Bench hook ?

[Sam]

How do you use a bench hook with a japanese hand saw ? Is there a special bench hook to suit the pull action ?

I've read that the blokes would hold the timber in their feet, probably not ideal but if someone can describe the method or provide a pic I guess it's worth a go !

Many thanks.

[silentC]

Hook it over the other side of the bench :)

[Woodwould]

:doh: What a classic! The problem had never occurred to me before (I don't have any Jap saws).

How about making a bench hook with a couple of dowels that engage two bench dog holes?

[Sparhawk]

I've used Woowould's method for a dual action cross cut saw.

What type of cutting are you doing with the Japanese saw? If it is only fine cutting (dowles, dovetails), they don't require much force. You could move the top edge (the one you rest the work against) to the centre of the bench hook. You can then put the hook in your clamp to stop it rocking. (I tired to quickly sketch for you)

[derekcohen]

I have a bench hook with a fence in a central position. One side is for Western saws (pushing) and the other for Japanese saws (pulling).

The key to secure sawing is to clamp the hook in your bench vise.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sam]

I had tried the bench hook on the other side of the bench but as you can imagine, leaning over isnt ideal ! The common idea seems to be secure the hook in either the vice or in a dog hole so I'll try that. Thanks for the responses guys.

[malb]

Another option could be a long bench hook to provide a convenient work position when hang off the opposite edge of the bench.

[ficfac]

Derek and Sparhawk are onto the goods :2tsup:

[JDarvall]

a good tip imo is to wax your jap saws. just rub on candle wax. there generally thinner blades, and when they jam it can damage the blade. light grip and wax

[NeilS]

a good tip imo is to wax your jap saws. just rub on candle wax. there generally thinner blades, and when they jam it can damage the blade. light grip and wax

Jake - I used a beeswax mix (same that I use on my woodturnings) on my Japanese saws to protect them from rust and that probably also helped to lubricate them. More recentlyI obtained a supply of Camellia Oil to protect my various Japanese blades. Wonder if the oil also lubricates the cutting action?

Neil

[Woodjoint]

That's all I've ever used Neil.

[JDarvall]

. Wonder if the oil also lubricates the cutting action?

Neil

probably eh. as long as somethings used I think. I got chunks of wax all about the shop I use for everything. I just use that.

[Christos]

I use your standard bench hook with the Japanese pull saw.

I press down with one hand and using the saw with the other hand.

[Basilg]

Sam

I don't believe the japanese use a bench hook. they generally use the weight of their bodies against the action of the saw or cut down towards the bench so that the force of the saw is pulling the wood onto the bench. A technique I picked up is to rotate the wood as you cut and follow the knife line around the wood, the last few cuts on the face you started on are done gently and the wood parts on the bench leaving a nice clean face. Like any skill it does take a little practice to get it right.

You may find the attached link helpful

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011101048.pdf

[Des.K.]

:whs: (basilg)

Sam

When cutting building posts and other largish framing timbers the carpenters here use their feet to stabilise the timber and provide an opposing force to the pull cut of the saw. As basilg said, rotating the wood, especially for large pieces, is the best (and possibly the only) way to get a nice clean though cut that requires no further work.

If you find that you're struggling for control on a bench when cutting smaller pieces of timber for furniture, you might need to check the sharpness of your saw (my saws yell at me when they're no longer sharp - it really is that obvious) or have a look at your technique. A slightly downward angle can be used to start the cut, but you should have a light grip and allow the saw to do the cutting - there shouldn't be any unnecessary force in the pull stroke. If you cut right-handed, your left hand securing the piece to the rests on the bench should be all that's needed. No one here uses a bench hook for sawing, and I've never seen anyone look as though they need one.

Des

[Basilg]

Sam

I could not recall details of this when I responded previously. There is excellent information in an article by Drew Langnsner on Carl Swensson in "Bench Tools the Best of Fine Woodworking" published by Taunton press ISBN 0-942391-84-5 I don't think it will be available new but you should have no difficulty getting a used copy on line for US$5 or so plus postage. there is lots of other very useful info & it is a book well worth having in your library. Some of the technique is covered in http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/fwnpdf/011185050.pdf

Des you may be interested in looking at Carls profile on http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Community/ArtistProfile.aspx?id=1314 he does very fine work including an Asanoha shoji, & a small folding screen which I liked.

Have fun Sam :D

[Basilg]

Sam

I could not recall details of this when I responded previously. There is excellent information in an article by Drew Langnsner on Carl Swensson in "Bench Tools the Best of Fine Woodworking" published by Taunton press ISBN 0-942391-84-5 I don't think it will be available new but you should have no difficulty getting a used copy on line for US$5 or so plus postage. there is lots of other very useful info & it is a book well worth having in your library. Some of the technique is covered in http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/fwnpdf/011185050.pdf

Des you may be interested in looking at Carls profile on http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Community/ArtistProfile.aspx?id=1314 he does very fine work including an Asanoha shoji, & a small folding screen which I liked.

Have fun Sam :D

[MiLKey]

i use a regular bench hook, i dont even secure it in my vice, but then again im only doing small things with it like dovetails and joinery etc, and my body weight is enough to keep the work in place (holding the job with my left arm lock in a straight position and sawing with my right.

im not the most experienced but the only time i notice the timber moving is when i focus on putting a downward force when i cut rather then focusing on cutting with the full length of my saw blade. hmm this is hard to explain.

if the saw is sharp and you are pulling across the whole blade, it should be like a hot knife through butter and depending on the woods you are using, more often then not they dont offer too much resistance and have little movement.

[dynoforce]

G'day,

You can check out this video, http://popularwoodworking.com/article/Workbench_Workhorse/

Robert Lang's workbench has tool tray running the length of his workbench, in the middle of the top. He demonstrates how he turns his bench hook to secure on the apron of the tool tray when he uses a pull saw.

Cheers

GUNN