Mdf top

[SHIPPERS]

Evening all.

To the more knowledgable, i have laminated 2 pieces of 16mm mdf as a top. The ?? is now how far do i recess the router.
Im not using an insert.
Would 10mm be enough to bite while still retain some form of integrity?

[rayintheuk]

What router? Plunge or fixed base? Intended for use with, or without, a collet extension?

I'd use an insert plate for ease and convenience, as repeatedly screwing a router to an MDF top will cause wear on the mounting holes, leading to possible instability issues. Different issue if it will be left in the top, but what about bit changing access?

Your question raises more questions than answers at the moment! :)

Ray

[SHIPPERS]

Router is a Makita, not sure of model ( as its not infront of me at this time), is a plunge router. I am more than happy to leave it mounted to the top. I figure it will get more use this way. At this point in time i cant justify th e price of a quality insert.

[rayintheuk]

OK, but your recess will be in a 32mm top. Inserts tend to be between 8mm and 9.5mm thick, so even at those dimensions you'll lose a lot of integrity. This may well be OK in practice, but I wouldn't feel comfortable operating at that dimension in MDF.

If, however, you increase the amount of material left (by reducing the depth of the recess), you'll also lose that in available bit height. A collet extension may then be required in order to have a useful cutter height and they tend to be the same price as a decent insert plate.

Sorry, that's not helpful, but it's the way I'd do it. :)

Ray.

[The Big O]

I have devised a simple way of making inserts or inlays using a 40 mm template guide and a 12 mm and 16mm bit. By setting the depth in the final cut, to match the thickness of the inlay, table inserts are a breeze. Hope the picture explain how it is done.
regards, lionel.

[dennford]

I have devised a simple way of making inserts or inlays using a 40 mm template guide and a 12 mm and 16mm bit. By setting the depth in the final cut, to match the thickness of the inlay, table inserts are a breeze. Hope the picture explain how it is done.
regards, lionel.

Hey, Tat's a neat trick Lionel. It took a few minutes to work it out but yes I like it. Now I have pen and paper out trying to work out a formula for other size combinations of guides and bits.

Denn

[dennford]

With your 40mm guide, is that 40mm dia or 40mm rad ?

Denn

[The Big O]

Tis 40 mm outside diameter. Guide is 1 mm thick
I will measure the templates and let you know the figures.
regards Lionel.

[echnidna]

I've made inserts from 3mm aluminium sheet.
It handles a big router quite well but I've always made the insert as small as possible so the insert is properly supported by the top and cannot flex under load.

When you consider that I use a power feeder and push timber stock through fast with heavy cuts the 3mm aluminium plate is quite adequate.

3mm also has the advantage of not needing router shaft extensions.

[The Big O]

I have checked all the measurements and added them to the attachment which I have resubmitted here.

[dennford]

I have checked all the measurements and added them to the attachment which I have resubmitted here.

It would work with any size template/ pattern

You could use different sized bits and template guides.

Having had a bit of a thought, the formula would have to work around the following.

On the first cutwe end up with an insert and a new pattern (the grey);

The cut bettween these two was 12mm;

So to get our surround we have to cut 12mm inside thenew pattern;

This is the distance from the edge of the guide bush to the edge of the router bit, which in this case is 40 divide by half for the radius (20mm), minus half the bit diameter (8mm) is back to our 12mm offset.

Took a bit of thinking but I'm sure our Template Tom would have had it in a flash.:D

Denn

[SHIPPERS]

Its been awhile.
solved my delima. MDF top with jarrah edging and a 5mm aluminium homemade insert. 50mm angle with 100mm by 20mm
extrusion screwed together as a fence.
Thanks for the replies:U:U:U