Leigh super 12 jig

[jimmcelwaine]

i have searched the internet and been out to the local carbatec looking at leigh dovetail jigs but im still not convinced that this will be the best.
i believe that it is the dovetail jig that can do the most kinds of dovetails but im afraid it will take me a long time to figure out how it works (time i dont really have) and be very fiddle.
anyone with this model or similar models i would be most happy if you could tell me anything you know about this jig that will help me with my purchase.

toby.

[Ellemcbeast]

I would strongly recommend the Leigh Dovetail jig. It has a great instruction manual and an excellent instructional DVD. Also before you buy you can review their instructional videos on their website to get comfortable with the various dovetail methods.
It looks tricky to learn but is not too bad. If you buy another dovetail jig, you will quickly become frustrated with the lack of flexibility and will eventually buy a Leigh jig.
Go for it!

[damian]

If you have a router table I can not recommend the incra highly enough. I am sure there are things a leigh can do an incra can't, and vise versa, but I find the incra method quite obvious. Provided the router and table are good it's virtually idiot proof.

There are demo videos at incra.com

2c.

[jimmcelwaine]

thank you for your great advice that helps me alot as i have not yet till then had feedback from a leigh owner


i dont have a router table as i have no need for it other then to rabbet but i just do that hold the router so i dont think the incra is for me sorry.

[damian]

No need :) it's just another option. As long as your having fun...

[Tex B]

I've had the Leigh for a couple of years. It's the bees knees:2tsup:

The book is very clear and easy to understand. Lots of pics, and it is spiral bound to lay flat on the bench while you're following along. Each joint you want to make is explained in its own chapter. The last section discusses what to do if it doesn't fit exactly.

So even if the jig is used infrequently (as mine is), you don't have to remember everything, just follow along.

Undoubtedly the best owners manual I've ever had, and makes what looks complex into a fairly easy process.

You won't regret the purchase, and the flexibility is fantastic.

Tex

[jimmcelwaine]

thank you very much i was hoping the manual will be easy to follow.

and the chapter on each style of joint sounds like what i need
i will definitely be buying this after you advice

toby.

[mat]

You can download the manual from the leigh website and have a read. That may make you more comfortable with deciding on a purchase.

I have the D1600 and have written out a quick checklist of the relevant adjustments just in case I forget in between sessions on the jig.

[malb]

The Superjig 12 is the most limiting of the current family (SJ 12,18,24,and D4R). While it can do the standard dovetail forms with variable spacing etc, it doesn't go to the decorative forms like Isolock etc because Leigh won't make the templates for the basic 12 model, only the dearer SJ18, 24 and D4R.

Provided that you can live with that constraint, the SJ 12 should be a great unit for you. Be aware that any 'jig' can only be as consistant at the material it is used with. By this I mean that variation in material thickness from peice to peice will affect the setup.

DT jigs are normally set up by trial and error to get everything spot on with offcuts, before going to the actual job materials. Variations muck things up considerably. This happens with virtually any DT jig system due to the 3D nature of the joint elements. The Leighs are one of the more stable jigs available and miles beyond the Asian cheapies. Video, manual etc are all good at explaining the setup and tuning it.

[6916243]

As an Australian Leigh jig user you'll be in a lot of trouble finding a router where the guide bush fits. I recommend find a router first then decide if you want Leigh or not.

[rayintheuk]

As an Australian Leigh jig user you'll be in a lot of trouble finding a router where the guide bush fits. I recommend find a router first then decide if you want Leigh or not.
That's simply not true - both Triton router guidebush plates accept the Variable Guidebush System (VGS) from Leigh Industries, without need for an adaptor - see the final two images on this (http://www.raygirling.co.uk/gbp.htm) page on my site.

Ray.

[Tex B]

I got a couple of adapters when I got my Leigh jig, so one fits my old Ryobi (and should fit my newer Triton) and the other fits the smaller Festool.

I did find it useful to have one router set up with the dovetail bit and one with the straight bit. Saves a bit of time and makes my stuffups easier to fix :wink:

But did not find it a problem to get plates to fit my router(s).

Tex

[jimmcelwaine]

happily yesterday i went down to the local carbetec and purchased the leah super 12 and a base plate

but im not allowed to open it until my birthday in 11 days but thankfully my dad gave me the manual and dvd out of it.
such an easy to read manual as many had said and the dvd is also very good.
cant wait to sat it up and will be posting my first project with it on here sometime soon

cheers
toby.

