Help to extend a rip fence

[gwambygine]

Gidday

I am pretty new to woodworking, I have been making box's for a wee while and have just set up my own workshop. I bought an axminster TS200 table saw and its pretty good for the money (just short of £300 squids) but it has one real drawback. (so far!) The rip fence is abysmally short, it only comes to the central point of blade. I need to extend it as most of the ripping I do is small stuff. At the moment the stock pivots (groan) when I pass mid point.

The fence is aluminium and I have a good piece of mahogny that will do the job till some oak turns up. My question is what type of screw would I use joining wood to aluminium? I realise I will have to countersink it. Perhaps this is a ridiculous question, but however I just don't know. The aluminum is formed. I think that is the right term? So I can't attach a bolt to the back, the screw won't protrude through to the other side. It goes in to the middle of the fence. Realise this is as clear as mud but I hope someone can figure out my meaning. Any help out there?

Cheers

Maxine :B

[joez]

Hi Maxine, any chance of a picture of the fence?

joez

[munruben]

Hi Maxine, I would probably affix the piece of mahogany to the fence with self tapping screws, making sure to countersink them so they dont catch on your workpiece.
For accurate ripping though you may need to clamp the far end of the new fence to the table to prevent it from wandering. Maybe some of the other guys can come up with a better solution.
joez! I think this is the TS we are talking about.

[gwambygine]

Joez, and John,

Of course, pictures.. If only I had a brain...!
attaching..

[derekcohen]

Hi Maxine

There is nothing wrong with the fence. It is designed to extend as far as is necessary.

The fact is that fences should extend only as far as the blade to avoid any pinching and, as a result, kickback. Many approximate this design on their full length fences by setting them todrift slightly away from the blade. It is really the same thing.

I can see why you find it tricky on short stock, however. Clamping a long straight edge to the fence will solve your need. Or look for some steel U tube that you can slip over the top of the existing fence.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[gwambygine]

Hi Derek
Yes agree. Nothing physically wrong with it. It doesn't however serve the purpose I need it for. I could clamp a piece of wood to it, but nearly everything I do on it is small, so to solve the problem for me I want it extended on a permanent basis.

Have been clamping a straight edge to the table top of the saw in the meantime. Works of course. Just time consuming and fiddly. I did phone axminster and they gave me the exact explanation you did, it is the length it is to stop kickback.

Think I will pop into B&Q and see about self tapping screws. Had to do a little research and it seems these might be the way to go.

Thanks for taking the time... Sent you a PM

Regards from Scotland

Maxine

[malb]

Maxine,

I read what others have suggested about the length if the fence, and your continued wish to arrange an extension. Personally, I would not go the self tapping screw screw route as you can only screw into a fairly thin aluminium extrusion and the screws will work loose allowing the aux fence to move during a cut.

I suggest that you consider an adaption of a type of aux fence that is fairly common. This is a high fence that gives additional support to material when it needs to be cut while vertical, i.e for cutting tenons etc.

I have added a quick sketch of the cross section of the unit below. It consist of three sections of material, two faces straddling the existing fence plus a seperator strip. They are normally assembled to be a firm fit over the standard fence, so that they can be placed onto the fence as required and lifted off when not.

For your situation, with the odd shapped extrusion, it might be slightly more difficult to set up, but you have the advantage of having a T slot at the top of the original fence so that you can use a couple of bolts and wingnuts to help secure it, overcoming the effect of the chamfer on the top of the back side of the fence. I would also be inclined to have a base section in the extended length section so that it become a complete box in that region. This will enhance its stability in the longer term.

Units are often made from ply as this has better stability than timber and better wearing ability than MDF etc.

Hope this is usefull.

Mal

[joez]

I'd be using the top "c" channel as per malb, very easy to take off it if you ever need to and leaves your saw in pristine condition..

joez

[gwambygine]

Dear Mal

I think this is a good idea. I have a sheet of eternal ply lying as well.
Will give it a go and post results later.However, don't hold your breath. I'm slow.
Thanks for the information and the time.

Maxine

[malb]

Maxine, go for it in your own sweet time, you couldn't possibly be slower than than me. Have a 200m2 (2000 sq ft) barn with just about every conceivable machine I have ever wanted in it and still haven't got it set up or even got proper power feed to it yet.
I seem to be more of an information junkie than anything else. Might be something to do with working 3 am to 5pm plus 5 days a week.

Mal