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TheWesternCanuk
17th August 2008, 02:12 PM
Hello all, i've been working on setting my depth of cut for a few days now. I know that seems long but here is my problem. The best i can do is have the face of the joint loose and the back of the joint tight. Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this problem. I'm thinking it might be some kind of vibration or something? i'm using the best bits i can buy. I'm following the instruction video and using the same materials as the in the first blind dove vid. Also i have a porter cable router with a top speed of 23500. Can someone recommend a speed to be cutting at. does this vary or top speed all the time. thanx all

NCArcher
17th August 2008, 11:00 PM
I'm not too sure what you mean by the face and back of the joint. Do you mean the pins are not parrallel? If that is the case i would suggest that the workpieces are moving during the cut. Make sure they are clamped securely to the right angle fixture.
Also make sure the right angle piece is adjusted so that it can slide freely but not move from 90 deg to the fence. Tighten the teflon crews until the RA piece can't move then back the screws off very slightly so that it can slide. Top speed should be ok.for dovetail bits.

TheWesternCanuk
18th August 2008, 02:43 AM
Thanx for the info. what i mean about the pin boards is.. at the start of the cut they are just a fraction wider then at the end of the cut. i'm using the same clamping system as in the instruction video.

Can you tell me what you use for a router base? i'm using a product purchased from leeValley here is calgary. The base came with a slight curve to it to account for router weight over time. Does that sound right? at least thats what they are telling me.

damian
18th August 2008, 09:02 AM
That could be contributing to your problem. If your work is rising and falling as you slide it over the router your going to get a drift in the cut.

Router tables should be flat, as flat as possible. If they bow the insert to accomodate router weight the insert in underengineered. This is why my incra insert is solid cast 3/8 inch aluminium. No sag.

DJ’s Timber
18th August 2008, 10:24 AM
I'd be looking at the router plate, I noticed on mine that the insert rings don't quite sit perfectly true with the surface which also has the slightest bow as yours has and it does cause a problem with the work rising and dropping back. Will be replacing it with a new aluminium plate in the very near future, either an Incra or Woodpecker plate.

Groggy
18th August 2008, 10:27 AM
I'd be looking at the router plate, I noticed on mine that the insert rings don't quite sit perfectly true with the surface which also has the slightest bow as yours has and it does cause a problem with the work rising and dropping back. An unloaded phenolic plate is designed to have a slight crown so that when a router is fitted the plate will settle in a level plane. Not sure if this is what you are seeing?

damian
18th August 2008, 10:33 AM
I'll be selling an incra al plate at some point. Owes me $128, bough it on special in the US for (I think) $75 when the $ was 95c, the rest was shipping. Now I've bought the table saw I won't need it anymore. Just an option if your looking to buy...

A curved plate is a curved plate. Not good.

DJ’s Timber
18th August 2008, 10:38 AM
An unloaded phenolic plate is designed to have a slight crown so that when a router is fitted the plate will settle in a level plane. Not sure if this is what you are seeing?

I realise that it is designed that way Groggy but if after the router is fitted and it still has a crown, what do you do then :dunno: plus the fact the the 2 piece ring set that sit in it has a slight step as well is annoying, especially when the timber catches when you're feeding it in :doh:

Groggy
18th August 2008, 10:44 AM
I realise that it is designed that way Groggy but if after the router is fitted and it still has a crown, what do you do then :dunno: plus the fact the the 2 piece ring set that sit in it has a slight step as well is annoying, especially when the timber catches when you're feeding it in :doh:Didn't mean to tell you to suck eggs DJ :rolleyes:.

This is my old unit? It didn't have those issues previously and sat very flat. Unless there is dust or a deformation of the plastic lip there somewhere I can't see why it would have changed :shrug:

DJ’s Timber
18th August 2008, 10:50 AM
Didn't mean to tell you to suck eggs DJ :rolleyes:.

This is my old unit? It didn't have those issues previously and sat very flat. Unless there is dust or a deformation of the plastic lip there somewhere I can't see why it would have changed :shrug:

None taken :U

Yes it is your old unit I'm talking about, maybe your router was a bit heavier, might have been that fact that yours had three screwholes rather than four or the fact that it now has two extra sets of holes in it since it has come into my hands :roll: which may have buggered it up.

TheWesternCanuk
19th August 2008, 08:51 AM
all excel suggestions guys thanx, i've now found a spot on my setup that is consistant and now have made a few very nice dove tails. I will take your advice and look into an incra setup for my router. I'm sure in the long run it will save tons of time. thanks everyone for the quick responses. All the best everyone.

damian
19th August 2008, 06:40 PM
Just get any of the heavy duty inserts, preferably 3/8 thick and aluminium. Whichever is cheap. I ahve to say though the magnalok plate is wonderful. It's going to kill me to sell it.