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mikeyp
26th February 2004, 01:30 AM
I mentioned about this the other day to someone in the tools/machinery (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7548) forum and have finally got around to cropping and resizing my photos of this thing.

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 01:31 AM
Photo1

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 01:34 AM
View from under.

Note, my Ryobi router didn't fit the holes as given in the table saw so I made my own.

Batons glued and screwed to make table more rigid than just the 18mm MDF.

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 01:40 AM
My own made up fence on the cheap.
Just a piece of 50x50 angle aluminium with a piece of tassie oak screwed to it.

My runner is an extruded T shape piece of aluminium which I made using my dads vertical milling machine. The T piece has a female thread for the threaded knob.
The track was done with a 1/2" plunge router bit and several passes. A bit of sand paper to make it all fit nicely and run smooth (and some wax)
There are two such tracks running parallel, the only problem I have had is to slot the holes in the aluminium to handle different temperatures on different days. I made this in winter and this summer the aluminium was a bit longer and tighened things up a bit.

I got the trend clamps thinking they might make it easier to clamp - they don't hold all that well, probably more a design fault than the clamp.

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 01:44 AM
Initially I routed out the mitre gauge track to match the one in the table (as per the track on the right). The gauge supplied by Ryobi is quite loose and short so I recently routed it out a bit and modified it (left track)

I did this so I could make my own sheet cutting sled too - which I have done.

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 01:56 AM
Finally after hating the Ryobi supplied red metal table insert so much, I made up my own.

Here I have used two 19mmx19mm angle aluminium, one fastened to the table (see the four countersunk scews on top) and the other piece reversed to create a lip of depth 19mm (for a piece of 19mm think oak)

Note, the 19mm x 19mm angle was offcuts from what I used around the edges of the table - I just put a 3mm rebate around the table and screwed the angle from top and side.

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 02:06 AM
The insert was made using the table saw and that crappy red insert.
The most risky thing was that the minimum blade height is only about 5mm under the top so I had to lower the insert into position while running the table saw. I would not recommend this to anyone! If you do this, ensure you have a good grip on the insert (screw it to a larger piece)
I've done three inserts without any accidents. One, you see below, is the vertical insert. I made a 45 deg one and a 20-30 degree one. Both the 45 and 20-30 are made by placing them in the running table saw and the slowly adjusting the tilt on the blade to eat away under the insert.
For all inserts once they were seated, I screwed them down and ran the table saw rising it up and out through the insert a few times.

Rocker
26th February 2004, 08:26 AM
Mike,

It looks as though you have a second slot for a second T-piece at the outfeed side to the table. If that is the case, I imagine that it must be tricky to get the fence to slide sideways smoothly. I wonder whether the fence is clamped at both ends when in use. If not, I would guess that it would be hard to ensure that the fence remained parallel to the saw blade - particularly since you say that the clamping method of using a toggle clamp is rather ineffective. I am labouring the point since using a fence which is not parallel to the blade and not firmly clamped has the potential to cause a kick-back accident.

The usual way of making table inserts is to rout a groove for the saw blade rather than the risky method you describe of lowering it onto the spinning blade.

Rocker

mikeyp
26th February 2004, 02:19 PM
The fence moves quite smoothly if you hold it from the right hand side. As I mentioned, I had to slot the aluminium holes to allow for thermal expansion of the aluminium, this did make it harder to move on a hot day. The T pieces in the slots by themselves move very freely, even more so since I put some wax in them.

When in use it is clamped identically at both ends. There are also two rulers embedded in the table which gives pretty good alignment. I sometimes improve this by cutting a small sample from both sides to ensure perfect alignment. The problem with the clamps is that they bend, allowing the fence to bend way too much.

Initially I tried locking it from one side, I had two pins (broken Circuit Board Drill bits), one either side of the threaded knob. This was a bit inaccurate because the small movement in the T slide and the pins gives a reasonably large movement at the other end of the fence.

It really doesn't take that long to set up, and with the rulers in the table, all my cuts are to within under .5mm

Dust Maker
21st May 2004, 12:44 PM
I have hust been handed down the Saw but It needs Blade change and there are no spanners with it. Can anyone tell me the sizes of spanners? Any help is highly Appreciated

Thanks

Dust Maker

reac
23rd May 2004, 07:31 PM
Dust Maker: The spanners which came with my saw (which appears to be the same as mikeyp's) are 22 and 24 mm. HTH.

Dust Maker
23rd May 2004, 11:49 PM
Dust Maker: The spanners which came with my saw (which appears to be the same as mikeyp's) are 22 and 24 mm. HTH.


Thanks A lot mate

Dust Maker:)