Boring hole for Salt and Pepper Grinders

[Fireguard]

I've just been having a go at making a set of salt and pepper grinder, SWMBO really likes them and has been showing them off... the only problem is, now everyone she's shown them to wants a set... Turning them was the easy bit, but does anybody have any tips for boring the hole through the centre. I managed to do it with the two that I've made, but I'm not really happing with the end result and it took me a LONG time to do. How go you guys bore the hole through the middle ??? :?:?

[Ed Reiss]

Turning them was the easy bit, but does anybody have any tips for boring the hole through the centre. I managed to do it with the two that I've made, but I'm not really happing with the end result and it took me a LONG time to do.

Rob...
It might be of help if you told us the procedure your using now.

[joe greiner]

Straight boring in end grain can be purgatorial. Here's a discussion about using Forstner bits, with a procedure I've used; tedious, but effective (longish 5th paragraph): http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=44107

Joe

[Calm]

Having purchased my "kit" from Jim i was given a picture on doing them. I bored the 25 mm hole from the bottom and used a steady half way along to help it stay central. It wasnt bad but when i finished it from the top there was a slight peice of off centre that i just left as it wont effect the end result.

I am going to have a go at a couple more tomorrow so hopefully it will work again.

Cheers

[Fireguard]

I was trying to drill my holes using my drill press, it's only a benchtop GMC version so with the bit in there isn't enough room to for the wood underneath so i pushed the base plate around 90degress and clamped it to my bench so my spade bit and extension bar hung over the edge of my bench,

I initaily drilled at 3mm hole with a twist bit, then using the longest and smallest spade bit i have (8mm x32cm long) drilled through, I drilled the 50mm stroke that the press has, then jacked up the wood from below then drilled again and continued this process till i got all the way through.

Once i got all the way through i changed to my 22mm spade (normal length bit plus extension bar and hole final dimension required) then repeated the process.

Took a long time and was a pain in the rear, especially when i needed to clear the bore hole of chips every 1/2 inch and reset all the wood blocks holding my project up, in the end i ended up just hanging onto the wood and pushing it up onto the bit.

[weisyboy]

i normally use an auger bit. its easiest to drill the hole first then turn it between centers the hole has to be in the center.

[macca2]

I drill from one end using a forstner bit followed by a spade bit. Turn it around and rechuck it and do the same from other end.
Macca

[DJ’s Timber]

I do mine on the lathe using Sawtooth bits with an extension such as this, which is available from Carbatec

http://www.carbatec.com.au/images/product/EXTN-1.jpg

[Pat]

McJing has a MT2 (http://www.mcjing.com.au/woodworking/index.htm) version for use in your tailstock.


<table width="641" border="0" height="1"><tbody><tr background="../image/newrow.jpg"><td colspan="6" width="632" align="left" background="../image/newrow.jpg" bgcolor="#008080" height="1"> EXTENSION BAR </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" width="330" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="1"> http://www.mcjing.com.au/woodworking/forstner/images/9.jpg </td> <td colspan="3" width="298" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="1"> Item 10290 comes with 3/8" & 1/2" collar ( imperial ) and 8mm, 10mm & 1/2" collar ( metric ) . Suggestion: Make a little bit flat on round forstner bit shank to stop spinning.</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="78" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="16">ITEM NO.</td> <td width="179" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="16">DESCRIPTION</td> <td width="68" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="16">WEIGHT</td> <td width="88" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="16">PRICE</td> <td valign="center" width="99" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="16">QUANTITY</td> <td valign="center" width="103" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="16">ORDER NOW</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="78" align="center" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="22"> 10291</td> <td width="179" align="center" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="22"> 3/8" , Hex Shank, Overall=300mm </td> <td width="68" align="center" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="22"> 200g</td> <td width="88" align="center" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="22">$10.00</td> <td valign="center" width="99" align="center" bgcolor="#e8e8e8" height="22">
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http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/EXTENSION%20BAR%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Item%2010290%20comes%20with%203/8%22%20&%201/2%22%20collar%20%28%20imperial%20%29%20and%208mm,%2010mm%20&%201/2%22%20collar%20%28%20metric%20%29%20%20.%20Suggestion:%20Make%20a%20little%20bit%20flat%20on%20round%20forstner%20bit%20shank%20to%20stop%20spinning.%20ITEM%20NO.%20DESCRIPTION%20WEIGHT%20PRICE%20QUANTITY%20ORDER%20NOW%2010291%203/8%22%20,%20Hex%20Shank,%20Overall=300mm%20%20200g%20$10.00%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%2010290%20MT.2%20shank,%20Overall=300mm%20%20600g%20$28.00

