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Stryker223
16th November 2008, 09:15 AM
I picked up some bocote and cocobola sticks off Ebay and they are perfect for making a stave vessel!
I already cut them to length and need to ask you folks if the staves need to all be the same width? The cocobola sticks are a little wider than the bocote and I think it would add to the looks of the finished turning to leave them wider if possible.
Thanks for any tips you can give me!!!
Here's a picture of the wood with a 12" ruler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/L6steel/misc/sticksforstaves.jpg

rsser
16th November 2008, 11:26 AM
Dunno Michael ... you're talking about something like a wine barrel?

Try a Google on 'drum turning'.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
16th November 2008, 02:05 PM
I already cut them to length and need to ask you folks if the staves need to all be the same width?

The pieces in the pic should be fine. :2tsup:

I wouldn't want to use much wider, though - assuming all the pieces are the same thickness then having wider staves will mean thinner walls on the result.

To include pieces that are, say, twice as wide as the alternating pieces and maintain the maximum possible wall thickness, you really need to make the wide pieces about 1 1/2 times as thick the thin 'uns. (There is a formula but I'm dead beat right now and can't think of it. :-)

tea lady
16th November 2008, 02:36 PM
I think different widths will look good. :cool:

There was an artical next too the artical Ern put up (about green turning) that is all about making a stave vessel.:cool: Here (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30742)it is. Looks interesting.:U

Texian
16th November 2008, 03:07 PM
Looks like you could make a piece a little over 6" in diameter and about 12" tall. As Skew mentioned, may need to make some calculations and/or scale drawings, but if the wood is thick enough you could cut them all at the same angles.

rsser
16th November 2008, 03:38 PM
Actually, looking at those fine bits of timber (lumber to you Michael) there's a lot of fantastic figure there ... maybe too much?

Might end up looking very 'busy' ... what do you think?

(Love your signature btw.)

tea lady
16th November 2008, 05:16 PM
Actually, looking at those fine bits of timber (lumber to you Michael) there's a lot of fantastic figure there ... maybe too much?

Might end up looking very 'busy' ... what do you think?


starting to think it might be too bust too. You might need some plainer wood in between, or use thenm in differant vessels. :hmm: There is that one stave with a white stripe of sapwood down the side. That looks like it comes from a different vessel yet again. :shrug: It either needs more like that or non at all. IMHO

rsser
16th November 2008, 05:35 PM
Yeah, that'd be my call too TL.

Maybe alternate high figure staves with something plain.

Just my 2c worth.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
16th November 2008, 05:58 PM
Yeah, that'd be my call too TL.

Maybe alternate high figure staves with something plain.

Just my 2c worth.

Oh, I dunno. If he cut each of the staves with the same angle, then seperated 'em with small slats of a very light (or maybe very dark) timber, say only 3-5mm wide, then I reckon it'd be quite impressive. Especially if the base & rim are lipped with the same timber.

It would look busy without such dividers, though.

rsser
16th November 2008, 06:13 PM
Yeah, that'd be something.

Good call Skew.

joe greiner
16th November 2008, 10:05 PM
What they said. From a Q&D measurement of my screen image, I get about 17.9" maximum circumference, so about 5.7" maximum diameter.

Adding thin strips would boost the diameter. An easy source could be tongue depressors, with the rounded ends cut off; usually white birch IIRC. There'd be 3 or 4 required for each stave, and their joins could be filled with another strip of a darker wood (or not). For best results, I'd suggest placing those joins at random, or alternating, offsets along the vertical. Also, be careful with the "curl" of the strips, to ensure structural integrity; single pieces of veneer could be more effective, and less busy design-wise.

This would only form the cylindrical part of the piece. The top and bottom still need attention. I'd consider cutting the staves short to provide material for the top and bottom, instead of using some other wood.

It looks like you're on the way to a great work. Please keep us posted.

