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smidsy
23rd June 2004, 08:05 PM
Hei Guys,
Just picked up a chuck and morse taper for the lathe and the chuck is fairly heavily greased.
How do we find a balance - we need to keep metal tools oiled, but at the same time we don't want grease and oil getting on wood or on our hands when we're handling wood.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Cheers
Smidsy

Baz
23rd June 2004, 08:28 PM
Smidsy when I get a new chuck I give it a good sray with WD40 or equivelant and give it a wipe over then blow out the excess with compressed air. Best to fully close the jaws and blow out the exposed scroll thead and then fully extend the jaws and give it anothe blow out. Works for me.
Cheers
Barry

RETIRED
23rd June 2004, 08:38 PM
Morse tapers should have no grease on them at all. They work by friction and grease defeats this.

With chucks, I dismantle them and wash them in a solvent (normally Kerosine) and lightly reoil and reassemble.

If you go this way make sure you assemble EXACTLY as they were.

Cliff Rogers
23rd June 2004, 09:57 PM
G'day.

I'm trialing spray on Lanoguard on my tools. I got it for about $9 at Supercheap Auto.
So far so good, it's keeping the rust in check & doesn't seem to make it any more or less sticky than WD40 does. I hadn't used my lathe for a couple of weeks & the tailstock was stiff to slide on the bed. I gave it a spray & wipe with Lanoguard & it's fine now.
The WD40 is cheaper in the long run but I'm hoping to avoid oil stains on my timber that I'm working on.

bitingmidge
23rd June 2004, 10:11 PM
I watch all these "oily" threads with great interest, living as we do on salt water, I can't leave anything out for more than a few days before surface rusting is apparent.

I haven't tried Lanogard, but finally bought some Silverglide which so far is the best thing on all exposed bits, but would lubricate a morse taper so don't use it there!

I am going to get around to doing some research into "bluing" steel or using some sort of gun finish eventually..has anyone any info?

Cheers,

P

Cliff Rogers
23rd June 2004, 10:41 PM
.... I am going to get around to doing some research into "bluing" steel or using some sort of gun finish eventually..has anyone any info?

G'day.

I don't know about bluing but there are a couple of Wattyl Killrust products that you might like to have a play with.
There is a waterbased one called Metal Prep that is good on rusty tools.
It has phosphoric(?) acid in it & it kills the rusts & turns it blue/black & leaves a sort of powdery protective coating on the steel. It even takes rust stains out of paint. I like it.
There is another one that is not water based called Rust Eeter. It stinks like lacquer, stains your hands & needs lacquer thinners to clean it up. It also turns the rust blue/black & leaves a plastic coating on the surface. I don't like it.
I use the Metal Prep on anything that has got away from me & then give it a shot of WD40 or Lanoguard after a week or so.
I've used it to restore an old 6" planer I found in a shed at Cooktown & now that it is out of the salt air, I haven't had to treat it with WD40 or Lanaguard. I'll give it a hit with the Lanoguard when I put a new set of blades in it & put it into use.

Ben from Vic.
24th June 2004, 12:25 AM
I read an article in a magazine recently (no idea which one sorry) were a guy tested a bunch of rust prevention products.
He got a steel plate, sectioned it off with masking tape and then applied about six or seven products, things like WD-40, Camilia oil and a bunch of other things, including an old gun barrel (I think it was USA based) then he left it out side in the weather for two weeks (he lives near the water, and gets a fair bit of salty dew).

In the end it all rusted, only the amount varied.
Two things I do remember is that Camilia oil was the worst and the gun barrel didn't fair to well.

Bit like a joke when you forget the punch line. :o Sorry guys.

Maybe someone else saw the article?

Ben.

gatiep
24th June 2004, 01:35 AM
I use Inox with great success. It leaves a thin dry film and it doesn't stain the wood or affect any finishes that I have used.

Smidsy if you bought a drill chuck ( must be as you got an arbor with it ) clean that greasy film off either by wiping or using white spirit. Then spray Inox on it. The grease that is on new tools will just collect dust. Please don't try and dismantle the Jacobs chuck, I'm sure is talking about scroll chucks

RETIRED
24th June 2004, 06:02 PM
Joe, you are quite right, was referring to Scroll chucks.

ptc
24th June 2004, 06:06 PM
just went to town and bought a can of inox.
ptc