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jboats
25th September 2008, 03:26 PM
I have just gotten started on building the GIS. I will attempt to keep my progress updated on a blog: www.fessendenboat.blogspot.com (http://www.fessendenboat.blogspot.com/). I am a novice at both building and blogging - so it should be interesting.

I am excited about building this great boat. I appreciate the information and sharing of advice in this forum - I can only hope that my build turns out as well as the launches I have seen through this website!

Cheers,
Jamie

Boatmik
25th September 2008, 07:22 PM
Jamie ... now California ... wonder how many States are left!

Good luck and keep us informed. Often you can simply paste a blog view straight into the forums here depending on the formats.

MIK

jboats
26th September 2008, 02:47 AM
Thanks MIK... I might add that you are welcome to use any pictures, etc I have for your documentation - either as "how-to" or "how-not-to" - and if you need me to capture anything specifically during the build process, please don't hesitate to let me know.

arbordg
26th September 2008, 05:28 AM
Mik & Jamie -

There's another California fellow I'm in contact with over at WBF, Bob W from Sacramento. He's mid-build, and is hoping to have his done in time for the Big Lagoon messabout in Humboldt County (northern california coast) next May. I'm also intending to attend.

Jamie, maybe you'll have yours done by then also, and we could make it 3 GIS's at one event. Mik, has there even been three sail together anywhere? Two? Maybe we'll be in line for a World Record, eh? :rolleyes:

Jamie, even if you aren't done, you might consider attending, just to get a ride in one.

http://www.luckhardt.com/blmessabout.html

http://www.luckhardt.com/bl_messabout08.html <--- photos of this years event



"Every decent man is ashamed of the government he lives under" -- H.L. Mencken

jboats
26th September 2008, 06:35 AM
Thanks for the info - I sure hope to have her done by next Spring! My wife went to school at Humboldt St - this would be a good excuse for a trip back.

jboats
26th September 2008, 06:37 AM
I have been lurking a bit at WBF - I will post my build info there as well, once I am a bit further along and have more to share.

Boatmik
26th September 2008, 09:10 AM
Actually,

When Jamie mentioned his goat island skiff building blog (http://www.fessendenboat.blogspot.com/) I went ... oh yeah ... another blog ... but it is really rather a nice bit of writing.

He had a shot at getting one of the Lumber Yard Skiffs from Woodenboat Magazine underway first.

His experience was in line with my confustification about why that particular boat would be offered as a first "free plan" for someone to build. If you lived in a boatshed by the water it would make some sort of sense but a Rowboat that cannot be handled by two people on shore without a trailer or a jinker seems strange and the building of something that looks simple may not be as simple as expected by a first time builder with no reference points.

Really impressed that Jamie picked himself up and dusted himself off ...

This is true of ALL boats in a way. The test, I think, is when lots of people build the same design that they tend to have different problems during the building.

ie their problems don't match up.

If their problems match up - builders have the same problem - then there is something wrong with the plan.

Actually it is one of the really interesting things about plans. One person will build and say the build went fine but they had trouble marking out the bulkheads. Another will build and say it went fine but the section about allowing the clearances on the buttstraps was a problem.

I think that to understand that this is the "shape of the universe" has been useful for me as a designer (ie don't try to fight the universe or get frustrated with its shape) and the best strategy seems to be to have a forum just like this one. In fact, I suspect it is the only time efficient way to deal with the normal problems of building. So here ... I really have to thank the builders of my boats for their enormous contribution.

From Biting_Midge (who built the first Goat, then the first Eureka and sponsored the PDRacers) right through to Jamie with his first post yeserdayand his blog ... I am really, really grateful to you all!!! I really never expected to have so many connections to other parts of the world ... USA, Canada, Mexico, Argentina, Ecuador, UK, Senegal, Capetown, Romania, Denmark, Sweden, France, Hungary, Slovania, Slovakia, Poland, Russia, the Phillipines ... all something I really did not expect.

Like following Bjarne (Maximuss) build, it is amazing the multinational nature of the help and advice. World Peace might be only one step away - providing those GIS sailors don't get too aggressive with each other at the Big Lagoon Messabout!!!

ok ... now that is off my chest .. have a look at some of the stuff written by Jamie.


Setting out to build a boat (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/09/setting-out-to-build-boat.html)

I have been around boats my whole life. I still don't know a whole lot about them, but not for lack of exposure. I had never contemplated building my own boat before; then I stumbled upon the Wooden Boat magazine series, "Getting Started in Boats".

I was looking a way to get back on the water. The Lumber Yard Skiff (LYS) by Maynard Bray seemed like the perfect choice, inexpensive and challenging to a novice boat builder (or at least to me- is there a level below novice?). I excitedly described my intentions to my wife. She was skeptical. Still is. I bought the plans. I studied them intently. I picked up and read a few excellent references, two books from Greg Rossel, The Boatbuilders Apprentice, and Building a Smallboat.

Excitedly, and in retrospect, too hurriedly, I began building the LYS. Disaster stuck early and often. First, while trying to mate the hullsides to the inner stem, I repeatedly lost control of the hullsides and they continually toppled over to the pavement. Then one hullside broke. No problem. I quickly decided to press on, shortening the length from 14' 8" to 10' 8". I was also determined to keep the same beam, 48".

I moved the second station (the location of the mold, and widest section of the boat) back to compensate for the shortened length. I set about mating up the sides the stem again.

Disaster struck again. While bending the sides around the mold, a plank broke at the mold. I shut things down on the LYS and went back to the drawings board.
I spent the next week or so considering different designs. The boats I intially considered were Herreshoff's Biscayne Bay 14 and Coquina, Alden's O Boat, and Joel White's Marsh Cat and Haven 12 1/2. All of these boats are classics that would be a dream to build and sail; the problem is that they are all ambitious for my skill level. Undeterred, I continued to poke around and then stumbled across the Goat Island Skiff design by Michael Storer.

The more I read about the GIS, the more I came to like the design. Mr. Storer has designed an extremely capable boat with great lines. In addition, the detail of the plans, the method of construction, and personel support given by Mr. Storer lends the GIS to be a great first build. In the end the decision was easy. I am building a Goat Island Skiff.

I learned many things in failing to build the LYS - slow down, be patient, spend the time to make it right. As an example, I had a lot of trouble with the inner stem. In the end, I did not spend enough time with the plane getting it right. That lead to my problem fitting the sides to the stem, the bulk of my frustration, which lead to further problems down the line. There is only one innaccuracy here ... Mr Storer (haha)? You have a nice eye for boats Jamie, many of those are in my list of favourites too - but are all quite complex builds or quite long builds. Do one of them next time round maybe!


Small Steps Forward (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/09/small-steps-forward.html)

http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SNsLf5k1h2I/AAAAAAAAB7Q/Llm--kdCxCI/s400/IMG_0032.jpg

Not much progress has been made when it comes to actually building the boat. I have cleaned out the garage and built shelves to create more floor space. I bought the okueme marine plywood and the epoxy kit from Duckworks.

The plans include a large step-by-step booklet, as well as enough detailed drawings to get a very good understanding of the build sequence and requirements.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SNsLkIqYA_I/AAAAAAAAB7o/I5Onfrfqv0o/s720/IMG_0035.jpg

Next steps are to finish the buy-out of wood (western red cedar, doug fir, and some hardwood), as well as begin the step-by-step building of the boat. I plan to lay out the bottom, sides, transom, and bulkhead as called for in the plans when I have a few hours to work uninterrupted.

I also plan on building a small cart to easily move the boat in and out of the garage. For the rest ... we will all just have to follow Jamie's blog. I might steal some interesting bits from time to time.

MIK

BobWes
28th September 2008, 04:39 AM
Cool, another N. California GIS! Jamie, I look forward to following your GIS build.

There are a few points I need to clarify for David - and everyone else:



I am "BobW" over on the WBF (BobW wasn't available - or I did something wrong when I registered here!). So, BobWes here is BobW there.
While I would love to be at "mid build," I must confess to only being at "mid planning" on my GIS. (Not to dwell on the negative, but these past few months since Karen passed away have been challenging. I will be moving next month - possibly to a place without a garage, so I am working on finding an alternative workspace.) Where there's a will, there's a way, and I'm using that Big Lagoon Messabout in Humboldt as motivation.
You'll know when I start my build - I'll be asking plenty of questions!

Bob

arbordg
28th September 2008, 05:00 AM
Cool, another N. California GIS! Jamie, I look forward to following your GIS build.

There are a few points I need to clarify for David - and everyone else:



I am "BobW" over on the WBF (BobW wasn't available - or I did something wrong when I registered here!). So, BobWes here is BobW there.
While I would love to be at "mid build," I must confess to only being at "mid planning" on my GIS. (Not to dwell on the negative, but these past few months since Karen passed away have been challenging. I will be moving next month - possibly to a place without a garage, so I am working on finding an alternative workspace.) Where there's a will, there's a way, and I'm using that Big Lagoon Messabout in Humboldt as motivation.
You'll know when I start my build - I'll be asking plenty of questions!

Bob

Bob

How on earth was I supposed to figure out that Bob Wes & Bob W were the same guy... I can't think of two more dissimilar screen names, can you? :doh: OK, I think I've got it now.


Good luck on your new situation. In terms of questions, feel free to look through the old threads, I think you'll find a lot of answers there. Then, of course, there's Mik's site - lots and lots of good info there. The plans themselves are jam packed with precise (though sometimes sneakily understated) info. If none of that serves, feel free to ask here or at WBF. I'm happy to supply info and even occasionally, the right answer. If I don't have info on tap, I'll make something up - or refer the question to Mik (so he can make something up). Seriously, Mik is great at responding to serious inquiries.

Remember, you're welcome at Big Lagoon whether the boat is done or not.


"God made Truth with many doors to welcome every believer who knocks on them"

BobWes
28th September 2008, 05:36 AM
LOL Well, I'm sorry for the confusion, but sometimes even I have a hard time remembering who I am - or maybe it's that I don't always know who I am!

