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Wongo
15th December 2008, 10:59 AM
I am currently building a 8 ft long table for a forum member. I have built a number of 2m+ long tables but this is BIG.:o I reckon a project like this is not something you should take on unless you have the experience, tools and space.

Finding the timber
I prefer to use 1 piece of wood to building my table legs rather then gluing 2 pieces together. So my first step was to find around 4m of 4x4 (100mm X 100mm). 4x4 hardwood poles are hard to find these days. Timberyards don’t like to stock them because they tend to crack internally.

After a few trips to Anagote and Ironwood, I found some Jarrah from Anagote. They also had some beautiful long boards for the top and rails.:;

Wongo
15th December 2008, 11:22 AM
Making the legs

The legs were milled to 80mm square and then cut to 75cm in length. I tapered the inside of legs. It started from 30 mm below the rail and finished at 65mm square at the bottom.

The rail-to-leg joint
I used the Domino.:2tsup: I cut a mortise to max 28mm deep. Since the biggest domino available is 50 mm, so I made my own out of jarrah. They are 56mm long and 10mm thick.

Wongo
15th December 2008, 11:42 AM
Gluing the base

I cut the mortises (Domino) on the top side of the rails. They are for the buttons to go into when I attach the top to the base later on. It is much easier to do it before the base is glued.

When I did my first table, I glued the base together in 1 go. I had to work very fast and I found it really difficult to keep things square.

Now I do it in 2 stages. First I glue the legs to the short rails then I glue them to the long rails.

Keeping the legs vertical and the rail square

As you apply pressure to the top of the legs, the bottom will spread. So I clamped a piece of timber to the bottom of the legs to make sure the legs are parallel. I also clamped a piece of MDF to the top to make the frame square.

Wongo
15th December 2008, 11:47 AM
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the rails are 95mm high and 35mm thick. A rail in that size has to be strong. One way to test its strength is to sit on it in the middle. It didn’t sag at all, so it is good.:2tsup:

Wongo
15th December 2008, 11:52 AM
To pin or not to pin

I decided to pin the joints with a dowel peg and cover it with a Wenge plug.

Wongo
15th December 2008, 11:58 AM
First coat as a sealer

I used 50% turps and 50% poly as my first coat. I used it as a sealer.

Wongo
15th December 2008, 12:04 PM
Building the top

I would leave the base alone for a while and started working on the top. Before I did that I thought it would be a good idea to sharpen the jointer and thicknesser blades. So I took my Tormek out and did some sharpening.

Gra
15th December 2008, 12:05 PM
Wongo,

You are a master:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Wongo
15th December 2008, 12:18 PM
Flattening the boards

The top will be 2.5m long so the boards I am working are 2.7m long. I chose them very carefully at the timberyard. I made sure they were flat and straight enough. I also bought 1 extra board as backup.

Mark the boards with a chalk so you can easily monitor the progress.

The boards started at 40mm thick. After going through the jointer and thicknesser for 3 hours, they were 31mm thick and flat. (And I was absolutely exhausted).

That’s it for today. :U

Wongdai
15th December 2008, 12:23 PM
Awesome. I can't wait for the next exciting installment. :2tsup:

m2c1Iw
15th December 2008, 12:23 PM
Very nice Wongy.
I need to make a 2m table and was thinking of using some Studley stuff. Has anyone tried mitred legs ie hollow box section instead of solid I would still glue a plug into the joint area and perhaps the bottom section. How big do you reckon the rails should be for 2m.

Mike

silentC
15th December 2008, 12:25 PM
Looking good Wongo.

One thing though: 2.5 is only 8'4". Are you adding breadboard ends to make it 10ft?

Phully
15th December 2008, 12:55 PM
Hi Guys
I am new to this group - used to mess around on the Wrec. a few years ago though.
So excuse me if I mess up a bit on some protcols.
I have a small furniture workshop/gallery in Nannup WA and work in Jarrah and Marri

This is a good job Wongo,
A table that big in Jarrah is a big job - and very satisfying.
I make quite a few tables - although dont like going over 2.400 long due to the logistics of handling them.

Although tend to make the legs up to around 140 sq with the top at around 40mm - so making them shockinly heavy.
Also do the legs as a breakdown fiting - apart from making the whole thing easier to manipulate, specialy if they being transported to the Eastern States or wherever.

A big chunky Jarrah table is always an eye catcher.
Well done

Phully

Wongo
15th December 2008, 01:25 PM
Looking good Wongo.

One thing though: 2.5 is only 8'4". Are you adding breadboard ends to make it 10ft?



:doh::doh::doh::doh::doh: Oh oh oh, how the hell did I get 10ft??

:smack: First in maths right?

:U:U

Sorry xxxx, I made it 2 ft too short. :no: Nah, 2.5m is right.:U

Wongo
15th December 2008, 01:34 PM
Very nice Wongy.
I need to make a 2m table and was thinking of using some Studley stuff. Has anyone tried mitred legs ie hollow box section instead of solid I would still glue a plug into the joint area and perhaps the bottom section. How big do you reckon the rails should be for 2m.

Mike

Mike,

I made this one out of Studley's hardwood pack.

The legs were made from 3 pieces of wood. If you do a good job then the gluelines are pretty much invisible. I did it because it was a low budget table.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/album.php?albumid=65&pictureid=868

JourneyMan
15th December 2008, 02:24 PM
Impressive as always Wongo :2tsup:

How did you go about making the loose tenon? I'm looking for a reasonably efficient way of making accurate loose tenons without a table saw...

Cheers
Ryan

Wongo
15th December 2008, 02:30 PM
I dressed the jarrah to 10 mm thick, then cut to width on a tablesaw and rounded the edges with a round-over bit on a router table.

JourneyMan
15th December 2008, 02:36 PM
Thanks - you have given me an idea! (believe it or not) :;

Rocker
15th December 2008, 02:46 PM
Very nice Wongy.
I need to make a 2m table and was thinking of using some Studley stuff. Has anyone tried mitred legs ie hollow box section instead of solid I would still glue a plug into the joint area and perhaps the bottom section. How big do you reckon the rails should be for 2m.

Mike

Mike,

I made a small table with mitred L-shaped legs, see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=18559 .

Wongo,

Looks a very handsome table.

Rocker

m2c1Iw
15th December 2008, 02:56 PM
Mike,

I made a small table with mitred L-shaped legs, see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=18559 .

Rocker

Thanks Rocker that is a very attractive alternative to what I was thinking.

Mike

Wongo
15th December 2008, 03:46 PM
Yeah, rocker has done some great pieces in the past.

How are you old man?:U Still doing much woodwork these days?

:2tsup:

AlexS
15th December 2008, 05:42 PM
Looking good Wongo. Watch do with all the shavings?:)
Are you going to glue up the top straight away or leave it for a while? There are differing opinions as to what you should do.

Rocker
15th December 2008, 06:27 PM
Yeah, rocker has done some great pieces in the past.

How are you old man?:U Still doing much woodwork these days?

:2tsup:

Wongo,

I have slowed down a bit this year, having had open-heart surgery in January; unfortunately in March & April I had a couple of fainting attacks (one of which happened in my workshop); so I am now a bit wary of using the table saw. However, I have not had any recurrence since then. My other problem is that the house is overfull of furniture already, so there is no room for any more.

I think that I may have to downsize in a year or two, so I am trying to reconcile myself to selling off my workshop full of tools.

On the other hand, I am sending over a batch of furniture next month to rellies in England, so I may be tempted to make one or two more pieces once the weather cools down a bit in the new year.

Rocker

wheelinround
15th December 2008, 08:51 PM
Wong nice table...........do you think it will be finished for Christmas

As Alex asked what's happening with the shavings makes a great dye if you want to get rid of it let me know.

Pat
15th December 2008, 09:10 PM
Wongo, looking good.


First I glue the legs to the short rails then I glue them to the long rails.

