Making a router table

[JACM]

Hello,

This is my first post! I just joined the forums. I used to live in Tassie but I'm in SA now.

I have decided to make a router table and need some advice on the top. I have a triton router ready to fix underneath and I went to Richard Vaughans class at a wood work show a couple of years ago but I forgot to write down what he recommended for the top :(

From my research I've found that it might not be a good idea to make the table too big. What size works well?
Having it flat is really important I guess. What material would be recommended? I have some 3/4 inch ply that looks pretty good but maybe I should get some MDF and laminate it and strength it be fixing the ply to the underside edges?

I really am a bit of a newbie and am learning by myself for the last 3-4 years. I reckon I must have some pretty bad habits!!

Any advice on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

James

PS I just found out I missed the wood show...DOH!

[bsrlee]

I'm at the 'round tuit' stage :B. My current plans are to make the top of 1 or 2 layers of 20mm CD ply with a sheet of laminate glued on top - will have to paint or laminate the back as well to stop it from curling up - then mounting this on a 'Norm'-ite pedestal with drawers/cupboards for storage built in & locking casters. I've got the aluminium router plate ready for my large Triton router - from PWS above, and a spare Triton power block for an on/off switch (Carbatec).

Ultimately it will fit between the fence rails on my tablesaw - there is nowhere else for it to live - and attach with some screws & inserts thru' the back rail so I can easily detach it & set it up as a separate work station if I want to but otherwise it will go around with the tablesaw - screwing it in place will mean that for some jobs I can use the table saw fence with a Wixey digital measuring dodad. I have the track to make a '#' shaped set of tracks for fences, hold-downs & jigs - I can envisage running jobs in just about every direction depending on the size of the job & where the cut has to be made.

[joe greiner]

I guess it depends on whether you want handsome tools, or just to get on with the business of producing. I threw together a "table" from a sink cutout with laminated (e.g. Formica (tm)) surface. Freehand routed a rebate to accept a stout plate of whateveritwas (some sort of desk chair riding surface; I forget what they're called). I attach it to a pair of sawhorses, and shim the legs to make it "flat." I made a movable fence for it. I routed a groove for a mitre protractor, but I've never used it. When not in use, I store the top vertically somewhere, and use the sawhorses for other things. Some day (hah!), I'll modify it to fit on a Workmate, but don't hold your breath.

[And welcome aboard, James.]

Joe

[David H]

Welcome James
If your interested get hold of Wood Review magazine No52 - it has a router table build by Richard Vaughan in it. I made the same one with a couple of mods from plan - whatever you do don't follow the cutting list in mag or you will end up with a table that is about 2ft too low. Check out the cutting list on Wood Review website for updated plans at http://www.woodreview.com.au/storyextras/RouterTable_cuttinglist.pdf
You can find some pics of my table in threads for router tables at http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=527117#post527117. Top was made from 33mm kitchen bench top with smooth laminate applied to top. Has plastic insert from Timbecon obtained at woodshow. Would like to change to metal one at some stage but as is it does work a treat.
Best of luck
David H

[JACM]

Thanks guys,

Great advice.I like the sink cut out with laminated surface idea (I thought about that too but I need to find one!!).

David H, I am impressed, your table looks GREAT. I don't know if I'll put the draws in but you've inspired me to do a good job now.

The links are very helpful. I'll have to track down that issue. I just started subscribing so maybe they'll send me a copy?

Also, what's this router plate/stout plate stuff? Do I need that or can I just countersink some screws/bolts to attached my router (after making a hole for the spinning thing of course:wink:)

Cheers

James

[joe greiner]

Although it requires an extra part, and an extra operation, the plate makes insertion easier. Also, it allows more bit projection above the table. The alternative is to support the router from below for attachment, with reduced projection. The latter limits the thickness of the workpiece. For maximum projection, replace the standard base riding surface with the plate. Also make the hole in the table large enough to accept the handles of the router, dropping in from above. With a rectangular plate, the handles can be located along the diagonal, then twisted to alignment after the handles have passed through.

[I didn't make that quite clear. The handles can be located parallel to the long side of the rectangle, with insertion on the diagonal of the hole.]

Joe

[David H]

James
If you are interested in Richards table send me a PM with email address and I will get a copy of article to you
David

[JACM]

Thanks Joe,

That makes perfect sense:2tsup:. I don't want to be tempted not to put the bit in all the way!!!! I'll check my router to see how far it comes out but the plate sounds like the go.
I especially got the triton router too because it will come all the way out and allow you to change bits from above the table. Richard Vaughan said it was the only router he knew that would do that....

David H, I'll send a message once I work out the PM thing.

James

[JACM]

Hey David H,

I can't send you a private message because it says you have either chosen not to recieve them or you are not allowed to when I try? (or maybe I can't send them).

