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ElizaLeahy
7th February 2009, 02:23 PM
1. deep straight sides are hard to cut. Tool rest too far away in the "corners". Possibly fixed with an "S" shaped rest?

2. DON'T put shellawax on the bowl while the lathe is still and then start it for two reasons...
a. it partly dries and streaks
b. when the lathe starts spinning any excess spins off into your face! :o

3. Blanks that are cheap and have holes in the might be cheap BECAUSE they have holes in them.

4. Don't turn the sides thin to start with, because if you get an accidental dig in - well, you have nowhere to go.

But still, I love the pretty wood :)

weisyboy
7th February 2009, 02:29 PM
nice lump of red cedar you have there. any pics of the inside?

Gil Jones
7th February 2009, 02:56 PM
Eliza,
Do your best not to purchase any wood (for the near future), as there is a whole bunch of free wood out there just waiting for you to pick it up. A tree trimming/removal company, and a windstorm are your friends, as are nearby friends and neighbors that are trimming or cutting a tree down. Just let it be known that you would like this scrap wood, and it somehow finds its way to you (or you may need to go get it). Try to acquire fresh cut (green) wood of ANY species; you will find it much easier to turn than dry wood. Practice on the free stuff until you are ready to buy that special chunk of wood for an unusual project, and by then you will have gained enough experience that you will be able to pick the best piece of bought wood for your project.
The cracks in your bowls are just from rapid drying of the wood (before or after you got it), where the inside and outside of the wood dried at different rates, and it cracked. Cracking can happen in log form, or while you are turning. While turning, you can put a bit of water on the outer surface to help control the differential, and avoid the cracks.
You can even use those cracks to practice on, and just fill them in with ground coffee, or some other material. Then add a few drops of thin CA glue to set it in place. Or mix it with clear epoxy, fill the crack, and let it cure (takes a bit longer than CA). Then sand it smooth.
Most important part is to have fun learning, and do it in a safe manner.:)

weisyboy
7th February 2009, 03:52 PM
red cedar will "sun crack" if not felled as soon as it dyes these cracks are typical fo this.

funkychicken
7th February 2009, 04:22 PM
1. deep straight sides are hard to cut. Tool rest too far away in the "corners". Possibly fixed with an "S" shaped rest?


A better design is the answer

weisyboy
7th February 2009, 07:06 PM
there is nothing rong with the desight if that is the look you are after.

you can stick the tool rest into the bowl as far as it will go to get in closer to the corner. i dont really like teh s shaped rest.

ElizaLeahy
7th February 2009, 07:35 PM
A better design is the answer

Unless you want deep straight sides - which is what I need to practice to do the "cup and plate" design I want to make.

ElizaLeahy
7th February 2009, 07:37 PM
Eliza,
Do your best not to purchase any wood (for the near future), as there is a whole bunch of free wood out there just waiting for you to pick it up.

Gil, I don't have a saw - except a hand saw.

ElizaLeahy
7th February 2009, 07:41 PM
Inside shot - and you can see the tool problem in the "corner".

weisyboy
7th February 2009, 07:45 PM
where you trying to get a sharp corner or a rounded corner?

ElizaLeahy
7th February 2009, 07:58 PM
where you trying to get a sharp corner or a rounded corner?


A sharply rounded one :)

weisyboy
7th February 2009, 08:22 PM
yes.

scraper:2tsup:

robutacion
8th February 2009, 01:26 AM
Gil, I don't have a saw - except a hand saw.

Yeah, well I know... that's why I said a few weeks back that at least a electric chainsaw would save you "trailers" of money!:D I understand that you are not comfortable with the idea of using a chainsaw but, a electric chainsaw is a very easy and quite safe machine to use. Indeed, any machine that has "cuttings parts" is a lot safer if is held by both hands, then any machine that you take the timber into the cutting parts (blades, discs, etc.), such as bandsaws, tablesaws, etc. The main secret of using a chainsaw safely is to make sure the timber is "firmly" held by one of many sorts of timber, log vices. Some of the better chainsaws (sort off), have a safety clutch that stops the chain immediately, after you release the trigger (accelerator/throttle) so the chain is not turning until you are ready, and stops as soon as you finish the cut so, when you put the chain down or on a stool/bench etc., nothing is moving. Also by being electric, they are very quite (little noise, sort off) and do not make any noise or vibrations while not in use or in between cuts. With one of these and a simple vice, you can cut the logs into various lengths, for sealing and put to dry, split/slice those small logs in halves, for marking the blank circles and then cut the half logs, round. Cutting slabs or ripping square timber strips are quite easy to achieve, after a little practice. In relation to the safety equipment require/reccomended to use with an electric chainsaw, apart from a log/timber vice, would be safety glasses or the same full face visor/shield used for turning, some working gloves and some chainsaw chaps if you can afford them. Some people don't really see the need for the chaps or even believe of their effectiveness with electric chainsaws but, I can "strongly" suggest, get a pair...! :;

I've got lots of info and pics of chainsaw use on this forum and on my web site, if necessary, I would be willing to give you some extra support and guidance, if you decide to give it a go!

Here are some examples;

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

ElizaLeahy
8th February 2009, 09:55 AM
Those are a good lot of photos, your log holding thing is interesting!

I don't see it happening. I think I'm going to be one of the people who does have to buy wood. Lots of factors at work here, starting with "I can't afford a chain saw" and ending wtih "I don't want a chain saw"

I'd love a bandsaw, a scroll saw and a circular saw, however, I don't see that happening either. I have a courtyard, not a yard, and no shed. Tiny unit :)

I once read a true life story about someone who was cutting wood with a chainsaw, hit a nail and cut their throat (they lived) and only a short time after that I drove a motorbike through a barbwire fence and cut my throat - and remembered that story (broke my hip, was in the middle of a paddock on a 500 hectare (spelling?) property outside Ispwich and was just lucky that there was someone working there that day building a round yard. He had a chainsaw going, and as it powered down I'd yell - but he didn't hear me! But I had on a red shirt, and eventually he came to see what the red was in the paddock. Took me to hospital in a truck. By then my neck was swollen up to larger then my head and it took them awhile to realise that most of the problem was in my hip, not my neck! I was in hospital from the 6th Jan until after easter. Afterwards they took me back and made me fix the fence

Ahhh, happy memories! LOL

;)

weisyboy
8th February 2009, 09:58 PM
chainsaws can be dangerous if not used properly.

but are actualy quite safe once you understand them.

i understand you not wanting one thow some people should just not own them.

ss_11000
9th February 2009, 12:27 AM
1. deep straight sides are hard to cut. Tool rest too far away in the "corners". Possibly fixed with an "S" shaped rest?

2. DON'T put shellawax on the bowl while the lathe is still and then start it for two reasons...
a. it partly dries and streaks
b. when the lathe starts spinning any excess spins off into your face! :o

3. Blanks that are cheap and have holes in the might be cheap BECAUSE they have holes in them.

4. Don't turn the sides thin to start with, because if you get an accidental dig in - well, you have nowhere to go.

But still, I love the pretty wood :)
1. did you try angling the tool rest so that some of it went inside of the already hollowed out bowl:?

2. you should apply the shellawax while the lathe is off ensuring you get an even coverage over the area. There really shouldnt be too much excess and if it dries out, then you are either doing it too slow or not using enough (although a little bit goes a long way).
also, it might be better to use shellawax cream on bigger items like that.

3. lol:D

cheers:2tsup:

ElizaLeahy
9th February 2009, 01:32 PM
1. did you try angling the tool rest so that some of it went inside of the already hollowed out bowl:?

cheers:2tsup:


Yes, which helped with the base. It was the corner that gave me trouble. Probably another practice thing :)

And it's too hot to practice just now!

Little Festo
9th February 2009, 04:54 PM
Those are a good lot of photos, your log holding thing is interesting!

I don't see it happening. I think I'm going to be one of the people who does have to buy wood. Lots of factors at work here, starting with "I can't afford a chain saw" and ending wtih "I don't want a chain saw"

;)

Eliza,

Join a wood working club, lots of guys with chain saws and band saws there and most would be happy to help out with the wood gathering and cutting bowl blanks etc.

Peter

robutacion
9th February 2009, 11:15 PM
Hi Eliza,

I understand and mostly respect your decision, after all, we are all different!

I also believe, and I don't know exactly why, chainsaws are more a "bloke's thing". This has been "confirmed" by many sources, and I admit, there aren't many machines that I haven't operated, but chainsaws are still my preferred. :B

Space limitations are a common problem for wood-turners, even if their shed is a "kilometer long"...!:oo::D , owning chainsaws are responsible for "accumulation of larger than normal wood piles"!:;

So that you know, under the bed space, is one of the best secure and stable locations for timber drying...!:o

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

ElizaLeahy
10th February 2009, 08:29 AM
It may be a strength thing. Us delicate female types just aren't strong enough to hold the big nasty old chainsaw!

Ed Reiss
10th February 2009, 01:17 PM
It may be a strength thing. Us delicate female types just aren't strong enough to hold the big nasty old chainsaw!

...really???

check it out

YouTube - Chainsaw Mama Blues -- women with chainsaws

ElizaLeahy
10th February 2009, 01:21 PM
Maybe 20 years ago, when I was milking cows and throwing around bales of hay. I'm the wrong shape now!!!

:no:

:D

robutacion
10th February 2009, 03:32 PM
...really???

check it out

YouTube - Chainsaw Mama Blues -- women with chainsaws (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajKyf0IeROs)

Very appropriate "clip" indeed Ed, thanks.

Modern machines are a lot lighter to handle than those old "Megasawarsses" from the jurassic era :D. A small petrol chainsaw is under 5 kilos, and an electric one can be as light as 3kg, so muscle mass and strength are not the main issue here. Nevertheless, is perfectly acceptable that some people do "fear" these machines, and are totally uncomfortable with the issue, and this is OK.

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO