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View Full Version : Difference between MC1100A and MC1100B



madcraft
11th Sep 2008, 08:47 PM
Hi Guys

am I missing something but I can't see why there should be a $170 difference when there seems to be no difference that I can see:?

the two I was looking at were

Timbecon (http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/woodlathes-375_0.aspx)
MC1100B

and

Carbatec (http://www.carbatec.com.au/woodturning-tools/lathes-accessories/carba-tec-11m-bed-wood-lathe)
MC1100A

Surely it couldn't just be the brand name ?

Cheers
Glenn

Big Shed
11th Sep 2008, 09:24 PM
Other than the spindle thread and size there doesn't seem any difference, does there?

Maybe orange paint is more expensive?:D

woodwork wally
11th Sep 2008, 09:31 PM
G'day I am not 100% sure on the timberconlatest spec but they were a 1 hp. motor and the Carbatec is listed as 1 1/2 hp which is a decided advantage if using a bowl saver . also in the models 2 years ago there were motors of same power and some had quite effective cooling finned motors:2tsup: and others had plain bodies and these did not seem to last as well:no: as the finned motors. Now that I have muddied the waters considerably I will add more:D . I have no axe to grind but it took a case at small claims tribunal before a friend finally got a problem solved and a 12 month saga that resulted in a loss of cash in Victoria disposing of what became a second lathe:no: [they are W.A. ] But the other crew can be pretty poor too from my experience [3 months waiting for a cash up front order of a vaccuum chuck]:~:~but you have a state branch and you can lean a lot harder .So Glenn the choice is yours . and dont forget freight from W.A. My mc1100 came from WMS in Melbourne Cheers WW.Wally

switt775
11th Sep 2008, 09:35 PM
And as a bonus, Timbecon will undoubtly charge more for delivery. Plus the advantage of no local service... :rolleyes:

Sounds like a really tough choice.

woodwork wally
11th Sep 2008, 09:53 PM
Well I finally got into t.c. site and motor power is the same so now waters are real muddy so you should shop around and see what figures some of the smaller dealers come up with A classic example of my own . I was selling a sharpening jig common to both the companies you referred to for $29.00 when they were both $49.00 and the instruction sheets were identical and the product likewise I was making $8.00 on them They both buy bigger than me Cheers again WW.Wally

thefixer
11th Sep 2008, 10:45 PM
Orange paint is a lot dearer than white paint. Geez, I thought everyone new that:D:D

Cheers
Shorty

thefixer
11th Sep 2008, 10:48 PM
Bugger!!! I didn't realise Big Shed got in before me:((:((

Cheers
Shorty

thefixer
11th Sep 2008, 10:54 PM
Actually, on closer inspection there is a physical external difference in the headstock. And an outer difference usually means that the internals are different. Except with motor cars of course:rolleyes:. Why have an "A" model and a "B" model if they are the same?

Cheers
Shorty

madcraft
12th Sep 2008, 12:15 AM
Actually, on closer inspection there is a physical external difference in the headstock. And an outer difference usually means that the internals are different. Except with motor cars of course:rolleyes:. Why have an "A" model and a "B" model if they are the same?

Cheers
Shorty

Hi Shorty

Thats what I thought

But the basic specs are still identical
I found the chinese exporter{ one of them } and compared the specs
MC1100A (http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/henrytian/product-detailiqymJAYlunUM/China-Wood-Lathe-MC1100A-.html)

MC1100B (http://www.shootmachine.com/sdp/44601/4/pd-12332/1421531-1555069.html)

and then to really confuse me I find a Generic MC1100 (http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/henrytian/product-detailVEnQzSRCJmBN/China-Wood-Lathe-MC1100-.html)
this one must be old because it only has the 3/4HP motor

The only real difference I can see is where the motor is situated { Side for the A and Back for the B }

I emailed TC and Carba to see if they could give me an answer


Still confused
Cheers

hughie
12th Sep 2008, 01:14 PM
Ooley Dooley the clones now have sub clones.......maybe I need to get out more


Try Hare & Forbes, north Parramatta

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/WoodLathes2

rsser
12th Sep 2008, 02:49 PM
Sigh. What's in a name?

Even units with the same name will vary.

The Chinese makers are just assemblers; they'll source the bits from whoever is cheapest and quickest. Can be just cents in it.

This has been hashed over before.

It's a lottery.

Go with whoever provides the best after sales service and warranty follow-up. IMO that will normally be the smaller guy or a solid local franchisee of a chain.

