cutting bevel on a table top

[Trav]

I'm working on a hall table at the moment, and want to add a low angle bevel (ie 15 degrees off horizontal) to the ends of the table top.

The saw only tilts to 45 degrees (obviously) so I presume the only way to do it is to run the table top through vertically. Any ideas on how to best do this? I don't have a tall accessory fence for the saw - perhaps this is a good chance to make one. I would like to avoid it if I can.

Any other ideas?

Trav

[Harry72]

Handplane?

[orraloon]

Yes handplane is the go. Anything done with a machine where the mounting is aquard or sloppy will be rough as guts not to mention dangerous. Mark lines for depth and length and plane to the lines.
It could also be done with a hand held circular saw set at the angle and with the fence set at the depth but depending on the way the table is held secure and the aquardness of control you will have less risk of stuffing it up with the handplane.
Regards
John

[Rookie]

You could also make a cross cut sled with a ramp at 30 degress and run it through with the blade at 45. You would need clamps to hold the table top hard down on the ramp though to stop the tendency for the top to slide into the blade. Lot of work for a couple of ends though. The plane sounds better.

[Wongdai]

Tilt the blade to 75 and turn the sheet over?

[KorDes]

buy a 15 degree router bit, thats assuming you have a router.

[Wongo]

Have seen it done in a lot of books and mags. The only feasible way to do it is using a handpalane.

[meuls69]

i have done a few tables that needed a "shark nose" edge, i always just used a power plane. just like the guys said, make your two lines then plane to them, does not take long at all. Never used to have much trouble with break out, could tape it but:-)

[petersemple]

I would probably look at using a Safe-T-Planer in the drill press with the table tilted to 15 degrees - but I already own the Safe-T-planer.

Peter

[Trav]

thanks everyone. Will get the plane out and give it a go.

If it looks terrible, I'll just say it's art, and it's supposed to look that way...:D

Trav

[zelk]

If using the saw, you would have to be sure that the table top is perfectly flat, otherwise the bevel will vary along the top length.

Handplaning would be the easiest choice or as mentioned a router bit with a lower ballbearing guide, assuming you can get a suitably sized one.

Zelk

[AlexS]

Yes handplane is the go. Anything done with a machine where the mounting is aquard or sloppy will be rough as guts not to mention dangerous. Mark lines for depth and length and plane to the lines.
It could also be done with a hand held circular saw set at the angle and with the fence set at the depth but depending on the way the table is held secure and the aquardness of control you will have less risk of stuffing it up with the handplane.
Regards
John

I've done both, and the hand plane is without doubt the way to go.

[rrich]

Just a thought...

Could a panel raising router bit adlusted for a shallow cut do the job?

[mat]

Trav

You may be able to adapt this concept to add some consistency to your bevels. Perhaps place a spacer on the edge of the table top to adjust the angle of the bevel.

"http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4120827&page=7&view=colla psed&sb=5&o="

[old pete]

Hi Trav.

No need to make a feast of this simple task. Get a good quality planer blade or cross cut blade in your hand held power saw. Make yourself a saw fence to cramp to the job to guide the saw base. Set the angle and go for it. If you want to get technical then score a line with a Stanley knife to set the top and bottom limits of the cut and to which you can clean up to later if necessary with a very sharp low angle hand plane. You should be able to finish the cut straight off the saw starting with 120 grit or even finer.I've done heaps of these over the years with no problem.

I have actually improved my 200mm Makita specifically for this job by adding a sub base made from 8mm ply that extends the aluminum plate base to a dimension of 450 x 150mm. This allows me a good lead in on the fence cramped to the timber before the saw blade engages the job. If you go this route just make sure that the business side of the extended base is VERY parallel with the saw blade.

Naturally you need to do some practice cuts to get the feel for the best tool speed before attacking the fair copy.:roll:.

Old Pete

[Trav]

Hey everyone

Thanks for the advice. I got into it with the hadnplane the other day - it worked out fine. It is a breadboard end to the table, so simple to plane with the grain the whole way. A few mins of vigourous planing and it was done.

Mat - thanks for the link. That's a great idea. I didn't get it until I saw Derek's photos, but it would be a better way to ensure that I got the bevel straight.

Thanks all - will post a photo for posterity soon.

Trav