Learn't this one doing my big bench.


One way to test its strength is to sit on it in the middle. It didn’t sag at all, so it is good.

But you only weigh 50Kg wringing wet. Maybe some of the boys should come around ala the destruction testing of the z joint chairs:U

Good luck getting the boards to remain flat:)

barg2757
16th December 2008, 06:24 AM
that jarrah table is realy fine looking, wish it was available here at an affordable price. ive only seen it up close once . a blood red rustic coffe table salvaged from railroad ties imported from africa.

Panther
16th December 2008, 08:12 AM
Hi Wongo
Love the table. :2tsup: Starting one after xmas myself, looking forward to seeing how you attach the top. Seems that there are about 100 different way of doing it.

Regards
Panther

Wongo
16th December 2008, 09:30 AM
Looking good Wongo. Watch do with all the shavings?:)
Are you going to glue up the top straight away or leave it for a while? There are differing opinions as to what you should do.

I am going to give the shavings to the kids for Christmas. :U

I will glue up the top and seal it right away.

Wongo
16th December 2008, 11:48 PM
I spent the past 2 nights to arrange and re-arrange the boards. I am pretty happy with what I ended up with. Ultimately, it is timber and it is Jarrah so it will be beautiful regardless.:2tsup:

BTW, I did not arrange the ring patterns on purpose. It was purely by chance.

With a bit of luck the top will be in one piece by tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

Harry72
17th December 2008, 01:30 AM
This would match my Jarrah kitchen bench tops nicely!

Lookin good Wongi

wheelinround
17th December 2008, 07:08 AM
As always Wongo looking perfect :2tsup:

Scally
17th December 2008, 07:48 AM
Looking good Scott.

Lovely colour on the jarrah.

Three hours on the thicknesser pushing big jarrah boards.........that is exhausting work.
I bet the neighbours were pleased when you finished.

Howdya do that
17th December 2008, 02:08 PM
Could a Moderator please change the title of thread? A couple of suggestions

Building an 8FT dining table

How I stuffed a 10FT dining table

FOR SALE: Two dining chairs excess to requirements

:roflmao:

Peter36
17th December 2008, 09:36 PM
That's a beautiful table Wongo and I am looking forward to seeing the finished product:2tsup::2tsup:
I think the wenge plugs would have looked great if they were square and raised with a chamfered edge
QUOTE=Pat;861788]
But you only weigh 50Kg wringing wet. :U
:)[/QUOTE]

I can't believe wot Pat said . You must be built like Arnold Schwartzenegger
to handle that .I am doing the exercises so that when I get old and stop work I will still be able to do something big .:U:U

Wongo
17th December 2008, 11:34 PM
Making a flat top (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=61857)

Same technique except each board is 1.5m longer and 4 times heavier.

I started at 5.30pm and finished at 11pm. Crazy huh? I am very happy with the effort. Now the hardest bit is done, the rest is pretty straight forward.



Peter, I was going to do exactly what you described. Let’s just say I was too lazy so changed my mind.:-

Waldo
17th December 2008, 11:36 PM
Dominoed the top Brother?

Wongo
17th December 2008, 11:44 PM
A domino at each end for strength and 7 biscuits in between for alignment.

Waldo
17th December 2008, 11:46 PM
:2tsup:

Wongo
18th December 2008, 10:47 PM
The top came up beautifully. I used a cabinet scraper and ROS to clean up the gluelines and blade marks. The top is reasonably flat, sorry I hate to use the word perfect in woodwork, it is pretty good actually. The final width is 110cm as I planed so I am pretty happy about it.

Waldo
18th December 2008, 10:51 PM
Very smick Wongo, very. :2tsup:

Wongo
18th December 2008, 11:00 PM
Cutting the ends

This is how I align the top with to the base. The top has a 2cm overhang on the sides and 4 cm on the ends.


Place two 2cm spacers on the side of the legs
Align the top to the spacers
Clamp the top to the base
Clamp a piece of 4cm ply to the end and mark it.


