jatt
22nd November 2008, 11:33 PM
Yeah finally figured out what to do with this piece of timber that's been lying around in the shed now since the Tassie trip of 91. Thanks to the forum, the clock section in particular.
When I started this project a few weeks ago it was a sad & very poorly stored piece of timber. Houn pine I was told when I bought it. Heaps of cracks in it and very roughly cut by whatever saw that was used on it. When it comes to Houn pine I'm told that only fallen timber/tree stumps can be obtained these days, so my guess is it was dead for some time before I purchased it. Was recommened using Locktite "superglue" in the cracks by a bloke from Strahan Woodworks last year. Unfortunately he couldnt find his bottle at the time to give me the exact number they were using down there. Went to my local bearing joint & the closest thing he came up with is 401. A general purpose glue by the sounds. I am by no means a woodworking guru, but it seemed to work for me.
Cut a piece off one side with the circular to reduce the weight and neaten up the appearance of the piece. At some stage the tree must have suffered some fire damage, cause some parts were charred on the edge. Also the weathering around the circumference was pretty bad. Unsure of the best way of tackling that bit, so I carefully used the powerfile to remove the loose charcoal & other flaky bits.
Cranked up the belt sander and hit it with the harshest grit I had on hand to take out the saw marks. Saw the machine at the WWW show "surface grinding" pieces of timber and figured that's the only way I'm gunna get something level enuf to suit my purposes.
Took it to a local furniture manufacturer & he recommended using his sander to achieve the required result. From what I can deduct, I think the way the grain runs influenced his choice. I was a bit out of my depth on this one, so I didnt argue. Said something about the type of sander he had in his shop made it hard to push my piece thru. That's his explanation for the faint raised line u the piece. Recons he used 180 grit. Currently in the process of carefully block sanding the entire piece to remove the line. At this point I dont trust my skills enuf to use any other means.
Because of the thickness of the piece recon I will use a router to recess the clock mechanism in the back.
More to follow..............
When I started this project a few weeks ago it was a sad & very poorly stored piece of timber. Houn pine I was told when I bought it. Heaps of cracks in it and very roughly cut by whatever saw that was used on it. When it comes to Houn pine I'm told that only fallen timber/tree stumps can be obtained these days, so my guess is it was dead for some time before I purchased it. Was recommened using Locktite "superglue" in the cracks by a bloke from Strahan Woodworks last year. Unfortunately he couldnt find his bottle at the time to give me the exact number they were using down there. Went to my local bearing joint & the closest thing he came up with is 401. A general purpose glue by the sounds. I am by no means a woodworking guru, but it seemed to work for me.
Cut a piece off one side with the circular to reduce the weight and neaten up the appearance of the piece. At some stage the tree must have suffered some fire damage, cause some parts were charred on the edge. Also the weathering around the circumference was pretty bad. Unsure of the best way of tackling that bit, so I carefully used the powerfile to remove the loose charcoal & other flaky bits.
Cranked up the belt sander and hit it with the harshest grit I had on hand to take out the saw marks. Saw the machine at the WWW show "surface grinding" pieces of timber and figured that's the only way I'm gunna get something level enuf to suit my purposes.
Took it to a local furniture manufacturer & he recommended using his sander to achieve the required result. From what I can deduct, I think the way the grain runs influenced his choice. I was a bit out of my depth on this one, so I didnt argue. Said something about the type of sander he had in his shop made it hard to push my piece thru. That's his explanation for the faint raised line u the piece. Recons he used 180 grit. Currently in the process of carefully block sanding the entire piece to remove the line. At this point I dont trust my skills enuf to use any other means.
Because of the thickness of the piece recon I will use a router to recess the clock mechanism in the back.
More to follow..............