Ambonia celtic knot and a jig to cut it

[edblysard]

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/knot006.jpg
Celtic knot in maple with dyed maple outline, ambonia body.
We were discussing how to do knots on another forum, and I came up with a jig built from scraps and junk box leftovers...
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/knot010.jpg
The idea was to securely hold the blank and the laminate when cutting either one so your hands need never go near the blade...the steel spring loaded rod holds the laminate so you dont have to try, and prevents the saw from throwing it all over the place...
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/knot011.jpg
copy cats welcome.

[Rum Pig]

First nice looking knot:2tsup:

I'm sorry but I may be still half asleep but I do not get the steel spring loaded rod. I am sorry if this is a stupid question:?

[edblysard]

Bottom photo above post...note the steel rod holding the laminate strip against the fence...the hole the rod is in has a spring inside, behind the rod is about 2 to 21/2 " long...moving the side clamp towards the fence applies spring pressure against the rod, which holds the strip in place after the blade cuts through...without a way to hold the small laminate insert hard against the fence, the saw blade will fling it up and it usualy ends up somewhere where you cant find it...plus it tears up the edge of the insert...

No question is stupid...not asking when you dont see or understand something is...
I will post a photo in a minute that might explain better...
Ok, these might explain better...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/rod001.jpg
This photo shows the clamp that holds the pen blank against the fence...note the hole drilled in the end..
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/rod003.jpg
This photo shows the rod inserted in the hold...there is a 1" long spring inside the hole that pushed against the back or the rod...you could use a 1/4" wood dowel rod..I used steel because I was out of dowel...
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/rod004.jpg
This photo shows the rod holding the laminate strip that the inserts are cut from...you could simply use the same clamp that holds the blank against the fence to hold the strip, but then the top red handled hold down clamp would be in the path of the blade, as would the clamp itself...so I use the rod to hold the laminate strip snug against the fence when I cut the inserts....http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/knot011.jpg
there is enough tension from the spring behind the rod to keep the blade from throwing the insert once it is cut...

[Rum Pig]

I see said the blind man:D

I could not make out the piece of laminate at the end of the rod but now that you say that I can see. Good idea certainly will save the finger tips:U

I might just have ti pinch that idea:D

[artme]

:o:oBest CK pen i"ve ever seen!!! Beautifully executed!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[ss_11000]

awesome :2tsup:

[PenTurner]

Apart from that beautiful pen, thanks for that idea, I have printed it out and one day one of my more mechanically mind and gifted pen turners might help me to make one, Amos:):2tsup:

[Sawdust Maker]

Another nice celtic knot :2tsup:
great idea on the jig as well

[Todd Glover]

Beautifully executed CK and the jig is awesome as well!!

[munruben]

Lovely work. and great jig. :2tsup::2tsup:

[Minotbob]

I was wondering how it would work if you didn't saw all the way through the blank. Just raise the blade enough to make a kerf cut through the blank. Say leave about 2-3 mm material. That might make it easier to glue up the accent material. That 2-3 mm of material not cut will easily turn-off.

[Sawdust Maker]

bob

on a wip on one of the other forums that is how they say to do it
I've done it that way and it works, easy to line up etc.

PS where's my manners
welcome to the forum

[Minotbob]

Thanks for the welcome. I've been lurking for a while. Great forum

[edblysard]

Bob,
Welcome is in order..
And I have done the almost through cut knots....this way simply works best for me, allows adjustment ..
Both ways create the same end result, so try them both and see which works best for you.

[jimmyz]

I made the jig described in the thread. I prepared a 3/4" blank of Kingwood for the body and cut some strips of holly about 1/16" thick (the pen is going to be a Wall Street II). After setting the stop, I made the first cut and glued in the first slice. I rotated the jig 90 degrees and made the second cut. Looked good after gluing. Repeated the process for the last two cuts, and the strips do not "line up". I'm going to try to turn it anyway to see how it turns out, but I don't think I'm going to like it. My questions are: Do I need to make the strips the same thickness as my table saw blade or does that matter if I always cut with the same end of the blank up against the stop? Does it matter, other than grain orientation, whether I make the slices from a long thin piece of veneer material or make them by cutting 45 degree slices from the veneer material? Can I make a celtic knot for this Wall Street pen or is the diameter of the pen incompatible with a "complete" celtic knot? I'm new to the site but have been doing woodworking for 40 years. Pens are a new adventure, and I'm trying to "step up" my pens by adding some celtic knots, scallops, and maybe other designs/materials. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.