Joe

Stryker223
17th November 2008, 05:30 AM
Thanks for all the input folks!!!! :2tsup:
This will be my first segmented turning and I want it to come out nice!
I agree with you about the two woods together being too busy but when I was sorting through the stock, it just jumped out at me.I have some Douglas Fir veneer that is very light and would be fine for putting between the other wood. I also have a piece of basswood that would be suitable for this use and I could cut it into 1/8" or 1/4" strips. The only problem with basswood is it's pretty soft and also might stain with the dust from the other woods.
The reason I'm making a straight walled vessel is it's going to be a humidor for cigars and the inside needs to be straight so I figured it wouldn't hurt for the outside to be also. I'll probably dress it up some as long as I don't go crazy and make it gaudy! :)
I'm thiking about using a piece of cocobola for the base and top. I'm afraid I don't have any bocote big enough for that.
I have some big blocks of quilted sapelle, bubinga, leopard wood, and a couple thick Brazilian flame redwood, and some 1/4" thin sheets of Bolivian rosewood. I guess once the body is turned I could see how all these different woods look with it and choose the nicest.
Oh well, I guess your first segmented vessel should be a challenge and take a loy of thought! :)
You folks sure are helpful and much appreciated!!!!! :yippy:

Manuka Jock
17th November 2008, 07:55 AM
I'm thiking about using a piece of cocobola for the base and top. I'm afraid I don't have any bocote big enough for that.
I have some big blocks of quilted sapelle, bubinga, leopard wood, and a couple thick Brazilian flame redwood, and some 1/4" thin sheets of Bolivian rosewood. I guess once the body is turned I could see how all these different woods look with it and choose the nicest.

it's going to be a humidor for cigars



A Cuban wood with nice figure maybe , are there any that turn well ?

rsser
17th November 2008, 07:59 AM
From a Q&D measurement of my screen image, I get about 17.9" maximum circumference, so about 5.7" maximum diameter.
Joe

How'd you do this Joe? ie. go from a screen representation to real dimensions?


A Cuban wood with nice figure maybe , are there any that turn well ?

Cedar is usual around cigars .. Spanish or Syrian, can't recall which.

Grumpy John
17th November 2008, 08:15 AM
How'd you do this Joe? ie. go from a screen representation to real dimensions?


Ern, I'm guessing Joe used the 300mm rule as a reference. Possibly using image manipulation S/W (i.e. Paint) keep adjusting scale until rule measures say 150mm on paper then double the dimension over timbers. Just guessing mind you.

rsser
17th November 2008, 08:40 AM
K, figures.

Had been wondering for my micro-images of using the screen res as a scale.

Brent Beach has used pixel count as a measure of wear on plane blades. Not sure how he does it.

Manuka Jock
17th November 2008, 09:37 AM
Cedar is usual around cigars .. Spanish or Syrian, can't recall which.

yep , found a Cuban cedar ,
beautiful figure too

Ed Reiss
17th November 2008, 01:01 PM
How'd you do this Joe? ie. go from a screen representation to real dimensions?



Cedar is usual around cigars .. Spanish or Syrian, can't recall which.

It's Spanish Cedar that is used for cigar humidors.:U

Texian
17th November 2008, 02:54 PM
Michael stated that that is a 12" ruler laying there next to the wood. I just estimated the slat widths to arrive at a 6" diameter and 12+" height. Don't need no stinkin' pixels.

joe greiner
17th November 2008, 10:52 PM
No pixels for me either. I just held an engineers' scale against the screen to measure 5" for the wood and 3.35" for the ruler. 12"/3.35" = 3.58; x 5" = 17.9"; / 3.1416 = 5.7"

A metric version would be 129mm and 84mm (on screen). So, 305/84 = 3.63; x 129 = 468mm; / 3.1416 = 149mm (~5.87" - close enough).

The length of the sticks is much longer than needed for cigars, so there's plenty for the top and bottom.

Joe

Manuka Jock
17th November 2008, 11:13 PM
It seems that Spanish Cedar , is not actually a cedar , nor is it from Spain :U

The Tree: Cedrela Fissilis Family (http://www.thewoodbox.com/data/wood/spcedarinfo.htm)


This from Wiki , which may account for it's use ;

Spanish-cedar wood can repel tobacco beetles (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lasioderma_serricorne). These pinhead-sized beetles can ruin entire stocks of cigars. They eat the tobacco and lay eggs, causing further infestation. They can also be discouraged by ensuring the humidor does not get hotter than 20°C (68°F).<SUP class=reference id=cite_ref-0>[1] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidor#cite_note-0)</SUP> The beetle eggs usually only hatch at around 25°C (77°F), although there are also instances where they will hatch at cooler temperatures if the humidity is too high.

rsser
18th November 2008, 06:10 AM
Hmm, interesting.

And apparently good cigars are like good wine: ageing improves them.