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tea lady
14th July 2008, 06:02 PM
I've got these little saucers (What else? :rolleyes:) in Blackwood with sap wood on one side. There is worm holes in the sap wood which I would like to fill, either with clear epoxy or with sawdust filler in the epoxy as well. My question is ......which epoxy? Can it be done with the Techniglue epoxy or do you need casting resin? It will only be 5 mm thick max. At what thickness do you have start to worry about shrinkage and cracking? If I use the Techniglue does it dry clear?

Over to you brains trust.:D

endgrain
14th July 2008, 07:19 PM
have always been a wax man myself :) time consuming begorrah, but never had a come back in 30 years unlike the few times we've used an epoxy resin/ polyester. we always think of the poor bugger in 50 years who does the next resto.
depends if the holes go with the grain or agin' i suppose and how many/much.
cheers

TEEJAY
14th July 2008, 07:47 PM
I use 5 minute araldite - but maybe I am impatient. Hasn't disappointed me unlike liquid glass - major flop.

BobL
14th July 2008, 09:03 PM
Patience and "clear casting resin" is what I use on things like that.

dai sensei
14th July 2008, 09:16 PM
Patience and "clear casting resin" is what I use on things like that.

+1

You can also use CA, provided there are not too many holes. Pin holes, use medium, larger use the thick.

lubbing5cherubs
14th July 2008, 09:57 PM
I agree with Neil CA thick and if you want to decorate it then mix glitter or coffee or anything you like crushed stone and press it into it make a feature that my thoughts anyway take it or leave it
Toni

tea lady
14th July 2008, 11:24 PM
We must have fat worms here. Holes are maybe 4-5 mm round. When I turn the saucer they will probably end up like windows in the rim. Does CA dry clear? I also have some sawdust that I could mix in. Although I think making a feature might work better. The holes are in the pale sap wood, kinda going along the grain.:)
I kinda feel I might have a better chance of filling it properly with a more liquid resin. Air bubbles might have a chance to escape.:hmm

jmk89
14th July 2008, 11:43 PM
A neat trick from Matt's Basement Workshop (http://www.mattswoodshop.libsyn.com/) (video 5 on building a kid's bookcase) - put some medium CA in the gap/hole and when it is just going off, sand the surrounding wood. making sure to sand over the hole. The CA picks up the sanding dust and goes off opaque and almost matching the surrounding wood. If it is deep, fill first then use the CA trick.

DJ’s Timber
14th July 2008, 11:44 PM
Sounds like a job for a casting resin IMHO. You can get some Diggers Casting & Embedding Resin in a 500ml can from Bunnings for about $20, also don't forget to get some catalyst as well but you'll need to ask at the paint counter for the catalyst as it is normally kept behind the counter.

Harry72
14th July 2008, 11:49 PM
With epoxy or polyester resin 5mm in a hole will be fine you shouldnt get any cracking or visible shrinkage.
If you were to lay up a large area with a lot of surface area and 5mm+ thick you probably will get cracking if you use no matting/woving... definitely get some degree of shrinkage.

tea lady
15th July 2008, 12:11 AM
Sounds like a job for a casting resin IMHO. You can get some Diggers Casting & Embedding Resin in a 500ml can from Bunnings for about $20, also don't forget to get some catalyst as well but you'll need to ask at the paint counter for the catalyst as it is normally kept behind the counter.
OK. Off to Bunnings again tomorrow then. Was gazing at all the jars today and couldn't chose. (They had the catalyst just on the shelf. Maybe they had to man people getting home without it and coming back to the shop at mad at them.:rolleyes:) Will have to do lots of hole filling to use up the tin.:cool:

OGYT
15th July 2008, 01:52 AM
We must have fat worms here.

Naw. :no: Try 12-13mm holes... now those are fat worms! :2tsup::doh:

TTIT
15th July 2008, 09:17 AM
Naw. :no: Try 12-13mm holes... now those are fat worms! :2tsup::doh:Not everything is bigger in Texas Al - try 20-25mm worm holes :o If I could train the buggers I could save some hollowing work :;:U

OGYT
15th July 2008, 09:57 AM
If you ever get'em trained, Vern, I want a herd of 'em!!! :2thumbsup:

tea lady
15th July 2008, 10:10 AM
I got hole that big too. Just not in this bit o' wood. :D In fact maybe I'll need a bigger tin of resin.:p

Went to the museum with the kids last week. (Note to self- never go to museum in school holidays again. :gaah: ) They had a great display of insects and stuff. And a bit about what makes those HUGE holes in trees. They are made by moth lavea I think. Got a bit hurried along. Kids weren't interested.:rolleyes: (And they had tarantulas and stick insects and ants and ....and lots of stuff. Really worth a look.)

BobL
20th July 2008, 10:57 PM
Here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=28535) are a couple of pieces I did not fill the worm holes in.

RETIRED
24th July 2008, 08:00 AM
All mere tiny tots. Aren't you glad these don't eat timber? http://www.australianfauna.com/giantgippslandearthworm.php

Sawdust Maker
24th July 2008, 10:46 AM
I'm not sure anyone answered TL's question about whether techniglue dries clear?
I've never used it so am interested in the answer

endgrain
24th July 2008, 11:41 AM
I'm not sure anyone answered TL's question about whether techniglue dries clear?
I've never used it so am interested in the answer

There's a thread over here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/archive/index.php/t-22377.html)
With a link to specs (here (http://www.atlcomposites.com/pdf/tech_glue_R60.pdf))
Unbelievably there don't say the magic word anywhere but from memory (used to dabble in the glassing trade with surfboards) and please don't quote us, this resin in clear.
We used this mega expensive epoxy from brookvale supplier (round the corner from bennetts)
cheers

Sawdust Maker
24th July 2008, 05:45 PM
Thanks Endy

There was some useful advice in the thread, specifically about cleaning the spotty gum with acetone before I laminate it :2tsup:

I've just closely studied the techniglueCA tin, says "dries to a natural colour", whatever that is. I'll just have to mix a little up and see what colour it ends up when dry. ... natural colour:doh:

cheers

tea lady
24th July 2008, 06:14 PM
I've just closely studied the techniglueCA tin, says "dries to a natural colour", whatever that is. I'll just have to mix a little up and see what colour it ends up when dry. ... natural colour:doh:

cheers:U Awaiting the results. Yellowy clear might be alright. I wonder how easy it would be to get no bubbles though. Might still have to get the casting resin.:shrug.

salty72
29th July 2008, 05:08 PM
I have use a two part epoxy (Kenitex R104 with H125) to fill voids in burl and it dries very clear and very hard it is UV Resistant Oh and did I mention Hard, Won't shrink and for a 6ltr kit (4Resing + 2Hardner) its about $128AUD you can get it from FMS and most other fiberglass places (normally used on Surfboards)

Sawdust Maker
29th July 2008, 09:07 PM
Sorry
been too crook and bluudy miserable to play in the shed
will mix this weekend and take photo - even have camera lens back from repairer (insert phantom swear words here)

tea lady
29th July 2008, 11:04 PM
Hope your dice with sickness and repairers have not left you too weak, Sawdust.:rolleyes: I could just do a test couldn't I.:doh: I bought some 5 min epoxy the other day too. So tomorrow could hell or cold weather......


Watch this space.:D

Sawdust Maker
31st July 2008, 08:48 PM
This wasn't even Man Flu my (female) doctor told me so