Tips on blocking down a root ball?

[rsser]

Never done this before.

Obviously you remove any stones and dirt that you can get to.

After that? Does the grain run every which way like a burl so it doesn't matter too much about orienting your cuts?

Intention is to get some slices for bowls.

It's Jacaranda.

Pic 1 is of the top and you can see some nice bark swirls.

Other pics are of the sides. On one there's a deep recess which runs to 100-150mm from the top. (The cream stuff is wax.)

Thanks to Thumbsucker for the gift.

[wheelinround]

nice big piece rsser:o

Yep Grain will run every which way look out for stons rocks which have become part of the growing roots hidden well in.

[Ed Reiss]

Lots of possibilities there...good find:2tsup:

Did you use a pressure washer to clean out the hollows? Dirt in there messes with the chain.

[rsser]

Thumbsucker cleaned it up; not sure how.

When we trimmed a block of branchwood off more dirt and stones were revealed.

[hughie]

Ern,

Hmm it kinda depends on what you have in mind to turn out of it. One big bowl, several small ones, platters etc.
If it was on my lathe and one big bowl was the go. I would trim it to somewhere near the shape with the bandsaw etc. Smaller ones most likely cut it in half, or blocks of near size.

But either way I think you have your work cut out for you, good piece to test one of those C1's or some such TCT cutter. I reckon in the beginning its going to rip the daylights out of your tools, sand, grit maybe the odd nail etc. :o :C :~ :U

Look forward to the pics, should be good :2tsup: very interesting problem you have there

[rsser]

Yep Hughie. A bit of a challenge.

I suspect I'll get the most out of it with several bowl blanks; can't lift a big lump atm anyway. And have promised Thumbsucker a piece.

Can I also ask for tips on sharpening the CS? (Had to do it once for this lump already, partly my fault for touching the footpath when getting off the branch block :-). The chipper cutting edge needs to be 30 degrees and that works with the file jig. The jig also has the option to tilt the file away from horizontal. Should I be using this facility? ... the chain has been sharpened a number of times, the jig is fairly sloppy, so the original grind is no longer there as a guide. EDIT: found the chain box; the handle should be dropped 10 degrees. I've made a hash of it; will forge ahead and take the chain down to a dealer for a full regrind when done.

Just to add: the top is about 40 cm square, and it tapers down to the base over about 50 cm.

And the 'branch block' was actually a root block.

[TTIT]

Act 1, Scene 1

Shudders

Cringes

Tip-toes out of room!


:no:

[rsser]

LOL.

Ah, why the cringing and shuddering Vern?

Damage to the CS?

[robutacion]

Never done this before.

Obviously you remove any stones and dirt that you can get to.

After that? Does the grain run every which way like a burl so it doesn't matter too much about orienting your cuts?

Intention is to get some slices for bowls.

It's Jacaranda.

Pic 1 is of the top and you can see some nice bark swirls.

Other pics are of the sides. On one there's a deep recess which runs to 100-150mm from the top. (The cream stuff is wax.)

Thanks to Thumbsucker for the gift.

Hi rsser,

Well, as my opinion I would do this;
1- Get a 9" grinder with a new wide grinding disk ready.
2- Turn the root into the position it was on the ground.(most grain will run up-wards)
3- I the root is tall enough (example, 80cm tall, it will produce 2x 40 cm halves, because the root is not square the bigger slabs will be capable to make a 35cm bowl), cut in in half (from hight, if positioned upright).
4- If cut into 2 parts, lay the flat cut down and make the decision of slabbing it (cut slices of 2" to 4" wide or more if needed) or cut 4 edges (root outer surface), about 5" at the wider point, ending up with a clean cube from the root centre, you the slice it at the widths you want. If you decide to do the first option (slabbing), mark the centre of the root first and then mark the cuts before you start cutting, this way you will have the centre slab as the biggest size possible of the root, normally the best piece!
5- If not cut in half, all the other steps do apply.
6- If you got plenty of chains and like to sharp them, then put the 9" grinder away.
7- If you want to save the chain a little, run the grinder where the chain will go, just deep enough to clean most of the surface dirt. Maybe a little smoky job, but good for the chain. Obviously, the grinder can not go in all places, nor it will solve the problem with deep "UFOs" or dirty holes. A better option but a very expensive one, would be a tungsten tipped chain, you wouldn't need the grinder, but you would need about $450 for a 18" chain, and plenty of luck of not hitting too much dirt, no big rocks and definitely no metal, as they get damaged a lot easier than most people would think, are expensive to sharp.

Keeping older chains sharp for this type jobs, is a lot better and economical option.

PS: This is what I've done with the olive root a few months ago, explained in the thread, "Raised from the ground"

Good luck with it!

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[robutacion]

Hahahahahaha, posts 6, 7 & 8 had happen while I was typing mine...!:doh:

If you got only one chain, use the grinder if you have one, and keep the chain cutting the best you can, stopping and touching up with the file a little more often.

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[TTIT]

...........Damage to the CS?Nah! CS is fixable, chisels can be resharpened, dents in various shed hardware can beaten out - it's your sense of worth .................. and sanity, that could be at risk :;

[rsser]

Good tips there RBTCO.

Grinder wheel: masonary or steel or doesn't it matter?

...

The lump is pear-shaped (cough!). So I could cut it in two with the deep recess facing out on one side. That piece could be blocked down into smaller pieces, and the other side might yield a decent-sized bowl .. voids, sand and stones permitting.

[rsser]

it's your sense of worth .................. and sanity, that could be at risk :;

No mountain too steep, no challenge denied ... into the breach! And all that drivel :rolleyes:

[Calm]

Ern my chains cost $1 per inch of bar + $15 so just cut it, throw the cahin away if buggered and then tell yourself that was a cheap blank at under $30.

For a job like that it wont matter how the chain is sharpened it wont cut straight as soon as you hit anything foreign.

Good luck

David

[rsser]

Thanks David.

I don't mind dulling the chain. It's just the time needed to resharpen it that's a pill.

You're quite right about the cut wandering. But on a piece this size that could cost a lot of wood. That said, I dunno what the figure will look like inside. Could be boring; could be magic. Would hate to waste much of it if magic.

[Calm]

Thanks David.

I don't mind dulling the chain. It's just the time needed to resharpen it that's a pill.

You're quite right about the cut wandering. But on a piece this size that could cost a lot of wood. That said, I dunno what the figure will look like inside. Could be boring; could be magic. Would hate to waste much of it if magic.

Sounds like an add for a BOWL SAVER:D:D:p:p:q:q

[rsser]

True.

Wanna sell yours?

[Calm]

True.

Wanna sell yours?

Not really i havent used it yet much as i need a better lathe - doesnt slip the belt and slower than 500 rpm - if you have a lump of cypress to trial on take it to DJ's for a demo then take the bowl saver home with you for a while - no probs.

Cheers

[robutacion]

Good tips there RBTCO.

Grinder wheel: masonary or steel or doesn't it matter?

...

The lump is pear-shaped (cough!). So I could cut it in two with the deep recess facing out on one side. That piece could be blocked down into smaller pieces, and the other side might yield a decent-sized bowl .. voids, sand and stones permitting.

It doesn't really matter rsser, the disk will only go so far before it start burning the timber (smoking), what I would suggest is that you give it a couple of passes to widen the cut a little, as the chain is wider than the disk. I don't know what size bar and chain, you are using but, the quickest and easiest way to keep the chain cutting straight and reasonably well, is to re-sharp the cutters as soon as it show signs of being blunt with a diamond chain sharpener or any of the Dremal type stones, made for this purpose. Is no need to remove the chain out of the chainsaw at all, a quick run free handed to each cutter, both sides, shouldn't take any more than 5 minutes on a 18" chain. In these sort of situations, the chain can last sharp from 1 second to 15 minutes, the grinder can save you lots of extra sharpening. If by the end of the job, the chain is very worn from sharpening, replacement of the chain still a very good investment, for what you can get out of it. You will be ahead in the time that will take to cut it to pieces and the quality of what you are cutting, if the chain is cutting well, compared with the time, bar damage, extra fuel, oil and wasted timber, if the chain doesn't cut.

I think also that the way you are thinking in cut/slice that root ball, is a good plan...!:D

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[rsser]

Thanks RBTCO.

For the chain cutters I use a file in a jig, as posted earlier.

Yep, sharp is good, until it's not :-{

[hughie]

Ern, yep get a pro to reshape and sharpen your chain. While your at it ask him about the TCT chains. They use them in slabbing etc, wont be cheap but it could be an option for any more of the same you get your hands on.

[robutacion]

Ern, yep get a pro to reshape and sharpen your chain. While your at it ask him about the TCT chains. They use them in slabbing etc, wont be cheap but it could be an option for any more of the same you get your hands on.

Hi hughie,

Yeah well, that was the intention and believe, when I decide to by one for my 18" chainsaw, 3 years ago. Unfortunately, $450 for the chain and $90 for a diamond file (sharpen the tungsten tips), end-up being one of the worse investments I haver made. I followed all the recommendations for its use, etc., and by the end of the first hour of use, it was blunt and 8 tips broken or missing. Is no such thing as warranty or return if not satisfied, with these type of items. An absolute pain to sharpen, it did become a last option use chain, instead of first option chain, for the intent it was purchase initially, (cutting/slicing, tree roots, dirty logs). I found quicker and much cheaper to use the grinder and a normal chain. Is no easy job to sharpen a tungsten tipped chain with a single file in the middle of nowhere, and with so much more timber to cut. I worked out that using a small generator and a grinder for remote locations, combined with a dozen of used chains (70% and under), new and first 30% of use, try to put them on clean timbers, I would get the job done quicker and with less stress on the bars and machine(s) [chainsaw(s)].

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[artme]

:D:DBe brave as well as old fashioned and you won´t have to worry about chipping, and resharpeng for th first step. Just get out the 14 pounder and the wedges.

Great find Ern. Should provide some interesting pieces.:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[wheelinround]

All this chit chat about sharpening CS you could have had it cut with a bit of physical effort a Bush saw even an Axe and split it :p or Bandsaw after all it is only Jacaranda :doh::roll:

I'd hate to see a newly sharpened CS hit gravel, stones, rocks imbeded :oo:

[hughie]

Yeah well, that was the intention and believe, when I decide to by one for my 18" chainsaw, 3 years ago. Unfortunately, $450 for the chain and $90 for a diamond file (sharpen the tungsten tips), end-up being one of the worse investments I haver made. I followed all the recommendations for its use, etc., and by the end of the first hour of use, it was blunt and 8 tips broken or missing. Is no such thing as warranty or return if not satisfied, with these type of items. An absolute pain to sharpen, it did become a last option use chain, instead of first option chain, for the intent it was purchase initially, (cutting/slicing, tree roots, dirty logs). I found quicker and much cheaper to use the grinder and a normal chain. Is no easy job to sharpen a tungsten tipped chain with a single file in the middle of nowhere, and with so much more timber to cut. I worked out that using a small generator and a grinder for remote locations, combined with a dozen of used chains (70% and under), new and first 30% of use, try to put them on clean timbers, I would get the job done quicker and with less stress on the bars and machine(s) [chainsaw(s)].



:U yeah well I suppose the hipe from the chainsaw mob is only to sell the chains etc. I looked at these chains when I was contemplating doing some slabbing.
Much appreciated for the heads up, wont be buying one of those TCT chains

[rsser]

Wedges may not work too well; it's a big lump and if the grain runs every which way there's no predicting a straight split. It's likely that the wedges will get buried anyway.

A bow saw is not a bad idea but would be a sh*tload of work. The top is 40 cm wide remember and the first cut would be 50 cm down.

[bowl-basher]

Thanks David.

I don't mind dulling the chain. It's just the time needed to resharpen it that's a pill.

You're quite right about the cut wandering. But on a piece this size that could cost a lot of wood. That said, I dunno what the figure will look like inside. Could be boring; could be magic. Would hate to waste much of it if magic.


Got a neat little jig that fits on my Dremel found it at Bunnies cost around $20.0

real quick compared to the file
BB

[robutacion]

:U yeah well I suppose the hipe from the chainsaw mob is only to sell the chains etc. I looked at these chains when I was contemplating doing some slabbing.
Much appreciated for the heads up, wont be buying one of those TCT chains

Sorry hughie, that I did put a bucket of icy water over your idea but, you wouldn't believe what I was told about the super quality and functionality of these chains. I had at least a dozen emails telling me how good they are. One thing that stuck to my head still, was the fact that "all our tests proved that our tungsten tipped chains, will last 20 times longer then a normal chain before it needs sharpening...!":~:no:

I may even could have had a "bad" chain, or a made in Chine branded chain, I will never know for sure, but you can't blame me, for being a little off about them! huh?:D

rsser, unfortunately (or fortunately you may think...!:wink:) I'm too far away, otherwise I would mind to give you a hand with that root ball. I always like that sort of challenge and expectation on what can be inside of something like that, apart from timber, obviously...!:doh:.

We all waiting for the results...!:roll:

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[DJ’s Timber]

If you can, bring it to the turning weekend and I'll cut it up for you, got some chains that are starting to get down to the end and we can use these as they can be thrown out afterwards :;

[rsser]

Thanks for the offer DJ.

Trouble is I can't lift it; only roll it, so I'll have at it and see what happens.

[DJ’s Timber]

No worries :2tsup:

[Elbow]

Ern have you thought of trying an Arbortech carving wheel on an angle grinder, ther tough as anything.

Allan

[rsser]

Good point Allan.

Would only go in about an inch and a half though and it'd be hard to maintain a line.

[rsser]

Pity I'm not on good terms with a radiographer ... put the lump through a CAT scanner ;-}

[joe greiner]

However you cut it, seal it well, and store it well - off the ground and covered. Examine it frequently, and carve or turn it as soon as possible. I've cut some smaller and less spectacular root balls, and had to pitch some of them when I waited too long while Mama Nature did her deed.:-

Joe

[rsser]

Thanks for the tip Joe.