Mulgabill
12th Sep 2008, 03:46 PM
I agree with rsser. Buy locally as possible from reputable dealers, Check warranty conditions etc. for any possible return of goods under a warranty claim. It may be a shock if you buy locally only to find you have to ship (at your expense) interstate.

bowl-basher
12th Sep 2008, 05:13 PM
:banghead:have a talk to the guys at GASWELD coffs harbour they have a generic version and good back up/ after sales service if you are interested in contacting them PM me and I will give you a contact name:cool:

woodwork wally
15th Sep 2008, 10:19 PM
That 3/4 hp. one is an unusual because most 1100 were 750 watts or 1 hp and the 900 were 3/4 hp. it would look as though it was done to lower the price .:( NOT GOOD NEWS :no::no:as with the speed change system sopping up power the way it does you really need all the power you can get to avoid motor overhauls and start cap overloads etc. " Leave that bugger-be :oo:" My 750 watt is still origional but the start capacitor has been replaced with a far more robust one of similar electrical values about 12 months ago and all is well although it is slow using the bowl saver but I dont believe in stalling the lathe:no: . enough from me I think the advice of shopping local is best:2tsup::) Regards WW.Wally

madcraft
16th Sep 2008, 12:40 AM
as with the speed change system sopping up power the way it does you really need all the power you can get to avoid motor overhauls and start cap overloads etc.

Hi Wally

What exactly do you mean here ? does it stall due to power drain from the manual variable speed ?:?

Should I be looking at something different

like carbatec mc1100A (http://www.carbatec.com.au/woodturning-tools/lathes-accessories/carba-tec-11m-bed-wood-lathe) or Carbatec w38 clone (http://www.carbatec.com.au/woodturning-tools/lathes-accessories/carba-tec-electronic-vs-wood-lathe) or H and F W38 Clone (http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=W388#)

or does somebody have a recommendation , Budget limited to around $1000

Cheers
Glenn

Jim Carroll
16th Sep 2008, 09:41 AM
For my 2 bobs worth save your pennies and buy a decent lathe.

All of these types of lathes have the 2 same problems.
They run on pony power not horse power and the mechanics of them have no low down torque as the belt slip is horrendouse {is that spelling right}

They are designed as spindle turning lathes as the more speed you have the more torque is available. When bowl turning you are not able to get a low enough speed and torque to do the job properly so you have to comprimise. As wally indicated the low end does not enough grunt to keep going so you have to take things even more slowly.

There is a lot of them out there and they do the job that most guys want but at a comprrimise.But once they have tried a proper lathe they never want to go back.

As Tim says More Power More Power

madcraft
16th Sep 2008, 10:32 AM
For my 2 bobs worth save your pennies and buy a decent lathe.

All of these types of lathes have the 2 same problems.
They run on pony power not horse power and the mechanics of them have no low down torque as the belt slip is horrendous {is that spelling right}

They are designed as spindle turning lathes as the more speed you have the more torque is available. When bowl turning you are not able to get a low enough speed and torque to do the job properly so you have to comprimise. As wally indicated the low end does not enough grunt to keep going so you have to take things even more slowly.

There is a lot of them out there and they do the job that most guys want but at a compromise.But once they have tried a proper lathe they never want to go back.

As Tim says More Power More Power

Hi Jim
thanks for clarifying that

Where you say "Decent Lathe " Do you have a recommendationI mainly do bowls boxes and platters upto 300 { what my existing lathe can do but want to do bigger } would prefer Variable speed but doesn't have to be EVS but SWMBO isn;t going to let me spend $5k on a vicmarc 300 maybe I could get to $1k to $2K but that about it

Sould I be looking at something like

Nova (http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_product_details?category_id=1107144884&product_id=1107452285) { does it have Variable speed? }

Vicmarc vl 100's (http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=1107146804) { not sure of motor size 3/4 HP seems a bit gutless }

Cheers for the help
Glenn

Jim Carroll
16th Sep 2008, 06:25 PM
Anything under 2k will be 6 or 8 speed belt change.
3k and upwards will get you into Electronic Variable Speed.

The mechanical variable speed lathes are a claytons variable speed in that they allow you to change speed while it is running but in dedicated steps as there is indents on the heads for the pin to locate in so not really a proper variable speed as you are not allowed to pick the speed you want.
They still have the same problem as a normal belt change in that the lower speed is always too slow for what you are doing and the next step up is too fast and you want it somewhere in between and it does not allow this. Always a comprimise.

Time to turn on the charm and see how far the good lady will let you go.

Remember buy once and keep for a very long time or buy cheap and then try to convince her that you made a mistake and should have bought the better one the first time:C it is hard work the second time round.