[malb]

The superjig comes with the eguide which is adjustable and an integral part of setting up for some dovetails. Effectively, the guide shank is slightly oval and can be rotated within its mount to micro adjust the cut width. The mount is equivalent to that for standard Porter cable (1 3/8in from memory). Provided the sub base that you bought will accept these template guides and fit your router, you should be home and hosed, but pay carefull attention when mounting the sub base to enure that it is exactly centered, or you will complicate setting up with the jig.

[jimmcelwaine]

ahh :P to much information.
im pretty sure my router will fit the guide bush
im feeling its going to take me a long while to get the hang of it.
just one question is it critical to use the jig with a variable speed router?

toby.

[mat]

No you wouldn't use a variable speed router as all the bits are relatively small and are run at full speed. If you happen to have a variable speed router then use it at full speed.

[jimmcelwaine]

okay thank you that must of just been the man at carbatec trying to make me buy a festool :P

[jimmcelwaine]

i finally have it :)
started using it properly today i routed all the through dovetails for my
project.
but now i have to cut sliding dovetails and it is quite difficult i find
anyone who has knowledge of this type it would be great if you coiuld give me some tips.

sorry bout the poor quality of pictures.

[Tex B]

I've never used it for sliding dovetails. After reading the instructions, I found it easier to use the router table.

Tex

[jimmcelwaine]

sorry tex i dont get it how do you use it with a router table?

[rayintheuk]

I'm sure that Tex B meant to say "use the router table instead of the jig, not with it." :)

Ray.

[jimmcelwaine]

ohhh alright.

well i would be easier if i had a router tabble wouldnt it.
might make one :2tsup:

[mat]

Jim

Where exactly are you going wrong with the sliding dovetails? Are you following the instructions exactly or perhaps taking a shortcut!

With any routing you should preferably take a number of shallow cuts rather than a deep cut in one run.

[Tex B]

Sorry, Jim, didn't realise you didn't have a router table. And I was perhaps too succinct.

The groove is pretty straightforward, and not usually done on the jig depending on where it is located on the board. Measure the distance on your router between the center of the bit and the edge of the router base. Then clamp a straight edge guide on the workpiece that same distance from the center of your groove. Easier to start with a small striaght bit and take a couple of passes to get to the final depth, then switch to the dovetail bit for the last pass. This is what mat was referring to, as you can't take shallow cuts in the groove with the dovetail :wink:

Now you have your groove.

The tail is really trial and error. Using the black plastic thing that snaps onto the back of the jig doodads (you know what I'm talking about Jim) allows the router to run straight along the end edge of the board. Set the bit to the depth of the groove (following instructions in the book). Then a bit of trial and error on scrap pieces until you get the dovetail that slips beautifully into the groove. Then put your workpiece in, zip down one side, flip the piece, zip down the other, and presto.

Not too difficult, but make sure you have several scrap pieces the exact same thickness as your tail piece to get the settings right.

Hope that helps.

Tex

[Robomanic]

Hi Jim,
I am reading your thread because I have wanted a Leigh jig for years (since I was your age basically) and now our gracious PM K-Rudd is going to buy me one :) Glad to see you are having so much fun with it.

[jimmcelwaine]

Alright Tex you sure know what your doing don't you.

what you told me helped me alot thankyou i went out to the shed today and cut the slot on my project and did trial and error on the well tails if thats what there still called on another piece of the same tassie oak. finally after several tries and much frustration i got them right and started cutting them out on my project wood :) thank you for all your help you sure did make my buying and using of the Leigh much easier i will post pictures of my (well i dont have a name for it lets just call it a storage unit) when it is all glued up and finished.

cheers. Toby.

[Tex B]

Look forward to seeing the pics, Toby. Glad you had fun

Tex

[justinmcf]

hi jim, i have the leigh D4R and leigh FMT. i purchased them from carbatec in brisbane, november 2008.
i have made lots of boxes now with quality dovetail joints, it is a pleasure to use and very easy, just make sure you follow the manual, step by step.

i only made mistakes when i skipped a step in the manual, just take your time, and you will be making beautiful dovetails in no time.

the first boxes i made now hold the jigs, theres no point having a high quality precision dovetail jig and then leaving it in the cardboard box. i also found that these were a good way to get familiar with the jig.
the learning curve is pretty steep at the start, but the manuals are so good, you cant go wrong.