This way if the base is slightly out of square then at least the top will still match it.

Marginata
18th December 2008, 11:01 PM
That's a beuty Wongo. I like the idea of using a domino at each end. What glue did you use for joining your boards?

Wongo
18th December 2008, 11:20 PM
I used a router to cut the ends. First I used a straight bit to cut to 2mm from the line, it took 10 passes. After that I used a straight bit with bearing and a straight edge under the table top to finish off the cut, this time only 1 pass.

I filled the small cracks with some 2 part clean epoxy. They will be invisible once sanded and finished.


Marginata, the glue is titebond II. It has only 5 – 10 minutes working time so I had to ask a neighbour to help me to glue up the top.

Terry B
19th December 2008, 10:42 AM
It's looking great. Can't wait to see it.
:2tsup::2tsup:

BrettC
19th December 2008, 10:58 AM
Yep,

Looks like you did a good glue up, table is looking great, keep the pics coming :2tsup:

Cheers

Howdya do that
19th December 2008, 11:12 AM
Wongo, I would like to hear more about attaching the top to the base
How far from the top do you put the holes for your buttons?
What thickness are the buttons?
How far apart?

Wongo
19th December 2008, 11:35 AM
Howdy, I think all these figures are not critical as long as they are reasonable. I will show you the pictures when it is done (without showing the finished table of course)

BobR
19th December 2008, 11:52 AM
Well done Scott. That is a great looking table. I would like to suggest that you find a better looking model for your people shots :rolleyes:

Wongo
19th December 2008, 11:59 AM
Ok :D

Wongdai
19th December 2008, 12:27 PM
Cute! :)

BobR
19th December 2008, 01:55 PM
You win !

BobL
19th December 2008, 07:50 PM
Slick Job Wongo - love that Jarrah!

brisand
19th December 2008, 10:52 PM
I made a 10 ft by 4ft jaragh table some years ago for a club I was a member of, I was a raw novice at woodwork then and my method of construction is not up to your standard, but it has stood the test of time, the base I made out of pine, stained to match the jaragh, the top was tongue & groove jaragh flooring would you believe I glued the 14 pieces together in one group, how it has stayed together in one piece is a miracle, I attached a second thickness around the perimeter to give it the required thickness, you can see the t&g on the ends where I filled in the spaces.
When I think back of how it could have beena disaster, but it was a good lesson .

Wongo
19th December 2008, 11:39 PM
That is a great looking table mate.

Pops
20th December 2008, 03:53 AM
Hi Wongo,

Wow. That 8 foot table looks like a 10 foot table with the top on.

As others have said, can,'t wait to see the table finished, those boards look superb.

Another glue question. Does the Titebond II give you invisible glue lines between the boards and have you experienced any creep with Titebond II on table tops before?

Cheers
Pops

Wongo
21st December 2008, 01:17 PM
Another glue question. Does the Titebond II give you invisible glue lines between the boards and


Pops,

I think the quality of the glue lines is determined by the quality of the joints. It shouldn’t have anything to do with the glue. After all excess glue should be removed and sanded anyway. If the joined surfaces are tight then the glue lines should be invisible.




have you experienced any creep with Titebond II on table tops before?



Not so far but I can’t tell you what will happen in 20 years. I have so much faith in glues they make these days so I don’t normally worry about it.

Wongo
21st December 2008, 01:37 PM
Wongo, I would like to hear more about attaching the top to the base
How far from the top do you put the holes for your buttons?
What thickness are the buttons?
How far apart?

I used offcuts from the table top to make the buttons. It was crosscut to 50cm wide and the rebate was cut on a router table. I sanded them and finish them with a cost of oil.

Wongo
21st December 2008, 01:42 PM
I don’t think it matters where you cut the slots as long as the ones on the end rails are wider. The slots are 20mm deep.

Wongo
21st December 2008, 01:55 PM
Another thing to do is to insert a couple of dowels to the base and drill the match dowel holes on the top. This will make things a lot easier when the top is installed on site. I placed the place on the bottom side of the table top. Aligned them, (see post 41 to find out how) and marked the dowel holes.

The dowel should be located in the middle of the end rails. This will ensure the top expands and contracts evenly from the middle.

While the table is upside down, I marked and drilled the pilot holes for the buttons.

Wongo
21st December 2008, 01:58 PM
Finish

I have done 3 costs of minwax wipe-on poly on the under side of the top and the base. Now I just need to wipe 5 coats to the top and the table is ready.:2tsup:

Pops
21st December 2008, 03:42 PM
Hi Wongo,

Thanks for the glue answers. :2tsup:

Almost done. On schedule.

Those buttons are the most professional looking buttons I have seen, sanded and oiled, very nice, well done. :2tsup:

I like the dowel locating pins too. Have seen small blocks used for the same purpose, just screwed to the underside of the top to locates it on 4 sides but I much prefer the dowel option. The blocks can damage the inside edge of the rails as the top drops in. Dowel pins = :2tsup::2tsup:.

Cheers
Pops

Juffy
21st December 2008, 08:52 PM
Love your work Wongo, and thanks for the detail on your buttons. :U:2tsup:

jackliveshere
21st December 2008, 09:27 PM
Looking great Wongo! Can't wait to see the finished product and go :o haha

Cheers,

WILL

AlexS
22nd December 2008, 07:50 PM
Looking great Mr Wong. Well done.

Marginata
22nd December 2008, 11:52 PM
Pro buttons! If they are going on, have you got much more work to do?

Panther
23rd December 2008, 07:38 AM
Nice work, the buttons are a great idea, I think I might start making mine today. Now where is that tape measure? Over there next to the fridge. Too early for a beer?

Wongo
23rd December 2008, 08:57 AM
Pro buttons! If they are going on, have you got much more work to do?


Not much. I only have anothe 2-3 coats of wipe on poly to do.

Terry B
23rd December 2008, 02:55 PM
:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Tex B
23rd December 2008, 05:33 PM
Really beautiful Wongo.

Another outstanding job :2tsup::2tsup:

Tex

Wongo
23rd December 2008, 10:37 PM
Thanks TexB

2 more coats, only 2 more coats.:U

jackliveshere
23rd December 2008, 10:58 PM
That's some sexy looking table Wongo my man! Even without the two additional coats!! haha

Cheers,

WILL

Pops
24th December 2008, 12:16 AM
Hi Wongo,

What Will said. The grain came up beautifully. Great boards. :2tsup:

Cheers
Pops

Peter36
24th December 2008, 08:34 AM
Hi Wongo
The top has come up a treat and has some nice grain . Well done :2tsup::2tsup:
Peter

Poppa
25th December 2008, 05:26 PM
That's just beautiful Wongo. Really nice timber and a very professional job.

artme
25th December 2008, 07:05 PM
Most impressive Wongo. Nice simple, clean design allows the timber to speak for itself. :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

AlexS
26th December 2008, 09:23 AM
To really get a nice polish after the last coat, use a catskin buffer.:D

hitch
26th December 2008, 03:26 PM
To really get a nice polish after the last coat, use a catskin buffer.:D

Now Alex, not so much of the "catskin buffer" stuff - I'll tell JR.

92354

We're watching you.:D

Ian

Peter36
26th December 2008, 09:33 PM
To really get a nice polish after the last coat, use a catskin buffer.:D

And for a distressed look, just make sure the cat is well and truly stressed out.:D

Harry72
28th December 2008, 12:12 AM
Nice coffee table Wongy:q:2tsup:

Tankstand
28th December 2008, 12:17 PM
Beautiful table Scott.

Did the boards plane up nice, did you need to do any grain filling?

Wongo
28th December 2008, 12:24 PM
Beautiful table Scott.

Did the boards plane up nice, did you need to do any grain filling?


Thanks, yes and no. :D

wheelinround
28th December 2008, 12:59 PM
Scott looks great

I think I would have made the top removable for transporting reasons its going to be heavy and difficult due to its size. :rolleyes: Just thinking out loud.

Ray

AlexS
28th December 2008, 04:16 PM
He's used buttons, so it is removable.

Wongo
28th December 2008, 04:55 PM
Had to move the table to the house to make some room in the workshop. Let me tell you the bastard is heavy. It took 3 of us to carry the top.

Burnsy
29th December 2008, 12:47 AM
Beautiful table Scott, Jarrah as come up a treat, did you fill the grain at all before using the wipe on and what grit did you sand to? Wipe on straight over the sanded timber or sealer first?

Pat
29th December 2008, 07:31 AM
Had to move the table to the house to make some room in the workshop. Let me tell you the bastard is heavy. It took 3 of us to carry the top.


Wot, you and your to little girls. I bet they were the ones carring the weight. :q

Wongo
29th December 2008, 12:14 PM
Beautiful table Scott, Jarrah as come up a treat, did you fill the grain at all before using the wipe on and what grit did you sand to? Wipe on straight over the sanded timber or sealer first?

I didn't fill the grain. They are too beautiful to be wasted.

This is what I did,
1. Scraped the top
2. 120 grit with a ROS
3. 180 grit with a ROS
4. 400 grit by hand (with love)
5. 50% turps + 50% poly to seal the grain
6. Waited 4 days
7. 800 grit by hand
8. A coat of wipe-on poly
9. 1200 grit but very gently
10. repeat 8,9 for seven times.

:D

Peter36
29th December 2008, 12:26 PM
Iv'e been looking for the pics of the finished table as the comments seem to infer that there are some.:?

Wongo
29th December 2008, 07:10 PM
Not yet because I think the owner of the table should see it first.:D

artme
29th December 2008, 08:39 PM
I didn't fill the grain. They are too beautiful to be wasted.

This is what I did,
1. Scraped the top
2. 120 grit with a ROS
3. 180 grit with a ROS
4. 400 grit by hand (with love)
5. 50% turps + 50% poly to seal the grain
6. Waited 4 days
7. 800 grit by hand
8. A coat of wipe-on poly
9. 1200 grit but very gently
10. repeat 8,9 for seven times.

:D
Looks like you are in need of another form of arm bending.:D:D

brian radalj
13th January 2009, 10:36 PM
Wongo,
Did you use the wipe on poly and mix it with the turps to seal it ?
If not what did you use.

Wongo
14th January 2009, 01:08 PM
Wongo,
Did you use the wipe on poly and mix it with the turps to seal it ?
If not what did you use.

No, it was Estapol satin poly.

Terry B
8th February 2009, 10:14 AM
Dear All
Scott with some of his family took the long drive up the state to deliver my table yesterday. It is very impressive with wonderful workmanship. He seemed pretty sad to see it go.
We had a pleasant dinner and then moved the old table out and put the new one in.
Here is the finished item.
The chairs are the old ones and don't really match but they will be changed in the fullness of time.
:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Pat
8th February 2009, 12:26 PM
Terry, why didn't you make the table?

Looks good, are you going to get Wongo to make the chairs as well?

Terry B
8th February 2009, 01:41 PM
Terry, why didn't you make the table?

Looks good, are you going to get Wongo to make the chairs as well?
I'm afraid that such a big thing is well above my woody ability plus I don't really have the machinery.
No to the chairs. When I am financial enough I'll look into replacing the chairs. Not sure how or what type yet.

Wongo
8th February 2009, 04:27 PM
Finally home.

Terry, thank you and Marie for a great evening and a lovely meal. We had a great night.:)

Alastair
9th February 2009, 12:38 PM
Looks Great Scott

blockhed
9th February 2009, 11:26 PM
very nice job indeed!
the chairs seemed to look good around the beautiful table.
stripped stained and polished to suit the jarrah, they'd come up trumps.
regards
the block
:2tsup:

artme
12th February 2009, 01:01 PM
:o:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup: