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View Full Version : Extending the Nova DVR XP outrigger?



rsser
26th June 2009, 06:12 PM
With the headstock at 90 degrees and a Titan chuck with Powergrips fitted there's only 11 cm from rest to jaw face.

Frank (Efgee88) encountered this gap problem and made a separate rest stand.

I'm wondering about bolting a length of steel channel to the top or bottom of the slotted arm to use as needed (part no. 1 in the diagram). Looking to get another 10 cm or so.

The arm is slightly tapered but maybe two bolts through the arm slot would do it. Would need to cut a slot in the channel to take the stepped toolpost bottom.

Having the channel mounted underneath the arm would also provide a bit more room for tool overhang at an angle. ATM there's only 30 mm between the top of the rest and the centre.

What does the brains trust think?

efgee88
26th June 2009, 06:36 PM
Ern if it was me, I think I would bolt a thick, flat steel plate onto where the outrigger attaches to the headstock end. The plate would be approx 150mm tall x 200-300mm long x 10-12mm thick. I would then thread some holes into the end of the plate and attach the outrigger to the face of this plate. I would remove the plate/outrigger combo and only attach it when required so that you don't end up with multiple groin injuries everytime you move around the lathe.

Unless you will regularly turn large diameter and deepish vessels this may be a simple solution. As I have not seen the outrigger in person, I don't know whether the casting would stand up to an extension hanging from it as you proposed The weakest point seems to me to be where the arm begins to curve back onto the lathe, but I could be wrong.

If you did want to articulate another section off the banjo as I think you proposed, then I would suggest finding a way of supporting the toolrest post on the floor (aka VL175 outrigger post).

I'll be most interested to see what you come up with in the end.

Cheers,

FrankG

rsser
26th June 2009, 06:58 PM
Yeah, that could work. Thanks. Nice diag too.

It would obviate messing around with bolts to change the extension. And the angled bracket is a pretty solid casting.

DJ’s Timber
26th June 2009, 08:58 PM
Franks idea sound very doable, what are the spacing on the bolt holes, height wise Ern?

Got some thick bar here that would be ideal for that, have 2 different thicknesses in 3" bar, from memory they are in 1/2" and 3/4" thickness and if the 3" isn't high enough I can weld two together and re-cut to get it to what you need.

And it wouldn't also hurt to weld a gusset or stiffener plate on as well.

Harry72
27th June 2009, 12:46 AM
the angled bracket is a pretty solid casting.

Oh yeah its solid... dont drop it on yer toes DAMHIKT:((

efgee88
27th June 2009, 12:12 PM
DJ,
I was at work when I posted my reply but since then I have looked at the DVR and there are 2 holes (horizontal) not four on the machined face and 3 inches would be heaps. I am at work again now, but I'm pretty sure the vertical height of the machined face is less than 3 inches.

A mod to the original idea would be to mill a slot in the bar instead of 2 holes so that Ern could slide it forward or backward as required, instead of having to remove it altogether. Just need to loosen 2 bolts in that case, and no damage to toes!
Ofcourse, need to make sure the bolts are not threaded where they slide in the milled slot.

Do you have the capacity to mill a slot?

Anything welded to further stiffen the plate would help in my opinion.

Cheers,

FrankG

rsser
27th June 2009, 04:13 PM
That's right. Two mount bolts, centres about 40mm above the base.

hughie
27th June 2009, 04:47 PM
A mod to the original idea would be to mill a slot in the bar instead of 2 holes so that Ern could slide it forward or backward as required, instead of having to remove it altogether. Just need to loosen 2 bolts in that case, and no damage to toes!
Ofcourse, need to make sure the bolts are not threaded where they slide in the milled slot.


Excellent idea! :2tsup: I would also consider a small plate under the heads of the two bolts, So as to clamp the main 12mm plate. This would add strength to 12mm plate slotted area and maximise the locking/clamping of the same plate.

The plate would only have to be around 60-70mm long and the same width and around 8-10mm thick to achiever maxim clamping and stiffening.