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View Full Version : Problems producing half blind dovetails - HELP



colind321
13th April 2009, 04:02 PM
I have the following jig and before anyone says why did you buy one of them - purely because I thought it would do the job.:screwy:
http://www.macma.co.nz/dovetail-jig.jpg
Well it does and it doesn't not sure if I have set it up correctly but a little work has to be done to get the joints to fit. Is this due to the depth I am setting the bit too :? am using a 12mm bit and setting it for an 11mm depth cut in 19 mm thick pine stock.

I am also finding the bit supplied is the weak point as firstly the bearing broke after about 6 - 8 joints being cut and the collar that holds the bearing in place works loose and the allen key grub screw will not tighten sufficiently and works loose. Is there a better bit available for this jig? :-

I wish to produce half blind dovetail joints on my DVD/CD Cabinets that I am making so that when the Cabinet is closed no joints are visible. Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to tackle these joints given that on side is vey long the other the length of a DVD cover.

I also have a Triton Router Table that was left to me by my Father who recently passed away (where I get my love of woodworking from) and was wondering if this Router Table could be used for making these types of joints and what jig and bit system would be the most suitable if it can be used for this purpose.

Thanks :2tsup: to anyone who can help me in my quest.

Tex B
13th April 2009, 04:28 PM
I made a lot of half blind dovetails with a jig very much like yours. They will do the job.

Generally, if the joint is too tight, decrease the depth of cut. If the joint is loose, increase the depth of cut. Try it out on some scrap to get the fit right - just make sure the scrap is the same thickness as the workpiece.

Mine used standard dovetail bits with a template guide for the router, so I can't help with the bits.

Good luck.

Tex

colind321
14th April 2009, 09:23 PM
Thanks Tex gives me hope to produce good quality joints in coming weeks. Just a quick question regards the template guide did this come with the jig or did you purchase it seperately. My finger slots are 13 mm wide which I think equates to
17/32 " imperial. Would like to get the template for my Makita Plunge Router as I think this would be better than the bits with the bearing guide others may disagree.

Still trying to perfect the joints in pine stock before my next cabinet in a hardwood. :sos:

poltac
15th April 2009, 12:14 AM
Did a bit of reserch when I was having problems aswell most infomation I found out was that i was using the wrong router guide. It seams that if you have a 1/2 inch template you will need a 7/16 inch guide bush for the router with a 1/2 inch 14 degree 1/4" shank router bit
Found a better quality manual on a American website that explained the setup of the dovetail jig

John

Tex B
15th April 2009, 03:51 PM
Just a quick question regards the template guide did this come with the jig or did you purchase it seperately.

I got the guide separately. I had an old router and took me two or three tries to get the right adapter. With the Makita, it should be easier. Your instructions should say what size template guide you need. Mine was a Porter Cable Omnijig, which used a 5/8" guide. The guide fit in the slots pretty tight, so sounds like you would use a 13mm or 17/32" guide.

poltac is right, if you've got the right bit and template guide they work well. If you don't ...

Tex

Skew ChiDAMN!!
15th April 2009, 04:05 PM
I also have a Triton Router Table that was left to me by my Father who recently passed away (where I get my love of woodworking from) and was wondering if this Router Table could be used for making these types of joints and what jig and bit system would be the most suitable if it can be used for this purpose.

As far as I know, only the Gifkins jig (& clones) will work with a router table and, although it cuts through dovies very nicely, but I think it doesn't do half-blinds.

(Doesn't mention 'em on Gifkin's site, anyway.)

The Bleeder
15th April 2009, 04:09 PM
Colind321,

Yes it will do blind dovetails but the setup is fiddley.

The size of the template should be stamped on it somewhere. Looks like 1/2".

Go to this website. This manual is a lot better.

http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf

Skew ChiDAMN!!
15th April 2009, 04:12 PM
Thanks, I was wondering about that. :2tsup:

brisand
15th April 2009, 07:15 PM
could you please give address for guide

colind321
15th April 2009, 08:20 PM
Brisand

If you send me a PM (personal email) via this site will give you my address I assume you have a guide for my Makita that can be used on this jig? If you have that would be great.

colind321

colind321
16th April 2009, 02:16 PM
Steve

Thanks for the referal to the website and manual having read it quickly greater detail than that given to me by the the Seller who was helpful as the manual that comes with the jig is useless. Again thanks will read in depth as I persue my next Cabinet.

Regards

Colin Downing

brisand
16th April 2009, 04:56 PM
Colin can you post the email address for the manual.
Brian

colind321
16th April 2009, 08:23 PM
Steve
The following is the website and takes straight to the Manual that you can then read and save on your PC.

Go to this website. This manual is a lot better.

http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf (http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf)


Regards

Colin

ron1mar
31st May 2009, 11:57 AM
I have the following jig and before anyone says why did you buy one of them - purely because I thought it would do the job.:screwy:
http://www.macma.co.nz/dovetail-jig.jpg
Well it does and it doesn't not sure if I have set it up correctly but a little work has to be done to get the joints to fit. Is this due to the depth I am setting the bit too :? am using a 12mm bit and setting it for an 11mm depth cut in 19 mm thick pine stock.

I am also finding the bit supplied is the weak point as firstly the bearing broke after about 6 - 8 joints being cut and the collar that holds the bearing in place works loose and the allen key grub screw will not tighten sufficiently and works loose. Is there a better bit available for this jig? :-

I wish to produce half blind dovetail joints on my DVD/CD Cabinets that I am making so that when the Cabinet is closed no joints are visible. Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to tackle these joints given that on side is vey long the other the length of a DVD cover.

I also have a Triton Router Table that was left to me by my Father who recently passed away (where I get my love of woodworking from) and was wondering if this Router Table could be used for making these types of joints and what jig and bit system would be the most suitable if it can be used for this purpose.

Thanks :2tsup: to anyone who can help me in my quest.
I hope you found a solution. Yes I think it is a matter of having the right template. As you rout make sure you push gently from side to side which I'm sure you did unless it is a straight fit with no movement. that may give the extra room needed.

ron1mar
31st May 2009, 12:02 PM
I looked at the photo and thats the same first jig I bought using a 3612b router. Yes I found I had tight joints using that router.

horse123
3rd June 2009, 06:23 PM
so what brand is it then.

ron1mar
3rd June 2009, 11:05 PM
I can't remember the brand. I will look at it tomorrow and I hope it will say something.

Wongdai
3rd June 2009, 11:11 PM
Steve
The following is the website and takes straight to the Manual that you can then read and save on your PC.

Go to this website. This manual is a lot better.

http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf (http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf)



Thanks for that Colin. I have been wrestling with the Chinglish manual I have for so long now, I didn't think I would ever be able to use this jig.

Now there is hope. :2tsup: