Genno (japanese Hammers)

[sinjin]

Can anyone explain how Japanese hammers differ to western hammers for woodwork. And some of these hammers are quite expensive so are they like Chisels etc...the more you pay the better they are.
Thanks

[Sheets]

Have a look at this:
http://web.mac.com/nami_aru/Daiku/Genno.html

Like most Japanese hand-forged tools, the basics are the same, but the skill, experience and time involved affect how much the tool costs. I don't think that there will be a significant difference in performance (at least, not to the the average non-Japanese user) that comes with increased cost. Maybe someone out there has used enough to say that there is.

Steve

[Pam]

I think the more expensive genno and daruma have soft steel cores wrapped with hard steel shells.

Pam

[wilburpan]

I don't know how different this is from a western style hammer, but if you look at the head of a Japanese hammer closely, one side is flat and the other is very slightly convex. I use the convex side for tapping on chisels, as the rounded shape concentrates the blow of the hammer. I'm not exactly sure what the flat side is reserved for -- perhaps driving nails.

[Woodjoint]

I just have a feeling that I like the balance and power of a Japanese hammer for chisel work and my only reasoning is I just like them. I also have this knowledge of the way Japanese think about these things and it's just that these tools are the way they are because they have been developed over years to do their jobs and they just do that job well and the Japanese unlike us western don't ask why. They just are.

Wilbur I have always used the flat edge for hitting chisels and the convex edge for driving nails (not many) because the rounded shape is less likey to leave a dent on the wood when you drive the nail home. If you are slightly off when you hit the nail the convex edge is a little more forgiving where the flat edge if slightly off will leave a mark.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.:~

[Claw Hama]

Woodjoint is all over it, yes the flat side is for chisels and the convex for nails I love my Genno and use it all the time. Not that I drive many nails all glued joints with the occasional screw. A lot of the time I use the convex side for chisels if I am just tapping lightly as the angle doesn't have to be so exact. If I am hitting hard I go back to the flat. I also use it a lot for thise light tapping jobs wher you might want to bump something home. I work mainly with hardwood so I have a quite heavy one at about 450grams a lot of people use much lighter gennos. And they are hand made with blood and sweat just like the things you are making. I find all my japanese tools have more sole which puts more feeling into you own work.

[Claw Hama]

Sorry didn't mean to get all deep and meaningful on you.:B

[sinjin]

Thanks for all the advise. For those interested in Japanese tools.
There is a link to one of the planers Desk was talking about on his thread under powertools of one being demo'd on Youtube.
I came across these planers about 30 yrs ago and a tool shop in Melb. I would have bought it on the spot but the guy wouldn,t even turn it on so i went cold on the idea.
Then about 14 months ago i guess i was hanging around the Japanese woodwork forum and found a link to these machines once again. A few on that forum have them.
So my search began and after many calls and E-mails overseas i found a machine and bought one in NSW.
It needs a little cleaning up before i can use it by i am wrapped to get one.
For those interested in the hand planed finish of japanese woodwork i think will be impressed with these machines.
Once again thanks for the tips.
Sinjin

[Des.K.]

Hi Sinjin

Generally, the flat part is used for chisels, and driving nails almost to the level of the timber, then the rounded head is used to drive the nail home so there's no damage to the surrounding timber. The rounded head is also used for adjusting plane blades - used on the blade and the plane body. It's also used to "kill" (soften) wood fibres. I use the flat head to adjust the chipbreaker into its correct position near the edge of the blade.

Technically, the different weights of genno have different uses, but as with most things, people have their favourite tools that they go to first. I have several genno of different weights, but always seem to use the same one.

Genno are laminated, but these days you gan also get them in stainless steel. In most cases, the more you pay the better the genno - shape, balance, finish, fit of the handle, and the handle itself. A couple of weeks ago I went into a tool shop in a town quite famous for its wood carving here in Toyama, and saw gennos there that wouldn't have given too much change from about $100. If SWMBO wasn't with me giving me a stern look of disapproval, I probably would have bought one. It just felt different. That's about the best way I can explain it. It seemed so balanced.

Regards
Des

[wilburpan]

Obviously, I'll have to try using the other side of my hammer. :wink:

However, I use a wooden mallet to tap the main blade of a plane and the dai to back out the blade, not a metal hammer. Hopefully this will avoid mushrooming the blade or the back of the dai.

[NeilS]

However, I use a wooden mallet to tap the main blade of a plane and the dai to back out the blade, not a metal hammer. Hopefully this will avoid mushrooming the blade or the back of the dai.

Wilbur - That's also my practice. A small hardwood mallet does the job perfectly well. Made my own... same profile and size as genno (flat face one end, domed the other). I use the domed end on the back heel of dai to avoid denting. The flat square end also does a good job on setting chip breakers.

Neil

[derekcohen]

Yep. I use a 450 gm genno for the nomi - nice solid thunk.

I have a 275 gm as well, originally for plane blades, but no longer use it for that. Now it is reserved for small brads - and.. yes.. domed side is used to finish off what the flat side starts.

As for plane hammers, I have one I bought from Dave Anderson (Chester Tool Works) in brass and wood ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Planemallet1.jpg

...and one I made a smaller, lighter one out of brass and leather...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Planemallet4.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Planemallet3.jpg

I can heartedly recommend Dave's mallet for planes - wood for adjusting, brass for blade. For chisels I will stick with my heavier nomi.

Regards from Perth

Derek