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WillBrook
30th August 2008, 09:54 AM
Just wondering if anyone could give me a few tips in regards to using epoxy to fill cavities in large slabs of timber, e.g. preparation, application and finishing (type).

Different
30th August 2008, 03:32 PM
Sam Maloofs book has some good ideas like carving cutting etc pieces of the same timber then forcing into the voids you are trying to fill rather that a great blob of Epoxy . I have done this often and I feel it is a better solution.

Ross

dai sensei
30th August 2008, 05:58 PM
I use Diggers Clear Casting Resin rather than epoxy as i do a lot of clear work and epoxy can go yellow or milky. If you intend using pigment to get a black or coloured finish you can use either. There are many pigments for both. I cover the bottom side with gaffa tape where the crack/hole penetrates to seal it (it only takes a pin hole), then just pour the resin in, in around 10-15mm layers. Eventually, overfill the crack/hole and then once cured plane/sand/oil/paint etc like you would the timber surface.

BazzaDLB
30th August 2008, 08:31 PM
Hi Neil,
Just a quick query - How do you measure out the catalyst for small amounts of resin?

Am at a loss to judge a poofteenth amount.

Many thanks

weisyboy
30th August 2008, 08:35 PM
i like to use polyester resin. if yuo are using pigments you can thicken it with pine saw dust without any problems.

as for mesuring go to the kemist you can get droppers and syringes and little bitsy mesuring containers.

BazzaDLB
30th August 2008, 08:46 PM
i like to use polyester resin. if yuo are using pigments you can thicken it with pine saw dust without any problems.

as for mesuring go to the kemist you can get droppers and syringes and little bitsy mesuring containers.

Thanks Carl,
That makes sense - will get some and give it a try!!

BobL
30th August 2008, 09:44 PM
Measuring cylinders and syringes get all sticky after a while and as I usually mix the resin in those rectangular plastic containers that nails/nuts/bolts come in, when I'm finished I just dump the left over resin and plastic packet and all. I usually weigh out the resin using SWMBO digital kitchen scales but they are only good to 1g.

What I have been meaning to get for a while is using one of those pocket balances (the ones used by jewelers and dealers :oo:) they can weigh 0.01g up to 200g, or 0.1g up to 500g, and cost about $10.

dai sensei
31st August 2008, 07:30 PM
I must admit I don't measure the catylist that accurately. I tend to heat the resin so it thins out and fills every last little crack. It therefore only takes a few drips of catylist for small quantities, if any at all to go off. If the surface is still sticky after a day, I obviously used too little catylist, but then I just burn off the sticky residue with a small flame and wait another day.

By the way, this stuff does go off on its own with time. Many times I've gone to use some more from the tin to find it has turned hard or rubbery. When you buy a tin, check its mixing date and try and take the tin with the latest date. I bought some today at Bunnies and the tines varied from June07 to July08.

WillBrook
31st August 2008, 09:10 PM
Thanks folks

haosiliu235
26th September 2008, 11:40 PM
i had just visited a designer handmade furniture store, one thing they did was put pieces of gum leaves, seed pod etc in the epoxy fillings. When it set the finished clear epoxy displayed a very unique feature on the slab table:U