Wooden Tea Cup Cover - turning one up.

[HammaHed]

I have a great big tea cup - holds about a liter... made from stainless steel.

However as the worlds leading fly psychologist, in answering the question, "Why do flies do laps of cup and glass rims?" "They do it because they like too".

Since I despise these little airborne #### machines :((, I'd like to make a NICE wooden dust / fly cover to go over the top of the cup to keep the flys off and the dust out.

I drink black tea... and that is steamy and boiling hot and well, that is not an exactly easy situation to get a wood that can cope with the HUGE temperature and humidity changes, without cracking or going grotty .:C

And it's a fair ask of most lacquers to shield the timber from the heat and moisture too.

Does anyone have any solutions to this - as in making wooden soup bowls or wooden cups etc., that they can actually get daily service from for YEARS? What woods to use, the direction of the grain / part of the tree and or what coatings can be applied to them etc.,

Thanks in advance.

[Manuka Jock]

Hamma ,
you could dock the handle off the stainless cup , turn a wooden one that you can drop it into , and then do a lid to fit .
Could even put the stainless handle back on the outside .

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Hot & steamy? Yeah, not good for wood.

I'd just turn several shallow lids from corian, or perspex or...

Several, 'cos I know that given enough time one'll end up down the back of the bench, another will break in two when I fumble a catch, a third will perennially be "somewhere" in a kitchen cupboard - according to SWMBO, but buggered if I can find it, a fourth will... :doh:

[hughie]

Several, 'cos I know that given enough time one'll end up down the back of the bench, another will break in two when I fumble a catch, a third will perennially be "somewhere" in a kitchen cupboard - according to SWMBO, but buggered if I can find it, a fourth will... :doh:
[/QUOTE]


:U..........................:2tsup:

[tea lady]

Wood would prolly just go "woolly" like an old wooden spoon after a while. :shrug: But I guess it won't stop it working. :think: Won't quite match the "look " of stainless steel though. Corian could be a solution.:2tsup:

[Ed Reiss]

Cocobolo, with it's high "oily" content might be a viable candidate for the lid. It holds up well to repeated water exposure.

Best not to try to use an oil finish, just sand down to 2400 grit for a relatively polished surface.

[Rum Pig]

You could do what I have done for years.

Drink rum and coke instead:U:D:;

[lubbing5cherubs]

Hot & steamy? Yeah, not good for wood.

I'd just turn several shallow lids from corian, or perspex or...

Several, 'cos I know that given enough time one'll end up down the back of the bench, another will break in two when I fumble a catch, a third will perennially be "somewhere" in a kitchen cupboard - according to SWMBO, but buggered if I can find it, a fourth will... :doh:

Did you have a mans look skew...Now ducking for cover. Just could not resist that. My hubby has lots of mans look I go and pick it straight up..LOL
sorry Skew just could not resist that was too good to pass up
bye Toni:D

[Manuka Jock]

Here ya go Hamma ,
it keeps dust out , heat in , and has no problem with moisture ,
Plus , its a bloke colour :D

[Sprog]

I'd like to make a NICE wooden dust / fly cover to go over the top of the cup to keep the flys off and the dust out.
I drink black tea... and that is steamy and boiling hot and well, that is not an exactly easy situation to get a wood that can cope with the HUGE temperature and humidity changes, without cracking or going grotty
Does anyone have any solutions to this - as in making wooden soup bowls or wooden cups etc., that they can actually get daily service from for YEARS? What woods to use, the direction of the grain / part of the tree and or what coatings can be applied to them etc., Thanks in advance.

About four years ago, I turned a new tea pot lid for the one I dropped and broke ( the tea pot was almost brand new so you know who was real popular for breaking the lid . :) It is still going strong and looks like it will do for a few more years yet. :D

I used Jarrah, the face grain was top and bottom so the end grain would not be exposed to too much moisture . From memory I used one of the Bondall (Bondcrete) single pack polyurethane finishes. You need to leave this for about a month for the solvents to disperse. The finish is still quite reasonable.

[HammaHed]

This is what comes up when I searched on "Wooden Bowls".

http://www.pillagedvillage.com/~pillaged/cgi-bin/cart.cgi/II_0465.html

This is a large size soup bowl, suitable for a large portion of soup, stew or other food. This plate is hand carved from one solid piece of a pacific island hardwood known as Acacia wood (or "monkeypod").

Several hours of hand polishing produces a smooth, lustrous finish. Pillaged Village "II_" series woodenware has all been hand carved making each piece unique. Some variation in size and shape is to be expected since they are individually handmade. Several hours of hand polishing produces a smooth, lustrous finish.

Acacia wood is an environmentally friendly hardwood which is grown in the Pacific Islands, and is very popular for its beautiful grain and contrasting walnut brown to light tan colors. Acacia wood items have a naturally high resin content which resists absorption of stains, odors and liquids.

The Pillaged Village purchases our woodenwares from a company which promotes Ecological Foresting and fosters the environmental, social and economic sustainability of their South Pacific Forests.

To clean, hand wash with a mild detergent and air dry. No wood is dishwasher safe! These bowls must not be placed in a dishwasher or soaked in water. With proper care and attention they will last a lifetime and become even more beautiful with age.

With time and use, this bowl may eventually dry out. To preserve the natural finish of the wood, we recommend applying refined mineral oil occasionally. The frequency of application would depend on the amount of use. Vegetable or other types of "food" oil are not recommended due to the concern that they could become rancid over time. The oil will help maintain the vitality of the wood and restore the wood's natural sheen.


http://home.howstuffworks.com/lawn-garden/professional-landscaping/basics/monkey-pod-tree2.htm

The monkeypod tree isn't only beautiful to look at -- it also "gives back" by providing us with everything from shade to folk remedies and even monkeypod furniture. Let's take a look at some of the popular uses for the monkeypod tree. Monkeypod trees are valued for their timber -- a durable hardwood. The wood has a straight grain and a coarse texture that makes it easy to carve an#d less likely to dry out and crack. As monkeypod trees tend to have large trunks, they're also a preferred wood for furniture. Because monkeypod trees grow easily and relatively fast, its wood is considered eco-friendly. In other words, trees harvested for timber can be quickly replaced. Hawaiian monkeypod bowls are also very popular among consumers and tourists -- just do a simple Internet search and you'll find hundreds, if not thousands, of hand-carved wooden bowls for sale. Monkeypod wood is also fibrous enough to make paper.




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albizia_saman



As an invasive species.

http://www.hear.org/Pier/species/samanea_saman.htm

Hmmmm the fine grained Jarrah seems common enough - easy to get and machine up.

[tea lady]

Could try one of the hard ol' aussie desert trees. :shrug:

[Manuka Jock]

ya could use tea tree :p

[HammaHed]

Could try one of the hard ol' aussie desert trees. :shrug:

Anything OLD and HARD at my age is received with the most utter graciousness.

So what timber would you suggest?

[HammaHed]

ya could use tea tree :p

I will get some tea bags and go and plant them - and when they grow into big trees.. I shall harvest them.

Seriously tho.... there is so much seriously brilliant timber....

Must look up some pictures and suppliers and get some.

Flies be damned.

[Manuka Jock]

I will get some tea bags and go and plant them - and when they grow into big trees.. I shall harvest them.


no teabags needed :D

This is NZ "Tea Tree" , Manuka . A very dense , stable, hardwood .
It will stand up to the heat and steam .


Your Aussie TeaTree may be a different story tho :U

[Doog Fries]

I wonder how Bamboo would work. I notice that Asian restaurants use it to steam food. Perhaps you could get you hands on a few pieces of bamboo flooring samples to experiment with.

[NeilS]

Could try one of the hard ol' aussie desert trees. :shrug:

:wss: .... have successfully used western myall for teapot lids.

Neil

[rsser]

Bit of Huon should be fine. Very water resistant. Just leave it for a while to lose its vanilla aroma.

One of my w/t teachers turned mug lids to keep the chips out. Don't think he fussed too much about the timber. Course with a mustache I carry an inbuilt chip filter ;-}