Sherwood Table Saw

[Stubchain]

I have been using a modified Ryobi 10" table saw for the past 6 months. I made a frame to enlarge the top.

I'm pretty much an amature compared to some people on this forum, the forum is great by the way.

Now I have started to think I need something a bit better than the Ryobi, I'm looking at buying a Sherwood Table Saw for around $850. Does anyone have one of these and are they OK. A bit of advice will be appreciated.

Regards Keith

[Robert WA]

What model Ryobi?

They made a very good tablesaw, with a useful fence and a sliding table on the left side. It was sold in Oz but seems now to be off the market. A newer version is available in the US and in Europe.

They also make a cheap and tinny tablesaw, with a terrible fence. I have seen it for sale at Bunnies recently for $400 ish.

If yours is the 1st type, hang on to it. If it is the 2nd type, I hope it was given to you.

I think Sherwood is an in-house brand name used by Timbecon or similar. My guess is that it will be an Asian made tablesaw and that its twins with different paintwork will be available at Carba-tec, MIK etc. I have something similar, a 12 inch blade, originally bought from Carba-tec in Perth and, once tuned up properly and fitted with a good fence, it is a good unit.

Shop around. The saw you are looking at may be cheaper down the road. Check the fence. Is it, and does it stay, parallel to the mitre slots and to the blade? Is it easy to move along its track? Is it straight along its length and is its face vertical?

Have a look at some name brand units to make a comparison of the quality. Don't look at the prices.

Come back here often. Tablesaws are the football teams of woodwork forums. Everyone has a favourite. You will get plenty of replies.

[Stubchain]

I'm not even sure I have option 2. My Ryobi was under $300, it's OK for the purpose it was bought for, workshop cupboards etc in MDF. I think I'm ready to venture into some better quality work so need something I can really rely on.

I have seen the Sherwood model in Hobart and it appears to be robust and the fence looks pretty sturdy and accurate.

This is the model http://www.timbecon.com.au/productsdetail.asp?sectid=12508&parentid=12471&prodid=27569

An MJ-2325

[Robert WA]

I am not a fan of fences that lock on the back rail as well as the front. Plenty of people will tell you that I am wrong in that regard, and they may be better judges than me.

My view is that the fence and the front T-bar locking mechanism should be rigid enough that the rear lock is not needed.

There are 2 problems associated with fences with rear locks:

1) The manufacturer can make a front locking mechanism and t-bar carriage less rigid, in reliance on the extra strength offered by a rear lock.

2) If the rear lock is not adjusted precisely, it can prevent the fence from squaring itself up when the front lock is applied.

Just my view.

See if they will supply the saw with a good after market fence.

Bang the existing fence around in the store, move it and lock it over and over, be sure that it stays square.

[derekcohen]

Robert

Just a comment about the fence, a bit off topic perhaps.

You and I have the same Carba-tec tablesaw with the same fence. I know your fence has given you endless trouble while I have been reasonably happy with mine (there is always room for improvement).

I was in Timbercon the other day and they had a rebadged-Sherwood version of the tablesaw (identical other than the Godawful red paint). It had the same fence as ours. Alongside was one of the other tablesaws along with the T-fence (that they also sell as an aftermarket item). So of course I had a play with both, comparing one against the other.

You know, I MUCH preferred our fence. By a mile. Perhaps it is because I am used to mine, and it works, but it just felt so much more positive and easier to set. The T-fence is quite loose until it is locked down. I suspect that the technique is the same as the Professional Fence I have on my bandsaw, that is, you pull it back against the rail when you slide it into position. But it still felt imprecise and finicky. By contrast, our fence, which is held at both ends, and locks at both ends, slides precisely and squarely along the rails. My fence locks squarely and rip cuts are reliably accurate.

One day I would like a more powerful tablesaw, perhaps with a highend fence such as the Delta or Biesemeyer. But at this time I can put this lower down my "Want To Own" list.

I recall that we were unsuccessful in getting together at my home after the last Show. Perhaps we can plan something more definite this time around, and I will show you what the fence is capable of.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert WA]

Derek.

