The Bleeder 10th March 2009, 12:06 PM Got a flyer in the post the other day and in there was a kit for building a speed control for 240V brush motors upto 10A.
It's on www.jaycar.com.au (http://www.jaycar.com.au) in Monthly flyers March Madness.
I built one of the previous kits for speed control years ago for a mate. AFAIK it's still going.
Maybe worth a look.
zelk 10th March 2009, 12:44 PM Is this possible without affecting the torque, example in the case of a router?
Zelk
zelk 10th March 2009, 12:49 PM Is this possible without affecting the torque, example in the case of a router?
Zelk
Sorry, just realised that this was for DC motors only
The Bleeder 10th March 2009, 12:53 PM Zelk,
No it's for 240v AC brush type motors up to 10A.
Trying to get info from the silicon chip web site. Looks like i'll have to go and buy the mag.
zelk 10th March 2009, 01:00 PM Zelk,
No it's for 240v AC brush type motors up to 10A.
Trying to get info from the silicon chip web site. Looks like i'll have to go and buy the mag.
In that case, is the torque affected on say, a router?
Zelk
The Bleeder 10th March 2009, 01:16 PM Zelk,
The torque will obviously be affected. By how much I don't know. Not enough info on the web site, so it's off to by the mag.
watson 10th March 2009, 02:39 PM G'day Bleeder,
I got the same flyer and ordered a kit straight away.
Its just arrived, and from what I can see (haven't constructed) there will be a distinct difference in speed between when the device is switched to Full, and when the controller is in circuit without any speed control applied, due to the use of diodes prior to the control circuitry.
Torque loss should be minimal, however these controllers don't like working with machines that already have speed control wired in...like some routers and jig saws and drills.
I'll now stand by for incoming from the usual experts.
malb 10th March 2009, 06:59 PM Haven't seen the unit refered to or read the construction article, but it sounds like a typical high power light dimmer style unit to me. As such, the unit should be able to pass a complete sinewave waveform at max speed, so shold not affect max seed significantly.
However when the speed is reduced, the waveform will blanked for increasing portions as the speed is reduced. This creates significant distortion and harmonics in the waveform, and high inrush currents into the motor. As a consequence, the motor can overhead more easily as it can absorb similar power levels with much less airflow for cooling, unless it was designed for use with this style of speed control.
In comparing a fixed speed router plus controller of this type with a true variable speed router, the true VS unit is preferable as they tend to include feedback to maintain the speed with load variations, whereas the addon units don't. There is nothing to maintain torque while reducing speed. Consider a variable speed drill, load it up with a large bit, slow it down to an optimum speed for the drill bit and put it to work, pretty soon you will increase speed at the trigger as the unit gets loaded down. This is the point where they tend to overheat. Better to run with something that can provide the right speed with decent efficiency, either through design or mechanical gearing.
watson 10th March 2009, 07:38 PM Here's my copy drawing of the output waveform from the Silicon Chip article.
also, when switched into circuit the motor speed is reduced to 70 - 80% from full speed.
The article also notes fan cooling speed may be reduced.
Also, the unit works on two kinds of EMF feedback .
The Bleeder 11th March 2009, 07:16 AM Malb,
No its not a high power light dimmer style. If it is based on the previous 5A one then it does have back emf sensing. The original 10A one didn't have back emf sensing but was a bloody good unit. Emailed my mate in the UK to find out if it is still going.
Noel,
Ordered mine so should be with me by the end of the week. Just ordered the Feb Silicon Chip mag as it is in there. Find out more in the mag.
Batpig 22nd March 2009, 04:58 PM Dear Gents,
Looks like I'm first to the Power-Point with this one, so here's a few comments regarding the unit - for the purpose of tempering any excessive expectations...
1) If you (or the staff at Jaycar) are looking for the thing hanging on the wall where the kits usually are, look down at the shelf instead. That's because instead of being packaged in the usual plastic hanging-blister, the things are just shipped with all the componentry inside the unit's aluminium case, which is then just shrink-wrapped in plastic. So don't be put off if they say to you "The computer's showing some in stock, but it must be mistaken because we've looked everywhere and can't find any!", because the whole kit is just sitting somewhere disguised as an aluminium Case...
2) Steve - don't bother buying the relevant issue of the Mag as well as the kit, because a photocopy of the whole Mag article is included with the kit as instructions (and as far as instructions go, they're not very detailed...)
