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Wooden Ewe?
28th August 2008, 06:39 PM
Hi all, I have just completed my first attempt at an inlaid dovetail on some 'scrap' I had using my Leigh Super Jig. The inlay is Mahogany and the sides are Silky Oak. I downloaded the instructions from the Leigh website and just followed them through step by step and this is the result. However, I had previously set up my jig accurately for Through Dovetails and I feel that this is a good idea to understand the basics of standard joints before attempting these little beauties.
The hardest part was clampling and glueing the inlaid piece in well enough so that it didn't 'chip out' when I routed back through it after it had dried.
The most important part was getting material sizes machined exactly right including the two shims required.
The best bit was the finished result. It certainly gets the heads scratching- "How did you get that dark bit of timber in there???"

Cheers, Matt

BozInOz
28th August 2008, 06:51 PM
Very nice. Neat and tidy.
Which brand router bits did you use?

Wooden Ewe?
28th August 2008, 07:00 PM
I used two of the three standard Leigh bits that came with the jig. I used a Makita 3612c (variable speed) half inch router with the 8mm collet reducer which also came with the jig.

munruben
29th August 2008, 12:03 AM
Good work, looks great. You must be pleased with that effort.:2tsup:

lesmeyer
31st August 2008, 01:00 AM
Hi Matt,
what is the thickness of the inlay?
Regards
Les

Wooden Ewe?
31st August 2008, 11:30 AM
Hi Les,
The tail and pin boards are 16mm and the inlay board is 19mm thus making the inlay 3mm. It is vitally important that the thickness of the two shims used in the machining process is exactly the diffence between the pin/tail board thickness and the inlay board thickness.

i.e. For a desired 4mm inlay thickness:

-Pin and Tail Boards would be 12mm thick
-Inlay Boards would be 16mm thick
-The two shims used would be 4mm thick

Instructions can be downloaded from the Leigh site and I am happy to answer any other questions you might have.

Cheers, Matt

lesmeyer
31st August 2008, 01:02 PM
Thanks Matt.
I have the document. It was more my curiosity of what thickness of inlay would be pleasing to the eye.
Did you use the 1.15 factor for the thickness of the shims?
Regards
Les

Wooden Ewe?
31st August 2008, 01:18 PM
Yes I used the 1.15 factor. I don't think it would work unless you did. I have just had a go at making a box where the dovetail at the top of the sides is 4mm wider than the rest to allow for the 4mm kerf of the table saw blade when I cut the lid off. In order to do this I set the jig as if I was doing an asymmetrical joint. I.e. setting up both ends of the jig with a mirrored set up (using vernier calipers to match the distances between the guide fingers at each end. But it didn’t work. It was close, but not good enough. I think that perhaps in my initial set up of the jig out of the box, I may have set the right and left side stops on the vertical face of the jig incorrectly?? Back to the drawing board with this one!!

AUSSIE
31st August 2008, 01:27 PM
OH Looks like I had better start saving.
I am a beginner at woodwork ,but like accurate things
Thanks
Now I have to talk to the
Minister For War And Finances again.:no::~

Wooden Ewe?
31st August 2008, 01:59 PM
Aussie, I found that the Leigh Jig was great value. It does everything I want it to do straight out of the box!! The instructions are brilliant and the jig is of very good quility and after intial set up, it's simple to use. The three cutters supplied do a whole range of joints and you are only limited to the max and minimum thickness of timber you can use with the supplied bits. However, addition bit sets are available as are extra templates which allow you to do much more intricate work on thinner timber. I use mine all the time. Once the timber is machined to size, I can cut the box joints in all for sides in around 8 minutes. Quick, convenient and repeatable!!

Wooden Ewe?
31st August 2008, 02:19 PM
Here is the test piece for the asymetric setup.4mm wider dovetail on the right hand side. The inlay section is not even on both sides?? Any help...

GraemeCook
31st August 2008, 02:34 PM
Spectacular, Matt, well done. My scrap never looks as good as that !

Cheers

Graeme

AUSSIE
31st August 2008, 02:57 PM
Here is the test piece for the asymetric setup.4mm wider dovetail on the right hand side. The inlay section is not even on both sides?? Any help...
Hey Matt.
I recognise that type of timber mate.
Your not in the box challenge with that thing are you?:o:o:~:doh::doh::doh::C:C:C

Wooden Ewe?
31st August 2008, 03:12 PM
perhaps.........:D

AUSSIE
31st August 2008, 08:14 PM
perhaps.........:D
Pheew:doh:
I checked the list for the box challenge.
Your not on it.What a shame.:brava::clap2::yippee:

I still have a chance.:2tsup:

blockhed
31st August 2008, 10:24 PM
Lovely work indeed Wooden Ewe!
I haven't used my Leigh D4R as yet, but will have to in about 8 weeks time when i start on my kitchen cupboards. new tools always see me a little tentative first up.
i'll be using an Makita 3600BR router that came with a half inch template guide.
can i use the Makita template guide instead of the Leigh 8mm guide and cutters?
half inch cutters are more plentiful than the 8mm(seven sixteenth) cutters that came with the jig.
regards
the block
:U

Cruzi
31st August 2008, 10:32 PM
Leigh Jigs are designed to work with mainly 7/16" guides or for some larger bits you use the 5/8"guide, using 1/2" guide will only lead to problems.

Wooden Ewe?
31st August 2008, 10:50 PM
Hi Blockhed,
My jig is a Super Jig and came with the 7/16 OD "e-bush" which can be adjusted in .001" increments for box joint fit. The supplied 80-8 dovetail cutter can be used for a depth of cut ranging from ½”-13/16”. Once you get above this depth you need to use a 5/8’’ OD Guidebush and use ½’’ cutters. Provided the angle of your dovetail bits is 8 degrees then you can use any ½’’ bits with a 5/8’’ Guide Bush. It is the angle and the depth of cut of the bit that is important, not the shank diameter. Keep in mind though, that the length of the shank is important. (has to get through the guidebush, down past the guide fingers and then down to the desired depth of cut.) all while still having a safe amount of shank held tightly in the collet.

Cheers, Matt

blockhed
1st September 2008, 10:40 PM
Thanks for the replies guys!
it has saved me a fair bit of time (and mistakes) knowing this info.
i can't wait to be using the Leigh Jig, many members on the forum have posted some great looking jobs like yours Wooden Ewe.
regards
the block
:2tsup:

ciscokid
2nd September 2008, 09:25 PM
Very nicely done. I've owned a Leigh D4 for a couple of years now and I've read through the section on in-laid joints several times. Never worked up the courage to give it a go. Looking at your finished product just may give me the push I needed.

Yeldarb
2nd September 2008, 09:57 PM
Bloody lovely :2tsup:

NGX
2nd October 2008, 06:50 PM
Very nice work I love it !!! will be good to see some more images and a dab of shellac them inlays will just glow...

Top marks..

Sawdust Maker
2nd October 2008, 09:47 PM
Shouldn't have looked at this thread :doh:
Now I want one of those Leigh jig thingys :o

wonder if SWMBO would notice if I slipped one onto the credit card ... along with ....