Burn marks on end grain

[Tiger]

I like to add decorative burn marks to various spindle turning projects like tool handles with bits of guitar string etc. How would you do the same with end-grain eg spinning tops or the bottom of boxes. I make a groove with the skew chisel as you would normally, is there a special tool or technique to make this work?

[Sprog]

I like to add decorative burn marks How would you do the same with end-grain? I make a groove with the skew chisel as you would normally

I use a piece of Laminex, just snap an edge off to give a nice sharp edge and press it into the groove. Works well.

[Ozartisan]

:whs:

[Tiger]

Thanks Sprog. I have actually tried laminex but found that it took a fair bit of pressure and dug a deeper groove than the one originally made by the skew chisel, the result wasn't all that good.

[joe greiner]

Dental pick: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=49961

Cheers,
Joe

[dr4g0nfly]

Got any Twin and earth cable laying around.

Cut about 2' and strip the insulation from the copper. Make a small toggle for each end and twist lock the copper core onto it (it will break through heat every so often).

Then just lay it in your prepared groove and apply a little pressure, the rotation and friction will do the rest.

[dr4g0nfly]

Opps - please disregard my last - I miss read the thread.

I have seen this done with a pointed piece of wood of the same type as your turning but never tried it myself.

[OGYT]

When I try to burn a line in the bottom of anything, if the piece of laminate wants to cut too deeply before it burns, I turn up the speed, and narrow down the end of the piece of laminate I'm using.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:whs: With regards to the speed, anyway.

I've found the trick (that works for me) is to use a pointy piece of laminate, but not necessarily a "sharp" one, at high speed and only medium pressure.

If it's too sharp, or I apply too much pressure, I start scraping out the char as it's burnt in, so I press harder hoping for it to "start charring" :rolleyes: and, in effect, just make the problem worse.

Of course, the pressure required is different from wood to wood.

[Tiger]

Thanks, fellas, I'll give these suggestions a try.

[jerryc]

I use a piece of baling wire. Each end is wrapped around a cross handle. This enables me to control the depth and amount of burn with safety and accuracy.

Jerry

[jerryc]

Just thought I'd include illustration of wire effect. Wire wrap I use is about 300 mm long which makes it comfortable to hold the handles.

Jerry

[Manuka Jock]

Just thought I'd include illustration of wire effect. Wire wrap I use is about 300 mm long which makes it comfortable to hold the handles.

Jerry

Jerry , what gauge is the wire on this garrote of yours ?

[jerryc]

Sorry Jock,

It's a bit beyond me to work out technical things like wire guage. It's a bailng wire I got from the local hardware store. To be techicalk it was the thicker of the two.

Jerry

[Manuka Jock]

Sorry Jock,

It's a bit beyond me to work out technical things like wire guage. It's a bailng wire I got from the local hardware store. To be techicalk it was the thicker of the two.

Jerry

Cheers mate , round here they use baling twine string .
Dunno if it would work the same :doh: