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ydna001
18th December 2008, 11:19 PM
Gday,
This is my 3rd segmented bowl, it is 290mm*180mm and is sheoak, spotted gum, london plane, jarrah and poplar. And I reckon its pretty good.
ydna001.

91737

prozac
18th December 2008, 11:26 PM
Gday,
This is my 3rd segmented bowl, it is 290mm*180mm and is sheoak, spotted gum, london plane, jarrah and poplar. And I reckon its pretty good.
ydna001.

91737

And I reckon you might be right ydna001. Most attractive and interesting detail. Well done.

ydna001
18th December 2008, 11:48 PM
Thankyou prozac, I hope to learn as much as possible from others here.

Gil Jones
19th December 2008, 04:44 AM
Well shaped piece. Lots of interesting colors, and what look like clean joints.

Rum Pig
19th December 2008, 08:32 AM
Looks like you have done a fantastic job:2tsup::2tsup:

wheelinround
19th December 2008, 09:34 AM
Looks fantastic how was it for turning with the different timbers.

Sawdust Maker
19th December 2008, 09:35 AM
very nice work :2tsup:
when I read the description I thought it might have had too many timber species, but looks good, top marks

hughie
19th December 2008, 10:26 AM
well done! very fine joints - impressive :2tsup:

munruben
19th December 2008, 12:21 PM
Love it. excellent work.

ydna001
19th December 2008, 12:29 PM
Thanks for all your accolades, Turning the different timbers was uneventful. I guess the most important thing to remember is that the grain is running the same way where possible on all the different species and to be sure that your rings and segments are flat prior to glueing.
For a press to glue the rings together I used a car jack against a piece of 100mm*100mm timber wedged under a steel beam on my pergola. It worked well, next time I will take some pics of each stage and maybe someone can offer me another way. It certainly is an exercise in paitence and precision. It also is a good way to use up all those scrap bits of timber you just hate throwing out!!!
Regards to all.
ydna001..

Ed Reiss
19th December 2008, 01:45 PM
Gday,
This is my 3rd segmented bowl, it is 290mm*180mm and is sheoak, spotted gum, london plane, jarrah and poplar. And I reckon its pretty good.
ydna001.

91737

You reckon right, Pilgrim!:2tsup:

Texian
19th December 2008, 04:15 PM
It is indeed "pretty good". You did not request comments and critiques.

Hardenfast
19th December 2008, 06:27 PM
Very nice shape and nicely contrasted timbers. Segmenting is great fun, isn't it?

Did you have any trouble shaping the piece when fully assembled? How did you chuck it? Also, where did you get hold of the London plane?

Wayne

dai sensei
19th December 2008, 07:11 PM
Very nice indeed with beautiful clean sharp joints :2tsup:

Ad de Crom
19th December 2008, 07:23 PM
Very simply, I love it.
Always nice for me to look to segmented work.
Ad :2tsup:

ydna001
30th December 2008, 11:33 AM
Did not have to much trouble shaping, I did the bowl in 2 halves, 1st half turned the inside as I went careful to leave 2-3mm over so i could do a final trim when 2nd half was joined. Next time I will turn the whole unit in 1 go as exact centering of rings and perp joints is paramount for the staggered joint layout. The bowl is very solid as I ensured segments were cut square and rings were flat and every glued joint was rubbed.
I got the London Plane at a sawmill that was closing down, it along with other native species were all about to put to the match. Sadly tonnes of sheoak, lemon scented and camphor laurel were all pushed up into a heap and went up in smoke.
I wish they would consider contacting woodworking clubs before destroying this beautiful timber.
Please feel free to give any critique, as I am but still a novice.
Ydna001.

Texian
30th December 2008, 12:18 PM
There does appear to be a considerable misalignment between the 4th and 5th rings from the top. Happens to the best of us (not that I am one of the best). Sometimes a momentary loss of focus is all it takes.

That said, you have done an excellent piece of work and already have a firm grasp of what is required to make good, tight joints.

I build most segmented pieces on the lathe, using a longworth chuck in the tailstock to center each successive ring and apply a bit of clamping pressure. Makes it easy to center each ring, get good alignment, and avoid the ring sliding as you apply clamping pressure.

joe greiner
30th December 2008, 10:47 PM
I'd slightly disagree with the notion of "misalignment." The almost random pattern of the narrow bits makes it look less "mechanical." That said, more precise alignment would also be handsome. Richard's (Texian) tip about using the Longworth chuck for assembly has been entered in my files. Thanks, Richard. How does your Longworth mount on the tailstock? Google found you, but a note here would help.

However assembled, it's a nice shape, and well executed, ydna001.:2tsup:

Joe

Texian
31st December 2008, 04:07 AM
Joe,

You could send a PM via this forum.

I have a tailstock adapter, 1-1/4-8 to MT2. It's a threaded aluminum sleeve, pressed onto a steel MT2 arbor. Relatively inexpensive, and not for use on the spindle (for turning), just for alignment using the tailstock. Sometimes I will turn a piece in a chuck or in a jam chuck (in the scroll chuck), reverse that chuck onto the adapter in the tailstock and use it to align with the workpiece, which is now in a second chuck on the spindle. Hope that made sense.

brianmary
31st December 2008, 07:55 AM
Joe
i centre my rings on a perspex plate with cicles every 25 mm apart with a 12mm threaded rod in the middle as you fit more rings you lift the plate up for the next ring
i also use a coles jaw chuck and a longwoth chuck which i built for sement turning.
i have a live mt2 with a 10 tpi thread which you can fit a faceplate or another chuck in your tail stock jim carrol sells them or you can get them from vermac engineering
happy turning brian
brian mary:U

joe greiner
1st January 2009, 12:20 AM
Well, I figured there'd be another chuck in the game somehow. My large Longworth mounts on a scroll chuck, and the smaller ones mount on the spindle. Cole jaws or faceplates could also be added.

The adapters you describe didn't pop up at Craft Supplies USA or Grizzly (more convenient than Jim Carroll for the upover), but I reckon I could just cobble something from a piece of all-thread to suit my spindle (1x8), as long as it doesn't have to spin. Maybe a long 3/8-16 bolt through the tailstock could marry everything. Segmented turning hasn't worked its way to the top of my bucket list, but it's nice to have a rough idea of concepts in advance. Thanks, mates.

Joe

Texian
1st January 2009, 04:02 AM
Joe,
Go to bestwoodtools.com

Scroll down to tailstock chuck adapters. About $27.

joe greiner
1st January 2009, 11:20 PM
Thanks, Richard (Texian).

Joe