Basic kit for breaking down green wood?

[mic-d]

I've been looking through the tools at the woodworks
http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/product/products/TOOLS.html

and wondering what tools are needed for a basic kit to break down a log. I have the opportunity to get a couple of recently fallen logs about 1200 long and 400 diameter to try some green woodworking.

I'm wondering from that site what wedges to get and how many and what type and weight axes to get. I had a look at the toolexchange for froes but don't know if they are suitable or not and what to use to drive the froe and wedges.


Adzes? where to begin with adzes?:?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Michael

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

How you want to break the log down helps dictate the "basic" kit.

For riving, the simplest kit is a good saw, a handful of wedges and a good sledgie.

Grand-dad used to use the back of his axe for driving wedges, however I've broken enough splitter- and axe-handles to know I much prefer a sledgie. I'm not sure why I'm more accurate with one, but there ya go. :rolleyes:

The reason for the saw rather than an axe is to give a clean cut on the end, making it easier to identify existing checks to work from/around.

[mic-d]

How you want to break the log down helps dictate the "basic" kit.

For riving, the simplest kit is a good saw, a handful of wedges and a good sledgie.

Grand-dad used to use the back of his axe for driving wedges, however I've broken enough splitter- and axe-handles to know I much prefer a sledgie. I'm not sure why I'm more accurate with one, but there ya go. :rolleyes:

The reason for the saw rather than an axe is to give a clean cut on the end, making it easier to identify existing checks to work from/around.
Thanks Skew, good starting point, but I have more questions!:roll:

What would be a good (hand)saw for green timber?
How many steel wedges do you think, 3 or 4 be alright?
I suppose Timber wedges could be made to supplant the steel ones.
I have a good sledgie , a cyclone with 14 on it, but it's heavyyy...

Cheers
Michael

[derekh]

In my limited experience, I start with wedges and a mallet or sledge hammer to split the bolts into managable quarters. I then use a froe made by a blacksmith friend and a wooden maul (a hardwood log 75mm dia) to rive off small billets. Then onto the shavehorse to square it up and then round it off enough for the pole lathe. This makes it sound like I'm a pro but I'm really only a humble leaner.

[mic-d]

In my limited experience, I start with wedges and a mallet or sledge hammer to split the bolts into managable quarters. I then use a froe made by a blacksmith friend and a wooden maul (a hardwood log 75mm dia) to rive off small billets. Then onto the shavehorse to square it up and then round it off enough for the pole lathe. This makes it sound like I'm a pro but I'm really only a humble leaner.

Hi Derek,

got any photos of your equipment?:) From my position, you are a master:D:D

Cheers
Michael

[derekh]

I'll take some photos this weekend and post them.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

What would be a good (hand)saw for green timber?

For 400mm dia, a bucksaw with a fairly aggressive tooth pattern. What HW stores sell as "bowsaws" in their gardening sections nowadays. :rolleyes: (A different beast to what I call a bowsaw, which has a timber H-shaped frame and is/was used for fine carpentry.)


How many steel wedges do you think, 3 or 4 be alright?
I suppose Timber wedges could be made to supplant the steel ones.

It's been a long time since I've split fence posts & rails (Thank God! :D) but from memory it worked out about one wedge per yard. Plus the one at the start. So two or three should be all that's needed for 1200mm. However, it's always a good idea to have a few spare. Occasionally you'll get an 'ornery piece that just won't play nicely and you need an extra wedge or two to keep things going. Even if only so you can recover the ones you started with!

Similarly, a few wooden wedges or blocks are always handy. If you run out of metal wedges and need to reposition one or two, or you've opened it up as wide as the wedges will go and the back still won't break, or...


I have a good sledgie , a cyclone with 14 on it, but it's heavyyy...

A few weeks swinging it and it'll get lighter. Eventually. :innocent:

A 14lber is probably alright if you're splitting 3' logs, but I'd go for an 8lber myself. Even a 2 or 4lber would do, provided you don't mind putting some effort behind your blows.

