1/16 Parting Tool

[Woodir49]

Anyone have any information a making a 1/16 Parting Tool ?
Thanks

[nine fingers]

I ground a power hacksaw blade to shape.

[BobL]

I ground a power hacksaw blade to shape.

For small stuff I used a regular hacksaw blade.

[Gil Jones]

Old Rapala fillet knife...
Not very hard steel, so needs regular touching up on the grinder, but works well.

Forgot to mention that I have also used a sliding T bevel as a thin cutoff tool.

[texx]

i made one and a few other tools using " gauge plate " very handy stuff and easy to work with
obtainable from a engineering type metal supply place

[hughie]

This should get you started :2tsup:




http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools-crn-frm

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17945

https://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?familyid=410&productid=124054


YouTube - make you own thin parting tool

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

All I have to add is: if you're going to use it on pieces bigger than pen-blanks or bobbins, make sure you give it a handle you can get both hands on. A "knife-handle" type thing's a wee tad too small.

DAMHIKT. :-

[Paul39]

I use a junk store used high carbon steel knife, blade about 7 inches / 18 cm long with about 5 - 6 inch / 12- 14 cm handle. It is made wedge shaped. I ground off a bit of the sharp part on the bottom so as not to gouge the tool rest. I grind the front back about 75 degrees. It cuts on the top and as it narrows toward the bottom it does not jamb. With the tool rest right up to what I'm parting off, I don't have a problem with control.

If I have a deep cut, I'll start with the parting tool, then switch to a hack saw with whatever blade happens to be in it. Coping saws are not stiff enough and the blade gets jerked out.

If something is between centers I'll cut a bit more than half way through with the parting tool and saw, then turn off the lathe and cut with the saw, rotate a bit by hand, cut more, etc. until I'm through,

Not good to cut all the way through between centers as you will have two chunks of timber and a sharp metal object flying off the lathe.

[dai sensei]

Or you can just buy one here (http://gpwoodturning.sitesuitestores.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_product_details?category_id=1107146794&product_id=1107445183), works a treat. I have trouble making one for that price (putting a value on my time).

[issatree]

Hi Woodir 49,
Find an Industrial Hacksaw Blade. Gently grind the teeth off. This Blade Should be approx. 1 1/4in. wide & 10 - 12 in. long & is HSS. I used 3 thicknesses of Heat Shrink for the handle.
I also Sharpen my P/tool on an angle, so as when you present it to the wood, the point is on the side you wish to keep. In Sharpening you need to have a longgg bevel " V " Point, I use a W/A/Oxide Wheel 120 G.
After Sharpening, I run the 4 corner edges of the Bevel along the Wheel, but not to close to the Point, so as if you accidently twist the tool it wont catch on the inside of the cutting area, causing great havoc. I'm not sure if this helps, but it is what I use in my Shed.
What is your Location, as I'm guessing you are in the US of A.

REGARDS,
ISSATREE.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Jsut as a matter of interest (and it's relevent to this thread):

Does anyone have a preference for any particular type of profile for this type of parting tool? And more importantly: why?

For example, I'd say that type A in the diagram is probably the most common that I've seen, but by the same token because the contact point is "at the top" of the blade while the tool rest support is at the bottom, I believe that this profile is the most prone to nasty catches if it's rolled over slightly in use.

Type B remedies that, but I find it doesn't scavenge out the sawdust properly and one has to lean over the piece to look down if you want to see what you're the edge is doing.

Type E, is IMHO, a bad compromise in that it has both problems, although to lesser extents. Sure, it can be used either way up, but that's not a real advantage, is it?

My preference is C: ...which also works very nicely in scraping mode.

D: is another option of course, but C gives better vision of what's going on. In my opinion, anyway. :p

Actually, I don't grind mine quite like C: instead I cut the long top flat by simply pressing it in on the 8" grinder, so it's a concave curve, whixh seems to help the shavings remove easier.

I also round over the bottom corner of the short flat, to make a sort of distorted "Bowie knife" tip, but te basic profile is the same.

[Tornatus]

G'day Skew

I have one of the 1/16" Hamlet parting tools with the wide blade, which I tend to use as per your option B for visibility reasons.

A while ago, however, I picked up second-hand a Sorby tool with a narrower blade, profiled as in your option C. The edge leading to the cutting tip is fluted, meaning that the cut is actually made by two little "horns". It works beautifully, and gives a high level of control, but my problem lies in how to sharpen it. I have tried to hone the little flute with a fine-edged Arkansas stone meant for carving tools, but the horns are so tiny it's hard for my failing eyes to tell if I'm doing any good, or in fact making it worse! :(

[RETIRED]

G'day Skew

I have one of the 1/16" Hamlet parting tools with the wide blade, which I tend to use as per your option B for visibility reasons.

A while ago, however, I picked up second-hand a Sorby tool with a narrower blade, profiled as in your option C. The edge leading to the cutting tip is fluted, meaning that the cut is actually made by two little "horns". It works beautifully, and gives a high level of control, but my problem lies in how to sharpen it. I have tried to hone the little flute with a fine-edged Arkansas stone meant for carving tools, but the horns are so tiny it's hard for my failing eyes to tell if I'm doing any good, or in fact making it worse! :(If you have this one, the flutes are sharpened when you do the bevel.104295

The same on this one, however it soon becomes the same as the first one.104296

[TTIT]

...............
Does anyone have a preference for any particular type of profile for this type of parting tool? And more importantly: why?

................

My preference is C: ...which also works very nicely in scraping mode.

.......................I wasn't going to bother commenting on this thread until you showed just how many variables are possible Skew. Mine is a industrial type hacksaw blade I shaped like your 'C' option . . . . . . . . but I have no idea why :shrug: I think it just seemed to make sense at the time to have the cutting edge below the centreline for stability. :shrug: I haven't bothered rounding any edges yet as I haven't had any trouble in the 5 or 6 years I've been using it but it's worth a thought.

[issatree]

Hi Skew ChiDAMN,
The different designs of the P/Tool has thrown the cat amongst the pigeons. To my mind I have mainly seen Type E, as most Turners in my Area use that E Shape. I certainly like it the best but with much longer bevels. Of course, it's the one that suits you the best. I'm not to keen on the shop made one on the 5min.video, as I think the P/Tool is to Short + you have no bevel to rub on the wood.
If you ever watch Richard Raffan, Parting the lid section from the main body of the box, he cuts with a small P/Tool, but he WOBBLES it when inside the 1st.cut, so it is wider inside & wont grab the wood.

REGARDS,
ISSATREE.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Mine is a industrial type hacksaw blade I shaped like your 'C' option . . . . . . . . but I have no idea why :shrug:

I got the idea for mine from a commercial one with the tapered steel & milled edge. (As referenced in 's post.)

Would love to mill the edge, but that's beyond my skills. :)


If you ever watch Richard Raffan, Parting the lid section from the main body of the box, he cuts with a small P/Tool, but he WOBBLES it when inside the 1st.cut, so it is wider inside & wont grab the wood.

Yes, when I make a plunge cut I always make it one-and-a-half to two tool widths wide, for exactly that reason.

If you use his "wobble" method instead, then profile types B, D - and E, if it has short bevels - have a higher risk factor, as the top "point" can catch in the blank.

[thefixer]

Type "C" works for me. Again, dunno why, it just feels comfortable and holds the edge well. I made mine from an old hand plane blade. A little thicker than 1/8" but very strong and is tool steel. I did stick it into a decent handle though. I like to have the upper hand when it comes to leverage

Cheers
Shorty

[Tornatus]

If you have this one, the flutes are sharpened when you do the bevel.104295

The same on this one, however it soon becomes the same as the first one.104296

Thanks, - only trouble is, I can't open your photos. There doesn't seem to be a link there.

Nevertheless, I understand when you say that sharpening the bevel will sharpen the "horns" - it's so bleeding obvious that of course I didn't think of it myself .... :doh:

[Tornatus]

NOW there are links, in the quote - but the system won't let me open them, even though I'm logged on .......:? Que????????

[STAR]

.

[NeilS]

I'm a C on thinner parting blades.

Have also 'milled' a mini flute in bottom edge with diamond bit in dremel type rotary tool (it only needs to be maintained just at and behind the cutting tip) but eventually gave it up as not being worth the extra effort.

Neil

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I've thought about milling an edge, but only fleetingly.

For me that's way too much work and risk of language for too little improvement. :D