PDA

View Full Version : Biscuit tray??



powderpost
8th January 2009, 09:49 PM
Been hankering to get back to some laminating. This is the first one of the current season :o :U. The platter is 325mm diameter and 30mm overall in height. Starting from the outer rim there is black walnut, yellow walnut (the thin ring), Queensland maple, red cedar, silver ash, black walnut, silver ash, red cedar, Queensland maple. The bulls eye is yellow walnut with a black walnut centre.

Finished with sanding sealer and three coats of lacquer, rubbed back with #800 wet and dry, then buffed up with EEE. The end product of about 40 hours.

Took a series of photos so that I will remember how I did it. As an after thought they could make a wip I suppose.
Jim

tea lady
8th January 2009, 09:57 PM
:oo: Amazing.:cool: They'de have to be pretty specky biscuits.:D

orificiam
8th January 2009, 10:21 PM
Hi Jim I do admire you patience and comitment to your hobby.It is a hobby? beautiful.
cheers Tony.:2tsup:

powderpost
8th January 2009, 10:34 PM
Yes Tony, it is a hobby although there are some around here that reckon it is a disease... :U, but I still enjoy it.
Jim

masoth
9th January 2009, 12:21 AM
Amazing work. Have you posted other work pictures? I'll go in search if you have.

soth

Ed Reiss
9th January 2009, 02:40 AM
Nice:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup: ....looks like a kaleidoscope!

Sawdust Maker
9th January 2009, 08:06 AM
Simply stunning :yourock2:

lubbing5cherubs
9th January 2009, 08:35 AM
simple gorgeous as usual. Very nice indeed. I know i love to see you WIP
bye
Toni

Rum Pig
9th January 2009, 08:58 AM
I agree with Toni were are the WIP
I think that is stunning I mean :thumbup:

powderpost
9th January 2009, 09:19 AM
Yep Soth, there are a few other examples on the board.
Jim

Texian
9th January 2009, 01:15 PM
Very skillful work Jim. Would like to see that one in person.

munruben
9th January 2009, 01:25 PM
Nice work. :2tsup:

wheelinround
9th January 2009, 01:25 PM
Jim your work is improving :rolleyes: stop it your making me look bad :D and thats not hard to do

:2tsup::2tsup:

dai sensei
9th January 2009, 08:46 PM
Amazing Jim :2tsup:

As you keep looking at the pattern it starts to move into 3D, then moves around and makes me dizzy. Not sure how you went whilst turning :stars::U

Harry72
9th January 2009, 08:51 PM
Nice work Jim, I must do some segmented work soon!

Chipman
9th January 2009, 09:00 PM
Nice design and so well executed:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Cheers,
Chipman

powderpost
9th January 2009, 09:35 PM
The starting point is to glue up a "plank" with selected colours. THis one was 1500mm long(Photo 1)
Photo 2
The plank is then cut at 60 degrees, into slices, in this case 25mm. Note the sled used.
Photo 3
Every second piece is turned over end for end and glued.
Photo 4
The new plank is cut again, this time at 45 degrees and every second piece is turned over and glued to form the pattern seen in the top left hand corner of photo 5.
Photo 5
The new pattern (Photo 9) is cut at 15 degrees to form 12 wedges that make up the disc.
Photo 6 and 7
The disc is mounted in a Longworth chuck, and the back cleaned up ready to have the foot glued on. The foot is a laminated disc glued to a waste block, and mounted on a face plate.
Photo 8
The blank is removed from the longworth chuck and screwed onto the lathe to have the top turned.

After sanding down to 400# three coats of sanding sealer was rubbed onto the surfaces and rubbed down between coats with 400# wet and dry paper. Fairly important to remove the dags from the saw, before gluing.

Then three sprayed coats of lacquer applied and rubbed back with 600# wet and dry paper. The final coat was sanded back with 800# wet and dry paper, 0000 steel wool and buffed with EEE paste.

That didn't take long did it?

Feel free to fire questions.
Jim

artme
9th January 2009, 09:47 PM
:o:o:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:Almost as good as a Tim Tam!!!!

powderpost
9th January 2009, 09:55 PM
But you can suck coffee through a tim tam........... or so I am told. :U
Jim

joe greiner
10th January 2009, 12:11 AM
Inspirational. Thanks for posting, Jim.:2tsup:

Cheers,
Joe

Skew ChiDAMN!!
10th January 2009, 12:32 AM
I've just one question, Jim.

In pic #9 there are some "bad" joints where the pattern doesn't match. The sort of thing I tend to get for every joint. :rolleyes:`

I imagine that when you glue up these strips you make a few more repeats of the pattern than are actually used in the final product, so you can "skip over" the bad ones?

joe greiner
10th January 2009, 01:05 AM
I reckon that would be the smarter way to do it, Skew. Selective assembly into wedges would also exploit the "drift" of the darker wood in the parent timber, so as to place it in different parts of the circle, vs all on one side or the other. Lightly sanded sub-assemblies at 90 and 180 degrees would also distribute the "errors" more evenly, and hence make them smaller.

The central button provides "fault tolerance" to the design, where the points cannot possibly meet (or almost impossible to meet), and add a "focusing" feature - for want of a better term.

Joe

Ed Reiss
10th January 2009, 01:18 AM
What a great looking shop Powderpost...not a clean spot anywhere:2tsup:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
10th January 2009, 01:42 AM
I reckon that would be the smarter way to do it, Skew. Selective assembly into wedges would also exploit the "drift" of the darker wood in the parent timber, so as to place it in different parts of the circle, vs all on one side or the other. Lightly sanded sub-assemblies at 90 and 180 degrees would also distribute the "errors" more evenly, and hence make them smaller.

I'd thought 'twas something like that... makes all the difference between a quality item and one of my... "tight-????" pieces. :-


The central button provides "fault tolerance" to the design, where the points cannot possibly meet (or almost impossible to meet), and add a "focusing" feature - for want of a better term.

Aye, that's another thing I was going to ask about, but later. I was sorta wondering whether Jim glued the wedges together first and then drilled out the centre to take a round insert, or whether he docked the wedge tips and glued it up all in one. The former makes more sense to me, but that doesn't mean much...


OH! I just realised that I hadn't said: "nice tray, Jim!" :-

wheelinround
10th January 2009, 09:02 AM
Jim thanks for a great WIP Noted the Jig's and the thin kerf blade.

Ray

peterpiper
10th January 2009, 05:02 PM
Real nice Jim, how do you work out what length of plank to make up?
pete

powderpost
11th January 2009, 12:43 PM
Thank you every one for the complimentary remarks. Now for some answers.
Joe, you are on the right track. there are two "problems" here. One is, I think I need new glasses to pick up the small errors. :; Two, when gluing up, the joints tend to slip a bit, and as you can imagine, looking at the pattern closely, you can tend to get a bit "cross eyed".

Skew, when I glue up the "plank", I make sure I have a considerable amount extra. After the wedges are cut, I can then be a bit picky as to which one I use. Actually the very centre did meet accurately, but as this part is all VERY short end grain, the major problem was tiny pieces kept breaking. I did on a previous job, rub glue into the wood there, but there was a "shadow" in the finished job, caused by the glue. In this case I chose to mirror the outer ring, for the centre feature.

Ed, I actually cleaned up a bit before I took the photos. :B

Peter, working out the minimum length needed is quite a mathematical exercise. You work out the circumference, add a factor for saw cuts then use trigonometry because when the original plank is cut the pieces are re-arranged so the hypotenuse or long side of a right angle triangle is used, not the base of the triangle. Imagine the bits cut off, as a portion of a right angle triangle. Well you did ask... :D.

In this type of work, there is no place to camouflage errors. Accuracy is absolutely essential.

Thanks again for the interest.
Jim

peterpiper
11th January 2009, 06:28 PM
Peter, working out the minimum length needed is quite a mathematical exercise. You work out the circumference, add a factor for saw cuts then use trigonometry because when the original plank is cut the pieces are re-arranged so the hypotenuse or long side of a right angle triangle is used, not the base of the triangle. Imagine the bits cut off, as a portion of a right angle triangle. Well you did ask... :D.

Thanks Jim, er, yes, I did ask,serves me right!!! :?

I think my way would be to count the sides, multiply by the width of each
ie 12 x 100mm = 1200mm, add a bit for saw cuts 300mm = 1500mm add a bit for mistakes 500mm = 2000mm, then just in case of accidents, make another just a bit longer and hope for the best

The jig looks a work of art as well, but I'm not going to ask about that:no:
very nice work indeed,
pete

lubbing5cherubs
13th January 2009, 11:09 PM
Jim Thank you so much that is nice I think I should be able to master that one Well I hope it flat not like my last go with a bowl. It flopped. I am going to give it a go on the weekend Thanks Toni