Come to think of it, that's probably why I'm more accurate with a sledgie than an axe or splitter. I let the weight do the work and most of my effort (apart from lifting it) goes into "steering." :think:

[Woodwould]

I would recommend a single-handed cross-cut saw, a froe, a mallet (to start the froe), four steel wedges, and a wooden maul (for hitting the wedges). Do not use a sledge hammer to drive steel wedges because hardened steel on hardened steel causes skelps to fly and you could loose an eye.

The froe doesn't have to be anything special. I've seen some advertised as 'best steel' which is somewhat pointless as they're splitting tools, not cutting tools. A piece of 65mm x 8mm mild steel bar with a handle ring bent on one end, the blade ground to shape and the edge case hardened is all that's required. You could even weld a piece of 4mm wall DN 32 pipe onto the flat bar for the handle ring.

[tea lady]

This makes it sound like I'm a pro but I'm really only a humble leaner.

Sorry to interrupt a very informative discussion but.....

A Leaner? Is that someone who observes while leaning on a shovel or stick?
:?

Normal transmission shall resume shortly.:D

[Woodwould]

Leaner n. One who exclusively eats lean back bacon. :;

[derekh]

I'm lean with my skills and knowledge and a learner at spelling. Happy now :)

[tea lady]

:d

[mic-d]

Sorry to interrupt a very informative discussion but.....

A Leaner? Is that someone who observes while leaning on a shovel or stick?
:?

Normal transmission shall resume shortly.:D

That's me as I swing that 14lb sledgie from behind my head:)

Thanks for the ideas everyone keep em coming and I'll keep the questions coming.

Derek thanks for taking photos.

Cheers

Michael

[mic-d]

skelps


Thanks one of the things I like about your posts Woodwould, all those interesting names for things.:wink:
Cheers
Michael

[silentC]

Damn you, I don't need something else to develop an interest in.

:)

[Andy Mac]

I guess a difference in tools kits would become obvious if you're dealing with logs as opposed to branches.
You could get away with a bow saw, axe, froe & beetle, and drawknife, if it was the latter.
If you intend working larger scale, with slabs from logs, you'll need to go towards a larger cross-cut saw, wedges & sledge, adze, and maybe a side axe. More muscle and sweat!:p

Cheers

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:whs: :yes:

And not to be a nit-picker (although I'm the first to confess I am :-) if you swing a sledge and a skelp (My new word for the day. :) ) flies off the wedge and takes out your eye, then there's something seriously wrong with you sledge technique.

Hit you in the kneecap, perhaps. In the chest maybe, if your foolish enough to swing a sledge at a target higher than your waist. But in the eye? :no:

[mic-d]

I guess a difference in tools kits would become obvious if your dealing with logs as opposed to branches.
You could get away with a bow saw, axe, froe & beetle, and drawknife, if it was the latter.
If you intend working larger scale, with slabs from logs, you'll need to go towards a larger cross-cut saw, wedges & sledge, adze, and maybe a side axe. More muscle and sweat!:p

Cheers

Thanks Andy, I'll be trying a log first off:o


:whs: :yes:

And not to be a nit-picker (although I'm the first to confess I am :-) if you swing a sledge and a skelp (My new word for the day. :) ) flies off the wedge and takes out your eye, then there's something seriously wrong with you sledge technique.

Hit you in the kneecap, perhaps. In the chest maybe, if your foolish enough to swing a sledge at a target higher than your waist. But in the eye? :no:

I asked google to explain what a beetle was and chanced upon this site:
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/green-woodworking/

There's some good piccies there on splitting a log and some got me thinking about skelps. I could see when hammering a wedge into the end of the log, the impact could be in the eye line. I'll make sure I wear protection if a maul can't be found.

