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EX's Timber
31st Jul 2008, 12:52 AM
A Minwax Polyurethane Pen Finish Tutorial PDF that has been put together by Les (Les in Red Deer)

04/03/2011-Updated tutorial uploaded, see below.

Let Les know that it is appreciated :brava

Simomatra
31st Jul 2008, 09:03 AM
A wipe On Poly Tutorial PDF that has been put together by Les (Les in Red Deer)

Can be Down Loaded from here (http://www.ubeaut.biz/pics/wopt.pdf) :2tsup:

Let Les know that it is appreciated :bravaand Sam (simomatra) thanks for getting it to me for uploading :2tsup:

Cheers DJ

Many thanks Les well done.

salty72
1st Aug 2008, 11:35 AM
this appears to be a good method, Thanks for the file and thanks for sharing

switt775
1st Aug 2008, 11:46 AM
Yes thanks, lots of good information.

However the title is a bit misleading. It does not appear that "wipe-on poly" is being used, rather ordinary poly is being applied by "wiping it on". Wipe-on poly is a variation on polyurethane which has been thinned (somewhat similar to Danish oil, but not exactly the same). There are a couple of good threads on this forum regarding the commercial product from Minwax, and methods of mixing your own.

It is applied with a rag, then after a few minutes the excess is wiped off. As a result there is no danger of runs. The down side is that you need many more coats to build up the finish.

EX's Timber
1st Aug 2008, 02:48 PM
Les had PM me regarding the poor quality of the PDF that I had linked to, it looked like it had been photocopied or scanned and I agreed with him too.

Les has now emailed me the original PDF which is a 3mb file and it will be uploaded to the server sometime in the next 24 hrs or so, so please check back to download it.

Switt775, yes you're are correct, along the way somewhere someone has renamed the file but not anymore as I have the original file now and the correct name is Minwax Polyurethane Pen Finish Tutorial, so yes it is a completely difference kettle of fish

Simomatra
1st Aug 2008, 03:07 PM
Way to go DJ and Les Great tutorial

EX's Timber
3rd Aug 2008, 01:05 AM
Okay folks, now have the the original file from Les and is all intact with no loss of data or drop in quality from been scanned or photocopied this time.

Can be down loaded from this :aro-r: link :aro-l: (http://www.woodworkforums.com/video/MPPFT.pdf) :2tsup: or the one in post #1

Mike in Nanaimo
3rd Aug 2008, 04:35 AM
Good going Les!

Big Shed
3rd Aug 2008, 09:14 AM
Thanks Les and Sam:2tsup:

Sawdust Maker
11th Aug 2008, 11:03 PM
Thank you all:2tsup:

Bellsy
12th Aug 2008, 01:11 PM
Thanks for the useful post.:2tsup:

EX's Timber
10th Sep 2008, 12:05 AM
Ok Folks, Les has sent me an Updated PDF of which I have uploaded and it is now available from the first post above :2tsup:

Sebastiaan56
18th Sep 2008, 05:13 PM
Thanks Les, you're a bloody gem! looks simple enuff for me to do!

Sebastiaan

digger
19th Oct 2008, 10:08 AM
I have turned a pen in cocobolo and sanded it as per the totorial but the first coat hasn't dried after more than 48hrs probably due to oily nature of the timber.

The explanation link above mentions using french polish of sorts but i am not clear on how/what/where to get it or what form it is.

Does anyone have any further experinces to help out?

This is my first time using Minwax.

cheers

Simomatra
19th Oct 2008, 10:28 AM
I have turned a pen in cocobolo and sanded it as per the totorial but the first coat hasn't dried after more than 48hrs probably due to oily nature of the timber.

The explanation link above mentions using french polish of sorts but i am not clear on how/what/where to get it or what form it is.

Does anyone have any further experinces to help out?

This is my first time using Minwax.

cheers

Hi Digger

Cocobola is an oily timber and as such needs to be sealed before the WOP can be used. I have used DNA or acetone to wipe the blank clean of any oil then seal with thin CA. After it is sealed then 4 coats of poly as per the tutorial. Any timber that is oily will have this problem.

digger
19th Oct 2008, 02:40 PM
Hi Digger

Cocobola is an oily timber and as such needs to be sealed before the WOP can be used. I have used DNA or acetone to wipe the blank clean of any oil then seal with thin CA. After it is sealed then 4 coats of poly as per the tutorial. Any timber that is oily will have this problem.