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'll get it figured out and start my boat as soon as I can. A friend here in town has offered the use of his shop to mill the lumber for my project, but he just doesn't have the room to let me build there.

To be sure, I have been reading through the threads here, and every once in a while review Mik's site - lots of good info available. I've enjoyed reading your contributions and pics here and over on WBF.

I do plan to attend the Big Lagoon event - with or without a boat. If I show up without a boat I am trusting I can catch a ride or two. I'll be watching for the dates so I can pencil them in on the calendar.

Bob

arbordg
28th September 2008, 06:41 AM
Bob,

Dates are May 8-10, 2009. Here's a link.

http://www.luckhardt.com/blmessabout.html

BobWes
28th September 2008, 07:34 AM
Thanks, David. The '09 Big Lagoon messabout is on my calendar!

Bob

Boatmik
28th September 2008, 10:19 AM
Howdy again Bob,

Sounds like you are in for a sail if you can get to the Messabout!

Nice to see you again ... even if I haven't quite come to grips with BobW and Bobwes! David has a much greater flexibility of mind than me.

Best wishes
Michael

jboats
30th September 2008, 07:46 AM
It is probably a bad sign that I have to ask repair questions this early in the build process...

I was cutting out one of the centercase sides, unknowingly I cut into the leading edge of the aft bottom section of ply.

I thought of a few ways to fix this mistake, but would like the advice of the experts here on the forum:

(1) Fill the cut with epoxy glue and wood flour.
(2) Cut a small piece from scrap mahogany ply, and epoxy glue in place.
(3) Combine item 1 or 2 with increasing the width of the butt strap (called to be 75 mm total, I would have to double the width).

Here are the pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08#5251311789787690562

http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08#5251311821574771906

Any advice is appreciated - thanks!

-Jamie

jboats
30th September 2008, 07:54 AM
There is a new blog update:

www.fessendenboat.blogspot.com (http://www.fessendenboat.blogspot.com)

Sunday found me back in the garage for a few hours. Sunday also brought my first blood and first mistake. Both were inevitable. The mistake is detailed below; the blood will remain between me and the hammer.

I finished with laying out the bottom and faired in the curves. I used finishing nails instead of clamps to keep the fairing batten in the correct position. My batten is also a little short, so I use the finishing nails to create a "track" to run the batten forward and aft on, maintaining the curve.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBoPVdi61I/AAAAAAAAB9k/DrQC7TkyXvI/s400/IMG_0045.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UtK3O1ybjstF7yTapeFZag)

From Goat Island Skiff - 27 Sep 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08)

Then I cut out a bunch of the plywood pieces - bulkhead 1, 2, 3, and 4; the sides of the centerboard case, and the bow seat. I used the jig saw to cut near the mark line, then planed down to the line (without removing the line).

http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBoYDGk3uI/AAAAAAAAB-E/yGdXNSGy__o/s400/IMG_0054.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jxax6l6x_uhmPxUZXLtAlQ)

From Goat Island Skiff - 27 Sep 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBoVdLg2RI/AAAAAAAAB98/leRTfzjWx34/s400/IMG_0053.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6UiGsazM1fF99qj-gBg3wQ)

From Goat Island Skiff - 27 Sep 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08)
In cutting the pieces out, I was using both the saw horse and the cart I built to hold the GIS during the build. The cart offers a nice stable platform for cutting out the smaller pieces. Unfortunately, I was so excited the cart worked so well, I failed to notice that the piece I was cutting overlapped slightly with another piece of ply - the aft section of the bottom. I made a small cut, about 7 cm, into the leading edge of the aft bottom section. I thought of a few ways to fix this mistake, which I will run by the experts at the Michael Storer forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=169):

(1) Fill the cut with epoxy glue and wood flour.
(2) Cut a small piece from scrap mahogany ply, and epoxy glue in place.
(3) Combine item 1 or 2 with increasing the width of the butt strap (called to be 75 mm total, I would have to double the width).

http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBoQAsdtkI/AAAAAAAAB9s/iYN3NkD3hYY/s400/IMG_0051.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IenFmZ2j92STIbxHE8Xivw)

From Goat Island Skiff - 27 Sep 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBoR3HGFMI/AAAAAAAAB90/CTRiotuQHhQ/s400/IMG_0052.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oSw43PyH7S2PqNjf2_AFVA)

From Goat Island Skiff - 27 Sep 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff27Sep08)
I did not cut the transom out yet, as I could not remember how the discrepancy between the drawing and the text for the cut marks was resolved. I have since looked this up (again on the Michael Storer forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=169)) , and the text is correct: cut 7 mm outside of the transom side marks, and 12 mm out of the transom bottom mark.

Here is a shot of the various ply pieces on the cart:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBogL348XI/AAAAAAAAB-c/E2J0b4LmHIU/s400/IMG_0057.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z2GkwA_fwzUIjgpdq8uyYQ)

-Jamie

Boatmik
30th September 2008, 08:45 AM
From Jamie's Blog


In cutting the pieces out, I was using both the saw horse and the cart I built to hold the GIS during the build. The cart offers a nice stable platform for cutting out the smaller pieces. Unfortunately, I was so excited the cart worked so well, I failed to notice that the piece I was cutting overlapped slightly with another piece of ply - the aft section of the bottom. I made a small cut, about 7 cm, into the leading edge of the aft bottom section. I thought of a few ways to fix this mistake, which I will run by the experts at the Michael Storer forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=169):

(1) Fill the cut with epoxy glue and wood flour.
(2) Cut a small piece from scrap mahogany ply, and epoxy glue in place.
(3) Combine item 1 or 2 with increasing the width of the butt strap (called to be 75 mm total, I would have to double the width).

http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SOBoQAsdtkI/AAAAAAAAB9s/iYN3NkD3hYY/s400/IMG_0051.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IenFmZ2j92STIbxHE8Xivw)

Howdy Jamie,

Perfect ... putting the tape there shows it is a small cut.

If it is at the rear end of the bottom panel a lot of it will trim off when the panel is fitted to the bottom of the boat.

As it is so small, I would fill it with glue mix as you suggest and have another look when the bottom is glued on.

Some will trim off and the rest will be held together by the transom glued across the cut. The transom will prevent any serious loads from being applied to the damaged area.

If there is only 20mm of the cot visible inside the boat when the transom goes on then I probably wouldn't bother doing anything. But if it is bigger than 20 and less than 60mm then I would just put a single layer of glass tape on the inside.

If it is bigger than 60mm I would put a buttstrap on the inside of the transom.

Best wishes
Michael

jboats
30th September 2008, 09:08 AM
Mik,

Thank you for the quick reply - unfortunately, the cut is located amidships - right where the two separate pieces of the bottom are to be connected with the butt strap. Does this change your repair recommendations?

Best,
Jamie

Boatmik
30th September 2008, 09:34 AM
Hi Jamie,

Glue it together for now as you suggest.

If the standard buttstrap covers the cut completely there is no problem at all.

If there is only a small part of the cut exposed after the butt strap goes on (less than 20mm) I would not worry about doing anything.

If it is more than 20mm then put a piece of glass tape to cover it on the inside of the boat.

Actually, it is possible the centrecase structure might cover this area. if that happens then you won't have to do anything.

Best wishes
Michael

jboats
30th September 2008, 10:42 AM
Thanks Michael - appreciate the quick response.

chad
1st October 2008, 07:06 AM
In reply to your repairs needed- wider butt straps seem a good way out to me. When you sail a GIS, you hardly notice them so a little more can't hurt.
As for other cuts/holes- well if I had somehow made a hole thru' the bottom of my GIS whilst building it, in fact a hole right thru' into the centrecase assembly, then I might have filled the hole with a little ply and a thick mix of epoxy and powder. If it then slumped a little bit then I'd have just added more mix the next day.
No one would even know once the paint goes on!
In fact, the repair has been totally waterproof out on the river......

everything's gonna be just fine, just keep plugging away :doh:

jboats
1st October 2008, 07:50 AM
Thanks Chad. I will keep plugging along - more mistakes are sure to come, but that is what makes it interesting.

arbordg
1st October 2008, 12:47 PM
That's funny, we never made any mistakes when we built ours. Nope, not one.

And if you believe that, I have some nice oceanfront property in Arizone that I'd be willing to let go for a very reasonable price <G>

Seriously, keep 'em coming. One of us will come up with a plausible answer.

CCBB
1st October 2008, 10:38 PM
My instructor in boatbuilding school told me after I was complaining about a number of mistakes...he said, "sounds like you're building a boat". That was all the empathy I got :)

Clint

jboats
3rd October 2008, 02:58 AM
Gentlemen,

Last night I was laying out where the frames/inspection ports/holes would be located on the bulkheads.

When I got to bulkhead 2, I started laying out the hole. Maybe I am missing something, but I was confused as to the dimensions of the hole. I am expecting the same issue on bulkhead 3.

The bottom of the hole runs parallel to the bottom edge of the bulkhead, 80 mm above the bottom edge. Same for the top. My question deals with the curved ends of each hole - what is the best way to draw/fair them and what are there dimensions/radius to use? There are dimension located along the right side of the drawing - 100 mm interval, and some width measurements, but they do not seem to correlate.

Thanks!
Jamie

Boatmik
3rd October 2008, 09:31 AM
Howdy Jamie,

It is an 80mm margin all the way around.

MIK

jboats
10th October 2008, 09:30 AM
09 October 2008

The Real Debate... (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/10/real-debate.html)

The name and color scheme debate continues to rage inside my head. My friend, I have spent may hours dreaming up names and color/finishing schemes for the final product (assuming I make it that far). My latest idea, my friend, is to base the finished Goat on one of the world's great beers (and my friend!), Guinness. Black hull, bright interior, tan-ish colored sail, and maybe some cream colored trim to top it off... She would go by the name "Guinness" (was there a doubt?). Would it then be bad luck to christen her with Guinness? I am certain Joe Six-Pack would approve, but would hockey moms?