[DJ’s Timber]

McJing has a MT2 (http://www.mcjing.com.au/woodworking/index.htm) version for use in your tailstock.


That's the one I've got :2tsup:, except I had mine made by a mate quite a few years ago

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Ditto. I use the same sort of setup... also home-made. :2tsup:

I try to avoid macca's method of boring from both ends, it only takes a minor deviation to have the two bores misalign.

I'll persevere boring from just one end, even though it means frequently needing to slide the tailstock back to scavenge out the shavings.

[Ed Reiss]

Rob...you might just check with an electrician friend...they would have as part of their kit long drill bits (12-18 inch long) which might work good for the drilling.

[Rookie]

I try to avoid macca's method of boring from both ends, it only takes a minor deviation to have the two bores misalign.



Skew, I read somewhere here once that a mis-alignment doesn't really matter because you never see it and it shouldn't affect operation.

Your thoughts on that would be good because I've never done any S&P shakers. I have the kits and SWMBO bought me a Forstner set for fathers day so it's good to know these things.

[weisyboy]

you are right a slight misalignment wont matter and only a wood turner would notice. the shaft is only 1/4" so as long as there is a 1/4" hole down the center it should work.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Sorry Weisy, but I gotta disagree.

For a pepper mill it's not so bad, but salt is hygroscopic. ie. it'll suck the moisture out of the atmosphere. I'm sure we all know that this makes it tend to lump up... and, if you have ridges inside the mill can you guess where it'll most likely start to build up?

Now, this'll also happen if you don't have any ridges, but if you've made a pair as a gift or for sale then when the new owner has to scrape out old, clumpy salt (and it will happen, sooner or later) they will notice the ridge and their opinion of your turning skills will go down a notch. :doh:

So, no ridges. :no: Not if you take pride in your work and would like others to, too.

[thecopperfish]

i normally use an auger bit. its easiest to drill the hole first then turn it between centers the hole has to be in the center.

I'm new at this so could you please tell me how you mount it on the lathe after drilling the hole. Thanks,
Chris

[ss_11000]

I'm new at this so could you please tell me how you mount it on the lathe after drilling the hole. Thanks,
Chris
you could turn a plug out of some scrap, then its just a matter of turning it between centres:)

[Pat]

I dropped into McJings this morning and had a look at the MT2 extension, what a weighty beast. So I got one of them and one of the DP ones. I actually managed to walk out of there with my credit card not in melt down:U

I'll give them a go soon and report back.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I'm new at this so could you please tell me how you mount it on the lathe after drilling the hole. Thanks,
Chris

As Stirlo said. One improvement is to make the plugs into bushes to go onto a mandrel made out of endless thread. :)

[Grumpy John]

As Stirlo said. One improvement is to make the plugs into bushes to go onto a mandrel made out of endless thread. :)

Hmmmm endless thread is that like "The Neverending Story" ? :wink:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Why didn't I see that coming? :doh:

[joe greiner]

I'm new at this so could you please tell me how you mount it on the lathe after drilling the hole. Thanks,
Chris

Make or buy a revolving "cone centre" to attach to the tailstock live centre. Something like this: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Revolving_Centers___Revolving_Cone_Center___revolv_center_0100?Args=

For DIY, attach the blank to the live centre by removable means before turning the cone. DAMHIKT.

Joe

[thecopperfish]

Thanks for the replies, this is a great place to learn!
Chris