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badgaz
29th May 2009, 08:16 PM
I'm in the process of setting up a sharpening station for my chisels.
Having just replaced my grinder with a new Abott and Ashby industrial grinder (my old one is on the other side of the country) I have one question: what's with the clear dust cover over the on-off swith on the new Abott and Ashby's?
The clear plastic, which I guess is supposed to be soft and flexible, is as stiff as a board and makes throwing the switch beneath it next to impossible, if not downright dangerous.:no:
My first impression is to grab a stanley blade and cut the wretched thing away. Has anyone elso found this issue with similar products?
If there's a compelling reason to leave the cover on I'm happy to be educated.:?
On the brighter side I'm having a lot of fun designing and building a couple of jigs to go with the grinder. As ever, this forum has provided a great deal of inspiration. I'll post some pics as soon as it's complete.

All the best
Gazza

Old farmer
29th May 2009, 08:24 PM
badgaz, you have come on at the right time for me because I ahve been thinking of an A and A grinder from Hare and Forbes.

Would you mind teling us which one you chose and, if for sharpening, which wheels, please?

I am sorry, have not seen the grinders yet so cannot help with your query.

funkychicken
29th May 2009, 09:07 PM
You can remove it quite easily. That's what I did on mine

rhancock
29th May 2009, 09:41 PM
Like FC I'll be removing mine, its a pita. Turning it on with gloves on is nearly impossible, so turning it off in a hurry would have to be dangerous.

I"ve blued a couple of tools, so I've just bought a white wheel off the Sandpaper man, free delivery, so only $27 - bargain.

I still need to set up a decent tool rest.

badgaz
29th May 2009, 09:44 PM
Would you mind teling us which one you chose and, if for sharpening, which wheels, please?


Old Farmer

I chose the 6" industrial (green) A&A for two reasons. One: because a local hardware store was selling it much cheaper than another major chain were doing the domestic (grey) model for. Two: because I had one back in Perth and it never let me down. I got that one in about '93/'94 and it was well used then. Hasn't missed a beat and my father (current custodian) will attest to that. Whether these O/S made versions will stand the test of time like the old A&A's remains to be seen. But it's relatively quiet and this one runs true... for under $100.

It has the current grey wheels on it at the moment and you'll get a hundred different opinions on wheels, grits and colours. An 80 grit white Alox wheel seems to be a popular choice for turners.



You can remove it quite easily. That's what I did on mine


funkychicken

Is access to the switch through the front switch plate, or from underneath?

Regards

Gazza

rsser
29th May 2009, 09:56 PM
The switch on my A&A 8" grey model died not too long after it was bought so the powerboard switch is now the control. A quick look suggested that it wasn't going to be field servicible with my skills.

wheelinround
30th May 2009, 11:41 AM
The clear plastic covers are for safety reasons
yes they are APIA

1 so no dust particles can enter and short out the switches

2 so no water can enter yes we do use water around grinders it keeps the tool cool

Ern switch replacement is simple I did my 6" recently bought a new switch through J R Turks electrical supplies. now runs like a dream.

rsser
30th May 2009, 12:08 PM
Thanks for the tip Wheelin.

brisbanefitter
30th May 2009, 02:34 PM
using gloves on a grinder is a bad idea

RETIRED
30th May 2009, 03:22 PM
It is harder if you have no epidermis, dermis or hypodermis left.:D

brisbanefitter
30th May 2009, 05:10 PM
dermis what now?

rsser
30th May 2009, 05:20 PM
Tech term for what stops your blood dripping onto the bed and rusting it.

You can get it mailorder from the US, and there's a forum devoted to it.

Old farmer
30th May 2009, 06:11 PM
badgaz, thanks for your very helpful reply, shall go ahead now confidently.

rsser, that's a good reply, thanks:U.

funkychicken
30th May 2009, 06:51 PM
funkychicken

Is access to the switch through the front switch plate, or from underneath?


Both

badgaz
30th May 2009, 08:41 PM
5 minutes with a phillips head screw driver and a sharp #11 scalpel and the cover is history.:U

I acknowledge the safety aspects with regard to water and particulates, but in the balance of risk, when it's time to turn the grinder off...it's time to turn it off. Fumbling with a difficult barrier, trying to depress the switch with your thumb nail and having the switch stick between off and on is probably more a personal risk than the potential for shorted components.

I cut the cover off.

Thanks for your comments guys. I'm having a lot of fun designing and building my grinding jigs. I hope to share some pics with you soon.

Cheers
Gazza

Sawdust Maker
30th May 2009, 09:04 PM
Some of the experts reckon that you need an 8" to sharpen properly, gives a larger radius on the bevel curve then the 6"