So, onto more straight talk...

MIK was right. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=79794&page=2) The mistake I pointed out so poignantly (Pulitzer on the way I'm told) last week was no big deal. I failed to describe the correct location in that post - it is in the aft section of the bottom that will be trimmed off (at least most of it). I was thrilled when this finally dawned on me (it took a while).

Links of note this week:


For those building, or dreaming of building a GIS, there is a good thread over on the Wooden Boat forum. (http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85690) I am learning a lot keeping up with it.
MIK pointed out a great article just posted on Duckworks website (http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/projects/gis/index.htm)with great build information.

This week the shop was filled the music of Josh Ritter (The Animal Years) and Bruce Springsteen (Live in Dublin). Good boat building music. I also relocated a bottle of Isle of Jura Superstition (http://www.isleofjura.com/whisky/range/detail.cfm?contentid=228) into the shop. Nice to have nip and contemplate the progress of the day.

Work completed since the last post:
Finally cut out the bottom, careful to leave 20 mm around each line as I cut. Most of the framing for the bulkheads is now cut out. I cut the internal spacers for the center board case, twice (and not for practice). The second came after re-reading the directions, and realizing I cut the first set too small for the centerboard to have clearance. Better to discover this now. Last night I used a Japanese pull saw (http://www.duckworksbbs.com/tools/pullsaws/index.htm) to cut the internal spacers to size. It was good practice with this saw for me.

I am working up a check list for each piece of the GIS prior to assembling the boat. I am doing so in hopes that it keeps me straight and I don't skip a critical item. I am working it out by hand now, but plan to put it to computer soon. An example:

Bulkhead 1:


Measure and layout bulkhead on marine ply.
Cut out bulkhead and hand plane down to the lines.
Measure and layout bulkhead frames.
Cut out frames.
Measure and mark out inspection port hole, ensuring it does not interfere with mast step.
Mark centerline on ply - opposite side of frame locations
Dry fit frames to bulkhead.
Glue and clamp frames to bulkhead.
Bevel edges per drawing/text after glue drys
Sand both sides and frame (RO and hand sand)
Epoxy coat both sides, wet on wet, 3 coats

This is just an example. It is not intended to replace the drawings or text, but to slow me down and ensure I think through each step. I don't want to get half way through assembling something to realize I forgot something important. I have had many of these "oh, $#&!" moments and am hoping to avoid repeating mistakes of the past.

Over the next week I hope to glue up the centerboard case, glue some of the bulkhead framing in place, glue the hullsides together, and glue the bottom together. I also have some more framing to cut out - transom framing and the side arms for bulkheads three and four.

Next time I promise to post pictures.

BobWes
10th October 2008, 03:41 PM
Jamie,

The color scheme and name sound great! I can't think of any reason not to use Guinness for the christening. If you need witnesses for the ceremony, tell me when and where, and I'll bring the Guinness! :) Then, later in the spring you can help me christen Karen Ann with Dr. Pepper (Karen's favorite!) I solemnly promise on all the ancient traditions of the sea to provide other libations for those unwilling - or unable - to drink Dr. Pepper! :U

Bob

jboats
11th October 2008, 09:37 AM
Thanks Bob... I can only hope I am ready by spring!

jboats
14th October 2008, 04:11 PM
13 October 2008

Weekend Work (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/10/weekend-work.html)

While the current progress would probably not lend itself to an outsider guessing that I am building a boat in the garage, it will soon enough. Sunday I was feeling really good about have a bulkhead framed out and the hull sides glued up together.

Saturday, I had an itch to glue things together. I cut the butt straps for the hull sides, and glued the sides in place. I used the packaging tape around the edges of the straps, but still managed to get the epoxy glue in places I didn't want it. I used finishing nails to hold the straps in position, and a few bricks and a bottle of resin to put weight on the straps as they were drying. Sunday afternoon, I removed the bricks, bottle, nails, and tape. All morning I agonized over the fact that I left the tape on after I was done with gluing and weighting the strap - afraid that I permanently glued the tape to the hull side. Not to worry, the tape released fine.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQmxo4dZlI/AAAAAAAACAI/nbN2HgBRHpQ/s400/IMG_0046-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mHLA5Ua-NhOmEW9kAs5r_Q)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQmzBVcy7I/AAAAAAAACBU/PBStcGcfOMw/s400/IMG_0047-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/84OUdAwSK377lmXxE4caxA)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQm0jS30fI/AAAAAAAACAY/ivKJz8p8jJU/s400/IMG_0048-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qyGIyXl89owxVEqrRaVz9Q)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQm4BXPPKI/AAAAAAAACAo/_ErdlPw2tgU/s400/IMG_0050.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nhbbKze9RJUuKk71gZpEYw)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
After the sides, I started in on the spacers for the centerboard case and the frames for bulkhead one. I dry fit the spacers and the frames and used spring clamps instead of fasteners and weight. I am trying to avoid filling in a bunch of fastener holes in the end. After dry fitting, I layed out clamps and spacers/frames in the manner in which I would apply them. I mixed up the epoxy glue, and went for it. Everything went well, though the spring clamps proved to be mildly frustrating. The clamps tend to pull the spacer/frame inward toward clamp handle with the epoxy applied. I used a few quick release c-clamps in areas that gave me too much grief. By Sunday afternoon the bulkhead were solid. It is really something to feel how light, but rigid and solid the bulkheads are when framed out.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQmt4XQGAI/AAAAAAAAB_4/wIXQC_EQw6o/s400/IMG_0044-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gGpI0Q91QHGZN7Ati3YMnQ)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQm2TrLepI/AAAAAAAACAg/nFsn523SB2E/s400/IMG_0049-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/k1eGCl89gMuXmo6aB22Rog)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPQm6PllhNI/AAAAAAAACA0/nLyeav9ZM9M/s400/IMG_0051-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cSwxmNx5nZ7Re2y5vKhfDQ)From Goat Island Skiff 11 Oct 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff11Oct08)
In retrospect, I needed to add more silica to the epoxy mixture. The plans call for a peanut butter like consistency, I think I was closer to honey (but on the peanut butter side of the scale). It took more silica than I imagined just to get to the honey like consistency.

I used the ziplock bag method for dispensing the glue, managing to make quite a mess in the process. Two factors that caused the most trouble - the hole I made in the ziplock bag was too big, and the epoxy glue was too runny. I will try it again with more attention given to the consistency of the glue and the size of the hole.

I will have some sanding to do to get the glue cleaned up in spots where I don't want it.

BobWes
15th October 2008, 10:34 AM
Jamie,

Thanks for the update, and the tips about the clamps. I know I'll find my own ways to slow me down, but I appreciate the valuable bits and pieces I'm picking up from you and other builders.

Bob

Boatmik
15th October 2008, 12:19 PM
Howdy Jamie,

Looking good. The hint about getting the hole size right in the plastic bag is critical!!!

Also suggest not leaving cleanup until the next day. I try to wait about an hour (to then use a stirring stick sharpened to a chisel point on a sander.

Best wishes
Michael

jboats
15th October 2008, 03:31 PM
MIK,

I agree 100% on the cleanup. I will post an update of some work I did last night - it was much better once I got epoxy consistency right and cut a smaller hole in the bag. I cleaned up as I went as you suggest. Details to follow...

Cheers,
Jamie

jboats
16th October 2008, 06:32 AM
15 October 2008

The Joy of Epoxy Glue (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/10/joy-of-epoxy-glue.html)

A few spare hours on Monday night allowed for the fit-up and gluing of frames to two more bulkheads, numbers 2 and 3.

After the mess I made over the weekend, I applied a few lessons learned to the process:


In making up the epoxy glue concoction, I started with the minimal amount of resin/hardener before adding the silica powder. It was much easier to attain the peanut butter like consistency called for in the directions. When needed, I added more resin/hardener during the mixing process to get the right consistency.
This time I was careful to cut a small hole in the corner of the ziplock bag. Much easier to handle.
The batches of epoxy glue I used this time were much less runny than my work on Saturday. This made clean up a breeze. I applied the glue/clamped the items in place, then went around with a sharpened stir stick and rag to clean off the excess glue.

Dare I say it was a joy in comparison to the work on Saturday?

CCBB
16th October 2008, 06:54 AM
Jamie, Can I make a few suggestions. Regarding #1, are you adding more resin/hardener to the thickened mixture having already mixed the resin and hardener into a homogeneous mixture. In case the answer is no, you should pre-mix the 2 parts in another container and then add it to the already thickened epoxy. Do not add resin and hardener to the already thickened mixture and expect that the two parts will mix properly.

Regarding #3, always be sure that once you apply the clamps and get the squeeze that you don't take clamps off again or even relieve pressure slightly or else you have to take the two pieces apart and add more glue. Otherwise you can get voids within the glue joint. And yes, go thicker when in doubt, generally you regret the other way around!

As I have gotten more competent at F'glass over the last few years, I have come to enjoy it more.

Cheers,
Clint

jboats
16th October 2008, 07:05 AM
Thanks Clint! - I appreciate the feedback. I am sure you just saved me from some pain and suffering over the next few weeks. I am going to add a link your post in my blog.

Boatmik
16th October 2008, 07:26 AM
Great stuff ... both of you!

Jamie ... this is where the forum proves its worth, and Clint ... thanks for being here and helping like this!!!

Grateful to you both
Michael

jboats
20th October 2008, 03:42 AM
Seems I have a hard time reading directions.

Both of these questions pertain to bulkhead 4:

(1) Failure to read the directions resulted in me gluing up the side arms on bulkhead 4 (Make a pair of sidearms but do not attach at this point) ... can I survive this, or do I need to start from scratch on this bulkhead?

(2) Figure 5 shows that the bottom frame has a 4 mm overlap with the ply and the text calls for a 2 mm bevel (page 23). Just want to confirm this is correct.

Thanks!
Jamie

chad
20th October 2008, 06:57 AM
all bevels on blkhd 4 are 2mm
side arms are left off until much later in the build as they need to be matched to the curve
that the side panel takes on during build. I'd suggest that to leave them on the bulkhead will give problems as early as assembling sides to bulkheads- probably your next stage!
Rather than start with a new Bhd (since you may not have enough ply), I would saw off as much side arms as poss, plane the rest down to the level of the ply face and then make new arms when ready to fit them later in build. The new arms will cover any marks left if you are careful.
hope that helps- Chad

PS , I spent 122 hours building my GIS (plus rigging) BUT I must have spent at least 50 hours or even more reading the manuals in the evenings. Read ahead to make more sense of what you do, but dont be tempted into shortcuts or deviations since the plans are really good!

Boatmik
20th October 2008, 11:04 AM
Howdy Jamie,

The reason for leaving the arms off is it makes it much easier to fit the top of the buoyancy tank when they are not there.

You can just trim the top and push it in the right direction to get rid of any gaps. With care you could probably jigsaw most of the arms off then plane or sand the rest off too. Pretty much what Chad suggests.

Main thing ... is almost nothing is a disaster ... as I have found out many times with my own boatbuilding!!!

Just work out the best way to resolve each problem as you go.

Best wishes
Michael

jboats
21st October 2008, 06:18 AM
Chad and MIK,

Thank you for the quick replies - one of the reasons I chose to build the GIS was the incredible support found on this forum.

I will survey my pile of scrap plywood, and if I have the right size will build the bulkhead from scratch (I have plenty of timber). I figure this method will take 4-6 hours plus waiting for the glue to cure.

If not, I will attempt to carefully separate the side arms from the ply using either a pull saw or jig saw. Then plane/sand down to a flat surface without (hopefully) removing any ply.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again for the quick response.

Best,
Jamie

jboats
21st October 2008, 09:19 AM
20 October 2008

Weekend Update (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/10/weekend-update.html)

My wife worked all weekend, which allowed me to spend a good deal of time (once my chores were completed) working on the GIS.

I unknowingly started off on the wrong foot Saturday morning, failing to properly read the directions for bulkhead 4. I was quite chagrined later that afternoon when re-reading the bulkhead directions, only to come across... "make up side arms but do not attach at this point". Doi!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXOO5E-pI/AAAAAAAACCo/9Pxa-f_RV8c/s400/IMG_0044-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7PJrgtgNn39wn4RPvRqXjA)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
You can see in the picture above that I did a mighty fine job gluing the side arms in place. My best gluing job yet. I was real proud of myself all morning for my improved handling of epoxy. I posed this question to the great folks on Michael Storer's forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=79794&page=3) and received a couple good ideas for repairing my mistake. My first choice will be to make up a new bulkhead and frames from scratch, provided I have enough scrap ply. Second is to carefully cut off the side arms with a pull saw or jigsaw, then plane/sand down to the ply, and make new side arms. The side arms go on later in the build to make it easier to fit the tank top correctly.

I also finished work on the transom. I made a new bottom frame, beveled the aft tank cleat, and cut out the top frame. I had already cut the side frames to size. I cut the bottom frame, then I cut the tank cleat to size. I did my first bevel for the GIS, using a chisel, plane and trusty random orbital sander (ROS). Next I did a dry fit of the components (minus the top frame), then glued them in place.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXQGIphXI/AAAAAAAACCw/Bgr6k_QP5as/s400/IMG_0045-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/60SnUUnuPyNJRuXNBZjSSw)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
It may be hard to see, but the picture below shows a small bevel:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXUrsfLTI/AAAAAAAACDA/ZpaO6HNU4z8/s400/IMG_0047-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mttTbNn1ejbsv3tCzg0MsA)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
The top transom frame gave me a bit of trouble. My first two attempts failed - finally I made a pattern with some scrap ply.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXTMMvZOI/AAAAAAAACC4/vdsXrILuys8/s400/IMG_0046-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FGFZ9LFmYuXdSZ9SKfb9Wg)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
After making the pattern all was right in the world. I also cut the pattern and frame a bit oversize on top to plane down to the ply (and hopefully get a nice fair curve on the transom top).

At this point, I discovered the problem with bulkhead 4 -so after logging onto the forum, I decided to do some work I knew I could complete in good fashion. I cut the holes out of the frames 2 and 3, and the inspection port out of bulkhead 1.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXWqVcwDI/AAAAAAAACDI/dDpjAeg2In8/s400/IMG_0048-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CympziyU3koEPtBvUNd_Uw)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXYvDq8aI/AAAAAAAACDQ/sXIkY4k0VTs/s400/IMG_0049-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gNq1NXSJTSAVrwzTYHjnvg)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXZ3dNsZI/AAAAAAAACDY/6sEwnC1LsVw/s400/IMG_0050-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5Bdc9TE92y-oQvY3ZipBmA)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
That wrapped up my Saturday... after cleanup I had just enough time to get dinner ready before my wife returned from work.

Sunday, after getting my Steeler fix, I had a few hours to forge ahead on the bulkheads. I started with bulkhead 1, cutting the side and bottom bevels. Experimenting with a few different methods for cutting the bevels, I tried, with varying success, chisel/plane/sander, pull saw/chisel/plane/sander, and jigsaw/plane/sander. For a small bevel, the chisel/plane/sander method worked best for me. For larger bevels (6mm, 8 mm), I like the jigsaw method. There might be easier methods available, but these worked out for me. The key for me was to go slowly. After cutting the bevels, I hit the bulkhead with 80 grit, then 120 grit on the aft side.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXdmAx-JI/AAAAAAAACDo/5oNdG_sCgnk/s400/IMG_0052-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iircCz8pv2VCj4ZpJYpFVQ)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)
Then I did the same with bulkhead 2.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jamiefessenden/SPwXbvdliyI/AAAAAAAACDg/BySswQ7UNwI/s400/IMG_0051-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cd1F3Z5a6auP2CPyXj8KAQ)From Goat Island Skiff 19 Oct 2008 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff19Oct2008)

Boatmik
21st October 2008, 08:36 PM
Howdy Jamie ... great progress ... everything looks crisp and clear! Are you going to epoxy the various components before they go into the boat and sand them. Will save you heaps of time and effort later.

I can give you a rundown on what to do at this stage if you like.

MIK

jboats
22nd October 2008, 04:18 AM
MIK,

My plan is the following, with input from you and others encouraged.


Finish framing all of the bulkheads (1, 2, 3, and transom complete - still need to do 4 again).
Cut inspection port holes in bulkhead 4
Cut hole in transom for tiller (Is this okay to do here? Seems like it would be easier to do now, then waiting until the transom is installed.)
Bevel the edges per the plans (Complete on Blkd 1 & 2, no bevel on 3).
Sand each bulkhead with 80 grit to remove any excess glue.
Sand each bulkhead with 120, then 220. [note, I sanded through to the 120 on Blhd 1 & 2). I am using a combination of a ROS and hand sanding
Epoxy coat (wet on wet per appendix) the bulkheads and transom- one side at a time.

I was thinking that I should wait until I have the chine logs installed before I cut the notches in the bulkhead for the chines. Maybe I should do this before the sanding/epoxy.

Also, should I varnish the bulkheads at this point or wait until the bulkheads are installed?

How much attention do you pay to the bulkhead sides that will not be visible (forward side of 1 & 2, aft side of 4, lower forward side of transom)? I imagine the real goal is getting a good epoxy job, but not to worry about a perfect sanding job.

The centerboard case is ready for the same treatment.

Then on to the stem, chine logs, etc...

Thanks MIK!

Boatmik
22nd October 2008, 12:54 PM
MIK,

My plan is the following, with input from you and others encouraged.

Howdy Jamie, it is a bit hard for me to remember everything but it looks ok. I have some comments


Finish framing all of the bulkheads (1, 2, 3, and transom complete - still need to do 4 again).

Remember the arms need to be left of BHD #2 for the same reason as #4


Cut inspection port holes in bulkhead 4

And Bhd #1


Cut hole in transom for tiller (Is this okay to do here? Seems like it would be easier to do now, then waiting until the transom is installed.)


Bevel the edges per the plans (Complete on Blkd 1 & 2, no bevel on 3).
Sand each bulkhead with 80 grit to remove any excess glue.

80 grit is too coarse ... use 150 or 180. Don't worry about follow up grades. If there is a big epoxy glue build up it would be ok to quickly use 80grit to get rid of about 80% of it before changing over.


Epoxy coat (wet on wet per appendix) the bulkheads and transom- one side at a time.

Might want to mask off any bonding areas.


I was thinking that I should wait until I have the chine logs installed before I cut the notches in the bulkhead for the chines. Maybe I should do this before the sanding/epoxy.

Maybe ... but do the limber holes at this stage if you like.

Cutting the chine log notches will give a neat match that way and the bulkheads will go to exactly the right height. The order of epoxy sealing doesnt matter because if you cut the notches later the bare wood will become a glued surface anyhow.


Also, should I varnish the bulkheads at this point or wait until the bulkheads are installed?

Varnishing now is not a good idea as the varnish will always end up in some place where you want to glue later and it makes any bond VERY weak. But sanding the epoxy nicely will save you HEAPS of time later.


How much attention do you pay to the bulkhead sides that will not be visible (forward side of 1 & 2, aft side of 4, lower forward side of transom)? I imagine the real goal is getting a good epoxy job, but not to worry about a perfect sanding job.

If they are 100 percent not visible you won't need to varnish at all ... just the glossy surface of the epoxy.


The centerboard case is ready for the same treatment.

Then on to the stem, chine logs, etc...

Thanks MIK!

A pleasure, my good man.

MIK

jboats
31st October 2008, 08:34 AM
Here is my latest (the blog has another item, but this is the real work)- Jamie


The Transom - the good, the bad, and the ugly (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/10/transom-work-good-bad-and-ugly.html)

My delay in posting is due to self-inflicted internal strife... a slip of the sander resulting in this:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmDksfF-I/AAAAAAAACFk/i37QCb0PBVg/s400/IMG_0003.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vBmu5nE8Qm9hIwOvg1WI3w)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)

From a distance it does not seem bad:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmBqUv8lI/AAAAAAAACFc/Rpy34T1rEVU/s400/IMG_0002.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ggOkNgFs-DdMCjT8S-U4Eg)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
I have been beating myself up over this all week. Normally I am pretty careful with the sander, but this took me by surprise. Sanding the top of the transom to get the timber and ply to the line - both were over sized on purpose (the timber especially for no particular reason), I must of caught the edge of the ply with the sander. Disappointing. One of my favorite parts of the boat is the transom - finished bright with a name in gold leaf lettering. Daydreaming about the Goat's finished transom fills the dead space in my workday. Now what shall I do?

The rest of transom came out pretty good, with the a few exceptions. I was particularly pleased with my work on the bevels:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmGnnm1GI/AAAAAAAACF0/ox_j-pc_0vg/s400/IMG_0007.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QJZN3dxzbYwKTVtkdFqVRA)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmIDEqrmI/AAAAAAAACF8/X_JyItMQjKA/s400/IMG_0013.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Qt65qH0xlECL1_aV0VhwfQ)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmJs5iAOI/AAAAAAAACGE/11BUtIUuOTI/s400/IMG_0015.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Yg_yjwQ8p-tQec33oRwbKA)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
One sloppy glue joint (note that the gap between the top frame and side frame in the upper left hand corner of the picture will be filled with wood flour and epoxy):
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmLn5esSI/AAAAAAAACGM/_Hq21qII6RI/s400/IMG_0020.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PmSPlljISPI3WGOPxYNXPw)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
And I am not sure what happened here... (it was worse, this is mid-sanding):
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmM7vQtCI/AAAAAAAACGU/XnqhwWiEy5I/s400/IMG_0021.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RGL4lfNtggfg2GcuW_Dvfg)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
But it is cleaning up well. The sloppy glue joint is coming along, slowly with some 100 grit:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmN85IAaI/AAAAAAAACGc/Kx9bHpLCHAI/s400/IMG_0022.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4j-rnANE2sEkt0oL0BUfSA)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)

I am really torn here. I put in a fair few hours on this transom After more sanding of the transom top to fair out the curve it is looking pretty good (with some more sanding to go, to remove the glue spots along the timber/ply on the inside):
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmPZQUaFI/AAAAAAAACGo/ov7KOGFgU1Y/s400/IMG_0023.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LeIuaRnGWb8LnlWtNIICCg)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmSkAvyGI/AAAAAAAACG4/ckP8GWggDV0/s400/IMG_0025.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iBJ8m8kj27RYU0AMBIcRjg)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmUUb5T-I/AAAAAAAACHA/SyAba8qDLrg/s400/IMG_0027.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HnrZb-WxWkJnHbfVFfhVDQ)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
But this is not going away despite my persistent stares and threats:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SQkmVlpNR3I/AAAAAAAACHI/xyaQ082XMoI/s400/IMG_0028.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CtRQdhj5yKOCXfKzx3mxYA)From Goat Island Skiff Transom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffTransom)
I am hoping that between the epoxy and the varnish it will only be a slight visual defect. Adds "character" some would say. I have not posted because I didn't know what approach I would take. And I was upset with my own carelessness. So after a week of going 12 rounds with myself, I will continue on as is. I am bound to make more mistakes, and if I chose to fix every mistake I make, I'll end up building her twice (not that this would be a bad thing).

Rain this weekend. I should at least get some more sanding done and the frames glued up on bulkhead 4 (but not the side arms!).

One more before I go, we ate at a local Chinese restaurant for lunch today. My fortune, "The stock market may be your ticket to success."

A nice weekend to everybody.

Boatmik
31st October 2008, 09:26 AM
Curses and drats!

You could


accept it
put a piece of trim along the top edge
use some paint and pencils to "dodge in" the woodgrain (it is a bit hard with plywood but if you ever have a woodgrain dashboard on a classic car to redo ... be very careful ... they can be a jigsaw of veneered pieces and painted bits to join them all up. Can look just terrible if they are stripped completely)


But ... would be interested in what others have to say ...

Suggestions please!!!

MIK

jboats
31st October 2008, 09:41 AM
Curses and drats!

A much softer version of my initial reaction.

jmk89
31st October 2008, 09:50 AM
How about a painted trim line to highlight the edges (ie continue around the gunwhales too)? Well bu99er me, it covers that sanding mistake......

Boatmik
31st October 2008, 10:43 AM
That is quite a foolproof solution.

Just thought another way for someone with lots of tools would be to route a rebate along the edge and put in a batten of real timber.

hmmm

What about trimming the top edge down and gluing a batten of 6mm timber along the top edge. 6mm would be easy to bend and would mean that most of the mistake would have to be removed.

Could also veneer the transom (but veneer is soo expensive).

MORE ideas please ...

jboats
31st October 2008, 10:52 AM
Mik & Jeremy,

Thanks for quick replies!

I do have a router that I am always looking for a place to use. That is an inventive idea. I might do a mock up tonight or tomorrow.

I thought of the painted trim line - but am not sold on that - might do a mock up. I like what Midge has done, and has been discussed on one of threads regarding a thin paint line extended from the sides to the glue line where the sides meet the transom. Extending this along the top might not be the look I want, but worth considering.

I am also seriously considering re-doing the transom, as I believe I still have enough material for all of the parts.

Thanks again for the replies - and keep the ideas flowing! - Jamie

Boatmik
31st October 2008, 01:16 PM
PAR ... where are you? Clint? AJ? Daddles? JWL? Scrollsaw forum?

MIK

b.o.a.t.
31st October 2008, 05:31 PM
Hide it under a bit of wood.
Either bend a fine piece of moulding over it, or do what MIK suggested - rout it out & cap it.

You could even do an external "frame" around the whole transom in thin contrasting timber. say 3/16" x 2 1/2" white pine or mahogany or red cedar.

It'd take a -lot- more than a little slip with a sander to have me start over.

cheers
AJ

m2c1Iw
31st October 2008, 06:29 PM
If I may be so bold.

The area affected only looks about 2-3mm wide if this is correct redraw the top curve and trim the top only in liew of gluing on a solid wood trim as Mik has suggested. Looking of Midges build there is a wee bit to play with, worst case the hull sides may needs some finnessing to suit:oo: or revert to Miks plan A.

Just a thought

Now as for routing a rebate for me that would be inviting disaster and guarrantee a total remake:D

Mike

Theodor
31st October 2008, 07:17 PM
Similar to what the other guys have suggested .. If you were planning to use some wood throughout the boat which contrasts (or even compliments) the transom top frame, then I would suggest adding this as a trimming type cap. That is, cut a curved rebate in this contrasting wood so it stretches both over the top, flush with the front of the transom top frame, and also neatly down the back of the transom (a few inches in a matching curve or parallel to bottom - whatever looks the best).

Alternatively, cut yourself a new transom! Slightly more expensive option, but if this is a focal point of the boat for you, then its best to make it good and perfect.

Cheers,
Mark

P.S. Does anyone read the scroll-saw section of these forums? I hadn't even considered if they exist!

jboats
1st November 2008, 02:05 AM
Gentlemen, thanks for all of your input and ideas - all appreciated.

As of right now, I am going to re-do the transom. I have enough ply and timber. And I don't have a deadline to meet.

Cheers!
-Jamie

CCBB
1st November 2008, 12:37 PM
I can help here as I have similar things go on all the time with my students...who are sometimes just not paying attention rather than making an honest mistake. That's another story....anyway, Jamie, on your next transom top I really suggest marking out a nice fair line for the top of the transom and cutting closely to it with a tuned up jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Then get a nice sharp hand plane and plane it down to the line. Sanding down to a line is usually inviting trouble, much like the mistake you made. If you want to sand, make a shaped block out of foam. I use the blue construciton foam common around here...trace the curve onto the block, cut the foam block to the line with the bandsaw, and then stick a piece of coarse sandpaper onto the curve of the block. Run this block across the curve of the transom keeping the bevel or the square edge of the transom to the right angle and only using the block for that part of the curve. Make another block for the middle of the transom. This will keep the line fair and prevent slipping. Even better use the plane to get close then finish off with the foam block. The plane is best if it is low-angle, sharp and set fine.

jboats
1st November 2008, 03:52 PM
Thanks Clint - I will draw a fair curve using a batten. Then I will use the jigsaw to cut close to the line, and then plane down (block plane) to the line to finish.

Boatmik
1st November 2008, 09:03 PM
Well done chaps!
MIK

CCBB
2nd November 2008, 12:22 AM
Jamie, Do it on a piece of scrap to practice using the plane on a curve.

Clint

jboats
4th November 2008, 03:56 AM
The continuing transom saga... (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/11/continuing-transom-saga.html)

On Saturday I tried to fit a new transom and the one remaining piece I need to cut, the middle thwart, on my remaining large piece of okume ply scrap.

No go. I tried to fit them many different ways, but if I want a middle thwart, the transom will have to stay as is.

I received plenty of ideas from to cover my sanding mistake from the Michael Storer forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=79794&page=4) (thank you!), and plenty of time to make it happen.

The middle thwart is now cut out and planed (currently oversized by per the directions).

Sunday I glued on the timber frames to the aft side of bulkhead four. Later this week, maybe tomorrow, I will get the bottom frame glued on the front side.

