Angle of skewness for the skew chisel

[jefferson]

This one has been bothering me for some time, at least since gave me some lessons a couple of months back.

's 1 inch skew is not ground at 45 degrees, probably 60 degrees. Two of my skews - the 3/4 and 1 inch - are set at 45, while my 1 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch skews are close to 60.

And yesterday I used my brother's skew, also at maybe 60 degrees. Much easier.

I find the steeper skews harder to use, I don't know why. Less clearance perhaps, but I would be very interested in the math and other people's thoughts.

I would have though it preferable to have the same angle on all of my skews, for repeatability if nothing else.

Jeff

[tea lady]

45° does seem a bit steep. I think most of the force is supposed to go straight down the tool, so too much of an angle means too much sideways force. :hmm: But hey I'm no expert. :shrug: Where is anyway?:?:D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I find the steeper skews harder to use, I don't know why. Less clearance perhaps, but I would be very interested in the math and other people's thoughts.

The angle on a skew is a personal thing, more to do with how you use/hold them than anything.

Looking down on the tool, comparing the angle to the lathe bed, the shallower (or "squarer") the angle is on a skew, the further the end of the handle needs to be moved to the right to have the cutting edge presented at the correct angle to the wood.

For paring/roughing down, I like a fairly blunt angle, perhaps 50-55° (at the point) as this leaves the end of the handle tucked close in to my right side while I cut to my left side, which is how I feel most comfortable with it. For detail work, where I cut more... "straight in front of me" I prefer a more acute angle, perhaps 35-40° at the point.

[RETIRED]

The angle on a skew is a personal thing, more to do with how you use/hold them than anything.

Looking down on the tool, comparing the angle to the lathe bed, the shallower (or "squarer") the angle is on a skew, the further the end of the handle needs to be moved to the right [i]to have the cutting edge presented at the correct angle to the wood."

For paring/roughing down, I like a fairly blunt angle, perhaps 50-55° (at the point) as this leaves the end of the handle tucked close in to my right side while I cut to my left side, which is how I feel most comfortable with it. For detail work, where I cut more... "straight in front of me" I prefer a more acute angle, perhaps 35-40° at the point.
Yessum. I agree with all that.:D Except that I move my body about to adjust the required angle. Sometimes it is almost 10 degrees off the timber for quick removal but then I swing the handle back (move my bum around) to open up the angle to 40-60 degrees. On really, really fine cuts it sometimes comes around to about 80 degrees. Scary but leaves a nice cut.

Timber density has a bit to do with it too.

[jefferson]

Thanks TL, Skew and .

It seems to me that all my skews should have the same cutting angle. Otherwise, I have different "close-to-body" positions. My personal preference is the less-steep angle though I don't know why. I sure have less dig-ins and rolling beads just seems easier. That said, there must be some benefit with a longer point, at least for cutting V grooves????

Back to the experts.

Jeff

[Texian]

Just wondering if it would be helpful to the uninitiated (self included) to define "steeper" and other angles less nebulously. What if the angle at the cutting edge, measured in a plane perpendicular to the cutting edge, was called the "included angle", or the "included grind angle"? And maybe the acute angle between the cutting edge and the axis of the tool could be called the "skew angle"?

Naw, dumb a** idea. Never mind.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Just wondering if it would be helpful to the uninitiated (self included) to define "steeper" and other angles less nebulously. What if the angle at the cutting edge, measured in a plane perpendicular to the cutting edge, was called the "included angle", or the "included grind angle"?

We call that the bevel angle. :wink: Of which the skew usually has two: the top & bottom bevels, which are typically ground at the same, albeit mirrored, angle.


And maybe the acute angle between the cutting edge and the axis of the tool could be called the "skew angle"?

Which is what we're talking about. (I think!? :oo:)

[RETIRED]

http://www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?title=1450952352&channel=416537421

[jefferson]

, thanks for the link.

The guy demonstrating was using a dead centre for spindle work. Do I need one of these? I don't have catches any more when planing, only when rolling beads occasionally with the skew.

I can't imagine the dead centres are expensive, but are they worthwhile?

thanks Jeff

[RETIRED]

Dare I say it? Anne will kill me.:~ They can be handy at times.

Oh darn.

[artme]

I was always afraid of the skew until I read Mike Darlow´s book and watched his Video "Taming The Skew". It is really worthwhile taking your lead from him, and, once confidet and competent, adjusting angles to suit yourself.

[RETIRED]

and, one confidet and competent, adjusting angles to suit yourself. Presactly.:D

[Texian]

Thanks Skew. Must have had a little brain fog yesterday, cause the whole thread makes sense now. Too much lacquer, maybe. Seems like your first post covered it pretty well. Sorry to be a pest.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Why apologise? I wouldn't be surprised if others were just as confused. By asking, it may've clarified things for them, too.

As they say: there are no silly questions. (But I've got oodles of silly answers! :p)

[jefferson]

But Skew, you didn't answer one of my questions: should all my skew chisels be ground to the same angle??? Another silly question perhaps?

Or should I preserve one with a 45 degree skewness for cutting v grooves?

Jeff

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Ah... but I did! "Personal preference." :D

My recommendation would be to find the one that's most comfortable for you to use and gradually regrind your others to match.

The reason I say slowly adjust their angles with each sharpen is purely 'n simply so you're not wasting steel. I imagine that would probably just regrind 'em al in one hit, but that's another difference between production work & home hobbyist.

With time & familiarity you'll probably modify the angles anyway... and who knows? During the "changeover period" you may discover another angle you prefer. :wink:

[Jim Carroll]

My 2c worth

I use the 70 degree angle from the long point to the short point.

The angle of the bevel is about 45 degrees and this works fine for me.

The main school of thought is that the bevel should be twice the width of the blade which can make for a long fine bevel, which I find uncomfortable to use. This is what is comonly ground on most skew chisels when you buy them then as time goes by they get modified .

The description on the video was quite good and hopefully solves a lot of myths about the skew chisel.

Get used to it as it can be one of your favorite tools, just remember to concentrate when using it as it can create some of the most decorative spirals that you dont want.

[jefferson]

Thanks Jim and Skew.

I haven't given up on the skew - on the contrary, I use it when I am supposed to, particularly when cutting long curves on my little boxes. Not in 's class yet, but he should hear me coming.... And when that comes, Tea Lady won't know where to go for lessons!

I do seem to favour a less than 45 degree sharpening angle. As Skew suggests, I'll re-grind slowly over a period and get the angle that seems to suit. Still unsure about keeping one skew chisel with a longer point for v-grooves but will experiment.

thanks Jeff