3) Don't use the photocopied Case-Face templates as marking-guides for the various holes and penetrations that need to be made, because the photocopy is of a scale that is not quite 1:1.
4) She's not a terribly easy kit to build; the aluminium for the Case itself must be anodised, and it's quite thickish as well. The shapes of the cutouts for the Input and Output power-leads are a little irregular, and were hard enough to get just right with a Rotary Tool (long live the unkillable $40 Ozito! :2tsup:), let alone if you were doing it all by hand with just a file. Either way, you'll definitely need sharp Drill Bits...
5) The supplied wiring is only in the form of Mains Flex, so if you haven't got any 10A rated individual wiring lying around (or a decent wire-stripper), prepare to be bogged down in some fully-serious manual stripping :(.
6) As well as the wiring, the rest of the supplied hardware in general seemed a little "skin-flint" in nature; I ended up using all of my own screws because the supplied units didn't seem quite appropriate, and they don't even give you "crimp" style lugs for connection to the sockets (they just give you some "heat-shrink" to go over your solder joints to the terminals). They want you to put some rubber Feet on the thing (obviously to allow a Case-mounted transistor on the bottom of the thing to dissipate heat), but they don't actually give you the four cheap little rubber Feet...:cool:
7) There is a transistor-like component that ends up getting surface-mounted on the inside-bottom face of the aluminium Case with heat-sink compound for cooling reasons. Thing is - you wont see how well the thing mates with the bottom of the Case when looking down on it from above. Therefore, after drilling your holes for the main PCB in the bottom of the Case...
(a) Turn the Case upside down
(b) Mount the PCB on its little nylon spacers on the upturned bottom face of the Case
(c) Bend the legs of the transistor to suit the height of the PCB
(d) Drill an accurate fixing-hole for the transistor while its legs are protruding up through the PCB
(e) Secure the transistor to the surface of the upturned Case with a screw
(f) Solder some little locking-blobs of solder onto the legs of the transistor where they come up through the top side of the PCB in order to hold it in position
(g) Unscrew the PCB off the upturned bottom face of the Case
(h) Turn the PCB back over and solder the transistor to it properly
(i) Turn the PCB back over again and screw it again onto the underside of the Case through its little nylon legs, and see whether the transistor is indeed sitting flush on the surface of the Case (some minor bending of the transistor legs may still be required in order to "spring" the unscrewed end of the transistor onto the Case surface - the screwed end will take care of itself when the screw is eventually tightened into place)
Hope that all makes sense...:-
8) Wiring to the Input Socket and Switch are soldered, but these two fittings are eventually pressed into place from the outside. Therefore, allow enough extra length of wiring for the PCB to sit inside the Case while the wiring runs out through the penetrations with enough slack to enable you to complete the soldered joins onto the terminals of the said fittings while they are un-mounted and outside the Case.
9) I tested it on an incandescant lamp last night, and Lo! - the thing actually strobed at low "speed"... And then I tested it on both my Recipro and Circular Saws this morning, and they both "cogged" (ie. ran roughly) at low speed.
10) When testing the unit, I noticed that the running speed of the said tools only appeared to decrease when the Speed Dial was operating down in the lowest one-third of its range (ie. the upper two-thirds of the Speed-Dial seemed ineffectual...)
11) The thing needs a Power Cord of its own to run - namely the style that you plug into the back of a Computer. And guess what?- Despite the $65 price tag, it's not supplied...:(
Photos below...
Best Wishes,
Batpig.
The Bleeder 23rd March 2009, 09:32 AM Batpig,
I hear you. I ordered mine through the 1800 number as my local Jaycar didn't have any. Got it last friday. (took a week to turn up)
Couldn't get the mag anyway and yes the instructions are a bit light on.
In regards of the 'cogging' did you adjust the trim pot to see if it went away. (haven't test mine)
Started the build on Sunday (only free time I got). It's a lot simpler than the one from 1997 that I built even though some of the solder points are really close (eyesight not what it used to be).
I went and bought some crimp terminals for the IEC and switch. This made it a lot easier even though I had to put heatshrink over the IEC terminals as the connectors were bare ends for that size.
I had a larger case that I put mine in and used some solid core copper wire to go from the PCB to a terminal block for the connections to the other components.
They could have suppiled the power cord but I have plenty of those. (Just got to ensure they are 10A rated)
I'll take some pics when it's all finished (before I test it and hope it's not charcoal after that).
watson 23rd March 2009, 11:09 AM Great Report Batpig :2tsup: :2tsup:
dr4g0nfly 24th March 2009, 08:01 AM Hi Folks,
From the wet, cold UK so I don't know the Jaycar company you are all discussing but I've been looking at this item with the same idea.
http://www.quasarelectronics.com/cr0008.htm
Anybody got any ideas if I can use one to drive my 3/4 hp lathe motor without any problems?
Yes, I've noted the 'Contact Us' tab at the top but never had a response to any e-mail I've sent them.
Any technical knowledge dispensated will be gratefully received,
watson 24th March 2009, 08:24 AM G'day Dragonfly,
The controller you linked to is for a universal (Brush type) motor, and I reckon your 3/4 hp motor would be a capacitor start 2 or 4 pole motor and these type of controllers dont work with them.
dr4g0nfly 24th March 2009, 08:40 AM Watson,
Thanks for the swift feedback, I'll check my motor but suspect your right.
Batpig 24th March 2009, 05:50 PM Dear Chaps,
When one of you are able to, could you please measure the installed resistances across the following two Resistors:
1) The 1/2w 1000ohm (ie. the unit at the right end of the little group of three...)
2) The 1/2w 100ohm (ie. the unit at the bottom right corner of the board...)
I ask the question because I'm a little miffed at the lack of speed-change in the upper 2/3 of the main Pot's range. I measured the Resistors before I put them in, and they were all spot-on, but now the two said components are reading lower on the board...
Now the thing is - once installed, the measured resistances of Resistors can be decreased from their rated value by parallel circuitry, so this could be why I'm getting the lower-than-rated resistances. But then again, I might have also "cooked" them during installation...:-. If I can compare my measurements with somebody else's, and there's significant difference, it will most likely be due to such "cooking", and this could then be the cause of the lack of variation in the upper 2/3rds of my main Pot's range...
Many Thanks in advance,
Batpig.
chrisp 24th March 2009, 06:15 PM Batpig,
Top job with the construction :2tsup:
You might like to check the "taper" of the pot. They may have given you a "log" or "antilog" rather than a "linear" pot.
watson 24th March 2009, 06:53 PM :whs: just in case there's a stuff up.
'Tother thing, were the items you tested it on fitted with internal speed controllers??
If so, they are looking for a sine wave to control, not the half-wave, spiky fronted waveform this kit supplies.
Looking at the circuit those two resistors will certainly measure low as they are across gates/resistor networks and the 47nf capacitor.
I'll go up to the shed in the morning and have a measure on mine.
The Bleeder 25th March 2009, 07:21 AM Batpig,
Did a quick measure this morning before I left for work. It measured 530~540 ohms.
I'll have a good look tonight as work has been rather busy. Got home a 1am and left at 6am. Hoping to get off early today.
Batpig 25th March 2009, 10:04 AM Dear Chaps,
You might like to check the "taper" of the pot. They may have given you a "log" or "antilog" rather than a "linear" pot.
Thanks Chris - I just had a look at the parts list, as well as in the Jaycar Catalogue with the part no. from the list, and both sources say Linear...
'Tother thing, were the items you tested it on fitted with internal speed controllers??
As a matter of fact Noel, the Recipro was! (But mind you, the Circular wasn't, and I'm pretty sure that the Pot wasn't doing much up in the top 2/3rds for it either. And same I think for the Bed Lamp...)
Looking at the circuit those two resistors will certainly measure low as they are across gates/resistor networks and the 47nf capacitor.
I'll go up to the shed in the morning and have a measure on mine.
That's of some comfort to hear. When you can get around to measuring them, that would be great...
Did a quick measure this morning before I left for work. It measured 530~540 ohms... ...Hoping to get off early today.
"Oy oy oy...:no:" Not quite low enough, Steve... I might have cooked something by the looks of it. Please have another measure of both Resistors when you can. I'll type up my own readings when I've heard from Noel.
Best Wishes,
Batpig.
watson 25th March 2009, 12:11 PM Back down for lunch.
The 1k resistor measures 510 ohms, and the 100ohm measures 100 ohm.
Can you "lift" the end of the 1K nearest the SCR and measure again??
bobsreturn2003 25th March 2009, 02:13 PM built a dick smith kit years ago , works well and used on drills and sanders 10 amp max , seems to have torque at low revs ! and remember i had some hassel with the instructions ,as usual . but overall a great thing , cheers bob
Batpig 26th March 2009, 08:44 AM Dear Noel,
The 1k resistor measures 510 ohms, and the 100ohm measures 100 ohm.
You and Steve are close enough to each other to obviously be in the correct ballpark... Well, I'm measuring just 136 across the 1k resistor, and 92 across the 100 (photos below). You can understand why I'm a bit pessimistic...:-
Can you "lift" the end of the 1K nearest the SCR and measure again??
Yes, I guess I could - I should be able to get the board up because it appears that the Heatsink Compound under the Transistor may not be the "setting" type (or it may not yet have copped enough heat to set yet...)
Noel - when you are able to, might you hook something into yours and just see how much speed change you end up getting out of the upper 2/3rds of the main Pot's range? Later on today I will take some measurements of the Pot's resistance at low, high, and a few points in-between (I have to mow some lawns first...)
Many Thanks,
Batpig.
watson 26th March 2009, 09:14 AM Noel - when you are able to, might you hook something into yours and just see how much speed change you end up getting out of the upper 2/3rds of the main Pot's range? Later on today I will take some measurements of the Pot's resistance at low, high, and a few points in-between (I have to mow some lawns first...)
Many Thanks,
Batpig.
This morning's play:
Sewing machine type motor.
Switch in full speed position.......All OK
Remove power
Switch In Control Position....Speed control at Maximum
Apply power.......motor speed has dropped .
Turning Speed control down.
No detectable speed change in the top 1/3 of the Pot's Range (by ear only)
Cogging started with about 1/3 of pot's range still to go.
Adjusted VR2
Still cogging in the same position.
Switched to full power (forgot to turn power off)
Little puff of smoke from the motor , but still rattling around ok.
Hope that helps
The Bleeder 26th March 2009, 10:07 AM Batpig,
Did the measurements again. This time with a bit mor care....here goes.
Across the 1K is 135 ohms
Across the 100 ohm is 92 ohms
Across the 1K - 100 oms parrallel is 53 oms.
This was done with every thing in situ (no power on though)
Hope that clears everything up.
Now for the good news ... mine is the same as yours .. no change in speed in the top 1/3 of pot rotation. Took a bit of stuffing around (assemble disassemble) to stop the router cogging.
Since this is only going to be used for the router (in the table) I can get safely get the router down to around 1/2 speed (it still has good torque at that).
Oh, the router is a Makita 3612.
So yes I'm happy but still a little disapointed on the overall speed control. The one from November 1997 was a much better kit. Speed control was fantastic but the only drawback is if you needed full power you had to unplug it from the controller and plug it into a power point.
watson 26th March 2009, 12:06 PM I wonder why there's a difference in our figures?
All seems to work OK, with plenty of torque at all settings.
Do you get any change in resistance across the 1k for different positions of the speed control??
:? :?
The Bleeder 26th March 2009, 08:14 PM Noel,
That is something I didn't measure (Had the pot on max). I'll do some others with the pot on 1/2 and on min.
watson 26th March 2009, 08:33 PM Had a good ol' play this arvo with three different controllers.
The Silicon Chip Beast........a Kemo MO12 ..also bought from Jaycar..........and the stock standard circuit that I wire up on vero board and stick inside plastic boxes anywhere I need a controller.
The Kemo is an encapsulated module with two input wires and two output wires and a pre-wired pot.
Approved for both universal motors and lights, but only 1200VA.
Runs like a dream....good control.....minimal cogging......a really good unit.
The Silicon Chip Kit.
Not really good control.....cogging occurs early in the rotation...not approved for lighting....will handle a goodly amount of current..........plenty of torque at low revs.
The stock standard circuit..........costs bugger all because of bulk purchase of components over a few years........easy for me to build........a bit of delay in the first 1/3 pot rotation........cogging occurs at low revs but lots of torque........current handling (dunno) never burnt one out.
So that was the day that was.
I've attached the stock standard circuit.....not advocating anyone build it.......probably not kosher for RFI..........but my nearest neighbour is over a mile away.
Batpig 26th March 2009, 10:40 PM Dear Guys,
No detectable speed change in the top 1/3 of the Pot's Range (by ear only)
Cogging started with about 1/3 of pot's range still to go.
Yes - same as mine, Noel, on both counts... :?
Switched to full power (forgot to turn power off)
Little puff of smoke from the motor , but still rattling around ok.
Wow! Here to Avoca! :B That's the longest-range Havoc I think I've just about ever wreaked! (sorry Noel...)
Across the 1K is 135 ohms
Across the 100 ohm is 92 ohms...
...Now for the good news ... mine is the same as yours .. no change in speed in the top 1/3 of pot rotation.
Comforting to hear, in a strange sort of way Steve...:- Sort of like knowing that you didn't stuff up - it was a design fault... (same difference at the end of the day...)
So yes I'm happy but still a little disapointed on the overall speed control.
I'd have to say "Same here..." :( (given that the kit was $65 worth, which is nothing to be sneezed at...)
The one from November 1997 was a much better kit. Speed control was fantastic but the only drawback is if you needed full power you had to unplug it from the controller and plug it into a power point.
I could have lived with that for what I wan't to do with it (slow down the Mitre Saw to cut Plaster Cornices...)
Do you get any change in resistance across the 1k for different positions of the speed control??
No - same reading Noel, whether at Minimum or Maximum setting...
The Kemo is an encapsulated module with two input wires and two output wires and a pre-wired pot.
Approved for both universal motors and lights, but only 1200VA.
Runs like a dream....good control.....minimal cogging......a really good unit.
That would have happily run my 1600w Mitre Saw at the sort of speeds I've got in mind (would need bugger-all speed and power to cut Plaster Cornices...) I've just had a look at the Jaycar website, and they seem to have backed away a bit from the Kemo stuff...:( I tried the Mitre Saw out tonight with the Jaycar kit in question, and she's not really a happy camper. I'll have another go tomorrow morning during breakfast...
Best Wishes,
Batpig.
watson 26th March 2009, 11:16 PM Almost looks like time for that Electronics forum that people asked about a while ago.
Batpig 28th March 2009, 12:30 PM Dear Noel,
It looks like I might actually still be able to lay my hands on a Kemo MO12 after all. If you happen to have one of those plug-in, in-line, Power Consumption Monitors, I wonder if you could run the following tests for me:
1) Plug a Circular or Mitre Saw as close to 1600w as you can find into the Monitor, and fire it up and see whether you can get both the peak start-up, and the ongoing at-idle, amperage readings for it.
2) Plug the same Saw into your new Jaycar Kit, turn the Speed Control knob on the Kit right down to its Minimum, make sure the Kit's Switch is in the "Controlled Speed" position, plug the Kit into the Power Consumption Monitor, and then fire the Saw up again, and get the same two types of readings again.
3) If you are at all tempted, don't plug the Saw into the Kemo until you have verified any decrease in the Current Draw as a result of slowing the thing down by using the Power Monitor on the Jaycar Kit first (otherwise you might end up with another "smokey" - this time the Kemo...:-)
If you don't have one of those meters - No Problemmos! :2tsup: I will just start up another thread asking for the same favour...
Many Thanks,
Batpig.
watson 28th March 2009, 03:43 PM Sorry Batpig,
Don't have a power monitor.......if I did I'd probably just worry.
Sounds like a good test though.
Did a real good test on the diac controller today.
Running a drill putting 50mm Teck Screws into 70mm square OBH . Slow speed..plenty of torque....when the last screw was fully home, I kept the drill on. No dirty brown smell.....all I did was hurt my wrists holding the drill.
Tons of fun though.
Batpig 28th March 2009, 09:08 PM Dear Noel,
Don't have a power monitor.......if I did I'd probably just worry.
Well thanks all the same anyhow. I was thinking about starting up another thread in this eventuality, but it's just occurred to me that the probability of someone having a Speed Controller Kit (new or old), multiplied by the probability of someone having a Power Consumption Monitor, comes to a fairly small decimal probability of someone having both...:-. I suppose I could just ask whether someone with a Power Consumption Monitor could measure their Mitre Saw's current draw at full idle speed...
Anyway, I shall press on with the creation of CorniceSawstein whilst continuing to weigh up my options on the Speed-Reduction front...
Best Wishes Noel,
Batpig.
The Bleeder 30th March 2009, 07:48 AM Batpig,
Did some hunting around and found the Silicon Chip mag from Nov 1997.
Yes, you can still get the circuit board for it. Some of the parts may be a littler harder to obtain. (Can't find any in Oz). Any subistution would have to be for higher rated components. Will check the US websites.
Pi55ed off that I didn't make one of these for myself.