I was fortunate enough to locate a basic, front locking fence that I was able to adapt to my saw. It is not perfect but, for me, better than the Carba-tec fence. My old fence is now looking for a new home.

Like you, I would like to upgrade one day. I don't need the 12" blade capacity and would settle for a better quality 10", possibly left tilting and definitely with longer rails. Maybe the show will be the trigger for a change?

I will be at the show and will stay in Perth for the weekend. It would be good to get together again. I would like to see your fence in action. Mine just drove me silly and the hand saws began to look very attractive as a substitute.

[derekcohen]

Robert wrote:

with longer rails

Robert

Are you referring to the Carba-tec fence? The rails on mine are very long, so long that I was able to leave the iron grids on and still build a router table between them! There are pics somewhere on this website (look under router table) if you are interested.

I will speak to you about a week before the Show and we will make some plans for a visit. How long do you plan to be in Perth?

Regards

Derek

[Robert WA]

Derek.

I am referring to the substitute fence. The rails are long enough for the extension table and that is about it.

As to the show, I will probably spend just the weekend in Perth. Drive up Friday evening and return Sunday afternoon.

I have 5 weeks leave in May - June and will not be making specific plans for attending the show til after I get back. I will let you know.

[Vasco]

Stubchain,
I have the Sherwood 12 inch table saw. Also available in other colours from other suppliers with different names but not the 36month warranty.
my expierience; like all "made in china" machinery is that it needs some tuning before it will perform properly, I find this annoying but the original price tag is attractive and once you have sorted out the bugs it is a fine saw. Mine even needed some grinding of the rear part of the fence as it didn't clear the rails enough. Then the blade chassis needed aligning now it works like a dream. I was disapointed to start with as the fence grabed, wasn't parallel and the saw wouldn't cut straight enough. Now all is well and I would buy one again. Along with other equipment I have bought I have found that this sort of thing is normal for the lower price "made in China" machines.
Just my experience and opinion.
Regards Vasco,
Perth W.A

[derekcohen]

Vasco

Thanks for your comments. I have added my own below.

Other than the colour (red/Timbercon vs blue/Carba-tec. or Woodstock as the company was called when I purchased my saw), I wonder what differences there are between the saws. Mine is now 7 years old and it was made in Taiwan (not China). The point being whether quality has altered in any way.

I'm thinking back to when I brought mine home and set it up. Frankly, I think that all saws (and most large machinery) should be looked on as kits. That is, there will be some assembly and a lot of tweeking to get it set up just right. Presumably the more you pay the less tweeking necessary.

That said, I recall that some "alligning of the chassis" with the blade was required (but I expected to do this as every book or article I ever read said this would be required). I also need to allign and tweek the fence (again, a standard set up requirement). The fence did not run smoothly at first. It would bind at various points. This was due to the rails not being perfectly (or sufficiently) parallel. This was sorted out by playing around with washers as spacers. Set it up once and then forget it.

Similarly, your comment "disapointed to start with as the fence grabed, wasn't parallel and the saw wouldn't cut straight enough" is one common to every new tablesaw. They simply do not come with a perfect setup out of the box, unless someone at the shop has set it up for you beforehand.

I wonder whether owners of other tablesaws agree or disagree with these remarks? If they are a common situation, then it will enable us to view the saws a bit more objectively. If not, then it will sort out the better prepared tablesaws from the rest of the bunch.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Vasco]

Derek,
I believe that this is commom with all machinery. Maybe at the lower end of the market more needs to be done to make it work as it should. I think "as I have come to do" that if we accept this when buying the machinery it would take the dissappintment out of the purchase.
Regsards Vasco

BTW where in Perth are you?

[derekcohen]

Vasco

I'm in Rossmoyne. Where about are you?

It's great to have another Perthite on board. Welcome. Other locals have been planning a get together at the next Perth Wood Show (in August). I hope that you'll join us.

Regards

Derek

[Vasco]

Derek,
Im in Bicton, not far from you towards Fremantle.
I would love to be involved in the get together for the wood show.
Regards Vasco

[stevepay]

I know that this is not the sort of comment that will help you much with your choice but I purchased a Jet tablesaw(10 inch) at last years show and cannot speak highly enough about this quality machine, it needed almost no " work" to get it to cut square and strait, something my last tablesaw was unable to do even with an aftermarket fence of good quality. it also was easy to set up and continues to deliver the goods.

I guess what I'm saying is that you really do get what you pay for and the saving of a few hundred dollars is not worth the frustration and dissapointment that you will go through everytime a project is not quite as good as it could be.

however if you have the paitence and want to spend heaps of time getting your machine to work properly then by all means buy a cheap(cheaper) tablesaw, even then they are not really that cheap.

to me its like buying a car that doesnt steer strait, yeh you can still drive but your not going to be happy.

just my 2 cents

[Wild Dingo]

aahhh yes indeedy this be the baby I bought at the last woodshow here in Perth last year... comments? why certainly!

Firstly... If you have more money buy something else!

Problems...
Fence is bloody near useless wont hold a straight line if it's forced to! It will be an endless source of abuse and consternation... pay the extra and get a good one cause you will want to toss this thing on the scrap heap!

Motor hanging off the back is the sole tension for the blade belt and is totally inadequate which generally means changing the tension on the belt by loosening off the nuts on the motor and forcing it downward to exert pressure on the belt then doing the nuts up tight again... for each change in thickness of timber your planning on cutting! have on had a large storage of abuse and consternation words

The little grommets that hold down the plate are next to hopeless are too small for the job fall out at a whistle and drop instantly onto the floor as soon as you touch them

Good points...
Saw cuts like a damned charm when finally set up properly!

Heavy as buggary so wont move or budge an inch which if your cutting large timbers is a real blessing believe me!

Like the ability to change the positioning of the start/stop button but the little micro meter thing is pathetic... meaning I now have to replace mine since it broke within the first weeks worth of abusive and consternation words and now sits on the broken and busted to hopefully be repaired one day tool shelf at the back of the shed

Did I mention if you have more money get something else? after my experience with this saw I intend paying more and getting better quality machinery from here on! even if it means doing without some other tool for awhile... Its just not worth it to get cheep

advice? wait for the show... check out what the other dealers have available hare and forbes and the others... I wasnt going to with the bandsaw but on advice through here definantly will be going to all of them over the next week or so to check them out before I buy anything!

but on the other hand... if its what you can afford its better than nothing!........ just. :rolleyes:

Good luck with it mate

so says an ex Carnarvon now Mandurah fella :cool:

[rodm]

I’m on my fifth table saw if you call a Triton a table saw. I started with a Paulcall ten inch and moved from this to the Triton. I was glad to get rid of the Triton and got the Carbatec 10 inch contractors saw. I was given a ten inch Woodman contractors saw when I had the Carbatec saw so that how the numbers stack up. I now have a TSC10-HB cabinet saw and it is far superior to all previous owned saws.
It costs more but had I known how much better it performs I would not have wasted my time on the others. The fence is the first obvious improvement. The biesemyer style fence is superb. Initially I thought it was horrible at tracking but there are two stops on the locking cam – one for removing the fence and the other for sliding. I had been pulling the lever to the removing position for setting the width of cut and when I locked the fence it would swing back to square and of course the measurement would change. Derek this could be what was happening when you tested the saws at Timbecon. I hate reading manuals so this was entirely my fault.
The fence aside, the other features are worth mentioning. The table top is large and the finish is ground after milling. The top provides much more support and less resistance because the machining is much smoother. The rise and fall and tilt actions are silky smooth and there is no play. In the contractors saws if you raised the blade and went past the mark you would have to almost start again because of the slack in the gears. The most noticeable difference for me is the instantaneous start up speed. The saw is usable as soon as you hit the switch. The other saws need to wind up to speed and while this didn’t bother me at the time I think now that I am spoilt with this saw it would now. The larger motor also means that I do not have to control the cutting speed to match the horsepower of the motor. The general quality is far superior. The knobs are solid turned steel and knurled rather than plastic and while this doesn’t make a big difference it does make the feel of the saw better.
I didn’t have to adjust anything out of the box except to align the fence.
The only problem with the TSC10-HB is the price. I paid over $1700 and although they are now cheaper because of the strengthening $AUS they still take a wad out of the back pocket.