Rustic furniture tool kit

[Andy Mac]

Hi there,
Inspired by mic-d's recent thread about a tool kit for breaking down green wood, I thought I'd post my set of tools that I use for green woodwork or rustic furniture making. Reason for the seperate thread is simply because not all these tools could be considered for breaking down, more like actual making.

I don't really work in large stock, as in starting with logs and splitting them up. I tend towards sticks and branches, like Dan Mack.
However, I do have a set of tools for that job, with a chainsaw and the gear pictured first. Included are wedges, side axe, froe and a gimp hammer, a couple of adzes including that double ended one I made.

The next photo is my basic set that I'd take bush in a bag, along with folding shaving horse. Missing is the battery drill (left it elsewhere on the job), as I prefer working with spade bits, but I do have a good set of auger bits too. The block of silver ash with holes is a gauge to match to the spade bits, which are home made. I find secatuers a great addition to the kit, to remove smaller branches. That drawknife is simply my favourite, the first one I bought. The pruning saw is new, as my folding one broke (and sliced a finger). I modified the handle a bit.

Next post has a more complete set.

Thanks for looking,

[Andy Mac]

Here is my complete set, well almost anyway:rolleyes:.
I guess most of the tools would be used closer to home, in the garden or the workshop, using my good (and bl**dy heavy) shaving horse.
Many of them I've made, and a number of them don't work overly well.:- The tenon rounders could be better, and real tool maker suggested I put a relief on the edge, to change the cutting angle. The tapered reamer is not my favourite tool, but it was an experiment. I'll stick to straight tenons I think, although I have included my most recent tool, that tapered spade bit, top right. Hot off the bench tonight, it works quite well, but its not for me...you may see someone else on the forum showing it off!
The scorp is a tricky tool to use, and I prefer a small adze followed by a carving gouge when hollowing seats etc. Two tools I did forget to include are a great ugly hollowing shave that was given to me, and a scraper to follow it.
On the top left is a little travisher I made. As a tool they are made specific to finished diameters, to clean down a spindle after shaving. This one works well, but to tell the truth I much prefer a piece of stick furniture with visible shaving marks left behind! A whittled article, not a turned finish.
A mitre gauge is good to have when setting out splayed legs, drilling to suit natural curves etc.
The small steel plate is a dowel making plate. It sits across the horse and lengths of wood or bamboo are driven through progressively smaller holes.
Two of my four bowsaws are pictured, a medium and the little coping saw size, both home made.
I don't have any chairmakers spoon bits, and have failed in my attempts to forge one. Standard auger bits do OK.
Not included are clamps, and one of the handiest are those ratcheting straps.
I think the rest are self explanatory, but any questions or suggestions, just pipe up!

Cheers

[derekh]

Thanks for showing us this Andy. Apart from the Travishers, Rounders and the Bow Saws my kit is comparable. That makes me feel good knowing I'm on the right track as far as a kit goes. All I need now is time and skill and knowledge and artistic flair and .......

[mic-d]

Thanks Andy, I really appreciate seeing the photos Derek and you have posted. A question about the tapered spade bit. Can you make me one that tapers the other way so the bottom of the hole is wider than the top?

I have a Wolf pruning saw that takes an extension handle and I found that it was much easier to use than the single handed handle.

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

A question about the tapered spade bit. Can you make me one that tapers the other way so the bottom of the hole is wider than the top?

Hi Michael,
I think I know what you're asking, for there to be space inside for expansion or a wedge, but I can't think of anyway to do it. At first it would seem a contradiction to common sense, but maybe....:? A scribing effect inside the bore?
I think a standard taper is a good joint when weight is pressing down onto legs, and the tenon will keep in contact with the hole despite it shrinking, unlike a straight (parallel) tenon. I think Woodwould can confirm that.

Cheers

[mic-d]

Hi Michael,
I think I know what you're asking, for there to be space inside for expansion or a wedge, but I can't think of anyway to do it. At first it would seem a contradiction to common sense, but maybe....:? A scribing effect inside the bore?
I think a standard taper is a good joint when weight is pressing down onto legs, and the tenon will keep in contact with the hole despite it shrinking, unlike a straight (parallel) tenon. I think Woodwould can confirm that.

Cheers

Sorry Andy, I should have put a wink on it, it's the Irish in me I guess. Hope you didn't think about it too long:B

Cheers
Michael

[Andy Mac]

Sorry Andy, I should have put a wink on it, it's the Irish in me I guess. Hope you didn't think about it too long:B

Cheers
Michael

Alright, got me there!:- Reminded me of a page of fictitious fasteners for sheetmetal I once saw, like offset rivets when holes don't align!:U

It did get me thinking of something I've seen, about putting a scribed line or groove around a round tenon in chairmaking. Have a feeling it was to lock up swelling joints??

Cheers

[JDarvall]

Looks good Andy... always interesting seeing others tools.

This may interest you.

I want to make myself an adze one day to carve out seats, like this bloke does. American indian type of adze I think. Its just a (roughly) 60 degree elbow branch, with a blade fastened to it with a string.

Quite impressed with his technique using it the most. got a board in front of him, with a lip at the bottom, and the seat just rests on the lip.......he just holds the seat in his left hand and chops away with his right. Rotating the seat to break chips.

Just like the way he can stand casually doing it off his workbench, rather than on the floor.

[Andy Mac]

Thanks Jake,
Room for thought there. I have seen even Western style adzes with that steep angle on them before, used for bowls, Gunfors make one
I found this supplier (http://www.rockisland.com/%7Ekestrel/adze.html) which shows a similar traditional tool, in a range of sizes and in kit form too.
And just found a great site here (http://www.northbayforge.com/adzcrooks.htm), more insight into construction of them! Simple metal work anyway.

Cheers

[JDarvall]

Thanks Andy for the links.

I was thinking of using an old carving chisel for the blade. Like a scoop. Amazed how strong that binding works.