spartan 4th November 2008, 08:51 PM Hi all,
I have just purchased the Triton Insert Plate and ProTable setup as the basis on my router table - I also got the Incra LS system with the wonderfence - mainly because I didn't want to be out done by BigShed.
I have a problem though. I can't get the insert flat/flush with the surrounding table. In two of the corners the edge is raised by 2-3mm. I can't adjust the adjusting screws anymore - they are all but proud of the surface. I have the router mounted by the way.
The brass side things are relatively tight - although Im not sure if the brass adjuster should be facing towards the mitre track or not.
It seems as though I can push down on the plate to make it flat but it springs back up.
Bit sad really - coupled with a nice dent that I'm guessing occured during shipping to one of the corners of the pro table - not the best start to the project - and I haven't gotten near the incra yet.
Anyone got any tips?
thanks in advance
Waldo 4th November 2008, 08:54 PM Nope, not from me anyway, got a similar problem with my Triton insert - try as I do one corner is slightly proud and it's got me stumped.
spartan 4th November 2008, 10:42 PM Well I spent a bit more time with the creation this evening....
I managed to chip the edges of the melamine via the brass edge thingys...
I did get the plate a little lower - not completely flush by backing off all the router mount screws by about 50%....not sure how that will affect the stability of the router though.
NCArcher 4th November 2008, 11:32 PM Something is not flat and level. Put a straight edge across the table top, insert without router and insert with router. The base of the router may be distorting the insert if it isn't perfectly flat. You may need to shim the router onto the insert. Just guessing here but something's not right.
timber715 5th November 2008, 04:33 AM please post some pictures, I initially had the same problem but got around it adjusting 3 bolts first and moving from there...
Gwhat 5th November 2008, 04:09 PM OK sounds like there's a problem wityh something, not everything, so therefore I suggest;
Find a stable flat surface as a reference.
Remove the sub-base from the Triton and check it on this flat surface, it shouldn't wobble.
If that's OK, do the same with the Phenolic Plate.
Check that the table is installed as per the instructions and that it's flat.
One of the 3 above has to be the culprit.
If it's (2) shim betweeen the router and the Phenolic Plate, don't twist the plate by tightening it to a twisted router.
If it's (3) it will be a first, just send the plate back.
If it's (4) follow the instructions to brace the top.
Failing that send us a few pics, with a straight edge to highlight the issue. Also a pic of the top damage, it shouldn't be so but &^*&(%^ transport companies???
I hope that this helps.
Regards
Grahame
spartan 5th November 2008, 06:48 PM Ok, will run through the list....The first difference is that I don't have the sub base still on the router....I thought the instructions said to remove that....
Gwhat 6th November 2008, 05:45 PM Spartan
As the sub-base is redundant, I meant check the router base for flatness, one drop and they can be twisted for life.
Regards
Grahame
In2Wood 6th November 2008, 08:23 PM Graeme is right - I had exactly the same problem with the same components. After many hours I discovered the problem was nothing to do with the table or the plate - it was the base plate of the Triton router. If the flat is not perfectly flat, when you tighten the screws it flexes the plate to the router base. To solve I inserted a couple of thin washers as shims at the offfending points and Hey Presto - fixed in minutes. Hope this helps.
Clive O
Waldo 6th November 2008, 09:05 PM Thanks Clive O, that's worth investigating. :2tsup: And my router being an ex demo from Bunnies that could just be it.
spartan 6th November 2008, 10:21 PM Ok, went the process...
I found that...when i removed the two mounting knobs on the triton then the base of the router became perfectly flat.
I then re-inserted into the table and found an noticable improvement.
After much screwing:wink: I got basically three sides flat. The long side furthest away from the mitre channel sit about0.5mm proud. when I run the wood over it you can hear a slight just as the chamfer lifts it slightly onto the plate.
Will this cause a problem?
Regardless I need to mount the table to the base in the manner in which it describes in the instructions - its not - I don't have slotted angle at the moment. - the way should this be connected between the timber sub-frame and all four side?
Regards
Gwhat 7th November 2008, 06:48 AM Ok, went the process...
I found that...when i removed the two mounting knobs on the triton then the base of the router became perfectly flat.
I then re-inserted into the table and found an noticable improvement.
After much screwing:wink: I got basically three sides flat. The long side furthest away from the mitre channel sit about0.5mm proud. when I run the wood over it you can hear a slight just as the chamfer lifts it slightly onto the plate.
Will this cause a problem?
Regardless I need to mount the table to the base in the manner in which it describes in the instructions - its not - I don't have slotted angle at the moment. - the way should this be connected between the timber sub-frame and all four side?
Regards
Spartan
I still think that you will get it down if it is one complete side of the plate, try just adjusting the screws on the long sides (back off other 4) then when level just insert the other screws until they just touch.
The purpose of the steel angles (they can be slotted for convenience) is to brace the top and to provide fixing to the sub-structure. It's best if these are around all 4 sides. Remember, the tops are a large piece of Laminated MDF, with holes machined into it, therefore it will want to move, the angles are to stop it from doing so!!
I hope that this works for you?
Regards
Grahame
rayintheuk 8th November 2008, 01:17 AM Spartan
As the sub-base is redundant, I meant check the router base for flatness, one drop and they can be twisted for life.
It now seems obvious that the router involved is the MOF001, not the larger TRA001 machine. In this case, the sub-base is not redundant, unless the two domed keyhole bolts are permanently removed, because - unlike the larger machine - these bolts have a sub-base recess, as they are proud of the actual router base.
If the router will remain forever in the table, fair enough. However, if it will get the occasional hand-held use, I'd recommend leaving the sub-base on and attaching with slightly longer screws. This will make subsequent use of the router, especially with the extended base, less of a hassle to change over.
Ray
spartan 8th November 2008, 09:49 AM It now seems obvious that the router involved is the MOF001, not the larger TRA001 machine.
Ray
Nope its the TRA001 - brand new straight out of the box.
rayintheuk 8th November 2008, 11:30 AM Nope its the TRA001 - brand new straight out of the box.
Well, that's the first time I've heard of the domed bolts in a TRA causing a problem.:B
Ray.
spartan 8th November 2008, 10:21 PM OK, I've applied all of the advice given by all - especially Grahame. Many thanks your support as been excellent.:2tsup:
I've got it just about perfect - I rekon plus or minus about 0.5mm
I'm guessing that this is close enough - I:?'m a bit of an obsessive compulsive at times when comes to things like this...unfortunately doesn't translate to error free projects.
I see if I can get the camera down to the shed for some pictures. I need to finish the doors/draws and of course put the LS "17 together...
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