Batpig 30th March 2009, 08:42 AM Dear Steve,
Just out of interest, how did the 1997 SC Design perform in the area of "Cogging"? And the Current Handling: 5A if I recall correctly?...
I'm thinking of the Kemo module now; sounds smooth from what Noel has said. There is a fair bit of "Play" in the wind-up of the helical-threaded gears in my Mitre Saw, and Cogging is therefore definitely something that I want to avoid so as to not worsen the situation any further. My only concern would be Current Handling - only about 2.5A Continuous by the looks of it...
Best Wishes,
Batpig.
The Bleeder 30th March 2009, 09:00 AM Batpig,
The 97 one was a full 10A kit. Don't remember that cogging was a problem (did't have much time to test it as it was on its way to the UK) but the speed control kicked in as soon as the pot position was changed.
If you want I can scan/copy the article and send it to you.
Batpig 31st March 2009, 03:41 PM Dear Steve,
Thanks very much for the offer, and the 10A Rating does sound impressive, but hold off for now because I wouldn't have any more luck than you tracking down the required parts (probably most notably the SBS going by the SC article that came with the new Kit...), especially since I don't have a Credit Card! :oo: :wink:.
I just might end up taking the plunge on the Kemo Module, though, once I've finished modifying the Saw. What have I got to lose - probably just a $35 Module if I "cook" the thing...:- (I'll only be cutting in short bursts anyway...)
Best Wishes,
Batpig.
The Bleeder 31st March 2009, 08:48 PM Batpig,
BIL in the UK may be able to get the hard to get parts for me (German suppliers). So I'll get a few sets if he can find them. Spoke to the guys a Silicon Chip and yes they still have the circuit board. If I get all the bits I'll build that one as well.
Batpig 13th April 2009, 05:34 PM Dear Gents,
The Kemo is an encapsulated module with two input wires and two output wires and a pre-wired pot.
Approved for both universal motors and lights, but only 1200VA.
Runs like a dream....good control.....minimal cogging......a really good unit.
I can now verify that Noel is pretty much spot-on with what he says here about the Kemo MO12. I've just finished fitting one in-line along my Mitre Saw's cord, and it's generally running the Saw smoother and quieter than the Jaycar Kit, with less Cogging and greater Speed Variation all the way down to "Full-Stop". They don't show up on the Jaycar website unless you do a search using the Stock Code AA0346, or ring them and quote this Code. Cost was $34.95, but please note the Current limitations that Noel has alluded to - Rated at 600w Continuous, or 1200w Peak.
Best Wishes,
Batpig.
blouis79 13th April 2009, 06:32 PM Batpig,
BIL in the UK may be able to get the hard to get parts for me (German suppliers). So I'll get a few sets if he can find them. Spoke to the guys a Silicon Chip and yes they still have the circuit board. If I get all the bits I'll build that one as well.
A while back, I was reading about etching circuit boards (since I found designs abound more than kits for motor speed controllers and I want one for my slide compound saw of suitable rating). Apparently, it is possible to print on laser printer and iron onto copper and etch. There are proper products that cost several dollars a sheet, but apparently it can be done using magazine pages as an intermediary carrier for the toner - print on magazine coated paper; iron onto copper; wash off paper; etch as usual.
Haven't gotten around to the DIY circuit boards trick quite yet...(other projects beckon)
marker 29th April 2009, 11:13 PM May Silicon Chip has a new kit for a 10 amp full wave speed control that can give full voltage to the motor ,the kit is $100 at Jaycar.
Mark
The Bleeder 30th April 2009, 12:15 PM Mark,
If you are talking about the kit KC5477 from Jaycar then this is the kit we are having problems with.
blouis79 30th April 2009, 12:57 PM Worth checking out this thread for alternatives:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=75255
marker 30th April 2009, 06:59 PM Steve
The new kit is KC5478
Mark
blouis79 30th April 2009, 07:17 PM Steve
The new kit is KC5478
Mark
Can't find that kit on the web site : (
The Bleeder 30th April 2009, 09:59 PM Blouis79,
It's not on the Jaycar website catalogue. Click on the monthly fliers and you will find it there. It's the silicon chip one.
Have to get to the newsagent tomorrow and see if they still have a copy of the april mag. Like to know what this one is based on. Well they all are based on a scr/triac config. Just want to look at how the snubber network works.