I will give this a try.....

could any sanding sealer be used instead?

thanks mate

Simomatra
19th Oct 2008, 06:26 PM
I will give this a try.....

could any sanding sealer be used instead?

thanks mate

Yes digger I have used sanding sealer just give it time to dry fully before using the WOP or as I saw it called earlier on another forum Quote " I've never heard of an Italian finish" End Quote

WoodWriteOz
20th Oct 2008, 07:11 PM
G'Day...tried several times to download the tutorial without success..the message states that 'not avaialble on Internet Explorer'...could well be me as I am no where near a wizard on this sort of thing... Chuditch:C

dj_pnevans
1st Nov 2008, 04:58 PM
I live in Perth (Port Kennedy) and have looked around at the local hardware shop and I am unable to find any Minwax, can anyone tell me where I can buy it from.
David

WoodWriteOz
1st Nov 2008, 06:52 PM
G'day...I live in Busselton...tried Bunnings but no joy...will keep looking!!;;

rhossack
2nd Nov 2008, 12:23 AM
I have turned a pen in cocobolo and sanded it as per the totorial but the first coat hasn't dried after more than 48hrs probably due to oily nature of the timber.
Does anyone have any further experinces to help out?
I'm sure you'll get a lot better advice than what I can offer but this is what I do for oil woods.

I give the wood what I call an alcohol bath.

Take your cocobolo blanks and dunk them in a container (I use a small juice can) of denatured solvent alcohol. (I use the 90% type).

Let them sit in the DNA for an hour. You'll see the DNA change colors as the resin is pulled from the wood.

Remove the blank and replace the DNA with a fresh batch and rinse.

Let dry overnight or if in a rush use accelerator to dry the surface.

You'll notice the wood will be much lighter in weight and color, as much of the resin has now been removed.

Now you can apply the finish of your choice.

aak
16th Dec 2008, 08:24 PM
Hi,

Being a newby, I read just about everithing on the forum, especially posts that relates to woodturning in general and pen turning which I would like to get into.

Thank you Les for the tutorials. It is really great help for people like me who are totally new to woodturning. There is something I just can't get despite reading and re-reading your step by step instructions. So, if my question is really stupid, apologies in advance.

Here is the info from your tutorial and then the question:

"Required Materials........Various grits of sand paper 400 through 1200
Micro Mesh 1500 through 12,000"

"Step 3. With the lathe running, start sanding with 400 grit through to 1200 grit stopping the lathe
to sand the length of the blank between each grit to remove any sanding rings. As I am sanding I
use my Micrometer sized for the kit fittings and keep checking the blank diameter until I have
sanded down to about a 1 000ths of an inch proud of the required pen kit fitting diameters.

Step 4.With the lathe running I continue sanding from 1500 down to 12,000 usingMicro Mesh
without stopping to sand between grits.
Once I am happy that the blank is sanded down to the correct diameter to match the pen kit fittings
and I have a nice smooth void free finish, I wipe the blank down with a tack cloth to remove any
dust."

I assumed your sanding in step 3 were done by ANSI or CAMI USA grits and in step 4 you state that you used the Micro-Mesh 1500 to 12000 grits.

It is my understanding that the Micro-Mesh 1500 grit is the equivalent/same as the ANSI or CAMI USA 400 grit. Also, the Micro-Mesh 3600 grit is the same as the ANSI or CAMI USA 1200 grit.

Now here is the bit I do not get: why do you start sanding again in step 4 with Micro-Mesh 1500 which is a much coarser grit and undo the sanding quality of the ANSI or CAMI USA 1200 you finished with in step 3? I would have expected you to continue sanding in step 4 with Micro-Mesh 3600 which would be the next finer grit.

Again, apologies if my question is really stupid?
Regards
Andy

aak
16th Dec 2008, 08:44 PM
I noticed a few of you could not find MINWAX and was asking where to get it from. I was also looking to buy some and went to our local Bunnings store as the first place to try. I was told by two "helpers" that they do not have it, never even heard of it. One of them even checked their computer then called someone from headoffice. When I found MINWAX on their shelves they were astounded. The lesson in this for me and you, do not ask them just look for it!

Here they have the High Gloss, the Satin and some reviver/cleaner. I have read the instructions on the can of the reviver/cleaner, but decided I do not it this time and put it back. I would suspect that if MINWAX products are available here then they could also be bought at your place at least on special order from your Bunnings store.

Regards
Andy

wm460
7th Feb 2009, 06:38 PM
Where about is Minwax available from.?

DNA is this methylated spirits?

Big Shed
4th Mar 2011, 01:33 PM
Les has sent me an updated tutorial, it can be downloaded here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/minwax-polyurethane-pen-finish-tutorial-76543/).