Anyway. Can you post that article to [email protected] ?

I promise to post a picture when I'm finished if you promise not to laugh :U

cheers,

James

[David H]

James
Have sent you copy of article. Can't understand why PM thingy didn't work as I just checked settings and it tells me I can get PM from anyone? Go figure.
Anyway hope the article gets you motivated - you will find lots of different tables in the Router Forum if you have the time to gander for a day or two.
Am sure all would like to see a pic when your finished or even ones from start to finish.
David:2tsup:

[Johncs]

James
Have sent you copy of article. Can't understand why PM thingy didn't work as I just checked settings and it tells me I can get PM from anyone? Go figure.
Anyway hope the article gets you motivated - you will find lots of different tables in the Router Forum if you have the time to gander for a day or two.
Am sure all would like to see a pic when your finished or even ones from start to finish.
David:2tsup:

I've been perusing shopbuilt tables in another forum. I saw one made from an old sewing cabinet (old enough that my first glance reminded me of the old pedal Singer sewing machine Mum had in the 40s and 50s).

Another idea I picked up is to hinge the top (piano hinge) so you can lift it up and have at the machine easily.

[David H]

The table by Richard can be quite easily modified to have the table top lift up. I used some old door hinges on mine and it worked out fine. Just have to find a better way of propping up the table when open as it is quite heavy with router in it with thick top.
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<o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit">David</o:lock>

[Johncs]

The table by Richard can be quite easily modified to have the table top lift up. I used some old door hinges on mine and it worked out fine. Just have to find a better way of propping up the table when open as it is quite heavy with router in it with thick top.
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<o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit">David</o:lock>

Look at air-lift struts, like one finds at the back of station wagons, hatchbacks etc. Presumably those are too robust or long, but the idea's there.

A brace on a hinge, with a pocket to sit it up when the lid's up should be okay. If you think you might still knock it out, a pin to hold the loose end in the pocket.

If you're using digital zoom, don't, Shoot the resolution you want, and if yoi don't know what you want, the best the camera will do, and fix it later.

[joe greiner]

Look at air-lift struts, like one finds at the back of station wagons, hatchbacks etc. Presumably those are too robust or long, but the idea's there.

In the upover, and maybe downunder too, they're called "gas springs." Usually constant-force. A large range of sizes and different constant-force amounts are available. Auto parts stores should have most of the likely combinations you'd need. If the available extension dimensions are insufficient, they might be connected in series depending on the end fittings available (Need a rigid connection at the join). Contrariwise, with too-large an extension, connect the lower end near the bottom of the table, or something like that. Telephone or visit an auto parts store, and secure the critical dimensions. Draw some cartoons to see what will work. Do the final design and construction with the actual parts in hand, not before. DAMHIKT.

Joe

[JACM]

Well, I finally finished it and have got around to putting the pictures up here. I finished the base around christmas and ended up buying a commercially produced top because it wasn't very expensive. I'm glad I did because it works extemely well and it would have taken me ages to make it as good as the bought top. My router is very happy in this table and I'm now getting down to using it. Already made a few things and learnt heaps about using routers safely.

I hope others find the pictures useful.

David, thanks heaps for the posting me Richard's design.

:U:U:U:U:U:U:U

[46150]

James,where did you get the top from.Regards........Al
ps looks very impressive

[JACM]

I got the top from:
http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/

I also got the phenolic mounting plate from them as well. (Pre drill for my triton router)

I haven't used any other tops or plates so I can't compare but it seems to work really well to me and I am very happy with it. It saved me heaps of time too so I can get down to making the things I'm really interested in rather than learning new things like lamination that I'm not really interested in that much.

I was looking to get the kit for the triton router (the one that has the above table adjuster stick thing) but Triton have gone out of business so I'm not sure where to get it. It seems pretty easy to adjust the router from under the table anyway and when I'm doing fine adjustments I have to get down to table level anyway so it's easier to adjust the height from below the table rather than above. I think I'll just keep it the way it is.

I should have mentioned that the the base is all glued (and gets its strength from that) and the few screws were just to add extra support where it was difficult for me to clamp properly.

[chippy 71]

Well, I finally finished it and have got around to putting the pictures up here. I finished the base around christmas and ended up buying a commercially produced top because it wasn't very expensive. I'm glad I did because it works extemely well and it would have taken me ages to make it as good as the bought top. My router is very happy in this table and I'm now getting down to using it. Already made a few things and learnt heaps about using routers safely.

I hope others find the pictures useful.

David, thanks heaps for the posting me Richard's design.

:U:U:U:U:U:U:U

Hi JACM,

Like the table,:2tsup: Any chance of the design and dimensions?

Colin.

[DonB]

Well done guys with all of the advice given.
I have been thinking of making one myself and find the ideas useful.
One alternative for the mounting of the table where workshop space is limited, like in my workshop, is the have the table top of choice made with a block at one end that can be dropped into an engineers vice mounted on your workbench.
On the other end you have a removeable leg, (or hinged) that sits on the floor, cut so as to have the benchtop level.
In this way the whole router table sits out over your normal walkspace.
When not in use it can be easily hung on the wall or otherwise put out of the way.

It is essential that the table is made of durable material, for the weight of the router will distort the top over time, making it inaccurate. Laminate on both the top AND bottom is required to stop the table absorbing moisture. Two layers of material, say ply or MDF can be used, so that an opening in the lower and thicker of the two layers can be made to accept the router. You can also cut a circle in the top layer of laminate to allow you to screw the router up, with countersunk screws, (you may need longer screws than are now in the router base), then you can cut round slip in pieces of laminate with various size centre holes for the various cutters to fill in where you have cut the original circle in the laminate.

Hope this makes sense, it did when I was writing it, but now not so sure. But I do know it works...

Regards from Don.

[DonB]

:-

[Johncs]

Well done guys with all of the advice given.
I have been thinking of making one myself and find the ideas useful.
One alternative for the mounting of the table where workshop space is limited, like in my workshop, is the have the table top of choice made with a block at one end that can be dropped into an engineers vice mounted on your workbench.
.

1. Hinge off wall, legs on the other side. The whole thing folds up and hangs off the wall.

2. Attach one side to bench - hinges, dogs to fit holes in bench top. The other side supported by folding legs.

3. Multipurpose cabinet. Alternative tops for any of
3a Router
3b Compound Mitre Saw
3c Grinder
3d Drill
3e Workspace.

I don't suppose for a moment that you'd use it for that many things. Space inside cabinet could store some of the equipment that's used on the top. Tops not in use might hang at the side, maybe over the equipment that goes on top of it.

Look in kitchen for basic cabinet designs, adapt size to suit.

[David H]

Hi JACM,

Like the table,:2tsup: Any chance of the design and dimensions?

Colin.
Colin
Have you got a copy of the design yet. If not send me a PM with email address and I would be happy to send you same.
Regards
David

[David H]

Well, I finally finished it and have got around to putting the pictures up here. I finished the base around Christmas and ended up buying a commercially produced top because it wasn't very expensive. I'm glad I did because it works extemely well and it would have taken me ages to make it as good as the bought top. My router is very happy in this table and I'm now getting down to using it. Already made a few things and learnt heaps about using routers safely.

I hope others find the pictures useful.

David, thanks heaps for the posting me Richard's design.

:U:U:U:U:U:U:U
James
That table looks fantastic. Like the way you beefed up the base inside to take longer screws for the wheels. They look like good quality ones. I think I picked my wheels up at one of those junk tents outside at home show for about $5 each. Still turning and haven't fallen to bits yet. That looks like a good table top also. Did it come with mitre channels fitted or did you put them in yourself. Like the Woodpecker fence they sell but can't justify the price with what I use mine for. Homemade fence on mine does the job until I can win Lotto
Congratulations on a great job - you took me back to when I made mine but didn't take the time for pics. Thanks for sharing.
Regards
David

[DonB]

Yep, good advice for small projects.
Most of my main use for the router table ,is for box making.
So I am talking about the Gifkin router table circa 2006, a very simple and easy to make table. I have adapted it without his base, for attaching to my engineers vyce. Got this advice from one of the guys in my club. Another reason to belong. (And it is so cheap to make)
Detailed plans for this can be obtained at gifkin.com or similar, so google this and you cant go wrong.

Happy shavings, Don

[zugg]

JACM
I don't know where you got the idea that Triton had gone out of business but I was just on there web site and they are still going strong check out www.triton.com.au

[Gooz]

JACM
I don't know where you got the idea that Triton had gone out of business but I was just on there web site and they are still going strong check out www.triton.com.au (http://www.triton.com.au)

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - http://business.theage.com.au/business/gmc-goes-into-receivership-20081201-6ocj.html There are a large number of threads covering this topic and resultant fallout in the Triton/GMC forum.

Gooz

[Johncs]

JACM
I don't know where you got the idea that Triton had gone out of business but I was just on there web site and they are still going strong check out www.triton.com.au (http://www.triton.com.au)
Zugg
Explore this forum. See what Eagle's been saying since about mid Dec 2008. He worked for GMC/Triton untill recently.

Try calling the number(s) on the Triton website, and ask for your nearest supplier.

[hcim]

I'm planning to build one .... (next after finishing my workbench :roll:)
Learn a lot of thing from this thread, thx.

[Gooz]

I only have a small shop so don't reallly have room for another separate table. Ended up going with the Carbatech router table extension http://www.carbatec.com.au/machinery-for-wood-and-metal-working/router-tables/cast-iron-router-table-extension - very happy with th results to date.