc, while Craig is a start up business run by his wife and himself out of their home, so they most likely do not get a great deal on the shipping.

I noticed that >> Craft Supply USA (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/New_Products___Easy_Rougher___easy_rougher?Args=) << has picked up this tool, so maybe you could cut the shipping costs by including the Ci1 Easy Rougher with some other kit for your addiction :D

Just a thought.

I'll be trying a big Natural Edge rough out soon, I'll be video taping it, so we can see how it works in that setting.

Cheers!

[Sawdust Maker]

Stu

how does it work on the inside of a (potential) bowl?

cheers

Nick

[Stu in Tokyo]

Stu

how does it work on the inside of a (potential) bowl?

cheers

Nick

For roughing it works fine, I was using the 4" radius insert on a 10" bowl, and it was good, I think that for my final cut, I'll still be using a bowl gouge.

I want to make it very clear to you all, I don't think this tool is magic, or the one and only tool you need, far from it, for me, right now, I find it a wonderful tool for roughing out a lot of blanks, with little fuss, almost no sharpening, and little fatigue, it really lives up to the name "Easy Rougher" IMHO.

Now, down the road, with more time on the tool, will I find other uses for it? Maybe, I don't know, but that is NOT why I bought it, I bought it to easily, and quickly rough out bowl blanks, and that, it does........ and does well.

Cheers!

[hughie]

Old Croc, Tea Lady

I think I will start another thread on tip tools so as not to hijack the thread.

heres the link
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=757634

[Cliff Rogers]

Old Croc, Tea Lady

I think I will start another thread on tip tools so as not to hijack the thread.
Can you put a link to it here?

[Stu in Tokyo]

Did some more videos.........

YouTube - Ci1 Easy Rougher Natural Edge Bowl Part 1/5

Part 1/5

I like to keep the parts below 7 minutes, or my computer chokes on the rendering (I know, I need a new computer).

This time out, a Natural Edge bowl.

Cheers!

[Cliff Rogers]

My order arrived today, certainly fast, 6 days including a weekend.

I have a tool holder that I got for $20 from McJings at the TWWW show that will hold them.
The tip of the tool holder is slightly wider but I can fix that on the grinder.

The chip deflector won't fit the McJing holder without a lot of grinding so I'll have to fiddle with that a bit.
I'll probly make a new bracket for it.

[Different]

Am I gonna be the only one who thinks those handles are hideous
Not only are they hideous but they look like something you might find in some kinky sex shop. No offense to those of you who dont remember what that is!

Ross

[woodwork wally]

i,m afraid i agree with Stuart,thats the best part........bob

Yes Stuart I bought 1 of Northwoods 2" roughing gouges and gave a final hone and took to a big rough chunk of wood and it was great :2tsup::2tsup:and then thought try a little bit and turned a pen to ready to sand :D:D Nah scraping aint turning :no:although in some cases there is a place for it Regards to all W W WALLY

[Sawdust Maker]

My order arrived today, ...



Well Cliff, we're all awaiting to see what you did and how you got on. We need to know how they held up and whether the McJing holder does the job or ... ?

[Cliff Rogers]

Sorry, hold your breath a bit longer.... I haven't even taken them out of the little plastic packet yet. :-

I already have a PM request for better photos & some measurements that I will get later tonight. :2tsup:

[Cliff Rogers]

I had a request by PM for some closer shots & some details about the cutting tips.

The only marking on them are the numbers 1 to 4 to mark the sides on 2 of them & one just has a dimple in one corner.

They measure 15mm across, 2.2mm thick & the hole is 6.4mm & countersunk.
The bevel angle is 60°.

[Grumpy John]

I went over to Sandvik today to try and source the square inserts locally. No luck, however they do have 15mm, 19mm, and 25mm square tips about 6mm thick with a 4mm hole through the middle. These tips have a 90 degree edge so they can be turned over and used both sides. They cost $19.76, $29.20 and $75.60 EACH respectively, this price probably does not include GST and can only be bought in packs of 10. These prices are for the SNMA style tips, the 25mm tips are not listed in the catalogue but they are available in Australia.

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/sandvik-coromant-usa/turning-external-internal-negative-t-max-p-inserts/35541-22042-_24.html

[Fredo]

Cliff,

Have you road tested them yet and are they a good thing? (on Stu's video they appear to work well)


Fredo :U

[Cliff Rogers]

Not yet, I have some nice fresh firewood that looks a bit too good to burn so I should whack a bit on the lathe & shred it. :rolleyes:

[Cliff Rogers]

Arrrr.... Sanvik.... GJ, you just reminded me, I scored a Sandvik Tungsten Carbide 449 Scraper blade for a 448 paint scraper.
I just went & dug it up.
It is a triangle bit, 23m along each side, about 1.7mm thick with a 5.5mm hole and a 60° bevel.
This division was taken over by Bahco.
This is the new version (http://www.redboxhardware.com.au/index.aspx?page=products&catid=8&scid=135&gid=1356) of what I have.
Another pic here (http://diytools.com/store/detail.asp?ProductModel=BAH449&ProductID=51577) and more info here (http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/SAN449).
It has got to be worth a try. :2tsup:

[TTIT]

Now thats a far more economical proposition! :2tsup: Do you reckon it's sharp and thick enough to do the job Cliff????

[Cliff Rogers]

It is certainly sharp enough, I'm not sure that the points won't be a bit brittle.
I haven't tried to fit it to any of my tool holders to see how much clearance there is on the flat sides, they are only 5mm from the side of the hole.

[Cliff Rogers]

Today I ground back the tip of the tool holder I got from McJing so I could fit the new Easywood tips to it.

Here are the pics.

I'll start a new thread about the piece I tested it on today & I'll link to it shortly.

Sorry about the focus on the bottom view. :rolleyes:

[Cliff Rogers]

The trial piece thread is here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?p=764678#post764678).

[Burnsy]

Seen these (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/9PCE-REPLACEMENT-INDEXABLE-CARBIDE-TIP-12MM-or-16MM_W0QQitemZ260256740788QQihZ016QQcategoryZ12578QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

[hughie]

Burnsy,

Hmm positive rake tips, they would bite real well. :o :U

[Cliff Rogers]

Are they sharpe?

The Easywood Rougher bits are sharp for cutting wood.

[Cliff Rogers]

Update to this thread.

Craig has seen my Tassie Oak Burl Platter thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?p=764678) & has offered me a complete tool & handle to review.

Very generous. :2tsup:

I have HEAPS of big wet hoop pine to rough out but I'll also dig through my stash & find something else dry & hard too.

I'll post a link here when I get it happening.

[hughie]

:U nice one Cliff :2tsup: :2tsup:

[rsser]

Good score.

(I made an offer to Victor to test the Vicmarc hollowing tool rest but he said someone called R. Raffan had already done so.)

[Sawdust Maker]

Update to this thread.

Craig has seen my Tassie Oak Burl Platter thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?p=764678) & has offered me a complete tool & handle to review.

Very generous. :2tsup:

I have HEAPS of big wet hoop pine to rough out but I'll also dig through my stash & find something else dry & hard too.

I'll post a link here when I get it happening.

Good one Cliff :2tsup:
Does that mean he thinks your handle might have some effect on the useability of the tool?
We'll await your further critique with interest

[Cliff Rogers]

He didn't say BUT... I'd say it was because I can't fit the chip deflector to my tool holder without some modifcations.

When you use this tool flat on the rest in a scraping action without the chip deflector, all the chips go straight up your nose. :D

When I switched over to my gouge, I could 'aim' the chips so they went over my sholder instead.

I also had problems with the chips bunching up on the head of the screw I used to hold it.

[hughie]

When you use this tool flat on the rest in a scraping action without the chip deflector, all the chips go straight up your nose. :D



I think under the circumstances, he offer a life time supply of tips. :U


then you could share em around............

[Sawdust Maker]

chuckle !

[SawDustSniffer]

my new carbide tipped 25mm gouge is a pain in the A%$#e to make , made it out of 25mm tube so a dust exstractor can suck from the end of the handle:2tsup: and braised a large fine grained carbide cutter to the flute , still grinding the flute angles ( with a dremmal :(()

[hughie]

, still grinding the flute angles ( with a dremmal :(()


Ooley dooley :o you sure gotta a lot of time on your hands. How many burrs have you gone through? :U

you need something like this

http://www.stonesculptorssupplies.com/New-site-pgs/Power-tools.html

see items 1228 to 1427B

[SawDustSniffer]

only using carbide tip because i cant source 25mm HSS tube , still looking , so easy to make with HSS
cut a length 2 &1/2 foot long ,45 deg one end ( the sharp end ) and cover with munro type sponge handle
, a vacume cleaner tube off the back of the handle and you have it ,
a "saw dust sniffin gouge "

[Cliff Rogers]

...
Craig has seen my Tassie Oak Burl Platter thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?p=764678) & has offered me a complete tool & handle to review.

Very generous. :2tsup:....

I picked it up from the post office yesterday. :)

Today I went scratching through the wood heap to find something serious to give it a good testing on.

I have a couple of pieces of local red hardwood.
I've no idea what it is other than it is bloody hard to split it with an axe radially, it just bounces off.
It will split with an axe it you line up the growth rings but it still takes several good hits to wedge the axe through it.
It doesn't have gum inclusions like stringy bark or bloodwood but it does make good fire wood.

I'll get some pics before I start & I'll start a new thread & put a link back here.

[Cliff Rogers]

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?p=812896#post812896

[hughie]

only using carbide tip because i cant source 25mm HSS tube , still looking , so easy to make with HSS




SawDustsniffer,

HSS tube, that'll be a challenge, its mainly made into bar. But if you get some and have it drilled out then hardened. Thats probably the only way to go, have a look at the Bohler site and check out Vanadis 60 thats part of thier HSS range

http://www.buau.com.au/english/b_2265.htm