Sharpening tools with sandpaper

[Mark Woodward]

I've read a few articles on the net about sharpening tools using consecutively finer grades of sandpaper ( up to 2000 grit ) attached to a smooth pane of glass with spray adhesive. It seems like a good way to get an edge. How does it compare with stones?
Does anybody have a favorite stone/ system?
Anybody have any thoughts on this glass idea?
Thanks,
Mark Woodward.

[Neil Ellis]

Hi Mark

The stone or stones you own will depend on the tools you wish to sharpen. Chisels and plane blades etc. will require different sharpening stones to turning and carving tools.

I take it that you are on a bit of a budget so my suggestion to you is to invest initially in a good double sided carborundum or similar bench stone which can be bought for just a few dollars from almost any hardware shop.

Abrasive grits on glass are not a real option and should only be considered as a last resort. To get the abrasives that will last the same length of time as a cheap bench stone would cost you literally thousands of dollars.

If this was a viable method of sharpening then all woodworkers would do it. I don't know of any who do and I'll bet if you talk to serious woodworkers they will almost all say it is the wrong way to go.

Save your pennies and eventually graduate from your cheapy to Japanese water-stones, Scotish Dalmore, Water of Ayer, Arkansas, etc. or a mixtire of all. You coukd also look at using jewelers rouge on felt buffing wheel for final buffing of tools.

Above all go and find some professional in your area who is willing to help by showing you how to use the stones. See if there is a woodies club in your area and seek out help there. Don't put too much faith in what most hardware shop people tell you as a good deal of them are just sales people who have no idea what stones to use or how to use them. There are some exceptoins but not many.

Hope this helps a little. Sharpening is probably the single most important thing you will ever learn in woodworking. Without sharp tools you are wasting your time playing the game.

Good luck with your choice of stones.
Neil Ellis http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

[Mark Woodward]

It's helps alot Neil. Maybe an Arkansas or Japanese waterstone, both of which I've heard good things about as well as your recommendation. I'll mainly be sharpening chisels, plane blades and the like( and the odd kitchen knife). Do you have a favorite out of the ones you suggested?
Mark

[This message has been edited by Mark Woodward (edited 17 August 1999).]

[Neil Ellis]

If the money allows it I would buy 2 Japanese Water Stones, 1 a course to medium grit and the other a fine grit.

I think they are now available in double sided stones incorporating both the course and fine grades.

Cheers
Neil http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

[soundman]

:D :D :D :D
Hmmm.


:D :D :D

[derekcohen]

Mark

Sharpening with sandpaper on glass ("Scary Sharp" as it is affectionately termed) is a common and viable method of sharpening blades. It is cheap to do - as long as you do so in the short term since the cost of sandpaper will mount and overtake other methods. It is less messy than most other methods - all you are left with is dust. However, unless you glue the sandpaper down, it will curll up and any curvature will dub the blade edge.

Like anything else, the SS method has pros and cons. Personally, I only use sandpaper for flattening the backs of blades or the soles of planes. I prefer waterstones. However I do see SS as a good method for novice sharpeners since the outlay is low (at this stage) and the results predictable (as long as it is glued down).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[soundman]

Hmmm :D :D

[jmk89]

Mark

You have opened up an area of ongoing debate among woodies where almost everyone has an opinion. Mine is that any system that works (ie gives sharp, accurate edges on a repeatable basis) for the user is fine and we can each choose our own system!!!

I have found the derivative of the Scary Sharp system that uses a WASP belt sander a cheap method that does not require much skill ( this is good for me as I don't have much!!!) and gets good, quick results. I use it for the first "major" grind/finish for a plane blade or chisel.

Look under Hints and Tips at their website - if you click through you will find an 8 page booklet on the subject:
http://www.piricdesign.com.au/

I combine it with using a relatively cheap oil stone for finishing a honing exercise and for touch ups using a very cheap honing jig and find that I am getting very good results on plane plades and chisels quite quickly for an outlay that doesn't make me feel that I have invested too much (but I haven't done detailed cost analysis!!!:D :D ).

I propose to create a final polishing belt for the WASP system by gluing chamois leather to an old belt and loading it up with a suitable polishing compound - I reckon this will complete this system for me.

But the bottom line is that any system is better than none when it comes to sharpening. Find one that suits you, that you like and that gets good repeatable results and stick to it and your edge tools will become better and easier to use and you will enjoy using them more and get better results in your work. If you don't get repeatable results that make you happy with any particular system, try another system. But if you are getting good repeatable results then why bother changing?

Cheers

Jeremy

[eddie the eagle]

Someone's a stirrer.

I wonder how long Neil's been posting under UBeaut.

Cheers,

eddie

[Gumby]

Someone's a stirrer.

I wonder how long Neil's been posting under UBeaut.



I wouldn't be waiting around for a reply from Mark either :D

[JDarvall]

I only use sandpaper for coarse cutting.....and for flatterning of waterstones when dry. The whole spray adhesive thing gives me the ####es though.....so I'd like to avoid having to change grits over etc....and replacing pieces of paper (cause they wear out pretty quick).

The advantage I feel in sandpaper is mostly in the size of area you can lap flat........ie...a long strip can be adhered to glass or whatever.....good for larger surfaces....also the other advantage is they don't dish on you.

waterstones will dish like crazy.......If you've got plenty of cash you don't want to stuff around get a couple of DMT type diamond stones...they'll never dish......or off the whole lot and just get by with a bench grinder (white wheel) and bufffing wheels. No stuffing around. (I think you'll find pro's lean towards that method more).

[Cliff Rogers]

Someone's a stirrer....
Yeah, Soundman. :cool: :p

[soundman]

Who me? :D :D :D

[keith53]

Hmmm :D :D

He's been lurking there wanting to say something..;)

[soundman]

Nah, I'll just wait a while & see what happens.:D :D :D

[jmk89]

OK Soundman, you got me (and Derek and Jake) - I didn't look at the dates of the earlier posts.

If your point is that nothing changes (except Neil's pseudonym), then you are right...the same old tragics (like me) say the same old things about sharpening....:D :D

(mutter mutter, I'm going to get him.....)

[soundman]

Snicker, snicker, chuckle:D :D :D :D .
I havn't checked if any of the posters to the old posts thread are here.:D

Point & laugh......HA ha .:) :D :) :D

[TassieKiwi]

:rolleyes:

[RETIRED]

Not Happy Jan.:( :( :(