Alaskan Milling Problem

[derekh]

Guys

I'm at a loss here regarding issues on why my Alaskan Small Log Mill won't cut a 250mm dia Tallowwood properly. I have sharpened the saw correctly, it was cutting to one side but I redid the chain and it now crosscuts straight. I'm using my standard 30deg Stihl chain on a Stihl 441 magnum with 20" bar.

Basically, I start the cut and get about a bar width in and it won't willingly go any further. I can work the saw a bit and make some progress but it leaves terrible washboarding marks.

Any advice appreciated because I've got a few logs to do over xmas.

Derek

[Calm]

Place/clamp a peice of wood/steel to the bar (underside) and measure the distance front & back to the mill.

i.e. is the bar setup parrallell to the frame of the mill - is the saw cutting behind the bar as well as in front?

Hope you understand what i mean.

Cheers

[Sigidi]

BOB? where's Bob? Anyone seen Bob?

[BobL]

Guys

I'm at a loss here regarding issues on why my Alaskan Small Log Mill won't cut a 250mm dia Tallowwood properly. I have sharpened the saw correctly, it was cutting to one side but I redid the chain and it now crosscuts straight. I'm using my standard 30deg Stihl chain on a Stihl 441 magnum with 20" bar.

Basically, I start the cut and get about a bar width in and it won't willingly go any further. I can work the saw a bit and make some progress but it leaves terrible washboarding marks.

Any advice appreciated because I've got a few logs to do over xmas.

Derek

It could be any one of these:
1) What top plate cutter are you using. If you are leaving washboard marks it sounds like you still have about 30º top plate angle. Refile to get these back to 10º will help. 30º places a lot of sideways pressure on the chain and bar and if the bar has a problem (next two points) a 30º angle will only make things worse.

2) Bar rails are uneven. The bar should be able to stand on its rails without falling over. They can be a little out for cross cutting but less so for slabbing. Remedy - dress the bar.

3) Bar groove is too worn or too spread. This means the chain flops down when the CS bar is laying over on its side and even though it cross cuts OK it will jam the mill. There is a gizmo for fixing this if it is not too spread but I would recommend a new bar at this point.

I would reckon on 3) followed by 2) and 1) - if you have a bit of each of these the problem will be magnified.

If you can afford it I would go strait for a new bar chain and sprocket.

You'll have to work it out on your own from here on as I'm away for 3 days - cheers
Bob

[derekh]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I had actually dressed (draw filed) the bar because the rails were uneven. I managed to cut a slab using my 10deg chain later in the morning but it was still quite an effort. I'll add a new 25" bar and Carlton chain to my Santa wish list. Ho, ho, ho ....

Interestingly, after I cut through I heard this big 'crack' sound and the slab had split 300mm as it released itself from the log. Now, after I come home, it has split a further 1000mm.

[weisyboy]

tallowwood is a funny timber to mill.

it is oily so it slices easy but the sawdust builds up between the bar and log. a log with a lot of tension like you describe where it springs open after milling is a lot harder to cut for whatever reason.

have you got a wedge to drive into the cut to open it up a bit? if so do that when it starts to bog.

tallowwood has a stringy bark so it holds the sand/dirt debark it before milling.
buy or make a skip tooth chain it will make a diferance in tallow wood.

[derekh]

Carl (and others),

Thanks for the advice. 30 mins with a marker pen and grinder and I created myself a 10 deg skip chain. Wow, what a different experience !

I sat and watched as it cracked open and progress, oh well not a 100% improvement but happy anyway. I'd better update that Santa list tonight.

thanks
Derek