MiddleAgesMan
4th November 2008, 11:50 AM
Re: the veneer sand-thru on the transom--is the outer veneer layer paper thin or is it close to the thickness of the rest of the layers? If paper thin you will likely run into this on other parts of the boat. As for a possible repair two good methods have been proposed. Either get rid of about 6mm all along the top and apply a solid batten or do a faux grain to mimic the look of the rest. I would make the batten slightly wider than needed and put a tiny round-over on the top edges and just ease the sharp edge where it meets the rest of the structure. Mask along the top to minimize clean up of the epoxy that will squeeze out.

About the sanding of epoxy smears and runs: you need a carbide scraper to take the majority of those things off. You'll have much better control of the process than you do taking coarse sandpaper to those spots. Do the scraping early, when the epoxy is about half hard. Even if you miss the perfect window it is still easier than sanding.

It's been about a year since I went through this stage but you are running into the same sorts of things I did and you're handling everything just fine.

jboats
5th November 2008, 03:06 AM
MAM,

Thanks for the advice and good words. I have been enjoying following your build over on the WB forum - she is looking good!

-Jamie

jboats
11th November 2008, 11:32 AM
10 November 2008

The Monday Update... (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/11/monday-update.html)

Maybe a fitting name for this boat is "Turtle". I keep creeping along slowly but surely. This weekend, a bit of milestone - the build completion of the bulkheads and transom. I received a high compliment from the wife (unknowingly, I think)... she took a look at the pile of pieces and said something along the lines of "it looks like the makings for a boat".

Both Saturday and Sunday I concentrated on getting the bulkheads built out. This involved beveling the sides and bottom of bulkhead 4, cutting the notches for the chinelogs in each bulkhead, as well as the drain holes in bulkheads 2 and 3.

Bulkhead 1 - matching the bevel of the notch with the side bevel.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SReffHFLQjI/AAAAAAAAC08/jvjfeIWV1j8/s400/IMG_0001.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Kn9GnjeTBjHgxIODBHLTpA)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SRefgtdDXAI/AAAAAAAAC1E/MY1dd98UYoo/s400/IMG_0002-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7japteqAnl2jxSR9nX-w6Q)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SRefiPO6teI/AAAAAAAAC1M/fCHCyxb-I04/s400/IMG_0003-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CRP0bM2H2vk2VG5Pk26MRw)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)Cutting out the drain holes in bulkheads 2 and 3. I still can't find my good compass anywhere, so I improvised with the top of something that head a nice fair curve.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SRefjp-cINI/AAAAAAAAC1U/hI_w1J7Hbec/s400/IMG_0005.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/B071zu7DaO42pueJpHA-FA)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SReflUDtMEI/AAAAAAAAC1c/WAugyCTBJ6I/s400/IMG_0006.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WfZlW6K-2eQ09P85aG-0Ww)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)
Bulkhead 2, completed:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SRefmxrKCDI/AAAAAAAAC1k/b5oddc50FOo/s400/IMG_0007-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CqhSarbklImKtgcsMf4ubQ)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)
One more bevel, for good measure - bulkhead 4 (if I remember correctly):
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SRefp4cheFI/AAAAAAAAC1s/3fPYuMgFBdo/s400/IMG_0008.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/beubkBwb6WJ4OzlkzdCPVw)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)

I cut the tiller hole in the transom. This was a pain - I tried doing it from the inside of the transom first. It was very difficult to cut out the end curves as the top frame interfered with the jigsaw. I tried taking the base off the jigsaw, but it was still difficult. I was not happy with my first effort, so I oversized the hole by about 2-3 mm top and bottom, keeping the over length very close. This time I lined everything out on the aft side of the transom and cutting out the hole was a breeze.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SRefr8X0eZI/AAAAAAAAC10/HKkAVKDs0zc/s400/IMG_0014.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2CA4EZpYIWA4V3yPm8YaAw)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)

And finally... the bulkheads and transom fore to aft (not necessarily facing the right direction):
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SReftk9aV9I/AAAAAAAAC18/jrmcDcBBNeQ/s400/IMG_0015-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eoog4KEiAAjsvyGkLxsj_Q)From Goat Island Skiff 9 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff9Nov08)

CCBB
12th November 2008, 02:51 PM
Jamie, Progress, man, progress! Way to keep going through the struggles.

Keep us posted

Boatmik
12th November 2008, 09:08 PM
It is rather exciting!!!

Now did I mention I have an additional drawing for a birdsmouth mast?

As of thisafternoon. All plan holders can have a copy if they want.

MIK

jboats
13th November 2008, 11:14 AM
12 November 2008

Chine logs, Gunwales, and Inwales (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/11/chine-logs-gunwales-and-inwales.html)

I finally found a good source of Western Red Cedar, after searching four or five other local lumber yards. Channel Lumber (http://www.channellumber.com/framerght.htm) is in Richmond, CA, right down the street from Handloggers (http://www.handloggerslumber.com/home.shtml), which is where I picked up the marine plywood. Had I only known they were right next store to each other! The folks at Channel were real easy to work with - the WRC comes rough, so for a small feet ($40), they surfaced it and cut it to spec for me. They also had the lengths I was I looking for in the WRC and the doug fir, all with nice clear, vertical grain. I'll go back, even if it is a bit out of the way for me. Only wood left to get is the white oak for the runners and gunwale caps (or other hardwood here, haven't decided).

A few good work sessions, and there might be something resembling a Goat Island Skiff in our garage.

I plan to dry fit everything together (excluding the bottom), then pull it apart, epoxy, and then glue back together. Then the bottom will go on, dryfit, pull off, epoxy and back on with glue.

BobWes
13th November 2008, 01:02 PM
Jamie -

Good looking progress - despite the difficulties! Thanks for the leads for materials, it never hurts to have more than one source.

I can get WRC and clear Douglas fir at New Home Builders Supply (no website) in Sacramento. They can also order okoume plywood but don't stock it (quoted $70.56 a sheet yesterday). I plan to use Hughes Hardwood, in Rancho Cordova, for my hardwood needs. They have okoume ply so I can do some price shopping for that but I'll need to update their $60 a sheet quote from 2 months ago.

A friend of mine has offered the use of his band saw and planer for milling the lumber down to proper size, so perhaps I can save a few dollars.

Mik -

You've been busy what with the RAID design and the birdsmouth mast drawing! While I am planning to build the square sectioned mast, I wouldn't mind having the drawing for the birdsmouth mast. How can I get that drawing?

Thanks.

Bob

jboats
14th November 2008, 04:36 AM
MIK and others...

To glue the chinelogs to the sides, is the preferable method to use clamps and weights or to use screws (mentioned in the text of the plans)? If using screws, is it advisable to drive the screws from the outside in, or inside out (outside being the hull side)?

Thanks!
Jamie

Boatmik
14th November 2008, 07:40 AM
Howdy Jamie,

There is no preference about the clamping method. I usually just use the screws because they do such a good job and if spaced neatly no-one is ever going to see the holes that they are removed from. Or you are probably going to paint the outside of the hull anyhow.

The screws should always go into the plywood side first.

Make sure you lay everything out as mirror images.

Michael

CCBB
14th November 2008, 10:34 AM
Make a stick maybe 6" long and use that to space the screws evenly. Often we do a combo method...screws every 6-8" and squeeze clamps (strong ones) or c-clamps in between the screws to get a nice even glue joint.

Clint

Boatmik
14th November 2008, 10:54 AM
Howdy,

Clint knows what he means.

For people reading, it is important not to overclamp epoxy - it doesnt' need or want high clamping pressures. I adapt the screw spacings to the job. Sometimes it is not very hard to hold things down well enough so then the screws can go further apart.. I rarely use any clamps at all.

With other glues you DO need to use lots of pressure.

Best wishes
Michael

jboats
14th November 2008, 01:31 PM
Jamie -

Good looking progress - despite the difficulties! Thanks for the leads for materials, it never hurts to have more than one source.

I can get WRC and clear Douglas fir at New Home Builders Supply (no website) in Sacramento. They can also order okoume plywood but don't stock it (quoted $70.56 a sheet yesterday). I plan to use Hughes Hardwood, in Rancho Cordova, for my hardwood needs. They have okoume ply so I can do some price shopping for that but I'll need to update their $60 a sheet quote from 2 months ago.

A friend of mine has offered the use of his band saw and planer for milling the lumber down to proper size, so perhaps I can save a few dollars.


Bob-

If you get down this way and want to stop by, let me know. Unfortunately, I won't make it to the EBS over at the K-Circus pub tomorrow, so we will have to catch up another time. I'd be happy to point out anything I learned while building.

-Jamie

BobWes
15th November 2008, 08:59 AM
Jamie -

Thanks for the invite. I do get down your way once in a while. Karen's parents live in Pleasant Hill. I'd like to visit with you and see your GIS under construction. I'll give you a head's up next time I plan to be in the area (for more than a few hours.)

I am going to K-Circus this evening to meet that group but I'm heading back to Sacramento tonight.

Keep up with the progress and keep us posted!

Bob

jboats
18th November 2008, 10:31 AM
17 November 2008

With a stock pile of wood lying about, it was hard to contain my excitement and focus on one item. My first order of business was the chinelogs. During the week I cut them to size for each side. Saturday morning, I decided that I would do one chinelog at a time - this would help me keep my focus and keep me from rushing.

The chinelog should extend out past the bottom of the hull side by 10 mm. I marked each of the guidelines previously drawn on the hull sides, and marked them at 35 mm. The chinelog was then clamped in to position.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBGA1jQqI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/u0nx8ZEUZf4/s400/IMG_0015-2.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bWDQW2_nzZNVzKo278pnAA)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
Using a suggestion from Clint over on the Michael Storer forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=79794&page=5), I cut a piece of scrap to 6". I then marked and drilled holes every 6" along the length of the chinelong, drilling in from the plywood side (outboard side). The scrap I used was the same width of the chinelog. I drew a centerline on the scrap piece, then aligned the bottom of the scrap with the bottom edge of the chinelog as I moved along the side. This way I knew I was getting the center of the chinelog when I drilled the holes. I marked the drill bit to a 1/2 inch with masking tape to ensure that I did not drill through the chinelog.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBIIYQjfI/AAAAAAAAC3Y/PxjDkt3uOuU/s400/IMG_0016-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2YMtx1DQQ-DaG50LOxvcnA)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
After drilling the holes, I laid out the screws with the plywood washers, backed with packing tape to prevent sticking to the side.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBKmNfzxI/AAAAAAAAC3g/QLUCMny-_7s/s400/IMG_0017.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UMzGMCX9pmx0oEAfgD_acg)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
Then I did a dry run. After the dry run, I moved everything out of the sun and into the garage (and laundry room). I taped off the inboard side above the chinelog to make clean up easier.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBNcEW2EI/AAAAAAAAC3w/NViJDmASRr0/s400/IMG_0021-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RmRKPf6CQ791hVP2WJEWuA)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
Then I let it rip with the epoxy mixture.... here it is finished off:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBLxB3XgI/AAAAAAAAC3o/wggnoOcc8vA/s400/IMG_0019.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qvQuu1s3T3ajiIbRt2-FKQ)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
I only finished one side on Saturday, so I must finish the other side sometime this week.

I then turned to other work. Earlier in the week, I discovered that the deckplates I bought (6") where too big for the #4 bulkhead (note, if anybody needs a 6" deckplate let me know, I have two extras). I ordered a couple four inch deck plates from Redden Marine Supply (http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/index.cfm)up in Bellingham, WA. I cut the holes for them in the #4 bulkhead.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBPNLeuRI/AAAAAAAAC34/tSTj1tu4zvM/s400/IMG_0022-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fwzfkT2Jwwn2VaNnr21O8A)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSEBQ0jrXUI/AAAAAAAAC4A/8usScdpEGI0/s400/IMG_0023-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3hAjyTRYw4UbnLx1_SU_7w)From Goat Island Skiff 16 Nov 08 (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiff16Nov08)
I received the new deck plates today, and I think I need to enlarge the holes by a 1/2". I cut them to 4" based on the spec, and it needs a 4 1/2" hole. Easy to remedy.

I have been itching to get going on the centerboard and rudder. I set up the table saw and cut the frames for the center board case (which I had forgotten to do earlier), then I cut a bunch of WRC 2" x 4"s to size for the centerboard. I ran out of stock for the rudder about halfway through. One more trip to the lumber store. I also need to change out the blade on my tablesaw to a 10" blade so that I can cut each piece of the centerboard to 24 mm thick.

I cut the blank for the stem. This week I hope to get some work done shaping it. I will chronicle the stem work and post the pictures on a separate post.

It is very relaxing to work on the GIS. Difficult enough for a first-timer to be challenging, but nothing that is overwhelming. Mistakes, as I can attest to firsthand, can be easily overcome.

BobWes
18th November 2008, 12:55 PM
Jamie... I don't much like sounding like a stuck record, but Thank You! Your blog and posts are becoming a valuable tutorial to accompany Mik's excellent plans.

Just today at lunch (I've begun carrying the plans with me to work) I was reading about installing the chinelogs - and struggling a bit to "see" what was supposed to happen (first read). Then, I get home this afternoon and you've got that section illustrated with pics! Cleared it right up for me. Thank you.

Even without a "proper" work space, I am dangerously close to starting my foils...

Bob

Boatmik
18th November 2008, 03:41 PM
keep going guys ... you are both magnificent!!!

Michael

MiddleAgesMan
19th November 2008, 07:20 AM
That stem can be tricky so take it slow and easy. It's been about a year since I made mine but here is what I recall of the process.

I cut it just slightly overlength for starters, maybe a half inch total. I then drew the shape of the top and bottom on the ends (they are different). In shaping to the end-drawings I stopped a little short of the lines on the top and took away all of the lines on the bottom. This meant when the top end was trimmed about 1/4 inch the size got smaller and was about right at the new length; the opposite happens when you trim the bottom--it gets a tad bigger because of the taper. As you know from the instructions it's a little bigger at the top than at the bottom.

IIRC I just got down to it with my electric hand plane, first taking a little more off the bottom, thinner end. The angle of the plane isn't a big deal at first but as you get closer to the final size you have to make sure you adjust it (the angle) so you finish with an end-to-end pass that hits the layout lines.

Oh, one more thing, don't cut to the final fore-aft dimension until you are finished shaping it. I had enough extra width for clamping it for planing. I drew a line representing the final size and worked to the line for the wide point and to a centerline representing the forward point on the adjacent side. If you've already sized it you can attach a piece of scrap to the after face and use that for clamping.

The experts probably have better ways but that's what this novice did.

jboats
19th November 2008, 09:24 AM
Thanks MAM... I cut the blank for the stem a bit oversize hopefully it is enough. I remember from the LYS I started on the importance of leaving some extra for clamping. And going slow.

I don't have an electric plane so I will be doing it with a jigsaw and block plane. The WRC seems fairly easy to work with, I will just make sure I go nice and slow.

Bob - I will post my experiences with the stem when I finish it, and will hopefully have a nice set of pictures to go with it.

Not sure how much work I will get done in the next couple of weeks, the folks are coming in for Thanksgiving. Maybe I can put them to work while they are here. They restored a couple of woodies when I was a kid, a 25' Trojan, and a 28' Chris Craft. My first boat was a 16' Lyman we bought for $175 and brought back to life.

jboats
25th November 2008, 09:41 AM
The comments in the post above from MAM were very useful. Here are my attempts at the GIS stem:

24 November 2008

The Stem - In Three Parts (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/11/stem-in-three-parts.html)

Sunday I had plenty of chores to do, but I worked in enough to time to complete gluing up the chine log on the remaining hull side (no photos - see last post). Then I cut and shaped the stem.

The stem proved to be a challenge. Lucky for me, I had some extra WRC laying about the garage. My first two attempts were not quite spectacular failures.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSox3xp_MhI/AAAAAAAAC7I/TKmly5sFql0/s400/IMG_0014-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WPnAMcGWjQylBnOhiIVWsw)From Goat Island Skiff Stem (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffStem)

Finally, on the third attempt I ended up with a stem I was satisfied with:

The blank from WRC, from the first attempt. You will notice that I didn't leave much extra length for clamping:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSoxsg-OllI/AAAAAAAAC6c/usDP2XKVaGc/s400/IMG_0024-1.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DEOwHlI4au_R1gzu6A7DAQ)From Goat Island Skiff Stem (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffStem)

The aft side lay out - I used a sharpie so that it was easy to see the lines. This is from the second attempt - I left extra length top and bottom. I found the bottom length not really necessary and cut it off.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSoxvBWvCzI/AAAAAAAAC6k/jXT2-JNojHQ/s400/IMG_0009.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UGyZLY1-sky8SPoWu8iSaw)From Goat Island Skiff Stem (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffStem)

The centerline of the foreward side:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSoxxN38EtI/AAAAAAAAC6w/0yZGze2VVxk/s400/IMG_0010.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DGUQzR4htcCKrGesOp74pg)From Goat Island Skiff Stem (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffStem)
The end result - the square top section will be cut off after the fit up:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SSox0svQiNI/AAAAAAAAC7A/ljysa6YsqPc/s400/IMG_0012.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WM1yFr8fwiDliMrmtv__Yg)From Goat Island Skiff Stem (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffStem)

The method that worked best for me was to use the jigsaw set to the bevel of the bottom section (22 mm wide aft, to centerline front), then cut to the mark up to the top (36 mm wide). This left extra material to remove where the bevel changes.

To remove the extra material, I used (carefully) a sharp chisel to remove a bit more material, getting it close. In retrospect, I think a spoke shave would have been better, but I inexplicably forgot that I owned a spokeshave. Too bad, as I like using it. After the chisel, I used the block plane to finish it off. The WRC is easy to work with with both the plane and chisel.

Attempts 1 and 2 were similar. Attempt #1 was close to perfect, but feeling good, and wanting to do better, I pushed it a bit too far with the chisel. In to the burn pile. Attempt #2 I tried a different method - I used the pull saw to mark hash marks along the length, from the front to back. Then I followed along with the chisel. Here again, the chisel can be dangerous, and I took out a large chunk of wood that I did not want to.

By the third attempt, I was very, very careful with the chisel, using it only to take off small pieces at time along the front centerline, then using the plane to do the rest. It didn't take long and was enjoyable work (I didn't mind starting over twice).

MiddleAgesMan
26th November 2008, 12:55 AM
It will be very difficult to trim the top after the fit up unless you mean a dry fit. The breast hook should run across the top of the stem piece so the top needs an angle to match the slope of the sides at the bow and should be set 19mm below the top edges of the sides. You can let it run wild at the bottom then trim flush to take the bottom.

jboats
26th November 2008, 03:38 AM
Thanks MAM - as always, enlightening for me to find this out. I plan to do a dry fit, then trim the stem. Do you recommend trimming the stem straight across at the top, then planing to fit the breast hook?

Have a great Thanksgiving.

BobWes
26th November 2008, 11:51 AM
Jamie,

Thanks for an illustrated account of your adventures making the stem. I have to say your explanation, together with MAM's comments, and pictures helped me "see" what I wasn't quite getting from the plans. Very helpful indeed. You have no idea - well, maybe you do - how much help you have helped me. And I haven't even started cutting lumber!

Bob

MiddleAgesMan
26th November 2008, 10:45 PM
The top surface of the stem piece needs to be sloped the same as the top edge of the side strakes at the bow. It should not run to the top of the sides but stop short by the thickness of the breast hook--19mm per the materials list. Some have just added the breast hook on top of everything but it looks nicer to have everything flush at the bow.

CCBB
27th November 2008, 12:09 AM
MAM, where are you at on your boat?

MiddleAgesMan
27th November 2008, 04:29 AM
I'm hoping to get a couple coats of varnish on the interior and gunwales and then I'll turn it over for one more primer coat and two coats of Perfection. At that point I'll be ready to mount the rudder box which is built as are the foils. I've also shaped and epoxied the yard and boom so I have all of the components on hand except for the mast.

Boatmik
27th November 2008, 08:05 AM
The top surface of the stem piece needs to be sloped the same as the top edge of the side strakes at the bow. It should not run to the top of the sides but stop short by the thickness of the breast hook--19mm per the materials list. Some have just added the breast hook on top of everything but it looks nicer to have everything flush at the bow.

Agree ... did the plans say to do that?

Michael

MiddleAgesMan
27th November 2008, 09:38 AM
I don't recall if it was mentioned or not, MIK. It just seems it has to be done that way unless you are OK with one stuck on top of everything or if you're OK with having the end grain of the stem piece exposed. Neither seemed like a good idea to me.

I had trouble getting it exactly right on my pirogue and then again on the GIS. The angle was slightly off on both but thickened epoxy took care of things.

Boatmik
27th November 2008, 05:30 PM
Good hint about the thickened epoxy ... just added this text to the assembly instructions (how did I overlook!!!


First the Stem needs to be trimmed to allow for the bow knee later. Hold it alongside the side panel as in the diagram right. The back edge of the stem's bottom end lines up with the ply. (Fig 8). Mark this clearly. Without moving the stem mark the stem with the position of the side panel sheerline (top end of stem).

The stem needs to be trimmed 18mm shorter than this measurement to allow for the bow knee to be fitted above it.

BobWes
27th November 2008, 05:52 PM
Good question, Mik! :)

I've been going back and forth between this thread and the plans looking for how to install the "breast hook." I may be slow, but I am sorta persistent so it took me a short while to find the illustrated part about installing the "bow knee" (I like pictures), Whew, I felt relieved... until I realized I wasn't seeing what MAM was describing. Good to know I found the right place in the plans and that there is help right here! It is also good to know I didn't miss something the first dozen or so times I've read through the plans.

With Jamie and MAM pointing out their errors and sharing how they took care of them, I am left to wonder just what original mistakes I will make along the way! :)

As an aside: I haven't solved my housing situation just yet, but I am just about ready to start the foils.

Bob

MiddleAgesMan
27th November 2008, 06:04 PM
18mm is better. Assuming a 19mm thick bow knee you'll have a little excess you can plane and sand to give the top of the knee a little crown.

Boatmik
28th November 2008, 08:46 AM
Archie ,,, how much crown ... I may as well try to get it right!!!

Michael

MiddleAgesMan
28th November 2008, 10:39 AM
Well, if the knee is 19mm thick and sitting with its bottom 18mm below the top edge you'll be able to get a 1mm crown...a 20mm thick knee set the same would give you 2mm crown... ;)

I don't have the skill and patience to shape a smooth crown so I just rounded off around the edges and the center is still pretty close to flat.

Boatmik
28th November 2008, 12:54 PM
OK ... that is OK MAM ... just wanted to make sure that it wasn't 6mm needed (I can't see that it would be!)

Michael

MiddleAgesMan
28th November 2008, 11:11 PM
If someone wanted a lot of crown they wouldn't want to set a 19mm knee up there 5 or 6mm proud of the top edge of the sides. Once shaped there would only be about 12mm left bonded to the sides. Since the gunwales have pretty much leveled out as they come together at the bow a very small crown is all that's needed IMHO.

When I put mine in I was shooting for flush but the imperfect angle on top of the stem piece set mine up about a millimeter. I was OK with it since it forced me to try to work a little crown into the knee.

Boatmik
29th November 2008, 12:04 AM
yes ... thanks for that.

Michael

jboats
19th December 2008, 08:03 AM
18 December 2008

The No Update Update (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2008/12/no-update-update.html)

Life is conspiring against boat building right now.

The holidays have caused a brief, and expected, slowdown...

Thanksgiving was a let down - my dad and I headed to the garage to do the dry fit of hull and frames. It didn't take long to crush the excitement I felt walking out the garage, picturing the GIS assembled in front of me. We quickly found that I had assembled the hullsides as exact matches, not mirror images (which MIK goes out of the way to warn about in the directions). Embarrassing more than anything. So a simple task overlooked. But, minor delays. So we worked on the hollow mast, marking out the measurements. I'll cover that in another post, so as to have a complete post on the mast building process.

The major delay...

Last week I prepared my next shopping list for the lumber yard... including the bits to re-do the hullside (it gives me a pain in my stomach every time I think of this). I was looking forward to getting after it again. Friday night as I sat on the couch with my wife, silently counting down the hours to my trip to the lumberyard, there was a knock on the door.

Our landlord was outside. The news was not good. Seems he got upside down in real estate market. Sold his current residence, and was moving in our house. We have until the 15th of January to move out, and in the meantime, he and his family are living in the 1 bedroom apartment above our garage. Instead of going to Channel Lumber (http://www.channellumber.com/framerght.htm), I spent the weekend (minus a football game on Sunday) looking for housing. Did I mention my wife is 17 weeks pregnant?

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SUq5BPOIuuI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/OvloGl316u4/s320/baby+12+weeks.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SUq5BPOIuuI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/OvloGl316u4/s1600-h/baby+12+weeks.JPG)
The ultrasound is the 12 week ultrasound. Due date is 26 May 2009. Scary and exciting.

I'll be back at it soon with updates to follow. Happy holidays to all

CCBB
19th December 2008, 04:10 PM
I've done that mistake before, with the side planks!

Wow, you have some serious lemons being thrown at you. This is another reason you've chosen a great boat to build, it is a big project but after you've made lemonade with all these lemons you can get back into it and see progress quickly again.

All the best, can congrats on the baby. We will be getting a call from China someday to come get a sister for Oliver. Could be 3 months, could be a year. Should be able to sneak a Goat in there :)

Cheers,
Clint

BobWes
20th December 2008, 12:44 PM
Jamie,

Sorry to hear how life is treating you right now. I was feeling sorry for myself about not having a place to build my GS, but I don't think I'd trade places with you.

Congratulations to you and your wife on the baby!

Good luck to you, too!

Bob

Boatmik
22nd December 2008, 07:21 AM
Ah Jamie, Glad the boat is still at the flat stage - will increase your options with the move etc.

Congratulations to you and your wife too ... a baby! I will bet it will be a little bit easier to name than the boat!

Here are some names I would not recommend for the child
Intrepid
Resolute
American Eagle
USS Constitution
Morning Cloud.

And many human names don't suit boats
Trevor
Errol
Sharon

But it is such a matter of taste ... that maybe I am wrong!

Keep plugging away .. and best wishes to you and your family!

Michael

jboats
17th April 2009, 06:32 AM
I've been motivated by the recent flurry of Goat building taking place around here (MAM, Bob W, Juan Carlos, Bjarne, SOLing)! Enough excuses, I am finally making progress again! Life will change dramatically next month with the arrival of our first baby, so this might be short lived. I am trying to gather all of the remaining necessary materials I need so that I can work in short burst as time allows.

Good to be back at it (for now)!

15 April 2009

Back in Action (http://fessendenboat.blogspot.com/2009/04/back-in-action.html)

I am slowly returning to work on the GIS. Currently tackling small tasks that can be completed with out re-arranging the garage every time I have a few hours to work.

I started with the centerboard. I cut the blanks to 24 mm. Then I set about gluing them up.


Dry fit, lining up the blanks:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SdWfQFosWII/AAAAAAAADvE/LfnkJ0gcJX0/s400/IMG_0012-1.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZMWAEfGPzei3p-RqbPHagQ?feat=embedwebsite)From Goat Island Skiff Centerboard (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffCenterboard?feat=embedwebsite)
Turned up, ready for epoxy (except this picture is missing the plastic between the sawhorse and blank):
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SdWfS-CWNxI/AAAAAAAADvM/GD4OoH4U_g4/s400/IMG_0013-1.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zolOvtYSzsmdbF2tqbKRTw?feat=embedwebsite)From Goat Island Skiff Centerboard (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffCenterboard?feat=embedwebsite)
Glued up:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SdWfU3yuSPI/AAAAAAAADvU/X59_bxrwSso/s400/IMG_0014-2.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sPMB2-Wa5ZtBEBf4BN5iYA?feat=embedwebsite)From Goat Island Skiff Centerboard (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffCenterboard?feat=embedwebsite)
(notice the shop supervisor, Hank)...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_N9BdRI-6unA/SdWfXAo2oLI/AAAAAAAADvc/JVw3xx4cPzw/s400/IMG_0015-3.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lkp2TLZiXzYGRSTfZOHIZQ?feat=embedwebsite)From Goat Island Skiff Centerboard (http://picasaweb.google.com/jamiefessenden/GoatIslandSkiffCenterboard?feat=embedwebsite)

If I had to do it again, I would clamp it side to side, like I did, and add a vertical clamp set-up, like this (http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik/1594895661/in/set-72157602972202430/) and this (http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik/1595793062/in/set-72157602972202430/). I was so focused on the horizontal direction, I didn't put a lot of thought into the vertical direction. Lucky for me, it turned out straight and nearly level.

I don't have a thickness planer, which is why I left the blanks at 24 mm. I figured I would hand plane the flat section of the centerboard to the 22 mm required. The templates provided in the plans make it fairly straight forward to shape the foil. The biggest limitation is my still developing plane techniques. I will be painting the centerboard foil to ensure that I have the smoothest possible finish.

I am close to hitting the final shape. I am finding the trailing edge is taking longer, but I am close. I will post pictures prior to doing any epoxy/fiberglass work.

I have also cut the wide staves for the hollow mast to size using the router. I'll cover the mast work in another post once I get further along.

Building will continue to be slow - launch of the baby is due in 6 weeks!