Watson, have you seen this one. If you have ...any comments
BTW got the Kemo M012 fired up ...goes well.
watson 30th April 2009, 10:05 PM Watson, have you seen this one. If you have ...any comments
BTW got the Kemo M012 fired up ...goes well.
Trip to the newsagent in the morning. I was so disappointed in the last one that I'll really check this one out first.
The Kemo works fine here too.......
The Bleeder 30th April 2009, 10:09 PM Watson,
Somehow I think you are right ....need that electronics forum and need it now.
watson 30th April 2009, 10:27 PM Working on it
marker 30th April 2009, 11:01 PM The circuit uses a full wave rectifier and then pulse width modulation using a 50 A IGBT. http://au.farnell.com/fairchild-semiconductor/fga25n120antdtu/igbt-npt-to-3pn/dp/1498965?_requestid=136493
Mark
The Bleeder 1st May 2009, 08:02 AM Mark, Watson,
Got the mag and checked it against the Nov 97 issue. Yes it's the same (well it's had an update) as the 97 one. It now has an overcurrent detector.
From the little time I had with the 97 one it behaved more like the Kemo units.
Looks like they sourced another for the IGBT as the one in the 97 mag I could no longer get. (could get all other components and the circuit board but not the IGBT).
So now it is order, wait till it arrives, build, test and hopefully not be dissappointed.
I need this for my router.
Now to find time.
HypnoToad 14th August 2018, 01:30 PM I know this is an old thread but wanted to share this and not start a new one.
I have my dads AEG 500 watt hammer drill in a Record Power drill press, it's one of the older blue ones with the Rohn chuck and still works like new, it's 2 speed and the lower speed is still way too fast for drilling metal or larger wood bits, was drilling some aluminum the other day and the bit was jumping around, for a moment I thought it was set to hammer but it wasn't.
So I thought I would try one of these 2000 watt Adjustable Motor Speed Controllers from Ebay:
440633
I mounted it in a plastic case from Jaycar and used one of those short extension cords with the molded plug and socket, simply cut the extension cord cable and fixed the plug end to the inputs and the socket end to the outputs and joined the earths together.
I wouldn't use it for anything large like my 1650 watt router, but for the drill it's great and since the drill has gears even though I can slow the drill down to a couple of hundred rpm's the motor is still going fast enough to keep it cool. The whole project cost me less than $15.00.
BobL 14th August 2018, 03:41 PM I mounted it in a plastic case from Jaycar and used one of those short extension cords with the molded plug and socket, simply cut the extension cord cable and fixed the plug end to the inputs and the socket end to the outputs and joined the earths together.
A drill press situation is probably OK because the typical work pattern consists of short time events but on machinery where long stints of work might take place a plastic box would not allow sufficient heat to escape from the heat sink and your want to provide some, maybe even forced, ventilation. These things are basically just oversize light dimmers and I have lost count how many over stressed burnt out light dimmers I have replaced for various folks. The power ratings for these types of controllers are highly optimistic and to be safe I would halve the ebay quoted values.
HypnoToad 14th August 2018, 06:28 PM A drill press situation is probably OK because the typical work pattern consists of short time events but on machinery where long stints of work might take place a plastic box would not allow sufficient heat to escape from the heat sink and your want to provide some, maybe even forced, ventilation. These things are basically just oversize light dimmers and I have lost count how many over stressed burnt out light dimmers I have replaced for various folks. The power ratings for these types of controllers are highly optimistic and to be safe I would halve the ebay quoted values.
I agree Bob, the 500 watt drill doesn't draw much current and not being on for long the heat sink on Triac doesn't even get hot. Something I tested before putting it into the case. I notice they have a beefier 4000w one which ironically comes with a 10amp fuse, those Chinese are not the best with maths, the heat sink is much bigger and some have cooling fans, they would definitely have to be mounted in a ventilated enclosure if you wanted to get up to around 2000 watts.
I am surprised how well it works and have drilled a few holes since.
BobL 14th August 2018, 06:42 PM I agree Bob, the 500 watt drill doesn't draw much current and not being on for long the heat sink on Triac doesn't even get hot. Something I tested before putting it into the case. I notice they have a beefier 4000w one which ironically comes with a 10amp fuse, those Chinese are not the best with maths, the heat sink is much bigger and some have cooling fans, they would definitely have to be mounted in a ventilated enclosure if you wanted to get up to around 2000 watts. .
Yeah even the fine print on the ebay site says the larger wattage units should be derated by 50% if used continuously.
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