BTW, what router are you using, and what bits are using? did you buy the VRS? i would recommend getting the VRS, which then connects to a shop vac, it keeps all the dust down.

have fun, justin.

[old pete]

Hi Jimcelwaine,

I have owned a 24" imperial Leigh for many years. Its a simply brilliant device for cutting large numbers of almost infinitely variable dovetails in short order. The instruction manual is just absolutely top of the line as is the manual for the finger joints if you buy the appropriate FJ template.

The jig is not fiddly to set up if you follow the process to a logical conclusion. Once set up and working precisely you can save the settings which are specific to each bit diameter for subsequent re-setting.

A word of caution. The Leigh jig is not a silver bullet for making quality joints for the raw beginner. You need to have quite high order router skills as a pre- requisite because the system requires the making of deep cuts with smallish bits for some profiles. You can't do this in a large number of steps taking a little at a time as far as depth goes so you need to have what amounts to router paring skills where you take a little at a time off the waste in the horizontal direction. This requires a fair degree of skill to get the job done in short order without chip out of the visible edges but it's all quite dooable. The other thing is that you need to adopt an absolutely fastidious approach to the accuracy of placing the timber in the jig with approprtriate back up boards etc.

I'll give you a lesson happily before you buy if you live nearby. I did a demo for a Guild a couple of years ago and afterwards two individuals approached me for a lesson who said they had got leigh's still in the boxes but had been so intimidated by the technology and the ultra comprehensive manual that they hadn't put them to use. They both use them now. Go for it. old pete

[BrettC]

Hi,

Was going to post a new thread but I've recently acquired a Superjig and need to know what adaptor to buy to fit to my Ryobi 1400 router - the one below (Model is the ERT241200). Anyone know which adaptor will fit it for the e-bush?
Specs

Key Features:

On/off trigger lock off button for safety
Spindle lock for easy one wrench cutter changes
Straight side fence for perfect straight cutting
6.35 & 12.7mm collet capacity for a variety of different cutters
Dust port can be connect to a dust extraction system
Depth stop rod for setting the precise depth of cut
Pre select speed via regulator dial for ultimate control

[Pusser]

Jim

Where exactly are you going wrong with the sliding dovetails? Are you following the instructions exactly or perhaps taking a shortcut!

With any routing you should preferably take a number of shallow cuts rather than a deep cut in one run.

Not when using a dovetail cutter - you might want to remove some wood with a straight cutter first but you cannot take a sieries of shallow cuts.

[Pusser]

The Leigh site does not list your router but all the ryobies take the 702, the 703 or the 706R. They are quite different and you may be able to tell by looking at the photos. otherwise you might could email them for advice. The web page is Leigh Industries - Joining Tradition With Today (http://www.leighjigs.com/ugs.php)

[mat]

On the open sides you certainly can take shallow cuts (sideways not depthways) and in respect to the "groove" you can take shallow cuts with the initial straight section as discussed previously.


Not when using a dovetail cutter - you might want to remove some wood with a straight cutter first but you cannot take a sieries of shallow cuts.

[BrettC]

Thanks for the advice Pusser.

After looking it's still not real clear to me. I've taken a photo of the router base (without screws) and the leigh adaptor chart. I would think that it should be either the the 702, the 703 or the 706R - but can't really tell, then again the hole in the router base is so small that the Bosch adaptor might fit - maybe none of them work :? then again I might be missing something real obvious here...

Think I'll have to email them.

Cheers.

[Pusser]

Good idea I think. Better to get their advice than take a punt.

[rayintheuk]

I expect that you could get a universal router sub-base that would accept the 710 or the 704R easily enough.

Ray

[mat]

Brett

That looks to me to be about the size of the guidebush alone without any adapter. What is the diameter of that hole and is there a small shelf around the edge of the hole?

[BrettC]

Thanks all,

Carbartec have a universal router base plate:
Universal Router Base Plate : CARBA-TEC (http://www.carbatec.com.au/universal-router-base-plate_c19385)

Here's a thought - Does the e-bush fit directly onto this base plate?

Has anyone tried this?

If not I guess the 710 or 704 R on top of the universal base plate would be the go?

Matt, that was my first thought. The router doesn't have a ledge - I did try screwing the e-bush directly in but there was no way to ensure that it was (and stayed) centered.

[mat]

Yes, the ebush should screw directly into this baseplate and be flush with the baseplate.