I still don't know what a beetle is

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

As far as I know a beetle is a club, made from a root or knot and used as a hammer with a froe. Expected to wear out and be replaced... not an expensive bought tool, but made roughly by the user.
"A coppice worker's mallet is a homemade cudgel or maul, made in one piece from a small log, with one end shaved down to form a handle. The tool is also known as a batter, beater, beetle, cudgel, club or maul."
From http://www.workingwoodlands.info/bodging_tools.php Cheers

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

There's some good piccies there on splitting a log and some got me thinking about skelps. I could see when hammering a wedge into the end of the log, the impact could be in the eye line. I'll make sure I wear protection if a maul can't be found.

OK, I take your point. I'll withdraw my "nit," but I'll let the "pick" stand. :wink:

'Cos normally you don't drive the end wedge in with anything like the force that you apply to the wedges in the sides. But you're right, if one's gonna get you in the eye then that would be the time.


I still don't know what a beetle is

A kombi van to move the wood around? Maye a new species of trained, hard-shelled termite?

[mic-d]

Found a beetle here:
http://www.heartofthewood.com/riving2.htm


Hey I saw in earlier threads that you guys around Brissie get tools at the markets. Where are the markets you go to and when are they on?

Cheers
Michael

[derekh]

I'm northside and go to Caboolture markets at the showgrounds on Sunday mornings. BTW, there is a good gallery of Green Woodworking at
"http://www.bodgers.org.uk/index.php"

[Woodwould]

There's a bloke using a beetle and froe near the bottom of this page (http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.greenwoodworker.co.uk/images/Beetle__Wedge_for_splitting_a_log.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.greenwoodworker.co.uk/Archive.htm&usg=__dJ_Ym_LMjk5LV-pae5omv6Vw3z8=&h=289&w=386&sz=66&hl=en&start=1&um=1&tbnid=Vn__ncZARVsr-M:&tbnh=92&tbnw=123&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbeetle%2Bmaul%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN) on the LH side.

My ancestors were some of the forerunners of the Irish linen trade and I remember a couple of old 'beetling mills' which were basically rows of posts, the length of the mill, that were lifted and tripped by a water wheel. The posts, or beetles, pounded the wretted flax to produce the fibres from which linen is made. The fibres were then taken to a scutch mill to remove the woody matter and other debris. A dirty, lethal business.

I've seen beetles that resemble small mauls, having iron hoops around the peripheries of the business ends to prevent them from splitting.

[Woodwould]

... skelp (My new word for the day...

Do you want to change the word 'splinter' below your avatar to 'skelp'?

[Andy Mac]

The Cabarlah markets are on this Sunday. You can pick up wedges, axes, drawknives, spokeshaves etc anytime. Even some local woodwork, I dare say Funky Chicken will be there too.
Its a nice drive via Esk from Brissie.
PM for details.

Cheers

[JDarvall]

the main advantage I feel for doing it the old way, is riven stock gives the straightest grain, which yelds stronger furniture. which I find appealing. As soon as you put it through a rip saw you've weakened its natural strength somewhat. Problem is, its slow, and more waste.

I saw in the shop the other day a powered splitter, which got me thinking. Intended for those who've tired of chopping up wood for the fireplace.

[mic-d]

I would love to pop out for the markets but can't this Sunday. When are they on next?

I took a basic kit out to cut a couple of smaller branches off and have a play, but boy, I spent more time fighting the saw than cutting wood. There doesn't seem to be enough set on the bow saw blade and it kept binding. So that's the first thing to replace.

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

This will be the second last Cabarlah market for the year, the next will be in 2 weeks, on the 14 Dec. Normally they're on the last weekend of each month, but due to Xmas they bring the last one of the year fwd.
Regards your bowsaw, is it a bought one with a commercial blade? I have heard critics of home-made versions say that the use of bandsaw stock (as mine are) causes problems because of too much set. Accuracy issues, wandering blade in the kerf etc. I find the bandsaw blade ideal for green stick work, even cutting privet up to 100mm. Maybe try making a new blade and see how you go.

Cheers

[mic-d]

I pretty sure this is the last Cabarlah market for the year, as they're on the last weekend of each month, so scratch the Xmas one.
Regards your bowsaw, is it a bought one with a commercial blade? I have heard critics of home-made versions say that the use of bandsaw stock (as mine are) causes problems because of too much set. Accuracy issues, wandering blade in the kerf etc. I find the bandsaw blade ideal for green stick work, even cutting privet up to 100mm. Maybe try making a new blade and see how you go.

Cheers

That's a bummer.
It's a commercial blade, but may be a cheap crappy orange thing, not sure. How do you mount the bandsaw blade?

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

Hi Michael,
I simply drill a hole in each end of a length of band saw blade and locate it with a suitable pin through the handle extension rods, even a nail will hold it. Drilling the blade doesn't seem to be a big issue although its harder than mild steel.
BTW, there is another market here in two weeks, have edited the post above.

Cheers

[mic-d]

Thanks Andy, I might get a hand on a broken blade and give it a go!

Here's the branch I cut today, will it split, will it split?
You betcha! It splits beautifully. I quartered it, eighthed it, sixteenthed it (if they are words) and then planed one piece down to a small board. It's lovely to work.

It's Meleleuca bracteata.

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

Nice work, its come up great.:D You could use them as slats for a seat maybe.
What plane are you using, have you modified the blade for roughing, like a scrub?

Cheers,

[weisyboy]

if ya buying an adze youned to buy two 4 gallon drums to.:U

i have a 1tpi 30mm bansaw blade sitting in the shop as well as 2 otehr blades you can have if you like.

the blades on those orange saws are crap.

good to see it splits well.

for spliting posts we have about 5 wedges this is for lengths 2m long. and dont use an axe to drive wedges as it opens the head up and teh handle will fall off. make yourself a good maul from some tight spotty.

a peice of old car spring makes a good fore.

oh and on you coments the other day you lay the log down to split it not stan it on end.:2tsup:

[mic-d]

Nice work, its come up great.:D You could use them as slats for a seat maybe.
What plane are you using, have you modified the blade for roughing, like a scrub?

Cheers,

Andy just using a plain old Stanley 4 1/2, not even modified for roughing, just my standard hone for smoothing with the corners slightly relieved. I have the frog set back a bit though and the cap iron lifted a bit.


if ya buying an adze youned to buy two 4 gallon drums to.:U

i have a 1tpi 30mm bansaw blade sitting in the shop as well as 2 otehr blades you can have if you like.

the blades on those orange saws are crap.

good to see it splits well.

for spliting posts we have about 5 wedges this is for lengths 2m long. and dont use an axe to drive wedges as it opens the head up and teh handle will fall off. make yourself a good maul from some tight spotty.

a peice of old car spring makes a good fore.

oh and on you coments the other day you lay the log down to split it not stan it on end.:2tsup:

Thanks Weisy, good info there. I won't use the axe for a wedge anymore. I wouldn't mind taking those bandsaw blades off you thanks!
Not sure I understand the 4 gallon drum reference with the adze, do you mean to stand in so I don't lop myself off at the ankles?:wink:

The heartwood of that timber has really lightened up to a tassie myrtle colour:)
Cheers
Michael

[derekh]

As requested, here are some photos of my Green Woodworking gear. The Pole (Bungee) Lathe and Shave Horse were made from scrap materials as a proof of concept. I will rebuild the lathe bed with recycled hardwood and change how the poppets secure themselves to the lathe bed.

The froe was made by a blacksmith friend as a prototype. The rest were acquired from the Caboolture markets. The oldest drawknife is circa 1910, there is a Robert Sorby in there as well. I lack the artistic imagination to do these tools justice. I'm hoping time and practice will cure that.

cheers
Derek

[weisyboy]

yer it was always said that you had to stand in a coupla 4 gallon drums when learning how to use and adze or you could be a foot shorter at the end of the day.

[Andy Mac]

As requested, here are some photos of my Green Woodworking gear. The Pole (Bungee) Lathe and Shave Horse were made from scrap materials as a proof of concept. I will rebuild the lathe bed with recycled hardwood and change how the poppets secure themselves to the lathe bed.

The froe was made by a blacksmith friend as a prototype. The rest were acquired from the Caboolture markets. The oldest drawknife is circa 1910, there is a Robert Sorby in there as well. I lack the artistic imagination to do these tools justice. I'm hoping time and practice will cure that.

cheers
Derek

Nice looking kit there Derek. That side axe looks very similar to mine. What's your impression of using the shaving horse, good thing eh!?

Cheers.

[mic-d]

As requested, here are some photos of my Green Woodworking gear. The Pole (Bungee) Lathe and Shave Horse were made from scrap materials as a proof of concept. I will rebuild the lathe bed with recycled hardwood and change how the poppets secure themselves to the lathe bed.

The froe was made by a blacksmith friend as a prototype. The rest were acquired from the Caboolture markets. The oldest drawknife is circa 1910, there is a Robert Sorby in there as well. I lack the artistic imagination to do these tools justice. I'm hoping time and practice will cure that.

cheers
Derek

Hi Derek, you've gone to a lot of trouble taking the photos. Thanks:2tsup: What are the different uses for the different shaped draw knives ? And what's the big lump of wood for?

Cheers
Michael

[derekh]

Michael, that specially selected and crafted lump of wood is my Beetle for the froe. It's a branch of a box tree that fell on my property out west. I kinda got addicted to buying drawknives, so apart from the scorp (the rounded one) they are not for special purposes, some feel better in the hand. The oldest one (1910) at the back with the thinner curved blade is my favourite. It just feels right.

I really like using the Shave Horse. It has a strange theraputic sensation to it, quietly sitting and shaping timber is very calming. Physical yes but calming. You can achieve a fair bit in reasonable time. I think there is a place for a shave horse and drawknife in every workshop.

[mic-d]

Thanks Derek, missed your post last time around.

Here's another interesting green woodworking blog:
http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2008/07/

Cheers
Michael

[prozac]

I seem to have missed catching-up on this thread for a while. Michael you have been making some progress of late. I really like the pictorial on the splitting of the log. Only thing that spoilt it was the use of an iron bodied plane instead of wooden body.

Carl, if Michael is splitting his log with a froe then wouldn't the log need to be on-end? Are you saying that if using an axe and wedges then the log should be presented side on? What is the best method to secure the log to prevent it rolling when struck?

Derek, where did you get the dimensions for your shave horse? I know what you mean about the drawknives. They are all so different you just have to have one more...just in case.

I wish we had markets in my neck of the woods like the ones you blokes go to in Qld, ours seem quite tame by comparison.

[mic-d]

I seem to have missed catching-up on this thread for a while. Michael you have been making some progress of late. I really like the pictorial on the splitting of the log. Only thing that spoilt it was the use of an iron bodied plane instead of wooden body.

Carl, if Michael is splitting his log with a froe then wouldn't the log need to be on-end? Are you saying that if using an axe and wedges then the log should be presented side on? What is the best method to secure the log to prevent it rolling when struck?

Derek, where did you get the dimensions for your shave horse? I know what you mean about the drawknives. They are all so different you just have to have one more...just in case.

I wish we had markets in my neck of the woods like the ones you blokes go to in Qld, ours seem quite tame by comparison.

Don't own a wooden plane:(. Yes, little bit of progress but no more than shown, the main logs I want are still in the tree waiting for the lopper to cut them out and chip the rest. That little log was just to test the wood.
Seems most people lay the log down to do the initial quartering, then I might stand it up to split it down further.

Cheers
Michael

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

As requested, here are some photos of my Green Woodworking gear.

A nice collection, Derek! A bit beyond "basic" in the strictest sense, but who here would quibble? :D

Actually, it reminds me a lot of my Grand-dad's work tote. The only difference I can pick (although I'm relying on ancient memory here) is that he also had several axes and a couple of the ol' bushies cross-cut saws.

[weisyboy]

a log will st on one side naturally they all have a flat side. :2tsup:

[prozac]

Thx Carl.

[derekh]

I didn't really have set dimensions to work from. I have a standard 200*50 treated pine sleeper and just positioned things as they felt right. The main beam is 1300 long, short enough to fit in the back of my Navara and is 450 high, tall enough for my short legs :). Everything else is positioned accordingly.

BTW, I picked up another drawknife from eBay during the week.

[mic-d]

Hi Michael,
I simply drill a hole in each end of a length of band saw blade and locate it with a suitable pin through the handle extension rods, even a nail will hold it. Drilling the blade doesn't seem to be a big issue although its harder than mild steel.
BTW, there is another market here in two weeks, have edited the post above.

Cheers

Geeze Andy, I must have gotten a really hard blade. I could barely mark it with a bimetal hacksaw blade and drilling it with HSS twist drills (just a 3mm for a pilot hole) only made a dimple:no: I tried a few different sizes and some oil, but the only thing I could get to work was a spear-point tungsten tile drill, which ate it up. No I'm off to try it out:U
I tested the saw and it don't work. I see the problem though, the teeth have a positive rake, a really positive rake and I just can't push it. Do you use a negative rake bandsaw blade.
Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

Geeze Andy, I must have gotten a really hard blade. I could barely mark it with a bimetal hacksaw blade and drilling it with HSS twist drills (just a 3mm for a pilot hole) only made a dimple:no: I tried a few different sizes and some oil, but the only thing I could get to work was a spear-point tungsten tile drill, which ate it up. No I'm off to try it out:U

Cheers
Michael

That does sound like a hard blade. Generally I go for lots of pressure with a slow speed. I have heard that you can spot anneal the drill site, by applying a cherry red poker (heated up with oxy) directly to it and then let the blade cool slowly before drilling.

Good luck,
Andy

[mic-d]

Ta Andy. It didn't make a good blade because there was too much positive rake on the teeth. What style of bandsaw blade do you use?

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

Not exactly sure, just cast-offs from work. I'll find the details and get back to you, but I know they have hardened tips and we never get them sharpened...just one use items.

Cheers

[mic-d]

Thanks Andy, I just dropped the old blade back to Richard and he suggested modifying the teeth:doh::doh: Duh, why didn't I think of that. Although I'm not sure the file would survive the job.

Cheers
Michael

[mic-d]

Stu from the Toolexchange let me come up today and have a hands-on feel of his drawknives before I settled on one. I bought a nice folding one that sits nicely in the hands.
What an eye opener his sheds are!:oo: Tools upon tools upon crates of tools. It's a very dangerous place to visit. I also ended up buying

a froe

a Stanley #40 scrub plane

a Record a151 spokeshave

a LH side axe

a Millers Falls 56b low angle block plane

That takes care of my tool purchases for the next coule of years:doh:

Think it's about time to do some green woodwork:D

Cheers
Michael

[derekh]

Congrats on your purchases. He has an impressive range as seen on his web site and more so in person when he was at the Toowoomba Swap Meet. He has so many tools and I have so little money :)

[prozac]

Never happened Michael.......unless of-course you have photos!

[mic-d]

Never happened Michael.......unless of-course you have photos!
:D
First 5 photos are of the gear I picked up yesterday. That is an after shot of the side axe after sharpening, the before shot didn't happen. Not knowing much about axe shapening I just fettled the back on my lapping gear starting at 60g and moving through to 4000 water stone to remove the blemishes from the surface, then used a bastard file to file the edge back to a reasonable contour clear of marks and then did the bevel with a bastard, mill, diamond stone and honed with waterstones. It has a nice convex contour but doesn't take hairs off. Will see how it works and modify it if necessary. The last photo is of all the green woodworking tools I've put together, now just need to make some gluts and a beetle. Now I just need a project to make. Perhaps a saw horse.
I don't know what brand the axe is and the only markings on the drawknife are av1660.
Cheers
Michael

[prozac]

That's a fine looking kit you have there Michael. I esp. like the froe. The side axe is a Kentish pattern, could be a brades.

[mic-d]

A litttle update on the log splitting. A fellow woodie recommended I should at least halve the logs now if nothing else is achieved for another couple of months. So with about 1/2hr of belting wedges one of the logs came apart, and much easier than I was expecting. would have been even faster too if the head didn't keep coming off the little sledgie.:((
That was the bigger of the two so hopefully the next one will be even faster.

hmmm, the log looks much smaller than it really is, honest!

[mic-d]

Had some successes, some failures. The other smaller log split OK too. The larger log I'm working on jammed 2 of my wedges so I made some timber wedges out of old hardwood and managed with the help of 2 other steel wedges to get them out. Then I got 3 wedges jammed:doh:. I found that timber wedges do not like being beaten too hard, they all split. Do you ever whack the timber wedges really hard? I also broke the handle on the little sledgie. How do you make a handle that can stand up to belting steel wedges as hard as possible?:? Just can't get this log to give up.

Cheers
Michael

[mic-d]

The first exercise in self flagellation is finished (next time I will just go to church and confess my sins:wink:)

The last and biggest log finally gave up this morning and I then continued and split it, along an existing crack, into 3 sections.

I learnt a lot splitting these logs, the first rule is not to do it again:wink:

Now I need to decide what to make:?
1000 boxes
6 seat windsor chair dining setting
a fence:p
pile it up for x-country jumps:roll:

photo1, the big log just about to give up
photo2 and 3 some wooden assistance. I discovered that the best shape for wooden wedges is not a long tapering shape like in my previous post but shorter fatter wedges that are tapped in to maintain the gap made by the steel wedge (hence they don't need to have a pointy end). In bigger logs, when the gap opens beyond the size of the steel wedge, the timber wedge can be used to fill the gap and the stell wedge driven in beside it as in photo 3
Photo4, the stuff.
Photo5, the stuffed.:)

Oh some other things I learnt:
Leapfrogging the wedges is best. Don't bash the wedge in out of sight, fill the gap with a timber wedge, pull the steel wedge and move on. Don't stick your hand in the gap. A 14lb sledgie is just too heavy, a 4lb and an 8lb is plenty I opted to buy a fibreglass handled 4lb'er . Try and sit the log so when it gives up it comes apart, it's no fun fighting the log if the ground is assisting the halves in staying together. Use an axe to cut the fibres connecting the two halves in the split, it helps. Don't beat the timber wedges too hard, that's not their purpose, leave the beatings for the steel wedges. Don't use the axe to beat anything. 6 different sized wedges was plenty for the largest log I did.


Cheers
Michael

[silentC]

Are you contemplating purchasing a chainsaw in the last photo? I would be :)

[mic-d]

Are you contemplating purchasing a chainsaw in the last photo? I would be :)

:no::no::no:

I'm scared of chainsaws.
Remember the thread about what 'handmade' means? :wink::wink::wink:

Cheers
Michael

[silentC]

Yeah, you use your hand to control the throttle :D

Well, I'm sure it will be very satisfying when you've finally made something with it.

[mic-d]

Yeah, you use your hand to control the throttle :D

Well, I'm sure it will be very satisfying when you've finally made something with it.


What! Don't you recognise what I have just finished is installation art, it just need a catchy title:wink:

Cheers
Michael

[prozac]

Last photo, LOL. Very contemplative study.

[mic-d]

Last photo, LOL. Very contemplative study.

Aye, that it is. The axe book arrived a month or so ago. It was very good reading, so thanks for the recommendation, and I too would like to visit them one day.

Cheers
Michael

[prozac]

Aye, that it is. The axe book arrived a month or so ago. It was very good reading, so thanks for the recommendation, and I too would like to visit them one day.

Cheers
Michael

Now that's a holiday; learning to blacksmith an axe in Sweden, perhaps build the log house too, over to UK to do a chair making course, maybe some carving, then up to Scotland to the Isle of Islay for a 5 day in-house course at the Bruichladdich Distillery on single malt processing from cutting the malt to lying under the vat tap to catch the drips.
http://www.bruichladdich.com/the_academy.htm

[prozac]

A good read here of a commercial whisky buyers stay at the distillery course - http://www.bruichladdich.com/academyimages/susansdiary.pdf